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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience
I am new here and have beem reading A LOT. Thank you everyone for the information. I am looking to buy an Accord LX 2013 Sedan and will shoot for 1800 under invoice in the Los Angeles area at the end of this month.
Just out of curiosity, is Honda's 1.9% financing good for purchases over 60 months? Let's say for 66 or 72 months...
I haven't called any dealerships here in So Cal yet but can anyone confirm that none of them are offering flex cash this month? If not, would it be smart to ask for free oil changes/tinted windows/wheel locks to close the deal?
Hey thrice - welcome to the forum. Pick John's brain because he's close to a 1400 below invoice deal - he went about this methodically and it looks like he will do well. If you take this down to the last few days of the month, you might be able to get to 1800 below. Make sure you work exclusively with the Internet Sales depts and it will make your job easier. Good luck - study this forum for good advice.
Bill G
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Hi. I am in the Philadelphia area and have contacted at least a dozen dealerships in the PA, NJ, & DE area for pricing on the LX model accord. Most of the dealers are right around $20,500 and won't go below that number, some even have the gall to claim they are losing money below that number. The best I have so far is right around $20,000 with total out the door cost of $21,500.
You may find it beneficial to contact Honda dealers in the DC area. Several seem to have a robust Internet sales focus. IMO, best are Sport Honda, Criswell Honda, Northwest Honda, and Pohanka Honda. Best to avoid, IMHO, Ourisman Honda and College Park Honda.
I've been reading a lot on this forum, and the posts have been very helpful (especially Brian's). Anyway, I live in NYC and I'm looking for an EX-L sedan to lease. I'm posting here because I'm trying to figure out what to shoot for in terms of the cap cost for the lease before I start contacting dealers.
From the posts in here it seems like $1000-$1700 below invoice is a range to aim for, before any flex cash is applied. Does this range include the doc fees or are those additional?
Regarding doc fees, I understand they are negotiable but what's a reasonable amount that I should be happy with? In other words, what is a ballpark for the fees in the NY area, and how low could I get them down to?
I am aware that waiting till the last days of the month will garner the best deals, but could I at least begin contacting dealers now to get the ball rolling or should I not even make initial contact until the month's almost over?
Thank you Brian and all the other contributors for sharing your experiences and ideas. It helped a lot in getting a good deal (negotiated with about 10 dealerships...) 2013 black Accord Sport Paid: $21,500 (incl. destination charge) price includes pro-pack (mat, mud guards and wheels locks). + Sales tax, Reg fees (California) Total OTD: $23,800 Financed at 1.9% for 5 years. Great car, looks nice and fun to drive.
I had both Sussman and Conecilli agree to 20K for the LX model. Both offer were contingent upon financing through Honda and applying $500 flex cash towards down payment.
I pulled the trigger on the deal last night and got $21,450 out the door.
yes $500 flex cash for financing with Honda. So the price of the car was technically $20,500 (about $1000 below invoice) because the flex cash is applied as down payment. really the only difference is that you are paying tax on the $500 since it is included in the vehicle price.
I am at Columbus, OH and I got an offer at 20420 before flex cash being applied and out of door price is 22090, so that I can get the price 22090 - 500 ( flex cash). I got the invoice value from truecar.com, my offer is 950 off invoice. Also I got the quote from the same dealer for SPORT, and it is 900 off the invoice. I have a plan to make a deal at the end of this month. Thanks!
If you Start contacting dealerships by email now contact dealerships that are the furthest away from you. Let each dealership know you will be ready to buy at the end of the month. N.y doc fee's are only $.75 dollars. Do not tip your hand on your target price til the end of this month. On the last days of this month you tell all dealers i will buy/ lease today for this price.
Ask all emailed dealers if they have your model in stock are they offing flex cash for leasing / financing vehicle.
Your target price range could vary in most states knowing the price range is a key factor in getting the lowest price possible And being confident your price is not a ridiculous offer.
1000 to 1700 is in the range of where you should be making a deal this month. i'm reading some good posts where pricing right now is 1000 to alittle over 1500 below invoice. Use these dealerships if there close by you to nail a similar deal with dealerships closest to your house. Worst case you make that trip to save money.
If your area and dealers are only going 1000 below invoice try to get 1300 hundred below at the end of this month.
