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You can trust me or not but you WILL pay a destination charge on every new car you buy just like I do.
I have always maintained some of the highest scores in our store and I don't "beg" anyone. I try to provide the sort of service that earns top scores.
But once in awhile I'll get a bad one. ALWAYS from the people who made the transaction a miserable one. The people who grind for tha last possible dollar are the same people who will burn us on a survey.
This doesn't happen often but when it does, I am done with that customer. I don't care if I ever see them again.
That was my only point.
Sounds like this woman was an employee of the dealer.
Doesn't seem to make sense that the Honda people would first call you up for verbal scores and then later send a written questionaire.
interesting, how do you handle the documentation fee issue? most are trying to charge $600 in florida. what do you do with that?
thanks very much
Wow ------- Why shouldn't a customer negotiate for that last dollar????? If they are courteous, respectful and fair, I think a customer has every right to fully negotiate the price. It amazes me ---- salesman get special training and are experienced negotiators. Why, then, does it piss them off when they have to deal with someone willing to play the same game?
You seem to be dissatisfied with a system that your own industry created. The industry depends on uninformed customers for its profits and breeds contempt toward customers who can exercise the skill and knowledge necessary to get to the bottom line. No dealership sells cars at a true loss. Whether its a break-even deal or a deal that provides some benefit on the back-side, dealerships don't exercise charity. Now, to the extent you, as a salesman, get hurt by a deal, or spend time on a sale that nets you nothing, that's a problem with the terms of your employment -- its a problem with an industry that doesn't treat its employees fairly --- it is NOT a problem with the customer.
I think I'd better stop there . . . . :mad:
I bought my coupe on Wednesday from Oakville Honda. The MSRP including all fees/taxes is CD$45K - I got mine for CD$39K (which included the Honda $3K purchase incentive). They were asking $41,600 initially, but I had received a quote from another dealer (Lakeshore Honda) for the $39K, so they agreed to match it.
I have to go back in the morning to finish the paperwork (we ran out of time Wednesday evening), and then just have to wait for the dealer to locate the car in San Marino Red (they only had Black & Silver on the lot). Good guys to deal with, our salesman was very honest and open as to what he could do, and if some accessories were worth it etc.
I'm really looking forward to driving my new car, but I don't mind waiting a few weeks for the snow to melt
Alan
Like I said, this does sound a bit harsh, but I think we all have been butchered by a salesmen or dealership, and what goes around comes around. Is it worth to let me walk out the door, because of your attitude, that is not my problem, and dealerships have to remember that. As a customer, that is not our problem, if you can set that aside, then its all good, you'll get some $$, and I'll walk away happy too, but the problem is, the dealerships show it too much. Desperation? Be happy, treat us right, and its all good. Some are not cut out for the front lines.
If you cannot stand the heat, get out of the kitchen!!
Sorry if this all sounds harsh, but I believe it all has truth to it.
That may or may not be true -- but I certainly did not mean to imply that by my post.
I use traffic much more often than I would ever use the Zagat guide.
You have to get a TL or 2009 TSX to get traffic since the 2008 Accord doesn't have it.
If the 2009 Accord nav has traffic this fall, I would be a bit more tempted.
If you spend so much money on the factory nav, you should not have to give up any feature available on a portable nav you can buy for under $400.
AAA appears to not do financing at all, but has a deal with Capital One Auto Finance.
The lowest rate for 60 months came up as 5.69% and I can do much better than that through my credit union.
I don't mind one bit a customer who is a tough negiotator. As long as they are friendly and upfront with me, I will enjoy the process and I'll do my best to make sure they do too. Maybe that is why after 12 years, probably a third of my sales are to repeat and referral customers.
It's the people who make the process a miserable one that generally give the worst surveys. I would rather not sell someone a car than have them leave unhappy.
I mentioned in my post the fact that the buyer also has to be fair and courteous. Internet sales present a bit of a problem in this regard. I have seen several posts on this forum, many months past, which talked about getting one internet quote, reducing the number by several hundred dollars, and then sending it to another dealer to see if they can match it. It may be an effective way to get to the bottom line, but I dont' think its fair!!
Frankly, I think the "no haggle" dealerships probably represent the best balance. Do you agree? I don't like them because my research and negotiation skills allow me to get a better deal than those I have found at no haggle places. But, I would think it would be better for the majority of buyers and a lot of salesman to simply put everything on the table. Frankly, no haggle dealerships would seem to be the best alternative for car manufacturers and/or large dealership chains -- it allows them to operate a bit like a monopoly.
In any event, thanks for not taking offense at my post -- I truly appreciate a good salesman and I think your success with repeat customers indicates your ethical approach!
The "no haggle" system doesn't work an here is why.
Many, if not the majority will simply take that "no haggle" price, write it down and then shop that number all over town in an attempt to do better.
The "no haggle" store salesperson may have treated the people like royalty, spent hours drving cars and answering questions only to lose a sale over a hundred bucks. Sad but true and just a part of this business.
