Thanks for the feedback Ralph. I do feel really good about the deal. Most dealers in my area (Virginia) start high and move down slightly. All of the other quotes I received were $500 or more above invoice w/o the destination charge. The NAV is a popular option in these parts and dealers can command a premium. My personal take is that the Honda NAV beats alot of after market NAVs.
19130.37 Price of vehicle includes destination 1339.13 State sales tax 7.50 Tire fee 234.00 Registration/Title fee 289.00 Document fee 21000.00 Total (Cash deal/No financing)
I know it wasn't the lowest possible price but the transaction was very quick and painless. 2 emails, 1 phone call and done. And as I mentioned before, no other dealer could match their price.
In fact, I gave Garden State Honda (I am currently leasing an 06 Pilot EX AWD through them) a chance to beat or match the price but was told they could not.
That is a lower quote than I received from that dealership. They gave me a quote of $20,000.00 plus TT&L so no I'm not joking. They claimed that price was 88.00 less than invoice with the $595.00 destination charge. Needless to say I chose to pass on that offer.
I am having difficulty getting an out the door price from them. they keep telling me it varies with "options", even when i told them i don't want anything extra.
Do you think they get upset if I keep going back and forth between 2 or 3 dealers?
Masterp...i am also going back & forth between 2-3 dealers. Don't worry if a dealer gets upset. Just stick to your guns on the price. Say this is the price i am willing to pay...out the door.
Flash, Good luck with your new vehicle. It sounds like a beauty and once you are satisfied that you've gotten the best price in your area, you enter the enjoyment phase of the process. I wouldn't worry about someone else in Montana getting a better deal because it's really immaterial. I never have understood why people have to ask if they got a good deal on a vehicle that they just purchased. Take care. Ralph
No,price of the car including destination. OTD differs from state to state. Your taxes may be different from mine here in Texas.
One thing I liked about Gunn is that they emailed me the OTD price and broke it down line by line so I knew what I was paying for. And no,they did not have the phony profit making $500.00 doc fee........There doc fee is $50.00.
Current program (per Edmunds) is $249/mo with $1,699 at inception. Have not dealt with Honda dealers before. I'm in Philadelphia, PA area. Will they negotiate the lease. I've leased a number of Chrysler Corp vehicles and, typically, dealers knock off at least $1,000 of the up front money. Can I expect this from Honda dealers?
Documentation fees are just more profit for the dealer. In some states these are fixed or limited. In other states (like mine) the sky is the limited. We have them from $50 up to $500 and more. So you THINK you are negotiating a good deal then they stick the fee on top of the deal. So when getting a quote I always get the price for the car with destination and any dealer or doc fees included. My taxes, title, and tag fees are the same no matter where I buy the car - so I need to know the dealer's price for the other stuff. A lot of dealers will make cheap phone or internet quotes and leave out the doc fee and some will leave out the fee AND not include the destination charge in the deal! So they draw you in with a low price, then add both to the price and it is instantly a bad deal - but they got you on the lot and maybe in the F&I office.
Some states have other fees they charge - like the NJ tire fee or lemon law fees. If you buy a car from an out of state dealer you may not have to pay these.
Since you are in GA, check online with Hennessy in Woodstock, GA . They do have a hefty dealer fee, but the NET price from them is usually the lowest around.
You do the lease deal like you were paying cash or financing - you negotiate the price of the new car first, then the trade (if you have one), then do the financing.
You should be able to get most Accord models for about invoice (including destination and dealer fees) from a good dealer. The pre-figured lease deals currently require a discount off of MSRP (i.e. "dealer participation"). Getting the car at invoice just means less out of pocket and/or lower payments.
The lease money factor and residual are fixed and are the same for all with good credit, so the lower you get them to deal on price the less you pay for the lease.
The SE is the sweet spot in the Accord line up. For the I4 the extra money ($629 at invoice) buys you 4 alloy wheels, rear disc brakes, electronic brake-force distribution, wheel mounted audio and cruise controls w/illumination, and some trim bits.
The brake upgrades alone would be worth the extra - should you ever need them during a panic stop. The steering wheel mounted controls would sure be nice and price out 16" alloy wheels at retail. A LOT of stuff for $629 extra.
Note that the I4 LX now comes standard with the 6 disc in-dash changer, so that is not an extra in the SE package now.
