If I have mine outside in the cold for a few good hours, I ***NEED*** to turn off all components (radio, heat, defrost, etc) and then crank it. It always started this way w/out a pron. On the other hand I tried to start it with the radio and heater on at "2" and after 3-4 secs, I stopped, turned them all off, then it started.
Read this in the Integra -vs- RSX - vs- Celica board:
""I just read this in the NY Times:
"The only MP3's for sale these days are used ones. But those willing to wait will soon get another chance to buy this car, or one much like it, in a Mazda showroom. Impressed by customers' enthusiasm — and by reviewers' disappointment in the lack of power — Mazda has decided to produce a new version that it will unveil this spring, perhaps at the New York auto show next month. The car will get a new name and, praise the engineers, a turbocharger to give the engine enough juice to match the suspension.
No word yet on how much more the MP3's successor will cost than the $18,500 Mazda charged for the 2002 model. But in light of the traffic jam among under-$20,000 performance cars — think of the Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V, Honda Civic Si, Ford SVT Focus, Dodge Neon R/T, Toyota Matrix XRS and Pontiac Vibe GT — a big price increase probably isn't in the tea leaves."
The MP3 outslalomed a Ferrari 360 Spider and Corvettet ZO6, give it more hp and the car quite possibly jumps up to the top of my list in this price class!""
Did the MP3 outslalom the 360 Spider an Chevette (I know it's a Corvette)?
I think it might have in that car & driver comparo. It was really low on power, but it still won because of it's overall handling prowess and ride.
I too have that cold start hesitation. After cold starts, the car will hesitate around 3000 rpm, but the hesitation is gone after the engine is warm. It's annoying. I think it's a feature of the newer Mazda engines, cause my 93 mx6 2.0L doesn't do that.
Another question I had was re: manual trans fluid changes. How often should that be done? Is it necessary? My MX6 shifts pretty poorly compared to the Protege ES (of course the MX6 has 128k mi on it), but I can sometimes feel gear grinding thru the gearshift as I move thru the gates.
BUT, when I'll buy my used MX-3 in 5 spd in June, I will change the tranny oil, along with the coolant, check the brakes and brake fluid, rotate tires, etc...
Now I'm not 100% sure, but I did hear that changinf the tranny oil on a high mileage car that was never changed before can actually DAMAGE the tranny. Particles and oil that "host" the gears build a strong glue-like residue over time that prevents leaks, etc. So it might not be a good idea to disrupt that "sludge" if the tranny oil change was not done at regular intervals.
Q: Am I right, or way off?
What about an auto tranny? When would you change it?
Yes, it did, according to Road and Track's slalom times, anyway. They did a piece on under $25,000 sport cars in which, in addition to mentioning that tidbit, they refer to the MP3 as being the best sports car bargain available in the US today.
That's only on automatics. You want to be careful if you change the fluid on an automatic that has high mileage and it has never been done. It doesn't matter with a manual.
I know I see alot of Duratec-equipped Ford Taurus' and Sables on the side of the road on my travels back and forth to work. Believe it or not, that seems like the most popular car that I see on the road (to me anyway). That's what worries me about the Mazda 6 (using a Duratec derivitive engine). I like them alot though. Maybe it will be my next car purchase around 2004 or something. We shall see.
(and I believe Maltb might even appreciate this reply) ... I think the problem with the Taurus/Sable of late has been the transmission, not the engine. (Not that that matters all that much, though.) My neighbor was stranded on Maryland's Eastern Shore about three months ago when the tranny in his 1996 Taurus decided to leave part of itself on the highway.
This may in fact be a problem area for the Ford/Mazda marriage. The guy who dates my next-door neighbor's girlfriend went out and (despite my first-hand warnings) purchased a new Mazda B2300 pickup truck -- with a Ford engine. I just saw him the other day, getting into a rental car, in front of my neighbor's house. I said, "Hey, you didn't go and sell that nice pickup after owning it for only a year, did you?" He replied, "No, I'm going to pick it up now. It's been in the shop for two weeks getting a new transmission."
And to think it was a MAZDA transmission coupled to a FORD engine!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but haven't the current-generation 626s, which also have this kind of shared engine-and-transmission arrangement, also suffered from transmission problems?
I really appreciated the help and advice you given me and the HUGE asset you have been to this board. Listen, I will send you some appetizer cards to use at any TGI Friday's. Just, e-mail me your HOME address. I will pop them in the mail for you and your families use. I don't even need your name. I'll address it resident. BTW, you don't have to sign the appetizer card or anything. Just enjoy!