If the "no haggle" price is mediocre at best (like used cars I've seen at CarMax), I would look for better deals elsewhere.
However, for many people, even the CarMax price is better than what they would have got if they were tricked into overpaying a rip-off price at a normal car dealership.
Many people are ripped off every day and end up paying outrageous prices over MSRP or even thousands over Kelly Blue Book Retail on used cars and don't even understand or realize how much they are paying for the car until it's too late and papers are already signed.
There are probably people like that who are still upside down in year 4 of a 5 year loan.
That should provide some help to buyers who were thinking about a lease but did not want to put $2999 down.
Later
I wouldn't have believed it either until I got into this business.
They did something like this last month but not now unless it's a regional thing?
Link: http://www.corpmsc.com/Splash_Loan.aspx
I'm in New Jersey and it shows 4.39% up to 72 months
A couple of years ago I knew a guy that had a 2002 Malibu which was absolutely pristeen and only had 22,000 miles on it. He was meticulous with it. One day at work I saw a new Equinox where his car was usually parked. I asked him if he traded it in and he said yes. I would have bought it from him but didn't know he was thinking of getting something new. I asked him how much he got for it and he said $6000. I looked it up on the dealers website and it was "on special for $12995".
Now I don't know what they actually got for it but I would say they made more on that car than the last 5-8 new cars they sold.
Not OTD, just the sale price. I can add in dealer doc fee, tax, plates, etc. No financing needed, I'll pay cash. I will have a trade on this one but will negotiate price of the Accord and then negotiate trade in price. I just want to know what I can expect. From what I've read it appear invoice or a few hundred less may be ballpark.
Thanks.
I am not sure if I should go with an Accord Lxp four cyl auto, or move up into the Ex..
All I really need is n the LxP model (rims, alarm, and pwer seat?? major niceties),
What is a good price to pay in CT for one of these cars??? I need to move on this soon as I am getting hammered about not buying one sooner...
What is the true dealer cost on this 2008 Accord? What is the safe (fair) profit to leave the dealer with??
Regards
Brad
The loan is not through AAA itself. AAA must have deals with different lenders in different areas.
In my area, I get Capitol One Auto Financing as the one with an AAA deal, at it isn't a very good finance rate.
"EXTRA LOW Financing Just Announced Today!
(All Accords, Civics, Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, and S2000 models)
Expires March 24th
2.9% Financing up to 36 months
OR
3.9% Financing up to 60 months"
Good price?
I know I didn't do so well on my trade...but felt good about the
price of the new car.
1. Go to Honda.com website and click on "find dealer" (DON'T use the request quote button).
2. At that point, select "request a quote" next to each dealer after you have list of dealers.
3. Fill out your info. don't put a phone number down, you call them if you want...they don't call you.
Ask for the following:
- Obviously request model your looking for in dropdown.
- In "comments" section put something to the effect:
Would like an OTD (out the door) quotation on Whatever Accord Model. Please itemize charges: Base Price, destination and document fee; only extras should be tax, title license. If Honda is offering an incentive on Accords (or dealer cash) tell them you understand there's an incentive and you'd appreciate them putting their best foot forward, incentive factored in. Additionally, please include the color selection that you have available. I'm checking with several dealers in the area and will be purchasing shortly, so your promptness and bottom line is appreciated.
Don't give them your phone number, you don't need anyone calling you.
- Press Send
4. Go Back to "find dealer" enter your zip and you'll get the same list. select "request quote" by the next dealer and this same form that you initially entered will be available. just press send.
5. Repeat to at least 8 dealers in your area. If your in a metro area. I'd send to everyone EVEN the closest.
5 1/2. Go to your credit union, capitalone.com or whomever your comfortable with and get your own financing. You should have a check in your back pocket when you go to buy the car or their going to bend you over. The big players will overnight you a blank check. If your a costco member, check out costco dot com and get the capital one rate there. You should get 5.9 apr for 60 months, which you will use as your fallback. Sometimes honda offers better, but it's in leiu of the incentives. Figure out what works best for you.
6. Sit back..you're in the drivers seat.
7. Wait for quotes to come in.
8. You'll find out who's serious.
- some will give you HIGH price
- some won't respond so go to their website and request a quote with same info as above (I found Honda has some deadlinks on their website to dealers) On the day before I was ready to buy, I called the nonresponders and was able to get them in the mix.
- a few will give you a pretty aggressive price
- you may end up with a clear cut low ball great price
9. Forget about the morons that ask you to call them for an appointment (The VIP treatment means getting bent over). On the ones that are really high, if you want reply and tell them they are off by whatever the diff is between them and your lowest price. i.e, "you're off by $2600, if that's your best shot, I'll pass thanks".