I'm interested in purchasing a 2013 Accord EXL 4cyl and have read a lot of good advice to wait until the end of August. Do you think the prices will go down even more over labor day or even after labor day? I know I run the risk of the inventory depleting but I live in metrowest Boston where there are a good 6 Honda dealers in a short distance and I don't really care that much about the color. Will the $500 flex cash still be around?
Here's my best current internet offer to date. What do you think? The $500 flex cash is built in. $24149 + $790 destination + 6.25% sales tax (times like this i wished i lived in NH)+ other stupid but necessary stuff for OTD of $26, 954.
How does $618 for a remote started installed sound? I figured that would be a negotiation item too, but I really have no idea what a reasonable price is. I know the Honda website has $399 but that dealer said it's $618 installed. Thanks.
I am also offered the same. Is this from Bernardi Honda? $24149 (Flex cash included) + $790 destination + TTL. I had visited them then they offered it for 24k + 790 + TTL. I didn't strike the deal because initially when was told the price of $24149 over the phone i thought it included destination fee as well but it was otherwise.
Keep posting how your negotiation goes?
I am looking for somewhere around $24,200 + TTL. Is this reasonable from my end?
Thanks for the feedback. If doc fees are set at $75 in NY, then are there are other dealer fees that I can try to bring down? I don't think $75 is a big deal, but if there are a few hundred in other dealer fees then I would want to try to lower them. I guess I'm still confused because on this forum it seems that people sometimes use the term "doc fees" as shorthand to refer to other fees as well.
So your price before flex cash breaks down to $24,149+ $790 +$500 (flex cash) = $25,439.
That's not a good deal at all. Early last month, I received internet quotes from Herb Chambers, Honda Gallery in Reading, Honda North in Danvers and a couple of other dealerships. Their price was around $25.5k before flex cash. That price included the destination fee. BTW, flex cash is on a first come first serve basis.
The best deal I had gotten was with Honda cars of Boston, but at the time the internet sales rep stated that since they were below invoice there was not much room to negotiate.
I am going to try my luck at the end of this month and reach out to a few more dealerships. I am hoping that since 2014 models are around the corner and given the labor day weekend, some dealerships might want to make a deal.
For me, a good deal would be between 15% to 20% off MSRP with flex cash on an MSRP of $28,785.
Let me know what other offers you receive.
Good luck with your search.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Yes, it was Bernardi Honda of Natick. I got a similar price from Prime in Dedham. Herb Chambers and Boch were about 400-500 higher so now I'm wondering if they had the $500 flex cash in there (I can't imagine they would leave that off the table). I also looked at Honda Village in Newton and they were even higher.
I'll try the Honda Cars of Boston. Thanks for the tip on that one.
I'm also checking out the price in my hometown in western MA. The dealership's expenses have to be much less so let's see if they pass any savings on to me! I'm out there a few times a year to visit family anyway so the hour and a half drive is not a big deal.
And will keep you posted! It's helpful to compare notes.
You are right in saying there is confusion in the use of the term "doc fee." Most of the time I believe it refers to the fee that the dealer independently charges for the service it provides for executing the paperwork to register the vehicle a customer is purchasing/leasing. My preference is to clarify by calling it the "dealer doc fee." The dealer doc fee ranges from very reasonable to the point of almost gouging the customer. That's why Brian125 advocates making sure you include it in your pricing when considering what is a good price or not. Normally, the other "fees" such as DMV, title, license, taxes, etc are government mandated and can't be negotiated or eliminated.
With the turnover of folks coming and going on this forum, many of them new to the car shopping world, the subject of fees will remain confusing.
Bill G
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I am thinking of getting a Accord EXL without Navigation in the end of the month. I asked for quotes from to 7 dealers in the greater Philadelphia area and internet quotes varies from about $25600 to 26600. Most of them are below 26000, all of those only with financing.
It seems from post I've seen I should aim $1000-1500 below the invoice price. The invoice price is 25609 with 26399 with destination.
I have two questions: 1) Should I aim for 1000-1500 off 25609 or 1000-1500 off 26399? 2 Is the 1000-1500 target off invoice price before I take off additional 500 if dealer offer Honda flex?
