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As far as re-programming goes, I'm not sure that your vintage has the capability. It may require total replacement.
Shift point...ZM.........FP
CTP-> D3 -> D1.....7-10mph....8-11mph
mine does it at 0-3mph.
What does vintage mean?
Can't they flash the program and put in the latest version?
I have driven Manual cars for 15 years.
This ES is my first(and maybe last Auto).
I just went outside for something, and they parked right next to my car this morning, backed in like I did. It's like seeing both cars I had at the same time. Too funny. :0
I'm looking at:
Nokian NRW's.
I spoke to a service advisor at a local tire shop (Kal-Tire) and he told me that this tire is an "all-weather" tire. Not only is it great in winter conditions (it has the Mountain/Snowflake designation) it performs excellently in dry conditions (H-rated). It comes in the P195/55 R15 that my Pro needs too. He said they have a 100, 000 km warranty (not sure what exactly is warrantied though).
Basically, he told me that I could use the tires all year long (ie. not switching to summers again).
I'm looking on the net for info, but just curious if anybody has any experience with this?
Thanks.
Todd, these are indeed "All Weather" tires. They work great in winter (comparable to snow tires) and are pretty impressive the rest of the year as well. Somewhat noisier than other tires though. Try the Tires forum here at edmunds, or hit epinions.com. I remember coming across them during my tire-hunt last month!
Great prices as well!
Possibly the MS Pro. But I 200% refuse to pay any more than MSRP. I don't care if it is limited production. I'll pass on it and spend the same amount on a WRX wagon. It's a matter of principle - of not feeding the greed thus further encouraging it, probably making it even worse.
Yeah, sure, its a free market and they will ask what the market will bear, and they will probably sell them all even at inflated prices, but that doesn't mean I have to play that game. If everyone refused to play, fair market prices would reflect that and dealers would have to settle for a price that is fair for both parties. Imagine that. Oh well.
I was looking at just winters (ie. Arctic Alpins, Blizzaks, etc.) but the advisor suggested these.
I was going to post over on the tires section here at Edmunds, but the traffic flow here is MUCH higher and I figured I could get more input from here.
I'm probably going to get these anyway, but was just curious if any of my fellow Pro-owners could offer any insight.
I am sure alot of people would pay above MSRP to have one. I, for one, have trouble paying much over dealer invoice for a car. I got my Protege (under the EAA/S-Plan deal) for under invoice. For the VW, it was $600 over, which was not too bad. But never MSRP.
When slowing down to a stop, the speedo needle drops greadually in a continuous motion all the way to 0. It doesn't stumble or stop (even momentarily) around 10mph.
Did that help?
Dinu
205/50-15 and 205/55-15 lead to around 1.8% error (different directions - one is +ve, the other -ve).
Well within speedometer accuracy specs of 5% to 10%, he he!
Go for it, more choices in that size, more comfy/cushy ride. And they'll last 1.75% longer, less revs per mile!
3931 instead of 4000rpm. But that assumes that you cruising with the same speed. But how do you know it?
>>>But there is the potential of rubbing fender walls or suspension parts. <<<
Probably not, the MP3 has even much bigger tires. The later sure has a stiffer suspension, but I don't think the deflection length is shorter (?), please correct me if I'm wrong.
Bruno
the bridgestone s-o3's @205/55/15 are 8.4" and 23.9".
close, but....
the rpm reduction would be small, but over many thousand miles, it adds up.
After changing to a bigger tire, the tachometer will indicate exactly the same number than before providing the driver uses the cruising speed read on the speedometer. The later however is now under read: you go actually faster than what is indicated... watch out the cops.
Yes, the engine will rev a tiny bit slower for a given 'true' (as opposed to 'indicated') speed the car moves at, but it is intangible, and I doubt it'll "add up" in the form of reduced wear on your engine, or tires (realistically!). The fact that your wheel-rotations per rpm, in a given gear, are not factory standard, may be equivalently detrimental to the engine as well! Also, if you're driving in a high-speed zone, and speeding a bit, bear in mind that you will now be speeding a bit more
With all that said, and calculated, just go for it - its a tiny error that won't affect anything enough to damage anything or make you notice!
