Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

mazdafun · November 2001

A dealer service department might try to use that against you. I haven't had any issues with mine (other than that the technician missed something, like putting bearing grease seals back in place or cross-threading a wheel stud) like that. I haven't been back to them for an oil change in several years (none done by them at all on my '99 LX). Of course, I haven't had any warranty work done that could be related to engine lubrication.

Also, just because the oil mfr says you can go longer doesn't mean you shouldn't change the filter. Either find a larger-capacity filter or change at the regular intervals.

For me, I pay more for the raw materials because I prefer the way my engine sounds and runs with synthetic. Since I do the work myself, it costs me roughly $15 (v. $6)in oil and oil filter, plus about 30 minutes of my time (including prep and clean-up work).

Regarding seal materials, I can't vouch for all makes, but most materials used these days shouldn't swell when exposed to synthetic oils. This was a much bigger problem when everything was made from butyl rubber.

Sporin · November 2001

I ran Mobil1 Synthetic in my turbo Passat when I had it. Synthetic is great for turbos because of it's high heat tolerance.

I'm switching to Valvoline Synthetic BLEND for my Protege. I want somehting a bit "better" then regular dino for better cold startups and longer drain intervals. But I don't think that full Synth is necessary in this low compression, N.A. engine.

So I split the difference! :-)

protege_fan · November 2001

Can somebody list a price comparo for the 3 type of oils:
Sytnh
Blend
Dino

Thanks

vocus · November 2001

I just bought a Jetta and have some questions for you, since mine is a 1.8T like your Passat was. If you could email me, I would appreciate it. My email address is in my profile. Thanks.

sd1228 · November 2001

I have the "check engine" indicator set on Mazda Protege 95 LX. Last time this happened, according to mechanic it was
false alarm (with "recirculation exhaust" EGR code)
So before I take it to the shop, I would like to reset it and see
if it turns back on any time soon.

So how do I reset it ? Will it automatically reset
itself based on X times cold start etc.
(In some posts I have seen people mentioning drive for a
week and it will shut itself off. But no specific criteria)

mazdafun · November 2001

Per US quart:

Synth: about $4-4.50
Blend: anywhere from $2-3
Dino: about $1-1.30

I use either Mobil1 or Valvoline full synthetic.

mdaffron · November 2001

Usually disconnecting the battery's negative terminal for a couple of minutes will reset your check engine light and clear any stored codes.

I learned this trick and became quite accustomed to it with my POS 1994 Mazda B2300 pickup. (Hey, I know ... Ford through and through.)

Meade

gandrigo · November 2001

My 99 Protege (1.6L) suffers from a rough Idle. Just had the 48000km service done (replaced plugs , all fluids, all filters, adjust belts, idle etc..) As you increase the electrical load at idle by turning on the defroster and increasing fan speed, the idle gets noticeably rougher. You can feel the vibrations through the seat and steering wheel. Isn't there a sensor that should adjust the idle speed according to load? It all checked out fine at Mazda. Perhaps I am loosing my mind, but I don't recall this happening when the car was new. Any suggestion as to cause or remedy would be appreciated. My dealer seems less than motivated to help.
Thanks

vocus · November 2001

I used to have a 1999 Protege DX with the 1.6 liter engine in it. Right around 35,000 miles, I noticed the idle starting to get rougher. The steering wheel and seat started to vibrate just like you described. Maybe it's just normal wear and tear. I never took my car to the dealer, because I traded it for a 2001 ES with 38K on it.

mazdafun · November 2001

Sounds to me like some adjustment they made caused your rough idling. It's probably "within spec" though, so all you can do is complain to the service manager until he/she gets tired of it and gets it done better.

You might want to find an independent garage or mechanic who has more pride in their work.

"Within specifications" is an excuse used by lazy/non-caring people.

Sporin · November 2001

So after *2* attempts to do it myself, I brought my oil and filter to my local garage and had them do it. they charged me $15 and it was worth every penny. He let me hang out and watch. He checked my gear oil, antifreeze and other fluids too, topping off as necessary. It's nice to have a competant, trustworthy independent shop right in town.

The filter was a bear to get off and my filter wrench was too big. The oil drain bolt is the obvious one on the bottom, back of the black oil pan. The manual says it's on the front.

I used the Bosch filter and 5W-30 Valvoline Synthetic Blend oil. It took about 3.5 quarts. I'm at 4400 miles and intend to change around every 5k as recommended in the manual. I'd love to find a bigger filter.

At this mileage, I have no problems to report. The engine has really loosened up and revs smoothly and sweetly to redline without much prodding. The interior is quiet except for one small rattle/buzz coming from the glove-box. I need to empty it and see if my wife can track it down on our commute. I'm not really worried about it.