Using the lowest internet quote you provided, you are about $800 below invoice (including destination fee). You did not mention whether these quotes included flex cash. Reach out to more dealers, if you can.
I would aim for $1500 below invoice the last two days of the month. These are my suggestions:
1. Aim for at least $1500 below invoice off $26,399. 2. Do not include the Flex cash in the $1500. It should be an additional $500 discount for financing through Honda. 3. Feel free to go through the forum and read some of the older posts with suggestions on how to go about negotiating the best deal and pitting dealers against each other.
Good luck.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
Not to confuse yourself or the dealers you contact. let all dealers contacted know you will buy immediately for 24,899. Plus taxes/ dmv charges This price is 1500 below invoice with dest/ charge included in offer $26.399 If dealer has flex cash to offer you for financing thru honda thats a addition 500 off your total sales bill. Some states are allowed by law and can add it as a down payment on your bill of sale so they could tax it. Either way its 500 you were not getting. Find as many dealerships offering flex cash to make a deal with first.
Start your negotiation process the last 2 days of this month either buying that day or the last day of August for the best possible price.
1500 below invoice might not be the lowest you could get. the more dealerships you get involved the better you will do on pricing.
Philly might be a tuff market for 1500 below. .
I know of no dealerships in philly that pricing is comparable to other states.
Thanks for the response. It was very helpful for me. The internet quotes didn't seem to state explicitly whether this included flex cash, except for one case. There the sale price reflected 500 flex cash discount.
Thanks a lot for this advice. I will contact dealers to ask them explicitly whether they offer flex cash in case the quotes I got are not clear enough for me. Then I will try to contact even further dealerships and wait until last few days as you suggested. By the way, one dealer did not give me a quote but said that I need to visit before I qualify for special internet pricing.
Do you know what the Philly doc fee's are at the dealerships. while you are talking with these different dealerships inquiry about how much there dealerships doc fee charge is. N.Y is capped at $75/ Calif. is capped at $80. N.J is anywhere from $199 to 499. Maryland 199 to 399.
If your one of those states with a high dealer doc fee charge you need to adjust your asking price to compensate for this charge. OR I flat out tell each dealership i speak with:
Will you remove this charge off the bill for the Sale today. If dealer says NO i add that fee onto my asking price making that charge a wash.
I asked specificially regarding doc fees for these dealerships and they answered back with ranges from 131 to about 208. All of them seem to have have Honda flex cash from I've heard.
Another issue is that I have a trade in. When I write those emails the last 2 days that I am interested to buy today if I get the price 1500 less than the invoice price etc, would I then request what I would like for my trade-in or do I need to let them look at the trade-in before that which means visiting each dealer (which would be a pain)?
You are correct. Its always best to sell private. Most transactions like yours is a headache. You need to visit dealerships willing to sell you the new Accord closest to your target price then making a deal with one of those dealerships with your trade. If you get close to value on your trade close the deal. Expect to take a loss on your trade.
Your trade in will also reduce the sales tax on your new purchase.
If your negotiating price on the phone/ email do not mention trade til you get into dealership. You want each dealerships bottom line price 1st.
A little off topic but I just wanted to reinforce some of Brian's comments of being patient and keeping lines of communication open with the dealers. I sent out email offers at the end of July just as Brian recommended. I got a ton if responses but once I let them know my target price I got much less of a response. Two weeks later i can tell that some of the dealers are looking to make their numbers and are starting to follow up. So my advice would be, don't wait until the very end of the month to send your first request for pricing. Maybe start in the middle of the month..and then let the dealers come to you. Make sure you have at least 5-10 dealers in the mix. I also found that the high volume dealers definately had the best prices and the best process for dealing. That's why they move a ton of volume. If you get responses from smaller dealers trying to play games or are really not competing...move on...maybe broaden your search radius. My two cents. Hope it helps.
Adding to your post............ If for some reason you do not buy from emailed dealerships at the end of August you keep the lines on communication open for the next months sale. You will find and learn alot about buying vehicles this way if you shoot 20 or 30 emails out. Dealers will call you back. Some will flat out tell you . listen we need to make our sales numbers we will sell you this vehicle. As Alpha has posted finding the high volume stores and the internet friendly dealership usually makes buying so much easier. Alot of dealerships that play games/ dont sell alot of vehicles,, have internet issues with pricing and dealing with a informed buyer like us just move on.
