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Different engines and years work differently so I'd take my advice with a grain of salt and see if you can get some advice from an auto parts store.
I could use a little help here... I have a 96 GC Laredo w/120,000 on a 4.0. Whenever I turn on the A/C or Heat I get a smell comparable to a still day in a barnyard. Its not even possible to remain in the vehicle with it on. Theres nothing in the intake under the cowl, thats clean. ANY help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks - Sara:)
Upon taking my 2005 Jeep to the dealer I was told this was because the truck was equipped with a double over drive (over drive at 20 mph?) having this be my third Grand Cherokee I found this answer to be a cop out.
Also the ventilation system is slow and sluggish when first turned on it will blow out either hot or cold air depending on the outside temp for the first 45 second until it figures out where the dial is set, Hot or cold? Floor or Vent?.
The floor vents will always stay on even if the vents are placed on face. Again upon bring my Jeep into the dealer I was told "these Jeeps are very computerized now a days, and it would be impossible to figure out why this is happing" His advise... "make the A/C warmer if my feet got cold"....What should I expect for $34,000 Perfection? NOTE: Don't even get me started on the major blind spots in the rear when having to back up.
Honestly if I had to do it again I would not go with a Grand Cherokee , Thank God its a Lease this is going to be a long 3 years!!!
Lost Marbles
ALIGNMENT people, get one done by a shop that guarantees it for a while, so you can mess with the steering and get it done again and again, until you've solved the problem. Mine is almost completely fixed, it does it sometimes, you have to slow down hard to get it to stop shaking, but I still need to fix the bushings. Good luck
new water pump, new oxygen sensors, new fuel filter, no codes on computer scan other than misfire.
It happens when I'm stopping, and the revs go down. It sounds like the engine is choking from lack of fuel, sometimes it sounds like its drowing from too much fuel and I'll get a heavy gas smell. Please help guys, I dont know what else to do, and I just spent $400.00 on repairs.
The engine will slow RPM's, drop RPM's, stutter, turn off. and then not let me turn it on for about a minute.
The only other things I've heard on jeeps is the crank/cam shaft position sensor, and maybe the fuel pump. The car has always run extremely well, and I don't want to let it go. A non-professional opinion was a stuck lifter/valve or a stuck piston. Please help I hope it's none of the things mentioned last, but hopefully I was thinking it has to do with the fuel/air mix ratio and what controls it....which is I don't know what...
PLEASE PLEASE HELP
The latest on the situation is that I met with the head mechanic and he swore that it was the instrument cluster as he claimed that when the stalling occurred, he could "rap" the dash (near the cluster), my gauges would start to work and then the stalling went away. He would not give me a 100% guarantee that this was the problem but would give me a 99%...
They replaced the cluster with a used one yesterday and guess what ... the problem is still there... the exact same problem. They claimed to have checked all of the wiring, connections, etc and found nothing.
This is very depressing as the jeep is great outside of this issue (which is a big one).. Tomorrow, I'll be meeting with the service manager (again) and suggesting that they replace the BCM and PCM with both of these programmed to NOT enable the security system -- at Chrysler's expense.
Thanks for your suggestions ...
Then inside of the hatch door find the handle. Looking at the inside part of the door on the right-hand side you'll see a piece of threaded rod going thru a clip. It's a pretty cheesy design, but that is slipping. I fixed mine back in Jan and it's still holding, though I need to fix my wives. Though there's enough junk in there that I can't even get one of my kids to climb back there, hahahaha.
Basically, you need to move the threaded rod more to the right, thus tightening the latch assembly. The hatch isn't opening because the latch assembly is too loose. It can't hurt to WD40 or 3 in 1 oil the mechanism while your in there. Test it out before you put the back panel back on. It helps if the hatch is all cleaned out, because if it doesn't open then you can grab the threaded rod and slide it to the left and the hatch will open.
Hope this helps. Glenn |B)
The fuse will no doubt be in your fuse block. Look in your owner's manual and it will tell you where your fuse block is and which fuse you need to look at.
codes are 201, 202, 207 and 208
dealer is stumped
The car also stalls on the highway -- just seems to quit. I start to pull over, and pump the gas pedal and it seems to come back to life.
Any luck solving your problem? My dealer installed a new coil and wiring harness, but it didn't seem to help the problem.
