You negotiated the price of the car, then gave them back a bunch on the warranty! The good news is you can cancel it within 60 days for a full refund - you should do so right away (and buy from a discount from an online dealer). If you financed the HC warranty in with the car - assuming you financed the car - the refund will go back to the bank/finance company. Some will reduce your loan amount and thus your payment, some will apply it to the back end of the loan (so you pay the same payment, just fewer of them).
The current prices from Bernardi Honda Care online at this link are:
7 years/100,000 miles $0 deductible = $746.00 7 years/120,000 miles warranty $0 deductible = $846.00 8 years/100,000 miles warranty $0 deductible = $826.00 8 years/120,000 miles warranty $0 deductible = $926.00
Note that these DO NOT include "All service until 60,000 miles" - but the 7/120k/$0 is $929 cheaper than what you paid. No way should routine service cost anything close to that. I don't have an Accord owner's manual handy, but IIRC the normal oil and filter change interval in the book is 10k miles (if not rough duty) and you may have to change the air and cabin filters once in 60k - probably nothing else. Check your book for the service schedule - even at high dealer service prices I can't see anything close to $929 worth of work needed.
At lease end, you can compare the buy out price VS the current value of the car and perhaps SELL it to a dealership or a private party and make a little money. In most states you will need to go THROUGH a dealership if selling to an individual to avoid double taxes - which can add a little bit to your cost. So far I have been able to sell all of my lease cars and not had to turn ANY of them in. Accords hold good value, so it is possible you might be able to take a few bucks in 36 months....
I live in Northern Ca and I going to buy a car in the next couple of days, if you can let me know what dealer gave you that deal I might just go buy one today or tomorrow. Thanks in advance.
In case anyone is interested, I received two emails today from College Park Honda, in College Park, MD, stating that they were willing to beat any legitimate offers on Accords. This was good until the end of the month. Guess they haven't made their monthly quota yet.
Thanks.. I will cancel both the extended warranty and Service until 60,000 miles...
I have checked in the manual.. it all says what Maintenance Minder display means.. but doent specify the mileage intervals. So I thought 5000 mile oil change intervals so for 60,000 I get 12 oil changes ( roughly 360 dollars) and then the 30,000 and 60,000 would cost me abt 500 dollars..
but looks like it doesnt calculate that way...So I will call the dealer and get them cancelled.I just read the cancellation policy and I do have a 60 day period and its only 3 days that I bought the car.
Do you know what would be the approximate service costs until 60,000 mile.. it would have been nice if Honda gave approx.Mileage intervals and Maintenance minder Codes A,B,1,2,3,4,5.
The probably wouldn't give you the 60K service anyway, since they will call the warranty expired at that point. The maintenance minder won't recommend 5K oil changes unless you do mostly city driving, so you won't even get 12 free oil changes out of it in 60K miles.
Like jaxs1 said, I think the minder will come on closer to 10k miles than 5k miles so may have only received 5-7 changes in 60k.
If you want the extended warranty, be sure to buy before you hit 6k on the new car - that is when the coverage choices are the most and the prices the least. Contrary to what some dealers will tell you, you can buy HondaCare for your car several times so don't let the fact that you had it and cancelled stop you from buying a new, discounted policy if you want one.
Talking about the minder....we have customers who drive city mostly that lights dont come on till around 7k hwy drivers anywhere from 10-12k and unless you plan on keeping the vehicle for a LONG time most VSC's are not worth much...the only one that is really good is something like INTIRE. anyone can use that from the day you drive off in the car
You may include the dealership name, city and state in your post. Please do not post names of salespeople, telephone numbers, email addresses, or other contact information.
I can tell a dealer in Alaska is having good sales...what good will it do for you until you tell us your location and how far you can go to save a few hundred dollars...
Post your location and if it is near to my place, I can recommend you a dealer...I got a good price.. 2007 Accord SE AT out the door around $19,9xx...( With taxe rate of 3.17)...
I received an offer 2 1/2 weeks ago on an 07 EXL Sedan of 22282 plus TTL in MD, our tax rate is 5%(which would be 1114.10). This is slightly lower than your offer. You have some room to deal.
