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http://thestar.com Follow the WEEKLY SECTIONS link, WHEELS link, then click "Souped-up Protegé MP3 angles for musical ride"
Enjoy!
fowler3
I also ordered ugly black steel rims and Michellin Artic Alpin tires for my '00 ES. I took the 14" size as my standard is 15" rims. 436.04 complete with shipping and a set of free radios from Motorola to boot! I took the 195/60-15 size. I personally will be buying the Bridgestone S-03's for spring and I can't wait to give my rims the cleaning of their lives...including a triple wax job! They won't have looked as good since new!!! Save the finish for the really nice summer days...trust me...you'll feel the same when your wheels look like new next summer and everyone else's look like the moon's surface!
I too will be buying wheel covers, Target and Walmart seem to have a good selection. When they're covered with salt and slush, who cares what they look like!
Re. winter tires. I got quoted $720 (now down to $700), installed, for Pirelli Winter Ice 195-55-15 Assymetricos and black steel rims, which are kinda ugly. The dealer said they would change the tires for free lifetime during spring and fall service. I know they make money on maintenance so is this a good deal?
I've only found one user comment on the Pirelli winter tires, which was very positive, but they don't have the advertising like Blizzaks or Alpins so I still wonder how good they are. The winter rubber compound is 100% vs. 55% for the Blizzaks and handling is supposed to be good, too.
PS, yep I'm in Toronto.
Thanks.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
http://www.cardesignnews.com/autoshows/2001/tokyo/highlights/h02-mazda-rx8.html
On wheel covers: if you don't want to buy them, then you could spray-paint the wheels argent (silver) on the outside. If you paint look for Krylon spray cans and put on two coats.
About waxing: I saw a car and truck show on ESPN Saturday and the owners said they use Mother's California Gold, Pure Canauba Wax. No abrasives in it. Has anyone tried this brand?
Those cars and trucks really glowed!
Fowler3
I've been looking at buying a Protege for months now, and am finally ready to take the plunge. But there are a few concerns surrounding *where* I buy my car.
See, I live in L.A., but my job is transferring me back to Washington in three weeks. Thankfully, they'll ship all my furniture et. al., plus they'll also fly me back. However, I'd like to drive back-- take some time off, see the country, stop to see family along the way. To do that I'll need a car. I was waiting to buy a car in DC, but things have fallen into place to make it an option here:
-- If I buy it now, I can register in VA vice CA, saving me that god-awful vehicle licensing tax (VA has one too, but it's a lot less).
-- I still have a VA license (don't ask), so I can buy and get a "driveaway permit" w/o having to switch my license and take the stupid test twice.
-- VA insurance (cheaper than CA by half).
-- The exact model I want (ES, black, fully-loaded manual w/S-plan pricing).
Here are my concerns: I "buy" it now, but because of the driveaway permit (good for only 24 hours in CA, or so I'm told-- anyone use one of these before?), I would have to sign the paperwork the day before I left the state. Which means I'm buying a brand new car and then driving it cross-country the next day. My guess would be this would be bad (understatement) for the break-in period (although I wouldn't go flat-out east-- have to stop at Vegas and the tourist traps along the way), plus potentially even more worrisome, if I have problems with the car I'm now VERY far away from the original dealer.
So, my questions for anyone who can help: is this a good idea to try this with the Pro? If I have trouble along the way, will I be able to get warranty service at other dealers w/o them turning their noses up (not to mention warranty service on the car in the DC Metro area)? Plus, how hard would this be on the car-- three to four thousand miles on the car in a week, brand new? I'd have to get my early oil-change and service along the way-- would I do something like this at a Mazda dealer, or will Jiffy Lube do the trick? I can wait until I get to DC to buy, but I lose out on the trip, Turkey Day with the family, and time off. But if something like this would ruin my car. . .
Help???
Dave
As for the alternate option, write to me at -
tishoo@hotmail.com
(your profile doesn't have your email address, or I'd have written directly to you off the board!)
-ashu
I tinted my taillamps the other day with this spray tint stuff I got. I think they look really neat too, but I messed up the right one a little bit. Oh well, can't be perfect I guess.
With the cold weather, the crack in the windsheild is getting bigger. Guess I will be replacing it in about a month or so if it keeps going like this.
I bought HID bulbs from EBay back in August, and discovered yesterday that one of them is burned out already. I had a shop put them in, so I bet they touched the lens of the bulb, and you aren't suppose to. I emailed the company, so we will see what kind of response I will get from them.