>>>>The MP3 outslalomed a Ferrari 360 Spider and Corvettet ZO6, give it more hp and the car quite possibly jumps up to the top of my list in this price class!""
Did the MP3 outslalom the 360 Spider an Chevette (I know it's a Corvette)? <<<<<
Yup. according to them, the only car that can out-slalom the $18,500 MP3 is a $150,000 Porsche
Actually Larry, it's all a big joke to me. I find it amusing when somebody assumes an identity for another. I'll send you an e-mail with my work addy. hehehe
Meade, since the first time I drove a 2.5L MPV I could not figure out what every press writer was so up in arms about. Go to the MPV forum(second happiest bunch of owners on Edmunds). This past weekend I was tailgating an Accord V-6 up one of our major passes going 80. The van easily pulls a trailer with motorcycles and equip to the desert in 100+ heat. I welcome the 3.0 as it gets a 5spd trans, but the 2.5 was fine for me.
Actually, no Ford engine was dropped into the 626; both the 2.0 and 2.5 are Mazda designs, shipped in from Japan. (The fact that Ford has both a 2.0 Zetec and a 2.5 Duratec is irrelevant.) The 2.0, since '94, has gotten Ford's CD4E transmission, about which perhaps the less said, the better. (This is how I attempt to stay on Malt's good side.)
In all the years I've been driving and all the cars I have owned -- never did I have any problems like you guys are discussing here.
Well, maybe three -- noise in a console, 1968 Riv. Turned out to be a too-long screw holding the console down, the driveshaft would pound on the bottom end of the screw over rough roads. Easy fix, switch the screws. And a 1957 Plymouth, the dumb factory assemblers left the plugs out of the ends of the rocker arms. Oil was being pumped against the firewall. Rocker arm plugs not listed as parts, the technician hand-forged them from a solid brass rod. You don't get that kind of service these days.
No problems with wheels, tires, rattles, canisters, etc., and no strut tower installation problems. LOL
And three: Touch up paint. Some jerk ripped my 1960 VW Beetle's left front fender as he pulled out of a parking space. The local paint shop did a lousy job matching the paint, it was a different shade of grey. My dad took the VW to an old timer friend in my hometown...his friend use to pinstripe horse-drawn wagons and the first cars, by hand. He matched the paint perfectly after mixing several samples. He charged $40. These days they have conputers that do what he did by eye. Ah the good old days. I miss those real experts.
I go back farther than you guys, when my neighbor's car had a real "trunk"...a leather-covered box strapped to a folding steel rack. When eggs, and a live chicken for Sunday dinner, were delivered by a farmer in his horse-drawn buggy on Saturday mornings. Zoom Zoom that wasn't, but it sure was fun getting a ride around the block. Before I learned to drive a car, I learned to drive a horse and buggy. If you sit on the wrong side of the buggy the horse wouldn't go. Maybe that's why some Pros won't start in the morning.
CAPP: If it's in May and I happen to be home this summer, I'll be there! Woodfield is maybe a 45 minute drive from my house, depending of course on traffic. Certainly would be fun, but we'll see where I am come summer.
engine noise when cold: My Pro5 does this too. I believe I remember hearing something about engine block and exhaust manifold being made of different materials and heating/expanding at different rates yadda yadda etc. I'm not positive this is really it but it sounds plausible enough. Not all parts of the engine heat at the same rate so it runs rough until the entire thing is warmed up. Mine sounds and even feels a bit gravelly (yes I can tell how warm the engine is by how smooth it idles and accelerates) while it's cold and I try to keep shifts around 2500rpm or so until the temp needle is well into the middle of the range. At this point the engine smooths out and power seems to come up a bit as well.
fowler: Good story, while I'm still a young whippersnapper and wasn't around for the good old days, I'm already amazed how far things like cell phones and computers have come since I was a kid. Makes me wonder what sort of crazy things we'll be seeing 50 years from now. BTW, I'm elec3 and protegelec over on yahoo. The unfortunate fact that a million billion more people use Yahoo than Edmunds Town Hall made that change necessary. Had to add a few letters
Protege's just do not like cold temperatures. It seems to run fine once it's warmed up, it's just a little annoying. But for 0.0% and a price of $15,000 I can't complain too much.