I'm in Northern California, am very curious about an 06 or 07 Accord Coupe EX-L V6 w/navi and will hopefully be purchasing with cash within the next two weeks. Any assistance, guidance or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to pay under 30k when all is said and done.
A friend is looking at an 07 Accord I4 EX-L sedan with auto. From Swope in Louisville I got him a price of invoice ($23,165.78) for the car including destination and dealer fees. From Hennessy in GA I got $22,607 for the car with dest and dealer fees included.
I have no idea what your taxes, tags, and title fees are so I have no idea what your OTD price means. Get a break down of what goes into the quotes and compare the cost of the car w/dest and dealer fees with the numbers I posted (one is invoice) and see how your price stacks up. Then you will know if you are getting a great deal or not.
vsa= vehicle service contract INTIRE= warranty that covers the tires and wheels of your car no matter what happens to them or how many tires you go thru
One big misconception I see on here while hanging in the background is that a lot of people consider the invoice prices posted on this and other websites is the same as dealer cost. Keep in mind that "invoice" still includes anywhere from 450-2500 dollars worth of holdback or "profit" for the dealer. thats why invoice prices vary from dealer to dealer. Even if they show you a sheet with all the prices and invoice in big bold letters...if you buy at the invoice plus taxes you still left money on the table. Look for dealers who offer pricing at DEALER COST..or at least very close to it
Then they will say the have regional ad fees that don't appear in the invoice cost. So, I think the advertsing fees and dealer holdbacks may about cancel each other out.
LOL that is a game some dealerships play...but not all of them. Look hard enough though and you will find some dealers that give you dealer cost numbers without any games played...I bought from one and now work for them!! They actually spend less money on advertising than the top 7 spending dealerships in our area but are still number 1 in honda sales in their region. Even if they give you the "ad cost" line that has nothing to do with your car price...that money comes from honda themselves or from other things - not just from the money made off of the vehicle itself. Good luck in your buying and if I can help you guys in any way let me know. It seems like there are a lot of good people on here with good info - Dennis seems to know his stuff...good job!
1. I can offer you the New 2007 Honda Accord Coupe Ex-L V-6 W/ Navigation for $25,499.00. * This price includes a full tank of fuel, and a professional, caring, hassle-free delivery.
Does delivery refer to them bringing it to me?
I'm new to this and these prices are blowing me away.
At a lot of dealerships hold back is considered "sacred" and they will not deal down into it. Edmunds is a good resource for the amount of hold back by brand - for example with Honda it is 3% of MSRP. So on a $20,000 car that is $600, $30,000 car it is $900. So you can see as you get into more expensive cars it really does add up. Often folks will say "I don't understand how they could sell so cheap" because the buyer does not take into account factory to dealer money (also shown on Edmunds, but often they miss some incentives) or the hold back.
In most cases, getting a deal at or near invoice (less rebates and all known dealer incentives) is "good enough" for most folks to have a great deal - and you are THOUSANDS under MSRP and/or what a lot of folks pay. If you get a deal like that on a current model that is popular or fairly popular then go ahead and take it. On a left over car or something the dealers just can't sell (my RX-8, for example) then you may find more than one dealer who will deal into the hold back.
Keep in mind the dealers DO have to make some profit from some source and they can't really give everyone a car for true dealer cost.
The invoice on either the manual or auto is $27,165 for a v6 coupe EX-L with NAV.
Even if you subtract all of the 3% of MSRP hold back from the invoice price ($902) you get $26,263 for dealer cost. There is/was a $1,250 dealer incentive for left over 06 coupes and I heard (but never confirmed) a $500 incentive on 07 Accords. Even with those the quote you got seems to be an "impossible" number.
So what I think: they "forgot" to include the $595 destination fee in the price and they "forgot" to include some high dealer prep or doc fees in the price. Either that or they made a mistake (quoted you I4 or non-NAV or both) or you have a trade in they are giving you under value on.
I would ask for a price that included the car, destination, and all dealer prep and doc fees - and let us know what that number is. You can get an "out the door" price from them as well, but you will have to know your sales tax rates, tag rates, etc in order to figure out what you are paying for the car.