Could it be the main computer. Another shop mentioned this, but the jeep shop hasn't.
I can bring the noise back by pushing the gearshift lever a bit.
Any suggestions?
Front/Rear Oxygen Sensors
Checked Fuel pressure on the rail
changed fuel filter
changed water pump
cleaned out throttle body
checked idle control motor relay it's still in decent working order.
I've heard someting about MAP sensors which have shaken loose of thier contacts and need to be soldered back.
Could the Idle Control Motor be bad and stall the car out only sometimes, and only when coming to a stop, idling, or in park, and twice while driving and letting go of the accelerator.
I've also heard the Vehicle-speed sensor could be the cause of the problem... guys I LOVE MY JEEP, and I've put a lot of money into it, but I never could have imagined it was going to bring me such heartache. Anyone who's fixed this problem please help me. Please let me know, I'm 19, a restaurant manager, Just getting used to adult life, and now this has been the month from H*ll. Please help guys, I need this car for work, everyday. I can't fail, and Miami public transportation has to be the worst in the WORLD.....
PLEASEEEE my mechanic watched my car stalll out on him right in front of him, while in park, and he told me theres nothing wrong with the car, because there is no code on the computer......
:'-(
Never believe your lying eyes!
tidester, host
This is what happens:
1. Put key into ignition and turn to start...starts fine
2. I check the dashboard monitor, no lights, and all gauges are normal (temp just under 210)
3. Apply foot to brake and shift from Park to either Drive or Reverse.
4. Car stalls
Car will remain remain running in Park without problems, but IMMEDIATELY shuts off when I attempt to shift from Park to another gear. I live in Wisconsin and it is 88 degrees today and the vehicle was sitting in the sun. There is a slight coolant leak but the overflow still has coolant. I tried 4 or 5 times with the same result. I then waited 30 minutes and the car started and ran fine. Does anyone know what the problem may be? I called my mechanic and he told me it could just be very overheated from my errands but the temperature gauge was showing normal. Thanks much in advance.
should I just take the bus?? and give up my jeep for good...I love it to death and I know there's a definite reason for it....something small and loose, some sensor not working correctly, a malfunctioning something or other, but I've spent $400 in the last week to not have it fixed......
Miami busses suck....
What's a Jeep lover to do?
We're a bit upside down in the loan and thinking about getting rid of it, but would hang onto it if we were confident this could be fixed.
Any suggestions? And does anyone have a reliable mechanic that won't rip us off in Rhode Island?
I had a similar experience, spent all kinds of $$ at the dealer, only to almost get cut in two while leaving the dealer's lot when it stalled in the middle of two lanes of traffic after the expensive repairs (including complete tune up, wiring harness, fuel injector work...) because all that they did, DID NOT correct my problem. I brought it to a local small repair shop in my town and explained the situation. He asked that I leave it with him while I was at work that day and come back for it that night - he had an idea. My wallet was almost empty after what I had just paid for the other worthless repairs, so I was hesitant to leave it without having some idea of what he had in mind. He told me to trust him, if he was right in his thinking, it would not be an expensive fix. So, it swallowed hard and put my trust in him. When I returned later that afternoon I asked how things went and what I owed. He told me I didn't owe anything yet, drive it for a couple days and let him know if it was any better. I told him I would know when I Ieft his driveway if I was all set, as it would not idle well and would almost always stall while waiting to pull into traffic. I got in the car, started it up and headed for home. I couldn't believe it!!!! The car never hesitated, never shuttered, never stalled....it ran smoothly from that point forward. What was the fix? He disconnected the EGR valve (where I live they do not check emissions on that year vehicle so he didn't go to the expense of replacing) and put a screw in to block air from entering the line. It ran great!!! I was so grateful and happy, and he only charged me $15.00!!!!!!! I still to this day can remember how great it felt to have the problem solved and my Jeep running reliably again. Not sure this is what your problem is, but it sounds similar. May be worth a try. Good luck.
I posted an apology a while ago. I was going by a comment in my repair manual which showed the drain hose on a '99 (I own a '98) and mistook the coolant drain hose for the A\C drain hose.
Grab a flash light and look inside your passenger side framerail. Better yet, get inside the Jeep and pull up the carpet and find it that way.
I have never had that problem on my '98 so I don't really feel like taking my vehicle apart to find a problem that doesn't exist for me.