As you get better at buying new vehicles you will find calling/emailing dealerships the last week, last days of any month to start your negotiations cuts down on all the b.S. and nonsense dealers will run on you.
When i buy a BMW, or Mercedes i email/call 20 dealerships the 3rd week of the month . I then target 2 or 3 dealers to go back and forth on pricing till the end of the month hoping to get the lowest price from my targeted dealerships first. Most High end vehicles dealers are selling well above invoice price if not sticker.
Back to honda sales
I'm at the point now when i buy i want the dealerships full attention on those last days/ last day where he knows if he hangs up with me he most likely lost the sale. i always find middle of the month buying gets you half [non-permissible content removed] prices and games being played. dealers are hoping you bite.
AGAIN the key factor to getting your lowest price is :
Know your area's selling market price/ not making a ridiculous offer Knowing surrounding area's prices and boardering states. bringing those prices to light with dealerships where your looking to buy Buying at the end of the month. Doing your homework and research before you buy.
Getting outside credit approved first. A must if your credit is bad Contacting your INS company about vehicle you going to buy.
Totally agree. All of this varies by market but doing your research and following the basic tactics you're talking about immediately gets the dealers attention....and his best price.
You are right on the money. I had reached out to about 5-6 dealers in early July to get a feel of pricing on the EX-L. As of last week, two dealers are still in touch with me.
I did email one of the dealers back for updated pricing, informing them that I will be buying at the end of the month.
BTW, does anyone have any info on the release date and new features for the 2014 models? Honda has been tight lipped about it so far. The only info out there is about the Hybrid model, which would be selling for close to $40k.
2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
I posted this in the lease questions forum, but I want to crosspost it here because this forum gets more traffic:
Is the residual value on a lease based off of the MSRP or the MSRP + Destination? Does that vary by dealer?
Also, I had a question about how the $595 lease initiation fee gets applied. One dealer in NJ's internet quote for a lease listed the EX-L's cap costs as $595 less than their listed sale price for the car, so that when the lease initiation fee is included the car's cost is still the same as if you were buying. Is this normal? I assumed that the $595 was going to be an additional cost on top of whatever sale price I can negotiate. In other words, if I negotiate a sale price of $25,000, when they calculate the lease is it standard for it to be $25,595 or to stay at $25,000. Is this something I should be watching out for?
Residual is calculated using total msrp (incl destination). As far as I know, the lease initiation fee is included in the total cap cost (might vary state to state). Also, the lease initiation fee is one of those things you won't be able to negotiate. Therefore, it will be in addition to whatever selling price you negotiate.
Bill G
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I've been reading a lot of great information on this site and I want to purchase an EXL at the end of the month. I plan to use the steps outlined by Brian on this site. I have some questions that I hope someone can help me with. I live in Michigan about half way between Detroit and Chicago. How do I find out what dealerships within 2 hours of me are high volume dealerships? I hope to get a price at least $1500 below invoice ($26399-1500 =$24899). Does anyone know if that is doable in my area? Does anyone have any experience in purchasing a Honda in the greater Detroit area? Is there a dealership that you can recommend?
Try emailing these dealers in Chicago letting each dealership know you would be willing to take the trip out to them if they agree to your asking price. Your email or calls must also ask for dealerships doc fee charge, and any incentives they have like Flex cash if you finance thru honda.
The honda superstore of joliet Valley honda Ed Napleton honda Honda of Grand McGrath city Honda Carrs honda Contienetal Honda Fletcher Jones honda
Here are a few in M.I.
Betten Lafontaine Suburban Honda of ann arbor and Grand Blanc Ferndale Art Moehn Chevy/ Honda
Brian, thanks for the information. When I email the dealerships, do I need to know the name and email address of the internet manager or can I just send an email through the "contact us" section of the dealership website?
If you want a general response with pricing and the standard dealership B.S. go that route. I dont advise it. you want to buy this vehicle as quickly as possible This is the right way to proceed in your negotiations with out of state dealerships.