"Delivery" is you picking up the car. The "delivery" is the experience of them showing you the car, signing the paperwork, etc. Some dealers will deliver to folks within a certain radius for fee - but they will have someone drive your new car and put miles on it before you get to. All should "deliver" the car to anyone within a reasonable distance for a fee.
I do agree that dealerships have to make money somewhere but the best thing to do is locate a VOLUME dealer. You can not be a GROSS dealer and be a VOLUME dealer.
I would say to all just do your research on who moves the most cars in your area and who ranks highest among people who have purchased from that place before. If people return to the same dealer many times to buy a car...that accounts for a lot. As in our case a lot of income that is not made on the initial sale or financing of a vehicle is made up for in the amount of cars sold and the service of those vehicles. It is possible to get ...say...an accord (any model)at or 100-300 over dealer cost as long as you choose the right dealer. ESPECIALLY if they have a lot of that particular model.
Even if they dont beat every other dealers price (you can go back and forth 50 bucks forever) Take into account the overall facility, the service department (like the techs working there...how much experience do they have and how happy are they working there?) How well does the place seem to be managed and how much turnover do they have.
All of those factors plus many more should come into account when purchasing a car...not just price!!
We know the destination ($595), what is the doc fee at these dealers? If they get $600 or something then their low ball price does not mean much.
The 06 has/had a $1,250 dealer incentive on it - they may have increased it now. If they are willing to sell you an 07 so cheap I would not bother with the 06 at all. The 07 will likely always be worth at least $1k more YEARS from now and shorter term will be worth about $2k more.
I almost never buy from the dealer that is going to service the car. I go where I can get the best deal. When I HAVE return for service where I purchased I was treat no better or worse than at dealers that had no stake in SELLING me the car. So I would not worry about the "overall facility" of the selling dealership - just get the best price. Then ask folks which dealership does their service work and go with the one that everyone seems to like. Quite often (for me) the selling dealership is hundreds of miles from home and they will never see me again
I do agree that worrying over $50 or even a few hundred on a $20k or $30k or even $49 transaction is silly. While there may be some dealership somewhere that will give you a little better price, use common sense about it - and don't drive for hours and hours to save $200. Or sit and "argue" price in the dealership for longer than a few minutes. If they give you a good enough price then buy, if not find someone who will. If they are thousands off your target price you are pretty much wasting your time trying to get the price dropped enough to make you happy.
High volume dealerships normally are the ones that give the best deals. They can afford to let a few low profit deals go through since they sell so much - and the cars never sit on the lot long enough for any floor plan interest to effect the bottom line cost of the car.
I just bought my 07 Accord. There are a tough competitions among dealers around bay area. So send out quote request to more than 10 dealers(I did almost 20) and let them compete. Different dealer has different promotion time, you never know who sells cheapest next week. So search widely. Good luck.
I can't agree more! If car shoppers are easily set at invoice, dealers can make profit beyond their holdbacks. Region is another big factor for car pricing. Big cities can support many dealers with high sales volume, which in turn gain them higher manufacturer cash back and lower their cost. I bought my Accord in bay area (around 20 dealers within 100 miles) $1500 below invoice, but I don't believe that is the rock bottom of dealers' cost. They still make money.
If you can pass on the dealership name and salesperson contact info it would be helpful. Your price seems to be very good. I am planning to buy 2007 accord at se and I live in north california...
Check out this response. I'm dealing with an internet rep that was working from home today:
I can't give you the tax and license fee's because I don't have access to my finance screens from home, but if you figure 10% of the selling price its usually pretty close. The destination fee, which is (if you read farther down on the quote isn't part of the initial quote) is $595.00, and then plus the tax and license fee's, so if you take the initial quote, add the $595.00 and take 10% of that, you will be pretty close to what the out the door price would be.
[..]
I can offer you the New 2007 Honda Accord Coupe Ex-L V-6 W/ Navigation for $25,499.00. * This price includes a full tank of fuel, and a professional, caring, hassle-free delivery.
[..]
*ALL QUOTED PRICES ARE PLUS DESTINATION CHARGE, ANY DEALER INSTALLED ACCESSORIES, DOC FEE, STATE TAX AND DMV FEES.
It obviously sounds as if she omitted the mentioning the doc fee in the first paragraph quoted above and I'm going to clarify it with her tomorrow morning.