Thanks Dennis for the input. I see that if i go with the SE, it's almost coming close to the price of a V6, or am i getting wrong numbers? there's the urge to keep bumping up just a leeetle bit more, saying "just a couple hundred more can get me this and that.." i've gone from VP --> LX --> Se -_> lookin at the V6... hehe but then i look back and think "wow, there's a 4K difference between that V6 and the VP "
You can check the invoice numbers here at edmunds and see. What most folks say - and I agree - is to drive the I4 Accord and see how you like it. Unless you think it feels underpowered then there is little need to spend the extra money for the V-6 model. Costs more now, costs a little more at the pump too. The V-6 models do offer stability control which is a good thing - but is almost never needed in a FWD car as it can be nearly impossible to make them spin around.
Yes, the stair-step approach to what to buy can get you into trouble with cars and about anything else . You can buy an MP3 player for $100, but for a little more get a 2gb ipod nano, for a little more than that you can get the 4gb nano, but now you are close to the price of the 30gb video ipod, so might as well get that, but the 80gb video is just a little more and offers tons more storage so you get that. So went (logically?) from a $100 MP3 player to a $349 ipod in quick fashion
Dwynne, on edmonds it shows an Honda Accord SE,automatic with an invoice of $20,088. I received a quote from a car dealer..the amount out the door is $21,000. Is this considered a reasonable deal or should i go lower? Edmonds shows the (tmv)what others are paying as $21,692.
Break down the price - I have no idea what your taxes and fees are. Here, we have 7% state tax and $80 tags. Other places have lower taxes or higher tags - so OTD means nothing to me.
If you look at the price of the car including destination and dealer fees (not including tags, title, and taxes) and you are at or below invoice then you have a good deal. A couple of months back one dealer was doing the I4 SE AT sedan for $19,710 for the car with destination and dealer fees and another was/is doing it for invoice with fees included.
Your profile does not show where you are located, but these dealers are in GA and KY if that is handy for you. But I would be shocked if you could not do around invoice for this car a lots of places with a little work.
So break down your price and see how much is TTL and what you are paying for the car w/dest and dealer fees and then buy it from them if that works out to a nice price.
I just got my first quote of $22,050 (includes destination and all fees). This represents about $400 below invoice. I am beginning to contact other dealerships in the DC area now. Any suggestions on which dealers are easy to work with?
Thanks for your info. I live in Los Angeles,Ca. Tax/License should be at 8%...so approx $1,900.00. I will try and figure it out. Is the I4 SE Honda Accord the same as SE Honda Accord?
Ok, so how are we getting these below invoice? No one is giving me anything below invoice.
2nd question: say they do offer it for invoice. How can we know if they tack on all the ridiculous fees? I mean, can you just point them out and say you don't want to pay them? I worry they will give you invoice, then make it up with all these fees, and then you end up paying OVER invoice (lots over).
Masterp, what price you get probably depends upon supply and demand in your local area. In general, competition among dealers (eg. in a large metro area) will drive down prices. I find it best not to get involved in negotiations around invoice price. It is good to know invoice and incentives, but it may work better if you ask the dealer for a quote on everything inclusive of destination and all processing fees. Your state title and tax would be in addition to this number, but dealers cant manipulate that. Read through the posts here and try to find what prices others may have paid relative to the invoice on any accord in your area. Then add that number to the invoice of whatever trim you are interested in. That may give you a good benchmark number to compare the quotes you get. You can also tell the dealer that you are aware of what is a reasonable number. It may also help to focus on a shortlist of dealers that have a reputation of dealing well (thanks for this advice, Dennis). Good luck!
I researched and read all the posts in this thread and decided that 21,000 OTD was a very good price for an 07 Accord SE 4cyl. Automatic. It isn't the lowest price as I remember a couple of people paying 20,500 and 20,700 OTD.
I just asked the dealers if they can do it at that price. It didn't really matter to me what the breakdown of the numbers were because in the end it must add up to 21,000.
It wouldn't have mattered if they charged me 1,500 for document fee or 800.00 processing fee because then they would have to lower the cost of something else and it would still come to the same OTD price of 21,000.
Also, the OTD price in NJ includes registration fees for 4 years.
You know what...i am going to start at $20,500 OTD and see what happens. But i will not pay more than $21,000 TD. Thank you very much for explaining and sharing information. I will let you know.
Yes, the I4 is the 4 cylinder car as opposed to the V-6. You have to be sure you say sedan or coupe and if you are talking manual or auto transmission.
Hold back is 3% of MSRP so they make that even if they sell for invoice. Also, I think there must be some regional dealer money that Edmunds does not list since folks are posting really cheap deals and getting invoice is not a big problem.
