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Comments
You need to find better mechanics.
'Chatter when accelerating' is ping. I bet you have the 3L motor. Many of these ping, and the only solution is to use higher octane gas. These 3L have pinged for the last 15 years and Ford seems to not want to re-design them to stop it.
What codes have shown up?
What have the different places told you?
What has been replaced?
Did the different mechanics do the work or did you do it?
Does the light stay on constantly or just flicker on and then off?
Thanx!!!
'Wind out' in my youth meant to accelerate to high rpm's in a gear before shifting. Do you mean your automatic transmission will not upshift until it reaches high rpms?
If this is so, this sometimes can be caused by the vacumn line to the vacumn modulator valve on the transmission is unplugged. Without vacumn to this valve, the tranny will not shift at the usual speed and must be over-reved before it shifts.
This is something you can rather easily check. On my 95 4L, this valve is on the right side of the tranny, toward the front, rather high up and behind a shield or something. But you should be able to get to the line and check to see if it is still on the valve. Follow the line back to the motor to check that end also.
If this valve has a hole in its diaphram, you will be sucking tranny fluid up the vacumn hose and into the intake, burning the fluid. Your truck should smoke, a white smoke, and your tranny fluid should be low. These valves seldom go bad.
If this line is ok, I think it's time to take it to a tranny shop.
Internal problems in a tire could also be the problem.
Let a good alignment shop look at the tire. They should be able to tell quickly if there is balance or alignment problems.
Whoever told you that the crankshaft was aluminum:
1. Is either ignorant beyond belief
2. Is lying to you
3. Or you misunderstood what they said.
thanks montyanger98
However, recently I have experienced a few problems...hope they are still minor =P
Recently I got a check engine light on #P0420. I looked it up and says its an effiecency issue and try resetting the computer and see if it comes back on. So I reset it by disconnecting the battery (just the negative terminal). Light has been off since a few days and the truck runs great. But my new issue is ever since I did that, when I am at idle, my AC Compressor cuts on and off about every 5 seconds. But, when I drive around or rev the engine slightly, the compressor will stay on.
Seems to me the engine idle gets pretty low when the compressor kicks on so the computer shuts it off, and then it kicks it back on again and the cycle continues.
I am not too mechanically inclined, so just wanted to know what you experienced guys and gals can offer me in the way of a fix for this issue
thanks
mike
1. It runs great for weeks or months at a time, then one morning it just won't start.
2. This usually occurs when it is chilly in the morning, but has happened during normal afternoons.
3. Usually, it will start if I just leave it alone for a few hours, but on occasion it refuses to start for days or weeks.
4. I have sent it to the dealer several times for evaluation but they can never find anything. Usually, by the time they get it to their shop (on a tow truck) it fires right up. Then I get to pay for their trouble while mine comes back a few weeks later.
5. Whenever the problem occurs, all tests I can make show that it is not getting a spark.
6. All fuses and relays appear in good condition.
7. There is no indication of a problem (check engine) code; my reader says "0".
What is going on here? I love my truck, and I don't want to get another one, but I have lived with this problem for over three years. Just when I think the problem is fixed, and I can relax, it does it all over again. Any suggestions?
ANYWAY, the noise is still there but not all the time. Some days I don't hear it at all. I've talked with David again about this as well as some other friends. Right now our best guess is that it's either a rear wheel bearing, or it's in the rear-end itself, or it's the bearing on the crossmember that supports the driveshaft in the middle. This is a sealed bearing so there's no way to grease it.
I'm just going to keep running it until it quits and try not to make any long trips. My dad did suggest that I could just put a pair of mud and snow tires and then I probably wouldn't notice it at all. :shades:
Has anyone answered your question yet?
rosa-w@
comcast.net
Speedometer not working
Odometer no working
ABS light on
Check Engine light on
Everything else works on the speedo cluster
Odly enoght the dome light does not work, but the wipers do, I'm told all three, light, wipers and speedo are on the same fuse (which is ok)
Thanks
This is probably 'ping'.
If it was not doing this before the 'tuneup', I would take it back to the mechanic as tell him he did something to it.
He 'might' have put incorrect spark plugs into it, if he changed these. His 'fuel injection' cleaning might have broken some carbon loose in the cylinders and this is causing pinging. He might have knocked a vacumn hose loose. He might have misrouted a spark plug wire and it is now arcing.
On Rangers, 'pinging' is a usual occurance on 3Liter V6 engines, and little can be done about it except to use higher octane gasoline.
The oil pressure gage drop to o then right back up to normal while driving on the highway- no stopping, engine still ran, but the squeel stopped for about 5 seconds. I have a 2002 Edge- any suggestions?
There is a black "Bladder" inside the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir.
What is the function of this and is it a crucial part of the system?
I found out that the crankshart position sensor is the probable culprit. when it is cold, and the sensor is old, the magnet gets weak, the plastic shrinks, and it does not register motion on the crankshaft. it also does not give a trouble code. According to my source, the ignition coil is the only other component that can give the same symptoms, and since I already replaced that, the $14.00 sensor was my last choice. so far it is working just fine.