Call each dealership... Ask the phone person who answers you need the Name , direct number, and email to the internet sales manager and there office. Once you collect all your info from each dealership start with either emails or direct calls to each mgr. If any dealership wont discuss pricing over the phone or internet just move on and discard that dealership. Any manager that gives you his associate to deal with.. negotiate thru them . At some point he/ she will have to make a decision on price with you. When you negotiate all your leverage, and buying power with these dealerships getting your target price will lie by letting each one know.
I will buy today for this price/ holding this sale with a credit card deposit til i get down to you.
i find by going in strong with... This is my price to buy i knock out all the weak dealerships leaving only the best to deal with . Get rid of those dealerships right away they are useless to you. If you play stupid you get treated stupid. If you negotiate with the power of knowledge and know your pricing your efforts will be rewarded with the right dealerships. A good dealership that sells cars and is internet friendly will identify you and do there best to earn your business. Game playing dealerships will just string you along. Get rid of them quick.
This kind of buying falls right into my wheel house. i have bought this way in many states it works. I start this process the last days of the month. I would suggest you start a little sooner than me . 3rd week for emails, last 2 days last day for the sale.. unless you get your target price sooner.
Comments
I am new here and have beem reading A LOT. Thank you everyone for the information. I am looking to buy an Accord LX 2013 Sedan and will shoot for 1800 under invoice in the Los Angeles area at the end of this month.
Just out of curiosity, is Honda's 1.9% financing good for purchases over 60 months? Let's say for 66 or 72 months...
Thanks
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I am reading non-stop!!!
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Best I have found is 27,000 - 500 (dealer cash) + tax + 150 admin fee. that's it. Destination fee is already included.
This deal also includes spoiler, alarm system with extra remote, splash guards, mats in front and trunk all installed.
Trying to determine if this is good price. I have sourced the parts from handaaccessories for 841.
Is this a good deal?
Would you please tell me the dealer name that accepts the deal around 20000 for LX?
Thanks!
From the posts in here it seems like $1000-$1700 below invoice is a range to aim for, before any flex cash is applied. Does this range include the doc fees or are those additional?
Regarding doc fees, I understand they are negotiable but what's a reasonable amount that I should be happy with? In other words, what is a ballpark for the fees in the NY area, and how low could I get them down to?
I am aware that waiting till the last days of the month will garner the best deals, but could I at least begin contacting dealers now to get the ball rolling or should I not even make initial contact until the month's almost over?
Thanks!
It helped a lot in getting a good deal (negotiated with about 10 dealerships...)
2013 black Accord Sport
Paid: $21,500 (incl. destination charge)
price includes pro-pack (mat, mud guards and wheels locks).
+ Sales tax, Reg fees (California)
Total OTD: $23,800
Financed at 1.9% for 5 years.
Great car, looks nice and fun to drive.
I pulled the trigger on the deal last night and got $21,450 out the door.
Thanks!
If you Start contacting dealerships by email now contact dealerships that
are the furthest away from you. Let each dealership know you will be ready to buy at the end of the month. N.y doc fee's are only $.75 dollars. Do not tip your hand on your target price til the end of this month. On the last days of this month you tell all dealers i will buy/ lease today for this price.
Ask all emailed dealers if they have your model in stock
are they offing flex cash for leasing / financing vehicle.
Your target price range could vary in most states knowing the price range is a key factor in getting the lowest price possible And being confident your price is not a ridiculous offer.
1000 to 1700 is in the range of where you should be making a deal this month. i'm reading some good posts where pricing right now is 1000 to alittle over 1500 below invoice. Use these dealerships if there close by you to nail a similar deal with dealerships closest to your house. Worst case you make that trip to save money.
If your area and dealers are only going 1000 below invoice try to get 1300 hundred below at the end of this month.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Here's my best current internet offer to date. What do you think? The $500 flex cash is built in. $24149 + $790 destination + 6.25% sales tax (times like this i wished i lived in NH)+ other stupid but necessary stuff for OTD of $26, 954.
How does $618 for a remote started installed sound? I figured that would be a negotiation item too, but I really have no idea what a reasonable price is. I know the Honda website has $399 but that dealer said it's $618 installed. Thanks.
I am also offered the same. Is this from Bernardi Honda?