Does anyone have tourqe specs for the lug nuts? I need to switch over to mywinter wheels/tires soon and want to get it right.

nikecar · November 2001

So I guess no one has ever used a Mobil 1 Filter to answer my previous question...

black01coupev6 · November 2001

I used a Mobil 1 in my 01 ES at it's 3500 mile change but I didn't do it myself.

Sporin · November 2001

I used Mobil 1 filters in my Passat. Good filter.

nikecar · November 2001

the question I had was when I did my 1st oil change, I used a purolator filter. same size as OEM. Now I used Mobil 1 oil and the Mobil 1 filter, and the filter is smaller than the previous filters. about a half-inch shorter. I just wanted to know if anyone has noticed it.

mazdafun · November 2001

It should be in your owner's manual. In mine, it's listed where they describe how to use the temporary spare. You'd think it'd be in the specifications section, but it isn't.

Sporin · November 2001

thanks mazdafun

Sporin · November 2001

I got this from another board...

znole

Protege Newbie

Registered: Oct 2001

Location: Southern-Ontario

Posts: 18

yeah, i hate that air wrench gun for lug nuts. i bought myself a torque wrench (a nice one with case) and a deep socket, and do it myself. squarely mounting on the wheel is to do a star pattern at 30-lbs and then 60-lbs and then finally 85-lbs. note, during torqueing, wheels must be off the ground not resting. the manual stated 80-lbs (if you look in the flat tire section), but i put a little into it, 85-lbs. when i mounted my wheels this way, all the vibrations and shutters are gone (yeah, squarely mounted).

btw, over torque may cause breakage in nuts, bolts, threads, etc..

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=722

I hope my torque wrench goes up to 80 ft. lbs.

mazdafun · November 2001

Most automotive ones do. I set mine at about 75lb-ft (a little over 9.0kg-m). I think the spec range is 65-87lb-ft or 9.0-12.0kg-m (90-120Nm).

You can definitely strip threads or break off studs by over-tightening.

People using powered drivers can easily cross-thread, which ruins the nut for sure and can damage the stud enough to warrant replacement (about $50US). After losing two to careless mechanics, I do all my tire rotations myself. While they're off, you can inspect your brake pads and rotors. Drums in the rear usually don't wear out before front disc pads do, so I wouldn't bother checking them until you replace the front pads. When I inspected the ones on my '89 323, they still had about 75% of their original specified thickness when I replaced my front pads.

nikecar · November 2001

I saw some on Sears.com if i recall correctly, there were some with cases that were 25-250 ft./lbs

speedypt · November 2001

Good info for me...I just bought a 20-150ft/lb wrench from Snears. It sets much like a micrometer caliper. Can't wait to try it out...Snow in the forcast for Chicago possibly Wed-Thurs of this week.

BTW...the wrench cost $70 - 10% ($7) = $63 + tax. My brother (an engineer who has designed MANY tools) says it's one of the best torque wrenches out there for under $500. He's never steered me wrong.

Regards,

Pete

Sporin · November 2001

Turns out the torque wrench I got for Xmas last year only goes to 75ft. lbs. It's a Craftsman, obbviously from Sears, I wonder if I can exchange it on a different one?

Anyone familiar with Sear's policy on that?

timhonda · November 2001

I just got a Pittsburgh-brand torque wrench with a set of deep sockets from mail order for
9.95 dollars and 19.95 dollars, respectively. Yes, the wrench with a case is 9.95 dollars that was a sale price. It goes up to 100 ft/lb. I used it to put on a hitch bar onto my Honda Odyssey, and it worked nicely. I'll find the mail-order catalog if you want to order one. Before the wrench was on sale, it was 19.95 dollars.

nikecar · November 2001

which wrench was it? I'm going to ask for Christmas for one...

maltb · November 2001

I'm not so sure I'd trust a $10 torque wrench, but I guess it depends on what you use it for.

If it's Pittsburg brand it came from: http://www.harborfreight.com
Many cheap Chinese tools there, but for some of the stuff, who cares.

timhonda · November 2001

Yes, you're right that the wrench came from Harborfreight. I'm not sure I trust my wrench, either, but it's cheap and workable for only exchanging wheels. I have three vehicles so it's cheaper to do it myself.

Sporin · November 2001

I decided to hang onto the nice, expensive Craftsman Torque wrench my f-i-l gave me last Christmas and ordered one of those inexpensive ones from Harbor Frieght.

$19 with shipping. That's half the price of having a shop switch my wheels just once.

speedypt · November 2001

It's a Craftsman Microtork torque wrench. 1/2" drive, 20-150 lb/ft, 33.1-210 N-m scales. Sears tool #44595.

