Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I don't think they were playing games with the type of action they have taken. You don't voluntarily offer to buyback cars or offer service and cash as part of a game. I would guess that it was truly a mistake. As far as your canuck Pro HP, I have no idea.
In response to your question, on the Protege 1.5 and 1.8 engines, the valve cover gasket has to be removed in order to inspect the belt. Remove the spark plug wires, making sure to mark where they came from if you are not familiar with this procedure. The whole procedure is BEST done when the engine is COLD, for obvious reasons.
Remove the valve cover hold-down bolts, and carefully remove the valve cover. The belt will be visible on the passenger side of the car. It wil be laced across both cam pulleys.
Using a contrasting colored marker or "white out", make a thin mark across the width of the belt for location purposes, and with the aid of an assistant behind the wheel, quickly and lightly "bump" the starter. Since the spark plug wires are disconnected, there is no chance the engine will start. Observe the condition of the belt as it goes around, looking for cracks in the "cogged" section that rests inside the pulleys. Check one section at a time. Look for oil and antifreeze, and any visible signs of the belt rubbing on any surface. Make sure that the belt does at least one complete revolution around the pulleys (as indicated by the dark marker line coming back up again.) Make as many revolutions as necessary to check the entire belt. One weak area renders the belt useless, and should be changed at that point.
Touch the belt and feel the slack between the 2 cams. The belt should be snug in that area. Excessive slack in this area indicates a worn belt/and/or worn tensioner. Generally 1/2 inch deflection or less is sufficient. Look for frayed edges on both ends of the belt. Further, the internal "teeth" should be pointy and not rounded off on the edges, (which indicates slippage on the teeth of the pulleys. Those teeth also should not look "glazed".
The entire belt compartment area should be clean and DRY as stated before. A small amount of dust inside indicates that no moisture is present. Moisture of any kind is a sign that you have a leak. Investigate, determine the source, and repair any leaks before continuing.
If all of this is fine, inspect your valve cover gasket and replace if necessary. Replace the valve cover, and correctly reinstall the spark plug wires. Do not over torque the bolts. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.
In NO case should you exceed 120,000 miles on the same belt. The risk is too great at that point. The belt will usually be brittle internally by then, and could break at anytime regardless of appearance. I usually change it around 105,000 if it has looked good up to that point, and much less when it is obvious that it needs changing. Factory belts seem to work better and last longer than after-market belts, regardless of who makes it.(Many years of changing belts at Pep Boys has proven this fact out. Many repeat jobs due to inferior belts makes me a firm believer in the factory belt).
Good luck,
GSEREP1
I finally had the opportunity to rent a Protege for over a week. It was an 1.8 LX with P14 tires. The only thing that I really disliked about the car was the road and tire noise. Otherwise, it was a pleasure to drive, although a little more "oomph" would have been nice on occasion. Would the P15 tires on a 2.0 LX, and perhaps from a different manufacturer, noticeably decrease the noise level, or am I asking too much for an entry-level car, even though it is of such high quality?
One reason I'm not interested in the ES is that it uses peformance tires which according to those more knowledgeable than I increases the road/tire noise.
Thanks!
Are you saying $13,700 for base ES 5-sp and moonroof and $14,000 for base ES + auto. trans. + ABS and no moon roof? If so, good luck finding one with ABS and no moon roof. I would like to track one down too. Mazda's offering a $500 rebate and free moon roof on the ES. Not sure if the rebate goes up to $1,000 without a moon roof.
Lou H
We are in Fresno, CA and the local dealer has a problem with Better Business Bureau. So we looked outside of town. But that $1,500 extented warranty was a shock at the nest closest dealer.
We will keep checking.
Thanx
Lou H
hkchan,
A couple of weeks ago, I test drove a silver '01 ES with auto, ABS, and side airbags without a moonroof . This was at Paul Miller Mazda in Lexington, KY. I wanted a moonroof, though, and was thinking about trying to have them "order" it- i.e., try to get one allocated to their next allotment of cars shipped to them from port. However, although they initially said they participated in the S Plan, they tried to tack on both a $349 doc fee as well as a $290 dealer prep fee. Once I found out that the doc fee was prohibited, I said to call me back if they agreed to drop these fees, but I never heard from them again.
Moonroof credit($700) only applies to the 2.0L trim levels with a moonroof. All others get a $1000 rebate instead of the $500.