I took a little road trip this past weekend, to Hagerstown, Md. with a friend. I came from Baltimore, so I had to go up a mountain and back down. I was pushing the pedal with just he and I in the car, and light luggage. I looked down and I was going 80! I couldn't believe how much difference in power there is between the DX I used to have (had to keep it floored almost all the way up to get going at the 65mph limit) and the ES I have now. To say I was pleased was an understatement.
PF
Thanks
cp
If I buy a mazda and don't get it locally, I'll be doing the same thing ... should make for a good road trip.
Here's the link:
http://www.mirdrag.com/schedule/import.htm
Don't push it going over mountains, downshift frequently so it won't overheat the engine. Keep an eye on the coolant temperature guage. If the needle goes up, slow down, but do not stop the car. Stopping will make it worse. Pay attention to any hot odors from the engine that may indicate overheating.
Be sure the tires are at the proper preasure before starting out, that's 32psi front and rear. Don't just go by what they are when you leave the dealership.
Try to use the same brand of gas along your route. Check the oil level when you fill up at stations. Carry an extra quart just in case. Also carry extra windshield washer fluid. It may rain a lot along your way and you will need it. Storm systems seem to move west to east. When I was driving from Albuquerque to Virginia on a trip a rain system followed me the whole way, it rained constantly.
Make frequent stops to rest and get refreshments. Stop early for overnight accommodations at about 5:00PM. Leave early the next morning after a good breakfast.
Pre-check Mazda dealer locations along your route and get an oil/filter change at about 2000 miles to be on the safe side. You can have the oil change at a service station, Save the receipt for your records and to show the dealer you will go to in DC.
In the days following WW II, many Virginia and North Carolina dealers had to take delivery of new cars in Washington, DC and drive them home. They had to drive them at no more than 45mph. Those cars had govenors on them to limit the speed for the first 1000 miles even when sold to buyers. Then the device was removed by the dealer.
And old tip for cross-country drivers: Before Interstates, we use to take a map and draw a straight line between the starting point and our destination. Then drove as close to that line as possible using all roads, highways and rural. You get to see the real country that way.
protege_fan: look on your tire sidewalls for the size. It's embossed on all tires. The tire presure is printed on a label inside the driver's door frame.
fowler3
I am selling my 2000 silver Protege ES. It has 19,000 miles, CD, Cassette and all of the standard ES features. (no moonroof) Kelly Bluebook says Retail Value of $14,265 and selling to a private party value of $12, 595 and of course the dreaded trade in (screw ya) of $10, 700 (not going that route) Any idea what I should ask? Somewhere between the retail and private? It's in perfect shape and very fun to zoom zoom in. But we need a bigger car for our family. Thanks
fowler3
Don't forget your galoshes!
Corporate is also the same exact thing as Professional (full), cept for that one register thing . Oh how I love piracy :P!!
http://www.mazda.co.jp/motorshow/english/concept/index.html
This site highlights their new engines:
http://www.mazda.co.jp/motorshow/english/tech/eng.html
I found these links from Ford, of all places.
Let's say my tires are P195/55R15V. What would be the "-1" size (in terms of winter tire "downsizing"). Thanks
PF
CP
Anyways, Fowler3, back to your post. Thanks a lot for your advice. I'm planning two routes (a Northern through CA-AZ-NM-CO-KS-NE-IA-IL, and a Southern through CA-AZ-NM-TX-OK-AR-IL) in case the weather reports look awful. I've been to Colorado once, C-Springs, and I took at trip to the Royal Gorge over the Arkansas. I don't know how mountainous the trip north through AZ-NM-CO is, or how hard it'll be on the new car. I'm planning on spending a pretty long day seeing the sights in Arizona, I figure that should be enough to break in the car before I head through higher land. It's not that breaking in the car is a pain, it's just that there simply aren't many 600-mile routes between L.A. and points east that don't involve either high-speed or mountainous terrain.
A question about breaking in the Protege-- what does the manual say? I read some of the boards on Edmunds dealing with the subject, and there's a lot of gloom and doom. I'm not planning on riding the car hard at all for the first day or two, but I'd like to know what my realistic limits are. Are there other things to look/listen for other than bad odors/overheating? What sort of RPM should I run (My last car was a 98 Golf I had to get rid of, and I don't think I ever ran that over 4000 RPM).