>>>Then why the hell did people like those you're describing (I hope it's not YOU) buy PROTEGES? They sound like appliance-car owners and should be in Cavaliers and Corollas.<<<
Appliance driver: There are times you want to drive an appliance and times you want to drive a road toy. It doesn't mean you don't like to drive. I have had many 4-speed and 5-speed small cars: 1938 Willis (guess what that became), 1951 Morris Minor, 1949 Plymouth 3-speed, 1960 VW Beetle, 1959 VW Squareback, 1968 VW Beetle, 1971 Toyota Corona, 1974 Audi Fox, 1975 BMW 2002 (became the 3-series),1976 Audi Fox, 1977 Audi Fox, 1981 Mazda GLC, 1986 Honda Accord, and 1994 Civic.
I gave up shifting for myself, in 1997, because I got tired of it. If you can shift so passengers can not tell it's a manual -- fine! But when you play boy racer when carrying passengers don't expect them to appreciate your skills. They won't!
A good driver can make any manual-equiped car feel no different than an AT version.
Look at people today, drivers tooling along with cellphones held to their ears, and what happens when they get to a traffic light and have to shift gears? I kept an eye on a teenage girl in a Civic following too closely behind me, chatting away. I slowed for a light, she shifted hands with the phone and then shifted the gears, NO HANDS on the wheel! What if I had had to make a panic stop? Her conversation would have ended with a BANG!
Cellphones, CDs, tapes, too many buttons on the audio head, and having to shift at the same time!! Where's the FUN in that? Getting to ride in an ambulance?
fowler3
P.S. 1938 Willis (guess what that became) By 1941, the Willis platform became the now famous Jeep of WW II. In 1938, it was a 4-banger, 2-door with a nose much like today's PT Cruiser. Same radius-cornered windows, the floor was plywood, and the speedo was in the center of the dash Echo-style. So what else is new?
It depends on who your passengers are. My friends love riding in my car. That's why the "holy crap!" handles are so sturdy.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
I'll bet the cost of replacement clutches on manual transmissions will (on average) far exceed the cost of fluid changes on automatic transmissions.
I thoroughly enjoy driving my AT Protege, and I believe my driving focus is enhanced by not having to constantly shift gears (just my personal belief).
Meade
At least we know there are not buzzards circling his house!
If the folks at TireRack don't recommend the size change, it may be due to the width of your wheels. My Mazda wheels are 16x6, so I couldn't really go wider than 195 without making the tires a little balloonish. You could compensate for this some by going with a higher speed/load rating than what you have now which would give you a stiffer sidewall, but it would seem to me to potentially change the handling dynamics. I do not think rubbing would be an issue with that small a change. The MP3 and the ES have a narrower track than the LX/DX, so you can't directly compare tire sizes when considering rubbing.
195 or 205 refers to the section width, the widest portion of the tire from sidewall to sidewall. If you look at my tires (Toyo Proxes T1-S), the optimal rim width for a 205/50R15 or 205/55R15 tire is 6.5 inches. However, it will fit on anything from 5.5-7.5 inches, but it won't be as optimal as on a 6.5 inch wide rim. A 195/55R15 tire fits optimally on a 6 inch wide rim in my tires. I believe Mazda mostly puts 15x6 rims on non-ES Proteges. TireRack or your Mazda service center could tell you for sure. When you are considering what tire to buy, check out the specs and make sure it will fit width-wise.
When I worked at Jiffy Lube, it was $80 for an automatic transmission fluid change (100% change). You can't just drain all of the fluid out of an automatic transmission, you need a machine to do that. I can change my fluid in my garage and get all of the fluid out without a machine, and even if I didn't, it would still be about $50 cheaper at Jiffy Lube. Dealer prices would probably be even more expensive. Besides, I've never replaced a clutch in any of my cars, one of which being a Mazda 626 Turbo with 144,000 miles when I sold it. I don't think I'll even still have my Protege when it has that many miles.
15 trouble free months with my P5 so far, except the housing to the moonroof controls has begun to rattle incessantly. The shop can calm the rattle a bit, but Boston roads shake it back into action in no time. Any thoughts, suggestions, similar problems out there? I'm hoping someone knows something my Mazda shop doesn't. Thanks.
Working perhaps? Nonsense!
Dinu
now while ur at it, did u notice at what speed did the AT shift into 1st gear while coming to a stop?
thanks
They leave it clear so they can call it a "moonroof", measning you can see through it.
Inside joke - sorry Dale! It was too easy.
Dinu
Since the 04 Protege's are only about 9-10 months away are there any prelim stats on them?