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The chrysler unit is made by Visteon. It is called NavMate Navigation System. It is not a bad system but not nearly as good as the Alpine or most of the indash systems out there. Plus there are 3CD's for different parts of the country. Which can be OK if you drive in a single CD part of the country. But since a DVD can hold so much more and you put it in and forget about it. The cost differance is going to be about 600+ depending on the monitor you choose with the Alpine system. There are a few others good ones out there too. The Alpine DVD's run about $300 and I may replace mine(3years old) when the new ones come out in Febuary since they have added some major citys in the areas I like to to like Flagstaff and Tucson to name a few. Plus Phoenix has grown so much in the past 3 years.
Do you have any pics of the install 300Michael ? or the Antenna ?
I traded a Acura CL Coupe type S for the 300M...Nice car...But the fit and finish not any better than the 300....
Topcut, regarding the Aztek/Avalanch/Rendezvous, I think you're generalizing a bit much. The Rendezvous is a quite attractive vehicle to my eyes--my neighbor just got one. The Aztek was terrible looking it's true, but GM changed it and it may be better now. The Avalanch is also different from the Aztek, at least to my eyes.
OK, as for my '99 'M, I bought it used at 49K miles in November of '01. Now have 66K and very happy w/it, although the "light show" has developed which I plan to have checked out. I'm pretty sure it's covered under the DC extended warranty I have. This is the first time I've ever bought a used car, and it was a good experience. Ride and handling still tight as a drum.
The only other problem I've had since I bought it was the A/C didn't work when the whether turned warm, but 5* fixed it under xtnd warranty ($50 deductible) and it's been fine since. You might find this funny-- one other thing that wasn't a problem: the previous owner had brought it into the dealer complaining of a "noise in the back" when going around corners (I found the paperwork under the seat). By accident I found a pocketknife that was between the trunk and the seat, and if you took a turn very fast the knife would "wham" against the side and make a noise. So by finding that knife, which was actually a beautiful "Tiffany" knife with about 30 or more attachments, the occasional problem noise was solved and I got a new knife to keep in the glove compartment!
If anyone is still reading, does anyone know how long the battery on the 99s is rated for? Kind of hard to see it down there, but I'm guessing it's rated 48 months or so. I shelled out a Franklin and change for the Chrysler manual, and I don't remember seeing any requirement for a battery change in first 100,000 of scheduled maintenance, so I'm wondering if it might be longer than 48 months. Anything else I should consider changing as it approaches 70K? Have already done tranny fluid and will do the belts shortly. I rotate the tires every 15K, 7 1/2 K the first time. Thx in advance for any input.
However, I am glad you are basically happy with your M......
Surely you are not so naive to think GM is still American made.....:).....The GEO and Trackers and one point I believer were Korean...and if memory serves me right The Malibu was a joint venture between GM and Toyota.....All the so called BIG 3..have production plants out of the USA..and most of the electronics that go into them are from the pacific rim countries...Like they say,,It is a Global economy.....P.S. Ford owns about 40% of Toyo Kogo (sp) the japanese company that builds Mazda
Since yours is a 2002 Special with new linings, best quick solution is to install some brake shields (liners) on the front wheels only. They basicly are teflon-coated aluminum discs mounted between the calipers and the wheels. If you do use them, be sure to follow the installation instructions carefully. (Don't put them on backwards). :^))
They work fine but some dealers like to say that they will cause the brakes to overheat by reducing the airflow. I haven't found that to be the case when I have used shields in the past.
Available at most any good auto parts store; about 40 bucks a pair. Don't bother with the rear since those pads wear considerably less than the front, even for those cars with rear drive.
The Buick Rendezvous is easily one of the best built, most comfortable and reliable cars I have ever owned. I've got 25K miles on mine and love it. Oh yeah, Buick dealers blow away the competition when it comes to courteous and competent service, both in the showroom and at the service department.