Finally, any tips for driving the manual Pro? Again, I had a 5-spd VW, and the only time I ever drove that in snow I had a real tough time moving out in first. I've heard that you can start out in second, but how does this work in practice? I'm looking to get the most out of my car.
Thanks,
DK
I'm going to go buy my Protege ES this week, and I'd like to know what sorts of things I should look for during the test-drive/walk-around. I won't take delivery for another two weeks (see my earlier posts), so I'll make sure to check everything out again before I drive off the lot. I'd like to do a thorough personal inspection of the vehicle, but I'd like to know from veteran owners what sorts of warning signs there may be that indicate a potential problem (i.e., the Pro's headlights are sometimes foggy, and if they are, that means a 90% chance of failure in six months based on experience).
Again, I'm immediately putting the car through the mother of all roadtrips, so I won't be able to return to the dealer for three days of service if a light doesn't come on at the right time. Murphy's Law says I've got issues. . .
Thanks again,
DK
if you're really picky (and i am), u can get down low and look at your car from the side, for door dings, scratches, paint imperfections, etc. but, since u are going on a huge road trip, not sure how relevant that'd be for u...since u'll probably get your fair share of rock chips on the highways (which reminds me, maybe u should get a bottle of touch up paint too..) i had a buncha scratches (when i got my car in aug 01) on my roof, so i'm just speaking from experience.
hope that helps...and good luck!
'duh'
Just went to North Toronto Mazda this morning. I was told that each Mazda dealer in Canada is responsible for getting their own tires to sell to clients, meaning Mazda Canada does not provide dealers with tires to sell. This obviously means that prices should differ from dealership to dealership across the GTA.
They confirmed the Pirellis (195/55/R15) are $112+tax/tire instead of $187. Rims are $55 each+tax. Installation and balancing was not included in the price, but the parts guy said that it should cost 1hr of labour ($77)to do it.
So basically I'm not sure where to go from here:
1. Should I get the rims and tires combo and pay $220 more or should I just get the tires and mount them on the original rims and keep switching in spring and fall?
2. Should I get the Pirellis ($845+) or Kumhos ($700)?
Also, for the Toronto people, please post the prices you were quoted, tire details, and location/tel #, so we can all make an informed decision.
Thanx, Dinu.
It might be a good idea to test-drive several Pro ES models before deciding on one. Cars vary in their feel and personality. All look the same but have a difference on the road.
In Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado you will be driving at higher altitudes so the engine will feel less powerful. In fact it will be and on the slugish side going up hill. Downshift. Don't press it. Neither will you get your best mileage until you put at least 2000 miles on it.
Your range will be approximately 400 miles in the higher elevations (above 5000 feet) depending on how you drive. Try to fill up, top off, often rather than assuming you can find a gas station when the tank is low. Not as many refueling places on those routes in the West.
maltb: LOL! Okay. Been there, done that.
fowler3
The manual says what we are telling you. "Drive moderately for the first 600 miles. No fast starts and no hard braking. Vary the speed." But in your case it would be wise to extend that to 1000 miles.
So check your maps and set a day's driving that will be easy on the car and still get you to places you want to site see.
fowler3
Pack a sleeping bag, bottled water, and peanutbutter crackers (any food that does not require refrigeration). Carry a heavy jacket and gloves. And a good flashlight. Wal-Mart is now selling those aluminum flashlights that focus, with D-batteries, at a good price. Would be good for all drivers to carry one of those.
And if you tell us your route(s) before leaving, maybe some of us will be near enough to them to provide assistence, if needed.
fowler3
Anyways, again, thanks for the tips!
I carry a set of metric sockets and driver, wheel chocks, jumper kit, flashlight, emergency blankets, bulbs, fuses, gloves, terry cloths, fire extinguisher. I bring oil and water on long trips, just in case.
All of the Hot Import Nights shows are $19-23 to get in and ALWAYS suck. This MIR event will be much better than them. The next big event that I can think of after this is on May 3rd in Carlisle, PA. The entrance fee for that is like $20 per day (its 3 days long).
Car Talk has a Web site at cartalk.cars.com, which presumably somewhere lists all the stations (it's an NPR show) that carry it.
When I first looked for steel rims, Mazda quoted over $100, used ones from insurance salvage $75, and most other places were 45 to 48. At $110 dollars a tire for Nokian Q's, I felt I needed to buy the rims at Walmart and save some money.
I just put studded tires on our 86 camry, but I decided not to spring for the extra rims. But if the car keeps running for a few years, I might be sorry I didn't buy the extra rims.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=140178
LOL!