You may include the dealership name, city and state in your post. Please do not post names of salespeople, telephone numbers, email addresses, or other contact information.
I hate it when you have to pull the info from them - like pulling teeth. It makes me think they have something to hide, and they usually do .
Just try to get the offer pinned down to car+dest+dealer fees since all the other stuff will be the same no matter where you buy the car. You can also google up CA car sales tax info, I bet. You may already know how much tags are out there. Here you go, a CA DMV fee and tax calculator at this link.
I put in $26,500 for a selling price (figuring they have going to hit you with $500 or so in dealer fees) and it came up:
Current Registration: 31.00 Current California Highway Patrol: 9.00 Current Vehicle License Fee: 172.00 Current County Service Authority for Freeway Emergencies Fee: 1.00 Current Fingerprint ID Fee: 1.00 Current Auto Theft and/or DUI Crime Deterrence Program: 1.00 Current Abandoned Vehicle Fee: 1.00 Current Air Quality Management District: 6.00 Use/Sales Tax: 1,921.00 City Vehicle Use/Sales Tax: 133.00 Reflectorized License Plate Fee: 1.00
Total Registration Fees: $223.00
Total Use/Sales Tax: $2,054.00
Grand Total Registration Fees: $2,277.00
Put in other numbers to make it more accurate - and it may be less if you are transferring a plate, etc.
that's a great price for the coupe. anyone have any good prices on the v6 sedan ex-l with nav? i got a 1st time online quote for $26 225, for an '07. i'm guessing i might do a bit better, but not much. i'd be happy with an '06 for 23k if that's possible.
Have you tried using carsdirect.com, autos.yahoo.com and the like? There is another too (probably more) that I used, and that's how I ended up getting these prices.
If all goes as planned I'll go down tomorrow afternoon to pick mine up.
But, get this. There is a dealer that is closer to me than the other three that I've been negotiating with, far closer. But, they only have 2006 coupes on the lot. Getting the salesman to look into acquiring an '07 for me has been like pulling teeth. I told the guy, I'm buying this week, with cash and haven't been running him around but it sure doesn't seem like he wants to make a sale. I'll give him one more shot tomorrow morning just becuase it would be so much more convienent for me.
If they have an 06 you like you SHOULD be able to get a smoking deal on it. Last time I looked the left over coupe had a $1,250 dealer incentive on them. They may have increased that now to help move them out.
Of course, any dealer that has several 06 models still on the lot in November is likely one that will not deal low enough on price. The low dealing dealers I talk with from time to time always seem to run out of cars before the next model year begins. The ones that will not deal still have last years cars on the lot well into the next model year. For example, my local dealers will not deal on the S2000 "we do not discount that car". The dealer in KY that sold me my 05 (for under invoice) sold me their last red S for the model year - in June or July. When I was at a local dealer months later for an oil change they still had 5-6 05 S2000s on the lot and a couple of 06 models. See what happens when they do not deal?
I ran into a snag with my purchase today. El Cerrito Honda does not accept the draft "powercheck" from HSBC so I will instead be purchasing my coupe from another dealer in the East Bay through carsdirect.com.
Most folks can't or will not wait that long. That is true of just about any car for any model year. In theory: You wait as long as you can while the prices drop and hope the dealer still has what you want when the price gets to a certain point. The trouble is, the dealers that will deal low on price are not likely to have any thing left to sell by then. The dealers that DO have stock may not make you as good a deal as you could have gotten months before at a better dealer.
Yes the model re-do may make the year end a little better this year, but what if folks do not like the re-do or the price goes up? We just do not know.
It is very likely if you just waiting until the first of the year you could do a little better than now. Wait a little long and do a little better. But we are only talking a few hundred at the most. So if you have a nice car to drive now and want to wait and take a chance on saving a little money - go for it. One advantage of waiting is if YOU like the re-do a lot more, then wait a bit longer for sales to cool and just get the 08.
Swope did not want to accept my daughter's CapitalOne check either - they had gotten burned on some of the "draft" checks as well. Once they looked it over and we had C1 fax then a note saying it was "guaranteed" they accepted it. We challenged them to match of beat the C1 rate with AHFC and they could not.