I did notice that they report the MP3 as having 130HP. Hmmm...Mazda says 140HP. Let's hope that it actually has 140HP.
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/wplg/20010514/lo/400923_1.html
Is the car that powerful? or do you supect that the driver was just too busy singing Zoom Zoom?
BTW, where have the veterans gone? Protegextwo, Speedypt, mdaffron....anybody home?
Also, anyone find the cruise control switch/paddle inconvenient? I find myself sometimes hitting the control accidentally when turning the wheel. Kinda wish sometimes it wasn't there. Too bad I can't retrofit the P5 steering wheel.
For hkchan;
I purchased the car three weeks ago under the "S" plan and received the $500.00 rebate. The moonroof rebate of $700.00 that hollenhorst2 talks about is news to me. Is it correct and when did Mazda introduce this? Thanks.
The new promotion started 5/3/01 or 5/4/01.
Regarding the rebate, I think it only started about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks ago (I bought mine one week ago), so you probably missed out on it. You could call Mazda N.A., though to find out the exact date it started to be sure you aren't entitled to it.
I picked up the car April 30, maybe Mazda will honor the rebate for the moon roof. That would amount to another $700.00 dollars. I believe it is an issue with Mazda, not the dealer.
Please let me know your thoughts on both issues. Thanks.
Yes.
Unusually bumpy? That's subjective, but my reaction was that the "average" person would not like it.
Probably not.
Probably correct.
If it makes you feel better, drive another ES to compare. But if you "hate" the ride, you hate the ride. But I guess you prefer that there's actually something wrong. That way, there's hope.
After I got about 400 miles on it the suspension seemed to soften up a bit, the struts softened up. Over rough pavement you will feel the bumps. On smooth pavement it rides fine. And on expressways and Interstates when you hit patches you don't notice them as much as when going at slower speeds in town. You are over them and gone.
Part is the suspension, part is the short wheelbase, and the stiffer struts. You get use to it. You also learn the streets that have bad pavement and drive to miss most of them. Some streets I travel have a lot of manhole covers,I take the passing lane to avoid them and noticed that other drivers in cars with softer suspension also do that. Everybody hangs left after a certain intersection.
hkchan: I got the heater fixed this morning. The technician who installed the cassette player left a cable disconnected.
vocus: I, too, have that problem with the cruise control stalk...hitting it when I turn the wheel. Put in a request for a “standard” CC on their next Protegé in a letter that accompanied the return of the Mazda survey.
Mazda uses some old technology and its parts to save money. The cruise control stalk idea is old, on the first cars that got cc. So is the D4 cutoff button, Ford’s have had that for years on cars, vans and trucks with AT.
hkcham: “If you think there’s something wrong, then there’s hope.” Good line! LOL
And if the steering wheel jumps up and down, there IS hope, the wheels are out of balance. Have them checked.
fowler3
Thanks again. It is good to get a prospective from another ES driver. What color do you have? I have the seabreeze green.
Thanks again. It is good to get a prospective from another ES driver. What color do you have? I have the seabreeze green.
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/ford_partner.html
for details.
You should be aware, though, that it may be tough to get a loaded ES under the S Plan, as dealers' participation is voluntary, and they are becoming increasingly resistant to selling vehicles under the plan that they would have a hard time replacing .
That price you were quoted, $15,900, is $1,121 under the invoice price of $17,021 for a '01 ES with premium pkg and auto (exactly what I have). I'm thinking that this offer includes the $1,200 in rebates currently in effect for the car. My S plan price was $16,827. Subtract the $1,200 rebate and my price before ttl was $15,627. That's only $273 difference on a car that my guess is they're not gonna let go on the S plan. However, it wouldn't hurt to ask the dealer if they'd sell it that way. Keep in mind it does cost $40 to join the eaa, so that's a net difference of $233. IMO the price you got is pretty fair for a great car! Just don't let 'em gouge you on doc fees and dealer packs. The S plan prohibits them from charging you the doc fees over and above what it costs them to pay to have the car titled in your name and for the tags.
So, old and reliable isn’t always bad. Especially if it is cheaper.
fowler3
http://www.canadiandriver.com/previews/02protege5.htm
Nomi
Will turn 6000 miles tomorrow. Trouble free and still LOVING IT!!
ZOOM ZOOM!!!
I looked on Corksport.com last night for the front bumper/side skirts from the Sport 20. By the time I would get done with it all, it would be like $2400. Never mind now. Don't have all that money laying around.