Well, my Pro is still at the dealership, and i am driving a lousy rented Corolla. Talk about a boring car.. The thing can not go to 65mph without a lot of work and heavy vibration.. The pothole I hit was not a pothole per se, but a leftover of a water mains repair. They basically dug a trench across one lane, replaced a pipe and repaved it. But I guess they did not do it correctly and by the end of the same day the repaved part was several inches lower then the rest of the road with nice sharp edges. That's how I lost all tires and bent the hell out of the rims.. I know it's cheaper to go aftermarket, but even if I got 16" rims from tirerack for $130 or so, it would still be at least a grand with tires. Those Dunlops are not cheap, at $104 a piece... I really wonder if it's some kind of defect or a poorly choosen tire/wheel combination. Lots and lots of people drove over the same thing but I was the one who lost all tires. So those of you with 02 Pro Es and 16" alloys may want to be carefull, seeing my example.
That's funny. My Protege seems to perform better (i.e. feels faster) in the cold. You know, some people spend big money to install intake air coolers on their cars. Cold weather does it for you!
I'm not a big audiophile, but the sound in my 02 Pro is pretty poor. I'd like to change the rear speakers but also increase the output, BUT retain the factory stereo unit. I know that the amplifiers I've had in the past were connected to low level outputs from the stereo unit.
Since the factory Mazda unit does not have low level outputs, does anyone make an amplifier that I can put in the trunk to ONLY power the new rears that can take a variable input signal from my factory unit? This way the fronts remain stock and I'd have the amp in the trunk to run the new rears.
I'm not looking for anything too heavy duty. I have no interest in shaking my fillings loose.
Hope I explained this correctly. I had a Nakamichi (sp?) amp that allowed variable input but that was on my MGB some 15 years ago when low level outputs were rare.
I wouldn't use the factory head unit if I were you. It sucks. I had a 2001 Protege ES, and blew the radio out 2 times because I was playing it too loud (the dealer said). The head unit controls the speakers, so they had to replace the head unit in the car twice. Still a crappy stereo system. The stereo in the 1999-2000 Protege was alot better, IMO.
Stereo question aside, I have one about the A/C compressor. I noticed this: With the car idling after being fully warmed, say at a light, and the fan OFF the car idles smoothly. If I have the air selector at full warm and aim ONLY at my feet, if I turn the fan speed to 1 (or any nuber other than off) the rpm surges up ever so slight, and I hear the fan kick on. This leads me ot believe that the A/C compressor is coming on to remove moisture. If I turn the fan back to off, the fan shuts off. Back to 1, the fan turns on. Also, if I turn the selector to put air only out the dash vents, the fan turns off. But I read the manual over and over again and it says if I want to remove moisture to manually push the A/C compressor button. What's the deal? The only reason for more cooling need (the reason the fan activates) is if the A/C compressor comes on. I have to pop the hood and look to see if the A/C compressor clutch activates with the heat on. I'm assuming that's what I will find since I hear the fan kick on.
I just can't believe that Mazda would design the system so that the A/C compressor activates every time the heat is on. For the defroster I understand, but not the heat.
My brother had an F-150 and on his, if the air was directed to any setting other than full feet or full dash vent the A/C would activate. but, his manual made that clear. Mazda'z does not.
That's true. The A/C compressor kicks on for everything but feet/face and face. This is the only car that I've owned that does this. I don't like it either.
I'm annoyed enough having spent over 16k on a car that I now have to change the speakers. The thought of adding an amp for the rear was a question I had. To change the head unit would be even more. Now I'd be buying a head unit, speakers and maybe an amp; and all right after buying the car! Changing the head unit might be something I'd do down the raod. That's why I was looking for an amp that would take both variable and low level outputs. this way, when and if I change the head unit, I will not have wasted my money on the amp. So, while the factory unit might not be the best, it's adequate for now for the purpose of powering the amp and fronts. that is, IF someone does make such an amp.
Anyone know what if any manufacturer allows low and variable inputs on the same amp?
Is it just me or is the manual NOT clear on this? My brother's manual for the F-150 was very clear in saying when the compressor kicks in and when it does not. The Mazda's is not. Or maybe I'm suffering advanced brain fade. Wouldn't be the first time!
At all settings other than Feet or Face and Feet, the AC comes on without pushing the AC button.
