Have you replaced your brake pads or resurfaced your rotors yet? I know you are at 47K miles, so I was wondering. I had disc/drum in the DX, and had to have my pads replaced at 26K miles in front and rotors resurfaced.
Got my brakes checked on the VW at about 23K miles. 80% left in back, 90% left in front. Or was it the other way around? I don't remember now... But still, I am shocked that much is left.
If the 1.8T has the same size rotors as my VR6 had, then it isn't too surprising. VW had to put enormous brakes on the 1999.5+ Jettas because they are so heavy. It is all of that safety equipment I think. Either that or they made the rear suspension out of lead to give it better balance. (I am sort of joking here, but my Jetta did have large front rotors.)
Didn't you know that VW uses thicker and better sheetmetal than the Japanese makes? The thicker sheetmetal no doubt accounts for the extra 400-500 lbs weight difference between the Jetta and comparible Japanese cars. Japanese automakers use crappy recylcled steel that rusts out in 2 years. Nevermind the fact that many Japanese cars are built here in the USA. At least that's what I was told on a certain comparison forum.
I know VWs are covered for 12 years against corrosion, so the body must be stronger than most competitors' (usually 5 years). Their crash test scores also seem to be better vs. other cars in the same class, considering the VW's design debuted in 1999.
The Jetta rotors are 11" front and 9.13 on the back (solid discs in back, vented on front). By comparison, the Pro's front rotors are 10.2" front, 10.3" rear.
Not that much of a size difference, really. The Jetta 1.8T stopped 1 ft. shorter for Edmunds than the Pro ES did, and the Jetta had the advantage of 17" tires as well.
The warranty doesn't mean anything to me. Kias have a long powertrain warranty, longer than Honda or Toyota. Does that mean that their powertrains are better than Honda and Toyota? Most people don't even keep their cars 12 years, and I doubt the warranty is transferable. Besides, my Dad's 92 Camry is 11 years old and has seen every Minnesota winter in those 11 years. No rust. The only way to redeem the VW corrosion warranty is to have rust HOLES. If properly maintained, most cars won't have rust HOLES in 12 years, even in MN. Surface rust doesn't count for the warranty coverage. One more thing: Body panel thickness doesn't really have much to do with crash tests. It's what's underneath the body panels that really matters.
that reminds me the following story. Winter 1995, I put my bare foot for the first time in the soil of the United States. I get a grant from NASA to design an EM non-destructive device for detecting corrosion of the airplanes. I was supposed to work under the advise of my dear Professor in Minneapolis. We meet at the airport and he droves me in his rusty Volvo and told me: "when you finish the design, we'll try on my car first"! I never forgot this remark. ;-)
"Didn't you know that VW uses thicker and better sheetmetal than the Japanese makes?"
Todd: I think it's just in Vermont out of all of North America that Japanese cars have holes in them That guy is just too funny - the one that wants an 80.000kms Jetta over a Japanese car. HA HA.
Thicker body panels might not make the car safer, but it makes the car feel more upmarket, and avoids that cheap, tinny "clang" when the doors and trunk close.
bluong1 said he has a Phd, reminds me of an old joke, definition of an Expert,that ended with BS Phd. BS (you know what this means) and PHD=piled hip deep.
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I'm just wondering what would be a good price for an LX model brand new. I offered 14 grand for a protege with an MSRP of 16,200 and the dealer took it. I haven't bought the car yet but the price still stands. Is this a good price or can I get even lower? Help me out a bit... This is my first car deal ever.
I'm not so sure that bigger is always better as far as brakes go. When I say bigger, I mean overall diamater. What you really want is more surface area. I've seen alot of cars with discs that have a puny little strip for actual braking surface area. I guess it all depends on the size of the hub and wheel attatchment points, etc. When designing a good braking system, I would try to maximize surface area for obvious reasons. Making discs bigger is probably the easiest way but this adds the the rotational mass which hinders the performance of the car.
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I'm just wondering what would be a good price for an LX model brand new. I offered 14 grand for a protege with an MSRP of 16,200 and the dealer took it. I haven't bought the car yet but the price still stands. Is this a good price or can I get even lower? Help me out a bit... This is my first car deal ever.
I would find out the invoice price, then offer the dealer invoice minus any rebates available. The Protege is a good car, though not as popular as a Honda or Toyota. Great deals can be had, you just have to know how to do it.