Invoice on the I4 is $19,458 includes the destination fee. So if they will sell you that 07 for $18,580 for the car and destination - and NOT charge you a huge "dealer fee" then that is a good deal.
For my money, the SE is the sweet spot in the lineup and I would try to get a similar deal on the I4 AT SE sedan. Invoice is $20,088 or $630 more than the LX. That buys alloy wheels, rear disc brakes, 6 disc in-dash CD changer, and steering wheel audio controls. WELL worth the $630 extra to me.
Of course, they may be giving you this smoking price on the LX since they have trouble selling them and will not give you a similar price on the SE. But I would ask - and pin them down on the dealer fees as well.
There must be some CA incentive to dealers going on now, this is another too good to be true CA deal posted recently.
Comments
The current prices from Bernardi Honda Care online at this link are:
7 years/100,000 miles $0 deductible = $746.00
7 years/120,000 miles warranty $0 deductible = $846.00
8 years/100,000 miles warranty $0 deductible = $826.00
8 years/120,000 miles warranty $0 deductible = $926.00
Note that these DO NOT include "All service until 60,000 miles" - but the 7/120k/$0 is $929 cheaper than what you paid. No way should routine service cost anything close to that. I don't have an Accord owner's manual handy, but IIRC the normal oil and filter change interval in the book is 10k miles (if not rough duty) and you may have to change the air and cabin filters once in 60k - probably nothing else. Check your book for the service schedule - even at high dealer service prices I can't see anything close to $929 worth of work needed.
Dennis
At lease end, you can compare the buy out price VS the current value of the car and perhaps SELL it to a dealership or a private party and make a little money. In most states you will need to go THROUGH a dealership if selling to an individual to avoid double taxes - which can add a little bit to your cost. So far I have been able to sell all of my lease cars and not had to turn ANY of them in. Accords hold good value, so it is possible you might be able to take a few bucks in 36 months....
Dennis
Thanks in advance.
Thanks.. I will cancel both the extended warranty and Service until 60,000 miles...
I have checked in the manual.. it all says what Maintenance Minder display means.. but doent specify the mileage intervals. So I thought 5000 mile oil change intervals so for 60,000 I get 12 oil changes ( roughly 360 dollars) and then the 30,000 and 60,000 would cost me abt 500 dollars..
but looks like it doesnt calculate that way...So I will call the dealer and get them cancelled.I just read the cancellation policy and I do have a 60 day period and its only 3 days that I bought the car.
Do you know what would be the approximate service costs until 60,000 mile.. it would have been nice if Honda gave approx.Mileage intervals and Maintenance minder Codes A,B,1,2,3,4,5.
neways.. thanks..
The maintenance minder won't recommend 5K oil changes unless you do mostly city driving, so you won't even get 12 free oil changes out of it in 60K miles.
If you want the extended warranty, be sure to buy before you hit 6k on the new car - that is when the coverage choices are the most and the prices the least. Contrary to what some dealers will tell you, you can buy HondaCare for your car several times so don't let the fact that you had it and cancelled stop you from buying a new, discounted policy if you want one.
Dennis
I dont understand when you say VSC and INTIRE???
1- 07' Accord EX-LEATHER , 4 dr, 4 cyl > out the door $25,000 is it a reasonable price ..what is the lowest price do ya get out there..thanksss
2- 06' Accord EX same option but NO LEATHER for $22,500 out the door .
....ok., which one will be my best choices ....thankx..
Thanks,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
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Post your location and if it is near to my place, I can recommend you a dealer...I got a good price.. 2007 Accord SE AT out the door around $19,9xx...( With taxe rate of 3.17)...
I have no idea what your taxes, tags, and title fees are so I have no idea what your OTD price means. Get a break down of what goes into the quotes and compare the cost of the car w/dest and dealer fees with the numbers I posted (one is invoice) and see how your price stacks up. Then you will know if you are getting a great deal or not.
Dennis
Does delivery refer to them bringing it to me?
I'm new to this and these prices are blowing me away.
In most cases, getting a deal at or near invoice (less rebates and all known dealer incentives) is "good enough" for most folks to have a great deal - and you are THOUSANDS under MSRP and/or what a lot of folks pay. If you get a deal like that on a current model that is popular or fairly popular then go ahead and take it. On a left over car or something the dealers just can't sell (my RX-8, for example) then you may find more than one dealer who will deal into the hold back.