$24149 (Flex cash included) + $790 destination + TTL. I had visited them then they offered it for 24k + 790 + TTL. I didn't strike the deal because initially when was told the price of $24149 over the phone i thought it included destination fee as well but it was otherwise.
Keep posting how your negotiation goes?
I am looking for somewhere around $24,200 + TTL. Is this reasonable from my end?
Thanks for the feedback. If doc fees are set at $75 in NY, then are there are other dealer fees that I can try to bring down? I don't think $75 is a big deal, but if there are a few hundred in other dealer fees then I would want to try to lower them. I guess I'm still confused because on this forum it seems that people sometimes use the term "doc fees" as shorthand to refer to other fees as well.
Thanks!
So your price before flex cash breaks down to $24,149+ $790 +$500 (flex cash) = $25,439.
That's not a good deal at all. Early last month, I received internet quotes from Herb Chambers, Honda Gallery in Reading, Honda North in Danvers and a couple of other dealerships. Their price was around $25.5k before flex cash. That price included the destination fee. BTW, flex cash is on a first come first serve basis.
The best deal I had gotten was with Honda cars of Boston, but at the time the internet sales rep stated that since they were below invoice there was not much room to negotiate.
I am going to try my luck at the end of this month and reach out to a few more dealerships. I am hoping that since 2014 models are around the corner and given the labor day weekend, some dealerships might want to make a deal.
For me, a good deal would be between 15% to 20% off MSRP with flex cash on an MSRP of $28,785.
Let me know what other offers you receive.
Good luck with your search.
What are some offers you have received from other dealerships? If you have not already done so, contact Honda Cars of Boston for an internet quote.
Good Luck.
I'll try the Honda Cars of Boston. Thanks for the tip on that one.
I'm also checking out the price in my hometown in western MA. The dealership's expenses have to be much less so let's see if they pass any savings on to me! I'm out there a few times a year to visit family anyway so the hour and a half drive is not a big deal.
And will keep you posted! It's helpful to compare notes.
With the turnover of folks coming and going on this forum, many of them new to the car shopping world, the subject of fees will remain confusing.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
It seems from post I've seen I should aim $1000-1500 below the invoice price. The invoice price is 25609 with 26399 with destination.
I have two questions:
1) Should I aim for 1000-1500 off 25609 or 1000-1500 off 26399?
2 Is the 1000-1500 target off invoice price before I take off additional 500 if dealer offer Honda flex?
Thanks
Doc fee....................................................75
Tire fee....................................................12.50
Sales tax..................................................8.875 %
2 yr registration with New plates about.......200
Transferring plates.....................................75
In Conneticut that state Calls doc fee charge a ........... Admin. fee
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Doc fee....................................................75
Tire fee....................................................12.50
Sales tax..................................................8.875 %
2 yr registration with New plates about.......200
Transfering plates.....................................75
In Conneticut that state Calls doc fee charge a ........... ADmin fee
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I would aim for $1500 below invoice the last two days of the month.
These are my suggestions:
1. Aim for at least $1500 below invoice off $26,399.
2. Do not include the Flex cash in the $1500. It should be an additional $500 discount for financing through Honda.
3. Feel free to go through the forum and read some of the older posts with suggestions on how to go about negotiating the best deal and pitting dealers against each other.
Good luck.
Start your negotiation process the last 2 days of this month either buying that day or the last day of August for the best possible price.
1500 below invoice might not be the lowest you could get. the more dealerships you get involved the better you will do on pricing.
Philly might be a tuff market for 1500 below. .
I know of no dealerships in philly that pricing is comparable to other states.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
If your one of those states with a high dealer doc fee charge you need to adjust your asking price to compensate for this charge. OR I flat out tell each dealership i speak with:
Will you remove this charge off the bill for the Sale today. If dealer says NO i add that fee onto my asking price making that charge a wash.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
$24,980 MSRP (Includes Destination)
$22,929 Invoice (Includes Destination)
$21,828 Price (Includes Destination)
200 Processing Fee
1312.68 MD Tax
292 2 Years Tags
$23,632.68
- 500 Finance Cash
$23,132.68 Out the Door
Other DC area dealers quoted about $500 more than Criswell.
Another issue is that I have a trade in. When I write those emails the last 2 days that I am interested to buy today if I get the price 1500 less than the invoice price etc, would I then request what I would like for my trade-in or do I need to let them look at the trade-in before that which means visiting each dealer (which would be a pain)?