Be careful about upgrading speakers, especially ones with larger magnets. Many cars have computer chips in the frames and door posts which can be ruined by large magnets. I don't know if the Pro has chips like that, better check with the service people before changing.
you can get a converter that reduces normal speaker outputs to low level RCA outputs. Because the process is redundant you pick up a little noise, but this is commonly done by stereo shops when the customer wants to retain the stock head unit.
I wouldn't exactly call where you and I live "this area!" You're almost three hours north of me! Sorry big guy -- according to your weather for Baltimore, it's only going to hit 57 up there today.
rbrooks3, If you are serious about using an amp, look for one which has line-level or speaker level inputs. There are dozens out there that have this. Essentially, you just hook up the speaker wires from the head unit to the amp, and your new speakers to the amp. The head unit really isn't that bad. Mazda just saddled it with cheap speakers. This is apparently common practice amongst automakers these days. I had to pay about $400 extra for the Infinity system in my Jeep (it was worth it). My Jetta came with a "Monsoon" 8 speaker system, but it sounded about the same as my Protege's stock stereo. As far as speakers go, I would recommend something with a high sensitivity or efficiency rating (92 dB or better). This will take the most advantage of the stock head unit. Personally, I plan to replace the speakers first, then add an amp if necessary.
You forget, I work like 5 mins. from DC though, so I am about an hour or two from you right now. It's nice outside. Don't know the temp., but I definitely had the sunroof and windows down driving to and from lunch. There was a little chill, but my seat heaters helped chase that away.
... gone and played with the "wheel selector" at tirerack.com? I can't believe I never checked it out -- I only looked at (and eventually purchased) tires! You choose your year, make and model car, and THE COLOR, and then you can select wheels -- there were THIRTY-SEVEN choices for my 2000 ES -- but the cool thing is, it shows your car with each selection of wheels on it! COOL, COOL, COOL!!!
One more thing I forgot to mention is that there is some debate about having full range speakers in the rear of your car. The conventional wisdom is that the rear speakers are there to fill in the sounds that the front speakers, which tend to be high range, don't put out. This is all fine and dandy, unless you are going to sit in the dead center of the passenger compartment, you aren't going to get to enjoy this effect. I don't imagine the center console is that comfortable to sit on anyway. The more progressive thinking these days is more sound is better. If you can fit 25 speakers into the car, then do it! This too is fine, right up to the point at which you go deaf. As it is, a large number of people have tinitis and don't even know it because they almost never experience silence. I think that there is a happy medium where you have 4-6 good speakers putting out excellent sound at a reasonable volume.
THAT'S the one thing all the "young people" seem to be unaware of these days! Music doesn't have to be blasting from two feet away at 300 watts! Whatever happened to the way WE (sorry, I'm 36) used to buy speakers? Not just by power-handling capability, but things like THD? (Do any of you younger guys even know what THD stands for, and if you do, what's a good one?) How about amplifier purity? Impedance tolerances? (Here's an old one -- "wow and flutter!" But I guess that disappeared with turntables and cassette decks.) Now it seems all people are concerned with is size, looks (gimme a break) and POWER!
Been by the automotive department at Wal-Mart lately? What's the deal with those subwoofers that have NEON TUBING around them? Anyone with half a brain for electronics knows that as far as interference is concerned, neon is second only to those high-voltage power lines you pass under -- only the neon isn't just in your car and a few feet from your receiver, it's also mere INCHES from the coils in your speakers! What moron thought that up? Obviously someone who wants you to keep buying replacement speakers ...
Why don't these people just mount their speakers OUTSIDE their cars? Isn't that the whole purpose anyway? To show off?
As a newspaper reporter in the early 90s, when names like Rockford Fosgate were starting to replace names like Jensen and Nakamichi, I did an investigative piece on these high-bass, high-treble, high-volume custom installations. After getting the specs on these things from a local car audio dealer, I interviewed an otolaryngologist. Using a power level that was mid-range for a lot of these installations, he said the young people who listen to these things will in most cases lose the upper range of their hearing entirely by their mid-30s, and many of them will lose their hearing altogether by age 50. Once you damage the receptors (cilia) inside your eustachian tubes, gentlemen, they're damaged for good!
I'm not that old and still recall W&F. The lower the THD, the better too. I never could afford the really quality stuff, but apparently, my ears aren't that sensitive, so I make do with "good-enough" stuff.
I almost never take the volume meter on my '99's factory unit past 4 bars (out of 10), unless the recording level is really low. Of course, I did upgrade the speakers to ones with decently-size magnets.