Friend of mine had a '85 323 that he just traded in a couple of months ago. His transmission still works, albeit a little rougher when going from P to D and with shifting through the gears but functional nonetheless. Even the engine was OK too. Mazda quality is among the tops in the auto industry. If they did offer 12 year warranties, they would not lose their shirts over it. Problem is FoMoCo would probably not let them have anything close to that, b/c it would extend to joint FoMoCo ventures like the Tribute and possibly the new 2004 compacts (Protege/Focus).
Too bad about the 323, he never washed it. Seemed there was a large rust spot on every body panel. I am sure he could have pushed it to 250K if he had taken better care of it.
No, I have done no maintenance to my brakes (other than having the fluid changed at 30,000 miles). I do tend to let the engine brake the car somewhat (I have a 5-speed after all), so maybe that has contributed to longer wear.
Could have paid close to the same had I not gotten the luxury options I got with my car (turbo, leather/heated seats, traction control, side airbags). And the list goes on and on...
u almost got it right. Actually the vehicle that I am referring to is a Vespa Scooter. It is a rear sidemounted engine and has only 12" tires.
So in case the front brakes are in good working condition and u happen to use them, expect yourself to be spinning in circles with your rear wheel lifted off the ground!!!!
I had a Vespa scooter when I was in the Air Force in Germany, in 1953. It was a deluxe model made for the International Motor Show, the center piece, painted candy apple red with gold pinstripes (hand painted). The seat was tan leather. The spare tire had a chrome insert which was the emergency fuel tank, held 1-litre. More chrome trim on the scooter than standard green models.
I had to wait for the Vespa to make the rounds of all the Vespa dealers before taking delivery. It cost $850.00! Standard Vespas started at $350.00. These days they are $3,500 and up. Check the Vespa web site for current modern models -- beautiful!
Chikoo,you are right about the brakes, it did tend to nose down on hard stops. Not a good vehicle for riding in blizzards, I sold it and got a car, my first 4-speed manual, 1951 Morris Minor, had 27hp, bicycles passed me on hills. Missed the Vespa's 80mpg, sigh.
I still have a photo,if I can find it I will post on that other site.
"VW can cover the dash rattles for 12 years if Mazda can cover the trannies that long." -Vocus
Paul, Mazda fixed/replaced Trudy's transmission in her 2000 PRO-ES's, in one attempt. After re-reading over 65 of your posts, spread over a three month period of time, in the VeeDub Jet topic. I'm still unclear of how many attempts Volkswagen made to fix your South of the Border Jetta. Come on my friend, your little Jet was a rattle trap? They tore it a part several times. Last I heard, you crank the CD player and you just live with click clack thud jingle?
You heard wrong. It did take the shop 4 tries to get it right, but it's fine now.
Also, I would much rather have a dash rattle in the car and have to get it fixed than have a transmission go out on me. You said yourself, at that time, you were thinking about getting rid of the car and getting a Corolla.
sound like in a Matrix or the Forester? It can happen. Sometimes I wish I had gotten a sunroof and alloy wheels on my 01 Pro LX, BUT trading to get them now is too big a question mark. The 2002 or 2003 could be a trouble car. What I have is trouble-free.
Didn't the Jetta stay in the shop for a long period of time just for the rattle. How long/many times did the Pro stay in the shop. I mean doesn't it all boil down to time out of the owner's hands? In the case I think the Pro wins. Just an observation.
Personally I don't get a loaner if I take my PRO in for svc. When I'll be doing that 30.000 mile svc in 2 weeks from now, I actually plan to stay over at the dealer since it's located in au autopark where they have Nissan, Chevy, Pontiac, Saturn and VW and Honda w/in walking distance. So I'll do a test drive of the Sentra - I got this coupon asking me to test drive one by 12/15/02 and I get a free gift. Maybe drive a used Saturn if I see something that tickles my fancy although w/Saturn that will have to be a very cheap way of looking at "fancy"
And of course I plan on dropping by the service bay every 20-30 mins see what they're doing, talk with the mechanic about 2000 LX Touring PROs for next year....
But that's b/c I have time since I'm done with school next Thursday until January!
That thread of discussion gets so old it almost makes the brake discussion interesting! Speaking of brakes, I finally had my front pads changed out at 40K miles. I was actually surprised they lasted that long since I primarily drive in the city. They weren't down to the indicators yet, but they were really close and I had the extra cash so figured I better go ahead and take care of it. Did the 30K service then as well, but I didn't notice the dramatic difference some of you have reported.