Your trade in will also reduce the sales tax on your new purchase.
If your negotiating price on the phone/ email do not mention trade til you get into dealership. You want each dealerships bottom line price 1st.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
As you get better at buying new vehicles you will find calling/emailing dealerships the last week, last days of any month to start your negotiations cuts down on all the b.S. and nonsense dealers will run on you.
When i buy a BMW, or Mercedes i email/call 20 dealerships the 3rd week of the month . I then target 2 or 3 dealers to go back and forth on pricing till the end of the month hoping to get the lowest price from my targeted dealerships first. Most High end vehicles dealers are selling well above invoice price if not sticker.
Back to honda sales
I'm at the point now when i buy i want the dealerships full attention on those last days/ last day where he knows if he hangs up with me he most likely lost the sale. i always find middle of the month buying gets you half [non-permissible content removed] prices and games being played. dealers are hoping you bite.
AGAIN the key factor to getting your lowest price is :
Know your area's selling market price/ not making a ridiculous offer
Knowing surrounding area's prices and boardering states.
bringing those prices to light with dealerships where your looking to buy
Buying at the end of the month.
Doing your homework and research before you buy.
Getting outside credit approved first. A must if your credit is bad
Contacting your INS company about vehicle you going to buy.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
You are right on the money. I had reached out to about 5-6 dealers in early July to get a feel of pricing on the EX-L. As of last week, two dealers are still in touch with me.
I did email one of the dealers back for updated pricing, informing them that I will be buying at the end of the month.
BTW, does anyone have any info on the release date and new features for the 2014 models? Honda has been tight lipped about it so far. The only info out there is about the Hybrid model, which would be selling for close to $40k.
Is the residual value on a lease based off of the MSRP or the MSRP + Destination? Does that vary by dealer?
Also, I had a question about how the $595 lease initiation fee gets applied. One dealer in NJ's internet quote for a lease listed the EX-L's cap costs as $595 less than their listed sale price for the car, so that when the lease initiation fee is included the car's cost is still the same as if you were buying. Is this normal? I assumed that the $595 was going to be an additional cost on top of whatever sale price I can negotiate. In other words, if I negotiate a sale price of $25,000, when they calculate the lease is it standard for it to be $25,595 or to stay at $25,000. Is this something I should be watching out for?
Also, the lease initiation fee is one of those things you won't be able to negotiate. Therefore, it will be in addition to whatever selling price you negotiate.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
The honda superstore of joliet
Valley honda
Ed Napleton honda
Honda of Grand
McGrath city Honda
Carrs honda
Contienetal Honda
Fletcher Jones honda
Here are a few in M.I.
Betten
Lafontaine
Suburban
Honda of ann arbor and Grand Blanc
Ferndale
Art Moehn Chevy/ Honda
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
This is the right way to proceed in your negotiations with out of state dealerships.
Call each dealership... Ask the phone person who answers you need the Name , direct number, and email to the internet sales manager and there office. Once you collect all your info from each dealership start with either emails or direct calls to each mgr. If any dealership wont discuss pricing over the phone or internet just move on and discard that dealership. Any manager that gives you his associate to deal with.. negotiate thru them . At some point he/ she will have to make a decision on price with you. When you negotiate all your leverage, and buying power with these dealerships getting your target price will lie by letting each one know.
I will buy today for this price/ holding this sale with a credit card deposit til i get down to you.
i find by going in strong with... This is my price to buy i knock out all the weak dealerships leaving only the best to deal with . Get rid of those dealerships right away they are useless to you. If you play stupid you get treated stupid. If you negotiate with the power of knowledge and know your pricing your efforts will be rewarded with the right dealerships. A good dealership that sells cars and is internet friendly will identify you and do there best to earn your business. Game playing dealerships will just string you along. Get rid of them quick.
This kind of buying falls right into my wheel house. i have bought this way in many states it works. I start this process the last days of the month.
I would suggest you start a little sooner than me . 3rd week for emails, last 2 days last day for the sale.. unless you get your target price sooner.
Good luck
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Feel free to read the official press release from Honda with pricing info, etc: http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/article.aspx?id=7343-en.