Where are you located? Some dealers just will not deal - most in my immediate area will not - while others will. You can save a lot of time and trouble by finding a dealer that will deal. Don't be afraid to travel to get a good deal, there is no need to buy from the dealer that is going to service the car (if needed).
When you get a quote be sure to say you want the price for the car including destination and any dealer or doc fees. Then you can compare prices against invoice and see how you stand. If they try to pull any funny stuff, you just walk if they don't hold to the price they gave.
I would think some local dealer would do invoice on the car. Check around and see - try them all. Be sure the prices include destination and dealer fees. If the dealers in your area have large dealer fees then you may not be too far off.
Also, check prices at carsdirect.com using your ZIP code and see what comes up. "In theory" the price they show you is the price a dealer local to the ZIP you use as agreed to sell the car. They may charge a dealer fee on top of the price, but at least you may find a dealer with better pricing. Search through the forum here, seems like folks from AZ and etc were going to CA to get deals, right?
This evening i purchased a new 2007 Honda Accord SE, Automatic for $21,000 Out The Door. Penske Honda was great...very professinal and at the same time made me feel relaxed. Everything went smoothly. I believe i received a good price.
Thanks again to everyone who shared and gave me input.
hey, first of all, i am trying to decide whether i get a honda accord vp, or a camry CE. now i don't know what to do. i love the shape of the camry, but i know that there are some reviews about the transmission, also the accord will never give any issues as far as engine. i have seen accords with well over 350000 miles with no problem, something that i 've never seen in any other car, incl camry. can anyone tell me of a good price in both anywher in NJ, PA, or NY. i live in NJ, but i will travel if they give the invoice
As one who has driven a 2006 Accord LX, and a 2007 Camry LE, extensively, buy the Accord. I would stay clear of the Camry until they sort out the cruise control, transmission, and drive-by-wire problems that exist in the new generation. Remember, it's always dicey to buy a new model year vehicle from anyone, even Honda. The 2007 Accord is a "fully sorted out" vehicle.
Goodman Honda on I-10 just purchased a white SE w/ Automatic transmission for $20,600 OTD. Before TT&L car was $19,200. This include Lojack, fabric and paint guard. I'm pretty happy with this price. Let me know how I did....
I found a 1991 Honda Accord SE Sedan 4D on sale. It already has 148K miles on it.
What things should I check before buying and What would be the best bargain for the vehicle?
-Exterior looks ok. But the cover just behind both rear wheels have picked up some rust. I guess this very common in Accords.
- Both front seats (leather) are badly worn out. I am not sure if it worth repairing it.
- On the right rear there are some scratches. Seems it hit something, but not very badly i guess.
I just did a test ride and gathered few more information from the owner.
1. Timing belt - Never changed or repaired 2. it is has AT - Never serviced
I drove about 10-15 miles and found the ride was not smooth. I noticed low vibration while driving at 30-50 Mph. It was little smoother at 70Mph but still not very smooth.
I noticed very harsh shift when AT shifted from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. Also, when I shifted back and forth between P, R , N and D , with brakes applied, I noticed harsh shift and sometimes it took about a second or little less to change. Does that indicate problem with transmission??
The owner never changed the timing belt or water pump and never serviced transmission. So I guess I will need to change the timing belt as soon as I get it.
Also, I noticed it was much more noisy inside.
And what can we say about the condition of the vehicle ? good, fair or don't even bother looking at it ?
WOW...thats a mess waiting to happen. 140k miles and NO TIMING BELT CHANGE????? only buy this if they are just giving it away (under 2000 dollars) or you are prepared to pay the 1k-1500 dollars worth of things that will HAVE to be done before you drive it. Just my 2 cents is all...
you know how our GM can get...he's the crazy one who came in and told us the deal on wed. But you still got a great deal....especially with the trade and all....LOL. Everybody is saying this has never happened so I guess its just one of those things.
hey, first of all, i am trying to decide whether i get a honda accord vp, or a camry CE. now i don't know what to do. i love the shape of the camry, but i know that there are some reviews about the transmission, also the accord will never give any issues as far as engine. i have seen accords with well over 350000 miles with no problem, something that i 've never seen in any other car, incl camry. can anyone tell me of a good price in both anywher in NJ, PA, or NY. i live in NJ, but i will travel if they give the invoice
i am trying to buy a Honda Accord VP, LX or SE. now i don't know what to do. Can anyone tell me the difference, and the lowest price in all of them anywher in NJ, PA, or NY. i live in NJ, but i will travel if they give the invoice
Hi everyone, I'm in Bay Area, looking to buy a 2006 Accord LX Special Edition 4dr sedan by the end of the year. By edmunds.com, the invoice is $19,973 including destination charge. And there's a $750 cash to dealer. My question is, anybody could please share her/his pricing story or refer some easy-going dealer to me? I really appreciate any input. Thanks in advance! :shades:
Can you reveal which dealer? I checked Gunn Honda at San Antonio. Their One Simple Price for SE is rather high. What trick to get a better price? Thanks.