I'm still loving "my" '02 Concorde Limited. The stereo sounds much better now that the speakers are broken in. I will continue to tolerate a couple of interior rattles and worn weather stripping (already?!) until my 6000 mile oil change. I ground one of the wheels against a curb last month and the "chrome" held up just fine.
13 city 17 highway mpg, 5678 Lbs curb weight.
300M = 0-60 7.9 sec, 1/4 mile @ 15.8 88.1MPH, 18 city 27 highway mpg, 3567 Lbs curb weight. Lets see, slower, uses more fuel,(to haul around 2111 more pounds)but quieter? Which one would you rather use to carry 4-5 passengers? Does the Sierra Club know about your Mom?
Happy holiday to all!
Silver
Hey, on another thought, what made you trade the CL-S for the 300M? Notice any big differences like power or noise? What options and colors did you get with the M?
The Solara rode better than both of them...had a softer ride, but also more body role on cornering..and not that I corner hard...I prefer the M and CL ride,,,has the best of both worlds..
My M is Steal Blue with Taupe interior..(looks gray to me)..has power sunroof, 6 disk changer, heated seats..Homelink and the sensor stuff..I think it has about every available option they offered...
I am sorry you had so much trouble with your M..Maybe I just bought mine at a time when they were finally getting their act together..But I can honestly say it has so far performed flawlessly for me..The body is nice and snug(rattle and squeak free)..and the fit and finish is as good as the CL
I am now getting the itch for a car with a Nav system in it, but Chryslers except for the new Pacifica, as I understand it will not be available till the 05 model change...Not sure I can wait that long.....The new Infiniti G-35 Coupe looks pretty nice...Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!
If you can afford to piss away thousands of dollars each year in depreciation and sales tax, why don't you step out of the $30K crowd and buy some real iron like the BMW 745i, Lexus LS430, or Mercedes E500?
brake shields to cut down on brake dust? I have read that those shields can lead to overheating rotors which could lead to warping---a little dust is better than warped rotors..get yourself some carbon metallic pads ---autozone sells a good quality pad called Performance Friction---only $35 per set---low dust, low noise , and good performance.
I have also noticed that several body panels have uneven gaps, not only in width, but in height as well (as in: if your clothes drape over the sheetmetal, edges could snag you like a fish hook).
some people also like to change the oil more frequently during the first few hundred miles of ownership. the theory is that when the engine is new, more metal particles wear off of the many parts rubbing together, so by changing the oil more often when the car is new you get rid of those harmful particles.
1. Gas gauge read empty
seats move all the wayt UP to steering wheel
milage read 97,000
flashing lights
door locks going up AND down, etc...
Back to dealer who replaced BCM a second time with BRAND NEW bcm (as opposed to factory re-conditoned?...). Problem seemed to go away, but came back. Next fix was multifunction light switch (auto-on/off, etc..) . THAT seemed to fix it, but noo-o-o-o-o-o-o-0...it reappeared AGAIN. At night, headlights--without key in ignition and doors locked--would flash ON THEIR OWN..(haunted house sounds heard here..)
Took eMily now to DODGE dealer who is bending over backwards to find AND FIX problem. Part rdered for inside dash (another part of the light switch they tell me..). Awaiting delivery of part and installation. Wire2 on this board spoke with some 'people' he works with and a flakey CdS (some kind of sensor on dashboard that senses ambient light can/MAY cause this problem if it sends a WRONG signal to the BCM....whew....good luck and lemme know how YOUR 2000 fare's with this problem. Seems to be a prblem with 01's also....
TO other things....just wanted to stop in to wish all my friends and fellow M'ers here on the edmunds board--and PAT too--a very Merry Christmas. To those of us who celebrate Channukah or Ramadon or another holiday, I wish to you all the PEace and Joy that these holidays bring to us. You know, it never mattered to mewhat color a person's skin is, for if we get cut we all bleed. The important thing herethat I always do is to remember what the real reason for the Christmas holiday. To ALL my old friends here, and the new ones I've yet to make a very Happy Holiday season from the Doc.