10. Let the few that are low sit a few days and then reply back. Note that you appreciate their offer. That you have a few others that are right there and that you'd like to buy from them. Your making the decision in the next 48-72 hours. (If you can time this for the end of the month, I think that will work in your favor.) Is this your best price? (If you want any accessories, nows the time to ask for them). Alternatively, you can name a price to see if they can get there, personal choice really here. I don't think you have anything to lose by seeing how hard you can push. If they won't hit the lowball price, then ask how low they can go and say you may come back if the lowball dealer doesn't come through. Here's why, my lowball dealer was writing a quote that said on an 08, but only when I called and said I'll be over this afternoon with a check for this amount for an 08 and he affirmed but then called back in 10 minutes to say he meant 07. Make sure again to qualify that Destination should be included and that there should be no dealer extras on the car (ask them to confirm this). Get an itemized out the door price. Base+Desination+Doc, + tax + title + license. Make sure that the documentation/processing fee does not exceed $100. In some states the most they can charge is $59.
11. Wait for your responses. Hopefully you should have a pretty good price (better than you have from your other guy).
12. Take the best quote you've got and email it to the internet dept sales person of the dealer closest to you and tell them you'd like to buy local if they can beat it. If they match or beat and have your color choice go buy from them.
13. If not, go back to the person with best quote and requalify the details? "You have this color in stock and this price includes destination? Only Extra's are Tax, Title License? They reply in writing with a "yes", then call them to once again firm these detials and make an appointment to meet them and drive (and hopefully buy) the car.
13.5 When you show up prepare for the bait 'n switch or worse but STICK TO YOUR GUNS. HAVE YOUR EMAIL CORRESPONDENCE WITH YOU. I did all of the above plus called on my drive to the dealer and confirmed everything was still true; only to be told that they had only one van and it wasn't the color we had discussed. In addition, it had accessories on it that I did not want. As a result, I threatened to leave (coat on and stood up) and suddenly a van showed up that was what we wanted. Drive the EXACT Car you are buying. Make sure it's the year you want and check the odometer. Make sure you like it, no rattles, etc. Inspect it for scratches, etc. Should be fine, but make sure. You've come this far, don't overlook final details. (After we had agreed to a deal, I got the "it's the salesman's/manager's fault" from the manager/salesman when the other wasn't around.)
14. Show up with your own financing as noted previously. When you pull the check from your pocket, their going to ask where/what your rate is. If you have good credit tell them you have 5.5% for 60 months. If they ask to see paperwork details on the check, make sure the ONLY thing you show them is the dealer details DO NOT SHOW THEM THE INTEREST RATE...DONT EVEN bring those details with you. It is NONE of their business. If you have good credit (780+, odds are they'll beat the 5.5% and you'll save even more money. Show up without a blank check and try to get 5.4% or lower and odds are it'll never happen.
14.5 You have a trade-in? Research your price on kbbdotcom and edmunds dot com. If its and older car with high mileage don't expect to much, sell it on craigslist, someone at work, or expect to take your $1500 at the dealer to be done. If you have a car thats actually worth something, again, do your homework. Get a price from carmax (they'll give you 7 days to decide to sell to them or not). At this point tell the dealer you brother inlaw was supposed to buy it but he backed out. They'll give you a lame price, tell them you need $500 over whatever your carmax price is..with the carmax price as your target.(Dont tell them you have carm
The 4 years reg for NJ DMV is $251 plus
$55 doc fee
$125 messenger fee
$9 notary fee
$10 temp tag
$5 tire tax
$204 total
Grand total $455
I'm trying to get what is the messenger fee, but they are not being very straight with me, Anybody have any thoughts on these costs?
Heck, I could give you zero percent but we would be paying the interest ourselves. Of course this would probably affect the price of the car.
Thanks :]
I started by getting internet price quotes from around the area and put them all on a spread sheet end result this is what I got from a dealer in Northern Illinois.
Selling Price including destination 20,996.00
splash Guards 199.00
Interior Illumination 254.00
Total Selling Price 21,449.00
Tax 1,304.63
License and tile Fee 80.00
Document Service Fee 150.00
Out The Door Total 22,258.63
I'm pretty sure that I paid a bit to much for the splash guards and Interior Illumination kit, but I wanted them and we got the car for a pretty good deal. I also got rid of my 95 Probe with 130,000 miles for $800. Once again I probably could have got another 300 out of it but then again maybe not and I don't have to deal with it.
Altogether the salesmen were courteous and professional and it was a very good experience.
Hope this helps
GG
Should I take it or keep trying around?
That is a WHOPPING 24.00 over invoice on a hard to keep in stock V-6 Coupe.
Naw, you should probably shop some more.
Man, that must be a miserable market wherever you are!
the next best i got was 26,433 though
I just emailed the dealer that gave me that price with the 26,300 offer
I'll see what comes up.
Why are you doing this to yourself.? Just buy the car!
Something doesn't sound right. These are very popular cars in short supply and I see little reason a dealer would give one away like that.
Are they one of these places that charge a huge doc fee?
Are they going to add destination charge to that number?
If this is for real, the market must be ruined in your area!