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Don
WHY is DC spending money on this when they should be looking at improving what they currently have?
http://www.detnews.com/2002/insiders/0203/06/b01-432278.htm
Does it make sense considering this article?
http://www.chicagotribune.com/business/chi-0203050266mar05.story?coll=chi-business-hed
fastdriver
Two names:
Volkswagen(RR), and BMW(Bentley).
Keeping up with the Jones' don't ya know.
Sorry for the 'handmade' box, though. Never the right size box around when you need one, right? Figured you could use the wipercards -- hey?..why not card the entire lot full of 300m's?!
blonda: was reading about your stock option score.....are you a dabbler in the Black Art of Investing? My S.O. Linda has been quite successful with a little stock called Ariba--perhaps you've heard of them? Last year, she scored $25k with Ariba, also bought eBay and scored on that, and is AGAIN on the Ariba bandwagon. Several major analysts have recently upgraded the stock from a hold to market-outperform with an average target price of $7.75. Linda bought in at $4.51, and is currently ahead about $7k. Would like to see pic of your tip(s)...can you email/post pic?
Doc
Also, sdmike2: whats the head count to date for the Bad Carlsbad Southern Cali-forn-i-ay 300m Rendezvous Meet?
Doc, again..
Are actually chrome plated steel. They're Mig welded to the flanged end of the resonator. To change them and still use the resonator, (to prevent the annoying drone at 1800 - 2k rpm), you'd have to cut the stock ones off and weld or clamp something else on.
FWIW, I plan to replace them with a single 3¼" stainless tube, then add another on the right side with a second resonator. Also plan to modify the mousehole cutout in the fascia to an appropriate profile, similar to a Special.
http://www.southfloridapulleyhq.com/products_ractive_tips.htm#
Saw a newer Porsche Turbo 911 this a.m. that had cool tips -- sorta similar. They probably charge an arm and a leg for them though.
NC300M--There is a product I found at Lowes Home Center that is a silicon spray that dries instantly rather than staying greasy on the sprayed surface. It comes in a tall can and I use it regularly on the seals, tracks, and then wipe the window edges. And always clean and wipe the edges of the glass if you go thru a car wash that has the spray wax cycle. That stuff dries like glue. Also, if the sticking persists go to the dealer for the TSB correction on the window problem.
re: my tips -- still deciding for the duals, but as you can see above I may go with the ractives that mc300m used. Currently I have add-ons from Kragen which are the single straight tips (but if you have a 2001 it has chrome already).
btw - it appears they were able to put in the plug to eliminate the oil leaking with the 2nd try. I still smell it burning after driving the car. It appears they somehow managed to spill the stuff all over the place.
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/toucan_tips01.htm
For the record, chatroom session tonight in the best little 300m website west of Europe, so be there or be  .
to sdmike2: 10 is three more than the First Annual Wall Stadium, etc... had.
[strains of Kung Fu tv series theme song plays here....]
...Remember, grasshopper....a 300m Meet begins with 10 fellow 300m owners.... (music up, and fade out.... go to Chrysler 300R commercial)....
da Doc
If I *DO* take the plunge I'm likely to have several pieces left over. I plan only to cover the black plastic pieces and the window switches. I'll likely make pieces available to this group.
M
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/car/exhaust/lineup.jpg
I'm done. Retaining attorney as we speak. Will let ya know how it ends.
The part numbers I got are for the lamp assemblies (4805914-AA and 4805915-AA) at $364.87 each side. They could not find specific numbers for the ballasts and bulbs. We don't know if those include the whole assembly as wire2 shows in his very detailed pictures.
Anyway, while we were discussing this, one of the technicians walked up and said someone asked their body shop to switch them over to the HIDs. They got the parts in and hooked everything up and it wouldn't work. Said the computer was spitting out codes for bad lamps since something about the resistance was different. They said don't bother to try since electrically they are not compatable.
Otto, wire, can you guys confirm any of this and fill in the missing part numbers? Please?
I looked at the Special they had in the lot. It was black and very nice. I really like that 150mph speedo. I probably shouldn't even think about if that can be retrofitted. Too many calibration issues I assume. I mean if a silly lamp ballast can connect to the car.....
You hit 50mph+, and you just feel yourself shaking up and down if your sitting in the front passenger seat. If driving, you both feel and see the steering wheel vibrating noticably. The queen (300M owner) knows about it but is tired of having stuff fixed so when I tell her, I always get "Don't worry about it." I've tried to tell my 5* dealer like father (he explained the crown in the road to me was what was making the car pull itself quickly to the left!) and he just says, "All you have to do is let some air out of the tires." I don't mean to be rude and he does now a lot about fixing cars and the mechanics of things, but sometimes, he can be a bit thick. The tires are all about 33-34 psi and he thinks that's overflated. But then again, he also thinks the tires on it are good because they're Goodyears (he only ever buys whatever's cheapest, those weird no-name tires). He also says that the car's so quiet and that's why we hear all the rattles! But, that it's noisier than his 69' Malibu on the road. What a nut!
Anyway, good luck triffner! Any idea what you'll be looking at next in terms of a new car?
What I would really like to see is the 3.5L engine with exhaust headers, no convertors, and a free flowing system! I'm sure that would require some serious ECU tuning among other things, but wouldn't that be a gas? (No pun intended).
Good luck. Maybe you should look at their new $100,000 perfect car they're coming out with that is referenced in an article from the Detroit News several messages up that I posted this morning. Wonder if it'll have Goodyears? ;-))
fastdriver
After splitting a gut after reading your post (in dis-belief), I looked at the headlight wiring diagrams for the 2000 LH cars. There are no resistance measuring circuits illustrated in the headlight wiring. It is a simple circuit that is controlled by the body control module. The body control module controls a relay found in the power distribution center (the box labeled "FUSE & RELAY CENTER" located on the driver side of engine compartment. When the relay coil is energized power is routed to the lamps through the relay contacts, relay not energized the contacts are open and no power gets to the lamps. Thats it!!
Also, why didn't you ask the technician for the part numbers. Somebody would have had to pull these parts to give to the tech, possibly in boxes w/part nos.