Still searching for a job, but I remember that I was downsized, but not down and out. I know next year is going to be better and that I will once again be amongst the employed--and more importantly doing what I love to do....
Take care my friends, and may the peace and joy of the holiday season be with you and your families,
Doc/Glenn/drpixel and family
"My M is a 2002...never get brake dust...wonder what the difference is???/"
Perhaps your M is a standard, not a Special. The latter have different brakes due to their higher speed capabilities, etc.
easyrider300m-
Brake Shields do work fine. They are slotted forward to pull air in from the side of the wheels while keeping dust out. I had two Benz's -- an '83 300SD and an '88 560SEL. Before Shields, both blackened the front wheels and squealed excessively. After Shields, each were driven for well over 125K with no problems regarding heat damage to anything. That brake dust is greasy and cannot just be hosed off; it's a major undertaking to remove it. And it corrodes the wheels.
Also, I thought that since tedd just bought a new car, he wasn't interested yet in removing and experimenting with the pads. I agree that a longer range fix is to get better pads, but that should be a manufacturer problem which CD probably will not fix since the German mind-set is different regarding autos and, particularly, squealing brakes. Just look at any Benz front wheels. And they still squeal.
Benz, now in control at DC, has had a history of retreating from brake squeal problems by going to softer pads; i.e., more brake dust. We'll all be seeing more German influences into these new LX cars now that they've been able to get their fingers into the pie more. Not sure that the future looks that good. With my two Benz's, it cost about $300 for front pads and $800 for both front rotors and pads. That's one of the reasons I no longer drive Benz's any longer.
(Thanks doc -- hang in there. 2002 hasn't been that great of a year for me either, and I'm ready to try on a new one!!)
Fastdriver: Hit you know where on Monday. The place was empty! I found a minimum stakes, no smoking table and doubled my meager allotment in about 45 minutes. And walked away! I must be maturing...
'99 Platinum M continues to be okey-dokey. I've experienced the "light show" a couple of times and fiddling with the lighting rheostat solved it. To this point, at least.
Happy Holidays and here's to a significantly safer, more peaceful, more prosperous and fulfilling 2003.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Happy holidays to you too. Hope the new year brings better and bigger things for you and yours.
Sorry to hear about the ghostly happenings with eMily! Sounds like Christine resurrected! ;-))
laurasdada-
I hear you. Almost stopped today on the way home from RI, but the lousy weather made me think twice. Might take a quick run before the new year. Stay safe.
To all-
Wishing everyone a happy, safe and healthy holiday no matter what religion you are. Let's hope that 2003 puts a bigger dent in terrorism and an end to hate.
fastdriver
beespecial; TireRack is the answer as stated previously. We just got 10" of snow in South Bend and my Yokohama YK420s don't do too well either. Although they are better than the Goodyears that were on originally. I think I need to experiment with tire pressures.
Rick/Geezer300M
Pcoleman: same deal. You got 55,000 miles out of the OEM Goodyears....sounds like a good value to me. But, I admit, my priorities are value, not necessarily max performance (although I seem to be able to outdrive 99.99% of the drivers I run across on a daily basis).
There has been a lot of hysteria about how bad Goodyear tires have been on this car but, to counterbalance that, I've had two sets, 53,000 on the first, 46,000+ on the second and have had absolutely no problems, obviously great mileage and value along with good winter traction. I understand many posters here have different priorities than I but, this has been a great tire judging by my experience.
The Yokos in my opinion are better than the Goodyears. They have a 60k mile warranty and sell at some of the direct tire stores for as little as $112 including balance and mounting. You may be able to have them shipped to you if you dont have a store close by. Just go to www.discounttire.com and search for a store near you. Some stores sell them for as much as $140. But I did see the $112 price on the site at one of the stores. I only paid $85 plus shipping about 3 months ago as they had a special sale. Such a deal!
EasyRider300M