Keep in mind the dealers DO have to make some profit from some source and they can't really give everyone a car for true dealer cost.
Dennis
Even if you subtract all of the 3% of MSRP hold back from the invoice price ($902) you get $26,263 for dealer cost. There is/was a $1,250 dealer incentive for left over 06 coupes and I heard (but never confirmed) a $500 incentive on 07 Accords. Even with those the quote you got seems to be an "impossible" number.
So what I think: they "forgot" to include the $595 destination fee in the price and they "forgot" to include some high dealer prep or doc fees in the price. Either that or they made a mistake (quoted you I4 or non-NAV or both) or you have a trade in they are giving you under value on.
I would ask for a price that included the car, destination, and all dealer prep and doc fees - and let us know what that number is. You can get an "out the door" price from them as well, but you will have to know your sales tax rates, tag rates, etc in order to figure out what you are paying for the car.
"Delivery" is you picking up the car. The "delivery" is the experience of them showing you the car, signing the paperwork, etc. Some dealers will deliver to folks within a certain radius for fee - but they will have someone drive your new car and put miles on it before you get to. All should "deliver" the car to anyone within a reasonable distance for a fee.
Dennis
From the same dealer: "I can offer you the New 2006 Honda Accord Coupe Ex-L V-6 W/ Navigation for $23,899.00. - $23,899.00."
Another dealer gave me 23,957.57.
What do you think? $1500 between the 06 and 07 is not a big difference and it seems that I could make that back on the trade in.
If my back would cooperate I'd be going to get my new coupe today!
I would say to all just do your research on who moves the most cars in your area and who ranks highest among people who have purchased from that place before. If people return to the same dealer many times to buy a car...that accounts for a lot. As in our case a lot of income that is not made on the initial sale or financing of a vehicle is made up for in the amount of cars sold and the service of those vehicles. It is possible to get ...say...an accord (any model)at or 100-300 over dealer cost as long as you choose the right dealer. ESPECIALLY if they have a lot of that particular model.
Even if they dont beat every other dealers price (you can go back and forth 50 bucks forever) Take into account the overall facility, the service department (like the techs working there...how much experience do they have and how happy are they working there?) How well does the place seem to be managed and how much turnover do they have.
All of those factors plus many more should come into account when purchasing a car...not just price!!
Chris
The 06 has/had a $1,250 dealer incentive on it - they may have increased it now. If they are willing to sell you an 07 so cheap I would not bother with the 06 at all. The 07 will likely always be worth at least $1k more YEARS from now and shorter term will be worth about $2k more.
Dennis
I do agree that worrying over $50 or even a few hundred on a $20k or $30k or even $49 transaction is silly. While there may be some dealership somewhere that will give you a little better price, use common sense about it - and don't drive for hours and hours to save $200. Or sit and "argue" price in the dealership for longer than a few minutes. If they give you a good enough price then buy, if not find someone who will. If they are thousands off your target price you are pretty much wasting your time trying to get the price dropped enough to make you happy.
High volume dealerships normally are the ones that give the best deals. They can afford to let a few low profit deals go through since they sell so much - and the cars never sit on the lot long enough for any floor plan interest to effect the bottom line cost of the car.
Dennis
Check out this response. I'm dealing with an internet rep that was working from home today:
I can't give you the tax and license fee's because I don't have access to my finance screens from home, but if you figure 10% of the selling price its usually pretty close. The destination fee, which is (if you read farther down on the quote isn't part of the initial quote) is $595.00, and then plus the tax and license fee's, so if you take the initial quote, add the $595.00 and take 10% of that, you will be pretty close to what the out the door price would be.
[..]
I can offer you the New 2007 Honda Accord Coupe Ex-L V-6 W/ Navigation for $25,499.00. * This price includes a full tank of fuel, and a professional, caring, hassle-free delivery.
[..]
*ALL QUOTED PRICES ARE PLUS DESTINATION CHARGE, ANY DEALER INSTALLED ACCESSORIES, DOC FEE, STATE TAX AND DMV FEES.