Brake fluid has a "lifespan." Just topping it off won't do -- you have to change it out completely every so often. (And it isn't that often.)
Here's some backup for what I just said from hayesdiscbrake.com:
"DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid naturally absorbs water and should be changed every 2 years. Failure to change the brake fluid will result in a lower boiling point for the brake fluid and can cause poor braking."
Meade: So your PROs seem to run better when cold? How cold do you mean? When it's 32F here, it doesn't run smooth for a few mins. If it's about +10 to +15C it runs very smooth from the start. So I guess our definition of "cold" is different. I mean as Protege_fan, duh_ster and I will tell you, it gets cold when you have -15C. Speaking of which, how cold does it get in VA?
Speakers: When buying speakers I don't look for anything above 50W since it's pretty useless. I don't think wattage matters as much as high treble and deep bass. By deep bass I don't mean shake the PRO until the doors fall off the car, but the type of bass you get at a movie theatre. The factory PRO system is ok for my needs, but it does not compare with a good system, like you might have at home. I know it doesn't compare with mine (which is a $600 system) or one of our family friend that paid over $3000 for speakers alone! But for winter weather is fine, and when I have the windows down during summer, I can live with it, although I will admit I miss the Sony Xpolde in my Civic.
Comments
Dinu
Dinu
Meade
Isn't that what internet forum's all about?
""I just read this in the NY Times:
"The only MP3's for sale these days are used ones.
But those willing to wait will soon get another chance to buy this car, or one much like it, in a Mazda showroom. Impressed by customers' enthusiasm — and by reviewers' disappointment in the lack of power — Mazda has decided to produce a new version that it will unveil this spring, perhaps at the New York auto show next month. The car will get a new name and, praise the engineers, a turbocharger to give the engine enough juice to match the suspension.
No word yet on how much more the MP3's successor will cost than the $18,500 Mazda charged for the 2002 model. But in light of the traffic jam among under-$20,000 performance cars — think of the Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V, Honda Civic Si, Ford SVT Focus, Dodge Neon R/T, Toyota Matrix XRS and Pontiac Vibe GT — a big price increase probably isn't in the tea leaves."
The MP3 outslalomed a Ferrari 360 Spider and Corvettet ZO6, give it more hp and the car quite possibly jumps up to the top of my list in this price class!""
Did the MP3 outslalom the 360 Spider an Chevette (I know it's a Corvette)?
Hank: It's a good argument though...
Dinu
I too have that cold start hesitation. After cold starts, the car will hesitate around 3000 rpm, but the hesitation is gone after the engine is warm. It's annoying. I think it's a feature of the newer Mazda engines, cause my 93 mx6 2.0L doesn't do that.
Another question I had was re: manual trans fluid changes. How often should that be done? Is it necessary? My MX6 shifts pretty poorly compared to the Protege ES (of course the MX6 has 128k mi on it), but I can sometimes feel gear grinding thru the gearshift as I move thru the gates.
BUT, when I'll buy my used MX-3 in 5 spd in June, I will change the tranny oil, along with the coolant, check the brakes and brake fluid, rotate tires, etc...
Now I'm not 100% sure, but I did hear that changinf the tranny oil on a high mileage car that was never changed before can actually DAMAGE the tranny. Particles and oil that "host" the gears build a strong glue-like residue over time that prevents leaks, etc. So it might not be a good idea to disrupt that "sludge" if the tranny oil change was not done at regular intervals.
Q: Am I right, or way off?
What about an auto tranny? When would you change it?
Dinu
Our Ford powered MPV seems to be a good example of how the two brands can peacefully co-exist.
;-)
Meade
P.S. Would that MPV happen to have the infamous underpowered engine, or the new one that Ford finally got correctly mated with the vehicle?
This may in fact be a problem area for the Ford/Mazda marriage. The guy who dates my next-door neighbor's girlfriend went out and (despite my first-hand warnings) purchased a new Mazda B2300 pickup truck -- with a Ford engine. I just saw him the other day, getting into a rental car, in front of my neighbor's house. I said, "Hey, you didn't go and sell that nice pickup after owning it for only a year, did you?" He replied, "No, I'm going to pick it up now. It's been in the shop for two weeks getting a new transmission."
And to think it was a MAZDA transmission coupled to a FORD engine!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but haven't the current-generation 626s, which also have this kind of shared engine-and-transmission arrangement, also suffered from transmission problems?