Latest Consumer Reports Survey data: Pro -Transmission- "trouble spot" rating for the years 94-00: B,B,B,B,B,A,B (A=best, F=worst). For Jetta (4 cyl): B,B,D,C,B,B,B.
Ok...here's something...I can't get my dang windshield wipers off!! I can get them to slide off the control arm, but I can't get the little clip that holds it to the arm off of the wiper blade!! ARRGGGH!!
Anybody have any ideas? I've got some tin snips ready to cut em off if I have to.
BTW, I've looked for a button or something...there's nothing. I found the old instructions and it looks like you just push the clip part onto the wiper blade and it sits on 2 nubs.
Mine were kinda tight the first time too. Keep working at it. You'll get them off. The cold might be causing them to be a little tighter than normal too.
Man, sure is slow in here this morning. Wonder where everyone's BEEN ...
Comments
Got my brakes checked on the VW at about 23K miles. 80% left in back, 90% left in front. Or was it the other way around? I don't remember now... But still, I am shocked that much is left.
So did they put 4disc on all 02s, since they are all 2.0s? Or just the ES models?
Yaa, daat's a gooood vone!!!
Arnold.
Not that much of a size difference, really. The Jetta 1.8T stopped 1 ft. shorter for Edmunds than the Pro ES did, and the Jetta had the advantage of 17" tires as well.
Todd: I think it's just in Vermont out of all of North America that Japanese cars have holes in them That guy is just too funny - the one that wants an 80.000kms Jetta over a Japanese car. HA HA.
Dinu
bluong1 said he has a Phd, reminds me of an old joke, definition of an Expert,that ended with BS Phd. BS (you know what this means) and PHD=piled hip deep.
Somebody may have to explain this to bluong1.
fowler3
good luck with your car purchase!
Too bad about the 323, he never washed it. Seemed there was a large rust spot on every body panel. I am sure he could have pushed it to 250K if he had taken better care of it.
Meade
Meade
It sucks really, because I wanted a GLX, but they only come with the VR6.
And how long did you have your car?
Actually the vehicle that I am referring to is a Vespa Scooter. It is a rear sidemounted engine and has only 12" tires.
So in case the front brakes are in good working condition and u happen to use them, expect yourself to be spinning in circles with your rear wheel lifted off the ground!!!!
I had to wait for the Vespa to make the rounds of all the Vespa dealers before taking delivery. It cost $850.00! Standard Vespas started at $350.00.
These days they are $3,500 and up. Check the Vespa web site for current modern models -- beautiful!
Chikoo,you are right about the brakes, it did tend to nose down on hard stops. Not a good vehicle for riding in blizzards, I sold it and got a car, my first 4-speed manual, 1951 Morris Minor, had 27hp, bicycles passed me on hills. Missed the Vespa's 80mpg, sigh.
I still have a photo,if I can find it I will post on that other site.
fowler3
Honestly I don't get it.
Protege brakes are powerful!
fowler3
-Vocus
Paul, Mazda fixed/replaced Trudy's transmission in her 2000 PRO-ES's, in one attempt. After re-reading over 65 of your posts, spread over a three month period of time, in the VeeDub Jet topic. I'm still unclear of how many attempts Volkswagen made to fix your South of the Border Jetta. Come on my friend, your little Jet was a rattle trap? They tore it a part several times. Last I heard, you crank the CD player and you just live with click clack thud jingle?
-larry
Also, I would much rather have a dash rattle in the car and have to get it fixed than have a transmission go out on me. You said yourself, at that time, you were thinking about getting rid of the car and getting a Corolla.
fowler3
Just an observation.
THIS
IS
THE
PROTEGE
DISCUSSION
Meade
But then the post count would drop at least 75%.
Meade
And of course I plan on dropping by the service bay every 20-30 mins see what they're doing, talk with the mechanic about 2000 LX Touring PROs for next year....
But that's b/c I have time since I'm done with school next Thursday until January!
Dinu
;-)
Meade
Dinu
If someone is just baiting the fish, then so be it. Doesn't take long to get a bite. LoL
Ok...here's something...I can't get my dang windshield wipers off!! I can get them to slide off the control arm, but I can't get the little clip that holds it to the arm off of the wiper blade!! ARRGGGH!!
Anybody have any ideas? I've got some tin snips ready to cut em off if I have to.
BTW, I've looked for a button or something...there's nothing. I found the old instructions and it looks like you just push the clip part onto the wiper blade and it sits on 2 nubs.
Thanks in advance!
Man, sure is slow in here this morning. Wonder where everyone's BEEN ...
;-)
Meade
Meade