It obviously sounds as if she omitted the mentioning the doc fee in the first paragraph quoted above and I'm going to clarify it with her tomorrow morning.
- Dan
Thanks,
kyfdx
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Just try to get the offer pinned down to car+dest+dealer fees since all the other stuff will be the same no matter where you buy the car. You can also google up CA car sales tax info, I bet. You may already know how much tags are out there. Here you go, a CA DMV fee and tax calculator at this link.
I put in $26,500 for a selling price (figuring they have going to hit you with $500 or so in dealer fees) and it came up:
Current Registration: 31.00
Current California Highway Patrol: 9.00
Current Vehicle License Fee: 172.00
Current County Service Authority for Freeway Emergencies Fee: 1.00
Current Fingerprint ID Fee: 1.00
Current Auto Theft and/or DUI Crime Deterrence Program: 1.00
Current Abandoned Vehicle Fee: 1.00
Current Air Quality Management District: 6.00
Use/Sales Tax: 1,921.00
City Vehicle Use/Sales Tax: 133.00
Reflectorized License Plate Fee: 1.00
Total Registration Fees: $223.00
Total Use/Sales Tax: $2,054.00
Grand Total Registration Fees: $2,277.00
Put in other numbers to make it more accurate - and it may be less if you are transferring a plate, etc.
Dennis
This is Oct 06 Oct 05 change YTD 06 YTD 05 Change
Accord 23,645 26,977 -8.8% 302,067 319,375 -5.4%
The Camry is taking up the slack - and outselling the Accord by a good bit:
CAMRY 33,812 32,323 8.8 374,717 368,672 1.6
Just food for thought....
Dennis
Thanks for the link that is great.
thanks
If all goes as planned I'll go down tomorrow afternoon to pick mine up.
But, get this. There is a dealer that is closer to me than the other three that I've been negotiating with, far closer. But, they only have 2006 coupes on the lot. Getting the salesman to look into acquiring an '07 for me has been like pulling teeth. I told the guy, I'm buying this week, with cash and haven't been running him around but it sure doesn't seem like he wants to make a sale. I'll give him one more shot tomorrow morning just becuase it would be so much more convienent for me.
Of course, any dealer that has several 06 models still on the lot in November is likely one that will not deal low enough on price. The low dealing dealers I talk with from time to time always seem to run out of cars before the next model year begins. The ones that will not deal still have last years cars on the lot well into the next model year. For example, my local dealers will not deal on the S2000 "we do not discount that car". The dealer in KY that sold me my 05 (for under invoice) sold me their last red S for the model year - in June or July. When I was at a local dealer months later for an oil change they still had 5-6 05 S2000s on the lot and a couple of 06 models. See what happens when they do not deal?
Dennis
There will be awesome deals out there on all Accords because of the change for the 08's.
I ran into a snag with my purchase today. El Cerrito Honda does not accept the draft "powercheck" from HSBC so I will instead be purchasing my coupe from another dealer in the East Bay through carsdirect.com.
Yes the model re-do may make the year end a little better this year, but what if folks do not like the re-do or the price goes up? We just do not know.
It is very likely if you just waiting until the first of the year you could do a little better than now. Wait a little long and do a little better. But we are only talking a few hundred at the most. So if you have a nice car to drive now and want to wait and take a chance on saving a little money - go for it. One advantage of waiting is if YOU like the re-do a lot more, then wait a bit longer for sales to cool and just get the 08.
Dennis
Dennis
Invoice on the I4 is $19,458 includes the destination fee. So if they will sell you that 07 for $18,580 for the car and destination - and NOT charge you a huge "dealer fee" then that is a good deal.
For my money, the SE is the sweet spot in the lineup and I would try to get a similar deal on the I4 AT SE sedan. Invoice is $20,088 or $630 more than the LX. That buys alloy wheels, rear disc brakes, 6 disc in-dash CD changer, and steering wheel audio controls. WELL worth the $630 extra to me.
Of course, they may be giving you this smoking price on the LX since they have trouble selling them and will not give you a similar price on the SE. But I would ask - and pin them down on the dealer fees as well.
There must be some CA incentive to dealers going on now, this is another too good to be true CA deal posted recently.
Dennis