Meade
-Larry
Did the MP3 outslalom the 360 Spider an Chevette (I know it's a Corvette)? <<<<<
Yup.
according to them, the only car that can out-slalom the $18,500 MP3 is a $150,000 Porsche
Made me feel very proud that day.
Meade, since the first time I drove a 2.5L MPV I could not figure out what every press writer was so up in arms about. Go to the MPV forum(second happiest bunch of owners on Edmunds). This past weekend I was tailgating an Accord V-6 up one of our major passes going 80. The van easily pulls a trailer with motorcycles and equip to the desert in 100+ heat. I welcome the 3.0 as it gets a 5spd trans, but the 2.5 was fine for me.
Well, maybe three -- noise in a console, 1968 Riv. Turned out to be a too-long screw holding the console down, the driveshaft would pound on the bottom end of the screw over rough roads. Easy fix, switch the screws. And a 1957 Plymouth, the dumb factory assemblers left the plugs out of the ends of the rocker arms. Oil was being pumped against the firewall. Rocker arm plugs not listed as parts, the technician hand-forged them from a solid brass rod. You don't get that kind of service these days.
No problems with wheels, tires, rattles, canisters, etc., and no strut tower installation problems. LOL
And three: Touch up paint. Some jerk ripped my 1960 VW Beetle's left front fender as he pulled out of a parking space. The local paint shop did a lousy job matching the paint, it was a different shade of grey. My dad took the VW to an old timer friend in my hometown...his friend use to pinstripe horse-drawn wagons and the first cars, by hand. He matched the paint perfectly after mixing several samples. He charged $40. These days they have conputers that do what he did by eye. Ah the good old days. I miss those real experts.
I go back farther than you guys, when my neighbor's car had a real "trunk"...a leather-covered box strapped to a folding steel rack. When eggs, and a live chicken for Sunday dinner, were delivered by a farmer in his horse-drawn buggy on Saturday mornings. Zoom Zoom that wasn't, but it sure was fun getting a ride around the block. Before I learned to drive a car, I learned to drive a horse and buggy. If you sit on the wrong side of the buggy the horse wouldn't go. Maybe that's why some Pros won't start in the morning.
fowler3
If it were within my power, the 626 would have been fully revised long ago.
Well, if mine ever dies, you can tell me you told me so.
engine noise when cold: My Pro5 does this too. I believe I remember hearing something about engine block and exhaust manifold being made of different materials and heating/expanding at different rates yadda yadda etc. I'm not positive this is really it but it sounds plausible enough. Not all parts of the engine heat at the same rate so it runs rough until the entire thing is warmed up. Mine sounds and even feels a bit gravelly (yes I can tell how warm the engine is by how smooth it idles and accelerates) while it's cold and I try to keep shifts around 2500rpm or so until the temp needle is well into the middle of the range. At this point the engine smooths out and power seems to come up a bit as well.
fowler: Good story, while I'm still a young whippersnapper and wasn't around for the good old days, I'm already amazed how far things like cell phones and computers have come since I was a kid. Makes me wonder what sort of crazy things we'll be seeing 50 years from now. BTW, I'm elec3 and protegelec over on yahoo. The unfortunate fact that a million billion more people use Yahoo than Edmunds Town Hall made that change necessary. Had to add a few letters
The pothole I hit was not a pothole per se, but a leftover of a water mains repair. They basically dug a trench across one lane, replaced a pipe and repaved it. But I guess they did not do it correctly and by the end of the same day the repaved part was several inches lower then the rest of the road with nice sharp edges. That's how I lost all tires and bent the hell out of the rims.. I know it's cheaper to go aftermarket, but even if I got 16" rims from tirerack for $130 or so, it would still be at least a grand with tires. Those Dunlops are not cheap, at $104 a piece... I really wonder if it's some kind of defect or a poorly choosen tire/wheel combination. Lots and lots of people drove over the same thing but I was the one who lost all tires. So those of you with 02 Pro Es and 16" alloys may want to be carefull, seeing my example.
Meade
Since the factory Mazda unit does not have low level outputs, does anyone make an amplifier that I can put in the trunk to ONLY power the new rears that can take a variable input signal from my factory unit? This way the fronts remain stock and I'd have the amp in the trunk to run the new rears.
I'm not looking for anything too heavy duty. I have no interest in shaking my fillings loose.