Regards,

Pete

nikecar · November 2001

that's the one I think I like, only with a 3/8" head.

nikecar · November 2001

After looking at the Service manual for my Altima, I've decided on the 3/8" 5-80 ft/lb one.. a Digitork one

Most diagrams show that range the most. I'd like the in/lb too, but there are more pressing stuff for the 5-80 range.

speedypt · November 2001

...but ultimately decided on the 1/2" one. Most of the sockets for the lugnuts seem common to 1/2" drive, and the 1/2" - 3/8" adapter allows me to use my multitudes of 3/8" sockets with it as well.

Plus the handle was longer on the 1/2" one, requiring less effort at higher torque settings on my part. (Bum shoulder necessitates this).

Regards,

Pete

westy5 · December 2001

I'm a new Protege 5 owner and was looking for suggestions/help/comments on what brand of wax and what types of cloths should be used. Also, what are folks using to clean their interior dash (Black Magic, Armor All, a damp cloth, etc.)??

I've read that some people avoid coin-operated car washes in the winter due to the water being recycled (thus containing salt from previous car washings). Is this a legitimate concern??

Your help is appreciated.

protegextwo · December 2001

http://www.thewaxtest.com/home.html

Try these web sites. These are my top secret places to learn about car care. Enjoy!

http://www.autopia-forums.com/

Respectfully,
Larry

nikecar · December 2001

if http://www.autopia-forums.com/ is your top secret place, the jig is up... *grin*

protegextwo · December 2001

I'm always willing to reveal my Protege detail secrets. Someone, just needs to ask?
;-}

-Larry

nikecar · December 2001

actual I meant I already knew about them... and the Classic Motoring Accesories is here in town...

protegextwo · December 2001

"the Classic Motoring Accesories is here in town..."

What is their retail store like? BTW, check out the Wax Test Web Site, if you have not alreadt done so! Verrry cool!

-Larry

speedypt · December 2001

Hey gang...

Has anyone else tried to clean the REALLY stuck on brake dust from the INSIDE of the rim? Is there a way to do it without destroying the finish? I tried a little Brasso on the inside of one of the spokes and it worked pretty well but after reading the bottle it says not to use on aluminum. Our rims are cast aluminum...right?

Any suggestions?

Regards,

Pete

hari109 · December 2001

hi all!

my 2000 pro is set for a 15000 mile service in 2 days time. i do not know much about car maintenance. would you please let me know what kinds of service/maintenance issues i am to be aware of before i step into the dealership. what consists of a normal 15K service and how much (approx) would it cost ?

just for info, i am in central NJ and my dealer is Route1 Automall, Woodbridge.

thanks a lot.

nikecar · December 2001

I haven't been there yet, but I do know the area. I always look for it since its on the way to the movies.

I called one time to get something over Labor Day but they were closed. They said they aren't really a retail shop like a PepBOys is, however if I wanted to pick something up I ordered I could..

BTW.. who was it that ordered the Klasse system? was it you? I was reading that Wax Test and it seems to do pretty good...

protegextwo · December 2001

I am using KLASSE on both my Protege's. KLASSE is very easy and very good.

-Larry

alternator · January 2002

The owners manual for my 2002 Pro LX says that the "Low fuel warning light" signals that the fuel tank will soon be empty. The very following page says that the "Check engine light" may come on if the fuel tank level becomes low or approaching empty. Can someone please tell me how soon do things go from merely getting a "warning" to causing the "check engine light" to come on?

The manual also says that if fuel-filler cap is missing or not tightened securely the "check engine light" may come on.

In some previous Edmunds Pro posting it was said that if the "check engine light" comes on it means the dealer is required to turn the light off. But, another posting said that simply disconnecting the negative battery lead (and reconnecting it several minutes later) would allow the computer to re-set itself, and no trip to the dealer is needed. This sounds plausible to me. Can anyone confirm this?

mazdafun · January 2002

If it's something like the gas cap being loose, the "check engine" light should go off after a few starts.

pcalvin · February 2002

Anyone know how to get some hardened Tree sap off your hood, without removing the paint? This stuff is realy on there.

the_big_h · February 2002

should get that stuff off.

If not, try some bug & tar remover, that stuff removes bad stuff really well.

Sporin · February 2002

Paint cleaning CLAY.

Mequire's, Mothers, Griot's Garage.. nearly all the big companies make it.

mazdafun · February 2002

Just a little bit at a time. You'll need to reapply your wax or polish afterwards as it'll take that off as well.

newcar31 · February 2002

I'm getting close to 15K miles and I want to change my spark plugs. I have done this on all of my cars, but this is the first car I've had that has coil packs on top of the plugs. Do you need a special tool to remove the wires on this car ala VW VR6? Is there anything special about replacing the plugs in this car, or is it just like every other car? Maltb? Anyone?

speedypt · February 2002

Spark plugs change just like all others. No difference here.

Regards,

Pete

newcar31 · February 2002

I tried to pull the wires off the plugs and they seem like they're on there awfully tight. It feels like I'm going to wreck the wire when I yank on them that hard.

Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

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