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Being a lawyer, I am a strong proponent of the idea that you should "sue the bastards" if it's the only way to make yourself whole. I have no great affinity for insurance companies and it may turn out to be the right thing to do. My feeling is that you're better off trying to work through your insurance company to have the other guy's insurance fully compensate you. Don't get taken advantage of, but keep in mind that suing the other guy will keep this from getting resolved for a long time, with no guarantee that you'll get everything you're looking for.
Good luck.
im not trying to take them for all they're worth..
im not suing for millions. if i did sue it would be for a around 5k. if i have to..
As to property damage, I personally believe that the value of a fully repaired car that's been hit is less than if it had never been hit, especially for a new car. Assuming you get your car repaired and are offered some reasonable amount for diminution in value ($2K? $4K? talk to a dealer), I'd say take it. Hiring an attorney is either going to cost you 25 - 33% on a contingency basis, or a fair amount on an hourly basis. You won't come out ahead by a lawsuit, assuming that the insurance company gives you an offer that's in the ballpark, even if it's not completely what you think it should be.
Should be interesting to see that when they hit the showrooms.
im getting with chrysler monday to find out a fair figure for the diminution (?) amount.
im only gonna hire an attorny if they refuse to work with me on this....the lawyers fees are unbelieveable.
you've got plenty of pics of the great car she is before all this and that could help.
good luck to you.
Fellas, there are way too many uninsured motorist in this state TN. Yes insurance is required but enforcement is a joke. and no passenger car inspection program here either. which makes an environment with to many deadbeats driving POS cars with no insurance and lots of people in this state unfortunately get screwed when they're victims in an accident. So making sure you get justly compensated is a major deal requiring mucho effort. I'm sure other places around have similar problems but around here it's a big pain to get a fair deal from the Insurance Co's. I understand where phases is coming from.
my cyber $.02 worth
tnsc_300M
Any comments? I am wondering why Chrylser power its lower level model Intrepid and Concorde the same as 300N, so what is the advantage of buying a 300N if a cheaper 5.7HEMI powered Intrepid may beat 3.5L powerwed 300N ? Why cann't Chrysler rebuild its 300 glory by offering only HEMI powered 300N. If you want bargin please go for less powerful Intrepid/Concorde! Strange, seems chrysler don't know how to market their products.
u coming up next weekend is it? wont be the same w/o my car, but we could still get together if u like?
to replace the 4 torx heads that got stripped on my original ones when I/We tried to install my Platinum +4 plugs last weekend. Got 12 new ones, figure I may as well replace em all.
12 bolts for $4.20 (w/o tax)
pn# 6505121-AA @ $.35 ea. ordered 6/27 (wed.) arrived yesterday 6/28.
While there asked about parts for Trans. filter service.
filter pn# 4796730-AB @ $11.75 ea.
gasket pn# 5010884-AA @ $4.95 ea.
ATF+4 Fluid pn# 5013458-AA @ $30.00 gal.
( geez $7.50 qt./lt. that's more than some boozes cost)
Sdmike, please add these to the PN FAQ you're compiling for the club.
Keith
tuned into you.
2. Just got back from another long trip w/my '01M with 2.3K miles on her.
Here goes: going up north averaged 25 mpg w/AC full blast (hey, it was HOT
in the northeast!), 32psi. Coming back home, 26 mpg w/NO AC.
Used 89 octane. Average speed was 65 MPH. But also had to
cruise into a few cities in bumper to bumper. Not bad, eh?
3. Must have seen about 15-20 M's (northeast - NY, CT, MA, RI). Some guys
don't wave back!
-m
thanks for the heads up. Not sure what happened to that link. try this one
http://public.fotki.com/cmc300m/ pictures of my M
Phases
My guy could be wrong, but he claimed that wiring guide that Av provided wasn't accurate.
Did use and capacitors with the install?
Oh, my install is costing $50 plus a $19.95 "power kit" that includes the power harness, connectors, fuse, etc. They said I could come get it in about 3 hours.
-M
It is easier to take the wheels off. Then pry out the 2 press pins on the wheel well, Then remove that rubber gromet, then use a LONG extension with a 10, or 11mm(I don't remember) socket. Be very carfull not to let the nut you take off fall out of the socket. You will not find it again! Then take those 2 LONG bolts out of the headlights, Then carfully pull on the front facia. I don't think you will be able to take the whole headlight assembaly out(I wasn't, & a few other people weren't) The facia should move just enough to get the bulbs out. Good Luck!
Sirharper- I did not need to remove the wheels. Although if you can it will make it easier. Also if you remove all the plastic grommets on the top portion of the fascia you can pull it far enough forward to remove the entire headlight assembly. It is a pain in the gluteous maximus though.
Av- My M is a Y2K...that may be the issue
antique car show at Endicott Estate in Dedham on July 8th----hope some of you local M'ers are going to show up--over 1000 classic and antique cars on display---wear your club shirt so we can find ya---
The lines from the stereo are high level feeds, the fatory amp accepts high leve feeds, that way they can use that stere in cars that don't have the infinity amp and it will power the speaker by itself. (IE Cloud Cars and Minivans with base systems)
Tell them to look at the infinity amp for a feed that turns on and off with the radio/ignition. It's called the remote turn on, and they can tap that and feed it to the remote feed on the Basslink..
Don't worry, no biggie about the auto on and off not working, rare that works correctly ever anyways...
This should help you out
Stang- wouldn't your recommendation cause the Sub to fade out when fading the head unit to front speakers only? I think that is why there are four inputs (two front speaker, two rear)
Easy- use some playdough stick it in the socket. My 5 year old taught me this one!
Phases- As to my previous posts. The Basslink is incredible. And I am sure Sdmike will concur shortly. I think it produces better sound than a 2 15" subs w/punch 150 amp I used to have in my Cutlass. And that took up my whole trunk!! This Basslink is small, small, small. Leaves you with your whole trunk available
Thanks for posting the information.
Silver
the headlights were still dimming a little tiny bit. only on this one song by Tupac, the bass was hard hits. other than that it was good. but definitely get at least a 1 farad cap. thats a lot of power and when bass hits, its gonna need a hella lot to push those subs. the alternator i did mostly for sake of mind, because with radio, heater, lights, etc...i was afraid it would draw too much. but no more ligth dimming after the rebuild.
I mounted the unit behind the rear passenger seat facing backwards. It looks very nice sitting back there, and it didn't seem to beat my son up TOO bad when he was riding back there. Now, you guys are going to laugh, but I just found out today that my entire rear seat folds down. LOL. I thought it was just the driver's side (60%). If I had known that before the install started I might have turned the unit sideways so it didn't block the entire width of the folddown. Roger, something to consider.
Thanks for the information on the wiring. However, the auto on/off clearly had more of an issue than just getting it the right power level. When they had the unit hooked up and turned off the car they noticed that the basslink didn't shut off. They checked their connections and voltages, and then called another one of their shops that had done these to verify they had it hooked up correctly. So they disconnected the speaker wires from the unit. With no voltage the auto-off should turn the unit off. Well, it didn't. They had to disconnect the power totally. Their solution was to connect the remote wire. That didn't fix it either. Finally, they inserted a relay into the system to shut off the power to the unit when there was no signal...just like it should have done automatically.
-M