Hope I explained this correctly. I had a Nakamichi (sp?) amp that allowed variable input but that was on my MGB some 15 years ago when low level outputs were rare.
Thanks,
Ron B.
I just can't believe that Mazda would design the system so that the A/C compressor activates every time the heat is on. For the defroster I understand, but not the heat.
My brother had an F-150 and on his, if the air was directed to any setting other than full feet or full dash vent the A/C would activate. but, his manual made that clear. Mazda'z does not.
Thanks,
Ron B.
Anyone know what if any manufacturer allows low and variable inputs on the same amp?
Be careful about upgrading speakers, especially ones with larger magnets. Many cars have computer chips in the frames and door posts which can be ruined by large magnets. I don't know if the Pro has chips like that, better check with the service people before changing.
fowler3
I suppose Jim that an airplane will crash when I turn on a cell phone too?
Who eliminated in your breakfast cereal this morning?
(Sure, I thought Jim had taken a little leave of reality with that suggestion too -- but hey!)
I'd rather say, don't put larger magnets in your car doors because they tend to affect things like window panes, drywall joints and MY EARDRUMS!!!!
Meade
Spring can't get here soon enough!
Meade
I wouldn't exactly call where you and I live "this area!" You're almost three hours north of me! Sorry big guy -- according to your weather for Baltimore, it's only going to hit 57 up there today.
Meade
If you are serious about using an amp, look for one which has line-level or speaker level inputs. There are dozens out there that have this. Essentially, you just hook up the speaker wires from the head unit to the amp, and your new speakers to the amp. The head unit really isn't that bad. Mazda just saddled it with cheap speakers. This is apparently common practice amongst automakers these days. I had to pay about $400 extra for the Infinity system in my Jeep (it was worth it). My Jetta came with a "Monsoon" 8 speaker system, but it sounded about the same as my Protege's stock stereo. As far as speakers go, I would recommend something with a high sensitivity or efficiency rating (92 dB or better). This will take the most advantage of the stock head unit. Personally, I plan to replace the speakers first, then add an amp if necessary.
;-)
Meade
Meade
Been by the automotive department at Wal-Mart lately? What's the deal with those subwoofers that have NEON TUBING around them? Anyone with half a brain for electronics knows that as far as interference is concerned, neon is second only to those high-voltage power lines you pass under -- only the neon isn't just in your car and a few feet from your receiver, it's also mere INCHES from the coils in your speakers! What moron thought that up? Obviously someone who wants you to keep buying replacement speakers ...
Why don't these people just mount their speakers OUTSIDE their cars? Isn't that the whole purpose anyway? To show off?
As a newspaper reporter in the early 90s, when names like Rockford Fosgate were starting to replace names like Jensen and Nakamichi, I did an investigative piece on these high-bass, high-treble, high-volume custom installations. After getting the specs on these things from a local car audio dealer, I interviewed an otolaryngologist. Using a power level that was mid-range for a lot of these installations, he said the young people who listen to these things will in most cases lose the upper range of their hearing entirely by their mid-30s, and many of them will lose their hearing altogether by age 50. Once you damage the receptors (cilia) inside your eustachian tubes, gentlemen, they're damaged for good!
Meade
I'm not that old and still recall W&F. The lower the THD, the better too. I never could afford the really quality stuff, but apparently, my ears aren't that sensitive, so I make do with "good-enough" stuff.
I almost never take the volume meter on my '99's factory unit past 4 bars (out of 10), unless the recording level is really low. Of course, I did upgrade the speakers to ones with decently-size magnets.
-Larry
Here's some backup for what I just said from hayesdiscbrake.com:
"DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid naturally absorbs water and should be changed every 2 years. Failure to change the brake fluid will result in a lower boiling point for the brake fluid and can cause poor braking."
Meade
Don't use anything below DOT 4.
Speakers: When buying speakers I don't look for anything above 50W since it's pretty useless. I don't think wattage matters as much as high treble and deep bass. By deep bass I don't mean shake the PRO until the doors fall off the car, but the type of bass you get at a movie theatre. The factory PRO system is ok for my needs, but it does not compare with a good system, like you might have at home. I know it doesn't compare with mine (which is a $600 system) or one of our family friend that paid over $3000 for speakers alone! But for winter weather is fine, and when I have the windows down during summer, I can live with it, although I will admit I miss the Sony Xpolde in my Civic.
Dinu