I just purchased a 2007 honda ex auto in Baltimore area. I paid 22500 for out of door price(tax is 5%). Can any one tell me it is a good deal or not? thanks.
I have received many good quotes for the manual trans EXL that I am planning to get. One of them is particularly good. But the dealership does not have any manuals at the moment, and is asking me to advance $500 for them to find one in about a week. All the good quotes have an 11/30 expiry date. I am concerned that if for whatever reason the sale does not happen I will have to start the process all over again. Are there scenarios in which it can happen, and is there any thing I can do to ensure that I dont land into one of them?
Honda could raise the price of the car starting 12/1 - or could raise or LOWER any dealer money on them. So I would think most dealers would only "guarantee" the price quote until the end of the month and not beyond. The odds are good that next month's price will be the same or better than this month's prices, I would think - but only Honda knows (I guess they decide based on how many unsold Accords they have on lots and in the pipeline).
A friend is looking at an I4 EX-L auto and has gotten quotes of invoice or $300-400 under including destination and dealer fees.
Comments
Could you let us know how is the breakdown of your cost. thanks in advance
19130.37 Price of vehicle includes destination
1339.13 State sales tax
7.50 Tire fee
234.00 Registration/Title fee
289.00 Document fee
21000.00 Total (Cash deal/No financing)
I know it wasn't the lowest possible price but the transaction was very quick and painless. 2 emails, 1 phone call and done. And as I mentioned before, no other dealer could match their price.
In fact, I gave Garden State Honda (I am currently leasing an 06 Pilot EX AWD through them) a chance to beat or match the price but was told they could not.
Good luck!
I am having difficulty getting an out the door price from them. they keep telling me it varies with "options", even when i told them i don't want anything extra.
Do you think they get upset if I keep going back and forth between 2 or 3 dealers?
The $19,592 price for the SE Honda Accord,automatic...was that an Out The Door Price??
Joe
One thing I liked about Gunn is that they emailed me the OTD price and broke it down line by line so I knew what I was paying for. And no,they did not have the phony profit making $500.00 doc fee........There doc fee is $50.00.
Some states have other fees they charge - like the NJ tire fee or lemon law fees. If you buy a car from an out of state dealer you may not have to pay these.
Since you are in GA, check online with Hennessy in Woodstock, GA . They do have a hefty dealer fee, but the NET price from them is usually the lowest around.
Dennis
You should be able to get most Accord models for about invoice (including destination and dealer fees) from a good dealer. The pre-figured lease deals currently require a discount off of MSRP (i.e. "dealer participation"). Getting the car at invoice just means less out of pocket and/or lower payments.
The lease money factor and residual are fixed and are the same for all with good credit, so the lower you get them to deal on price the less you pay for the lease.
Dennis
The brake upgrades alone would be worth the extra - should you ever need them during a panic stop. The steering wheel mounted controls would sure be nice and price out 16" alloy wheels at retail. A LOT of stuff for $629 extra.
Note that the I4 LX now comes standard with the 6 disc in-dash changer, so that is not an extra in the SE package now.
Dennis
I see that if i go with the SE, it's almost coming close to the price of a V6, or am i getting wrong numbers?
there's the urge to keep bumping up just a leeetle bit more, saying "just a couple hundred more can get me this and that.." i've gone from VP --> LX --> Se -_> lookin at the V6... hehe but then i look back and think "wow, there's a 4K difference between that V6 and the VP "
Yes, the stair-step approach to what to buy can get you into trouble with cars and about anything else
Dennis
Joe
If you look at the price of the car including destination and dealer fees (not including tags, title, and taxes) and you are at or below invoice then you have a good deal. A couple of months back one dealer was doing the I4 SE AT sedan for $19,710 for the car with destination and dealer fees and another was/is doing it for invoice with fees included.
Your profile does not show where you are located, but these dealers are in GA and KY if that is handy for you. But I would be shocked if you could not do around invoice for this car a lots of places with a little work.
So break down your price and see how much is TTL and what you are paying for the car w/dest and dealer fees and then buy it from them if that works out to a nice price.
Dennis
Thanks for your info. I live in Los Angeles,Ca. Tax/License should be at 8%...so approx $1,900.00. I will try and figure it out. Is the I4 SE Honda Accord the same as SE Honda Accord?
Thanks,
Joe
2nd question: say they do offer it for invoice. How can we know if they tack on all the ridiculous fees? I mean, can you just point them out and say you don't want to pay them?
I worry they will give you invoice, then make it up with all these fees, and then you end up paying OVER invoice (lots over).
For a Honda Accord SE, auto,4 cylinder:
MSRP: $22,220 Invoice: $20,088 TMV: $21,692
I live in Los Angeles...8% tax/lic approx 1,900.00
My 2 quotes from different dealers: $20,900 & $21,000
Maybe i should try $500.00 over invoice or less?? Maybe $20,600 or $20,700??
What infor you can provide me dennis would be greatly appreciated.
Joe
I researched and read all the posts in this thread and decided that 21,000 OTD was a very good price for an 07 Accord SE 4cyl. Automatic. It isn't the lowest price as I remember a couple of people paying 20,500 and 20,700 OTD.
I just asked the dealers if they can do it at that price. It didn't really matter to me what the breakdown of the numbers were because in the end it must add up to 21,000.
It wouldn't have mattered if they charged me 1,500 for document fee or 800.00 processing fee because then they would have to lower the cost of something else and it would still come to the same OTD price of 21,000.
Also, the OTD price in NJ includes registration fees for 4 years.
Good luck!
You know what...i am going to start at $20,500 OTD and see what happens. But i will not pay more than $21,000 TD. Thank you very much for explaining and sharing information. I will let you know.
Joe
Dennis
Where are you located? Some dealers just will not deal - most in my immediate area will not - while others will. You can save a lot of time and trouble by finding a dealer that will deal. Don't be afraid to travel to get a good deal, there is no need to buy from the dealer that is going to service the car (if needed).
When you get a quote be sure to say you want the price for the car including destination and any dealer or doc fees. Then you can compare prices against invoice and see how you stand. If they try to pull any funny stuff, you just walk if they don't hold to the price they gave.
Dennis
Also, check prices at carsdirect.com using your ZIP code and see what comes up. "In theory" the price they show you is the price a dealer local to the ZIP you use as agreed to sell the car. They may charge a dealer fee on top of the price, but at least you may find a dealer with better pricing. Search through the forum here, seems like folks from AZ and etc were going to CA to get deals, right?
Dennis
This evening i purchased a new 2007 Honda Accord SE, Automatic for $21,000 Out The Door. Penske Honda was great...very professinal and at the same time made me feel relaxed. Everything went smoothly. I believe i received a good price.
Thanks again to everyone who shared and gave me input.
Joe
Should I wait until close to Christmas to buy? I'm not in a real rush.
Thanks
I found a 1991 Honda Accord SE Sedan 4D on sale. It already has 148K miles on it.
What things should I check before buying and What would be the best bargain for the vehicle?
-Exterior looks ok. But the cover just behind both rear wheels have picked up some rust. I guess this very common in Accords.
- Both front seats (leather) are badly worn out. I am not sure if it worth repairing it.
- On the right rear there are some scratches. Seems it hit something, but not very badly i guess.
I just did a test ride and gathered few more information from the owner.
1. Timing belt - Never changed or repaired
2. it is has AT - Never serviced
I drove about 10-15 miles and found the ride was not smooth. I noticed low vibration while driving at 30-50 Mph. It was little smoother at 70Mph but still not very smooth.
I noticed very harsh shift when AT shifted from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. Also, when I shifted back and forth between P, R , N and D , with brakes applied, I noticed harsh shift and sometimes it took about a second or little less to change. Does that indicate problem with transmission??
The owner never changed the timing belt or water pump and never serviced transmission. So I guess I will need to change the timing belt as soon as I get it.
Also, I noticed it was much more noisy inside.
And what can we say about the condition of the vehicle ? good, fair or don't even bother looking at it ?
thanks
Biks
Chris
My question is, anybody could please share her/his pricing story or refer some easy-going dealer to me? I really appreciate any input. Thanks in advance! :shades:
me it is a good deal or not? thanks.
A friend is looking at an I4 EX-L auto and has gotten quotes of invoice or $300-400 under including destination and dealer fees.
Dennis