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Really appreciate all of the posted info. Thanks in advance for any help on this one!
Spoke with Megan they had only 1 silver LX cvt that they sold. dealership wants a $300 finders fee's to find you your model/ color So lets forget that route... Here is my suggestions.
1- You call or visit dealership today and see about another LX color. At 1369 below invoice they will not go lower if they are finding you a vehicle. If you decide to choose another color on Auto-Sports lot Negotiate to remove there doc fee charge of $289. for the sale today. By you removing dealerships doc fee charge would be like dealer selling you this lx model for 1658 below invoice.
Remember your dealing with a dealership with limited LX models on lot
2- Buy from one of the dealerships out of state. There was good pricing posted............... better than the New Jersey area.
3- Buy a 2014 model from one of the high volume stores Next month dont expect great pricing.
The problem is supply and demand alot of our dealerships are almost thru with certain 2013 models or have just a few. This makes it harder to get lower pricing seen in other states.
Your last post you said N.J. dealers where laughing at you and refused to lower pricing. The only reason My price is 970 dollars lower than your best offers are I know market pricing and how to negotiate better than you. Also your asking price is way to high for N.J. dealers. They wont sell that low 1800 to 2k below with limited stock. i posted a few days ago before i called dealerships for you that area pricing in new jersey is between 1000 to 1300 below invoice with or without flex cash. Jersey pricing is higher than other area's..
If i was buying that lx for you Sat there was room for maybe 200 more dollars for the sale that day at Auto-Sport ..Just getting a price like that with no real proof i was buying is not easy to do. Build on my below price range work maybe visiting 3 or 4 of the closest dealerships today beefing up your offer.
Good luck on your buying decision
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks
Quick question: to get the 0.9% Honda financing and the incentives (that expire Sept 3rd 2013), do you actually have to "take delivery" of the car, as in drive off the lot by close-of-business on Sept 3rd, 2013? Or can you just have the final paperwork signed by that date and still take advantage of the financing/incentives, and actually pick up the car a few days later?
I ask because due to the holiday (with so many cars queued up) my salesman said he could try to get the car ready for when I go back in tomorrow to finalize the sale, but previously he said it probably couldn't get done until Thursday. The car is basically direct from factor at the moment (only had 11mi on it and half the electronics weren't even working yet), so the service guys would need to turn everything on, etc.
Thanks!
Have dealership Fax you the bill of sale....Look it over sign it send it back get his signature then leave a deposit or possible pay for it.
I'm not sure if a deposit on your sale would help the dealer meet his inventory off the lot day. Still not a completed sale... Maybe it would be best to ask your options with dealership.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Had to pay $105 more, $22,355, but included installed mud flaps, so I'm thinking I paid $105 for the mud flaps. Didn't ask for any free add ons, paid the full $250 doc fee (most reportedly won't budge in OH), but got a $25 visa card for the test drive and $30 cash back on the amount I charged to my credit card.
Thus, shipped Invoice $24,037 less $1,682 = $22,355-$25 visa = $22,330-$30 cash back = $22,300. (I've excluded from the invoice the $104 retail for the mudflaps; currently sales price of $64 online). Got my 1st color choice.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Dealership will wave 300 fee if you close deal tomm. Mgr. just texted me.
If you play your cards right with this N.J. dealership telling him your set to buy in Maryland/ N.Y. tomm for this price xxx... dealer may concede to your price. Worth a shot. I think if you get him to just remove his doc fee charge of 289 or adding that price to your offer would make for a great deal in N.j. This would match New Rochelle's offer in N.Y. There doc's are only 75 dollars.
Speak only to george ..........good luck
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Huskerfan5 or gmanusmc, will help you.
Both may be on vacation but someone will help you in there.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks,
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Welp, thanks again for this forum. Bought an Accord 7 years ago and got a great price with the help from this forum! Well last week I got into an accident (yay I'm okay) but my car was totaled. Ended up buying another Honda Accord, especially with this year's new model redesign.
**The two dealerships I went with had etching, protection packages, etc. I know car selling is a business, but I really am annoyed when I am quoted a low price over the Internet and then find out there are $499 protection, $399 etching, $599 Xzilion packages that can't be taken off a vehicle. It's a waste of my and the dealership's time. Ended up going with a dealership that had the base LX without any of those packages that I didn't want. When you get a quote, make sure you call/communicate them back because sometimes that low quote does not include "Dealer Accessories" which are added on and not mentioned in that low quote price.
I tried asking for the $500 flex cash, but none was given. Maybe I was too late in the month? Here's the info below. I also was trying to negotiate off the $20,475 price but they weren't budging too much, maybe I could have done more but my wife was there and it was a long day dealing with the prior experiences at the other dealerships.
2013 Accord LX Sedan CVT (Automatic Transmission)
Sale price $20,431 (included $790 destination fee)
+9% sales tax $1,846
+doc fee $80
+$231.75 Official Fees ($133 licensing fees, $90 registration fees, $8.75 tire fee)
$22606.75 OTD
Hope this info helps someone!
All dealers pay this and they simply pass it on to the customers.
Dealer fees aren't "bogus". They are an attempt on the dealer's part to try to make a bit of profit after every nickel has been wrung out of the deal.
They may waive (as opposed to wave) or reduce them but that is up to them.
Good luck on your deal!
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Here’s the deal:
2013 Accord LX
Sale price: $20,500 (including $790 destination fee)
Dealer Add-ons: $ 0 (Wheel Locks and Splash Guards)
Doc Fee: $80
Other fees: $ 0
Total Dealer Price (Before Tax/Title/License) Without Flex Cash $20,580
Price after Flex Cash: $20,080 + TTL + 1.9% for 60 months
I figure I got around $869 off invoice and fees + $500 off flex cash for a total (under invoice savings) of $1369. I am happy with the deal. Thank you everyone for your help. It’s been a real learning experience and it was also a fun one.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I tried to get $1800 off invoice + $500 flex cash at end of August but wasn't successful. I could only get $1300 off plus $500 flex cash. I will be trying again at the end of September.
TIA
Update...I did not purchase the car from Prime Honda. Let me explain.
I went down last Friday, but before making the trip, I spoke with one of the sales managers and specifically asked them if the car I wanted to buy was available. He answered in the affirmative. I had been looking for an Accord with alabaster silver metallic exterior and grey leather interior.
Anyway, when I got there I met one of the internet sales rep who introduced me to a sales rep. He showed me the car in another color and we went for a test drive. After that, I gave him my info so that he could run my credit and we could get down to business. I soon realized that they did not have the car in my color and I heard one of the employees say that it was sold the previous night. I thought I had heard it all from car salesmen but this was one of the worst tricks and lies I had ever heard.
The sales guy then stated if they were not able to locate the car in the color I had requested within a day, I might loose out on the flex cash. He even mentioned that I should have left a deposit when I spoke to the sales manager after asking about the car. I am sure you can tell where this story ends. After nearly an hour, I walked out of the dealership pretty pissed off and realizing that they had just wasted my time. When I asked for the sales manager I had spoken with the day before, he was no where to be found. All I can say is that I would NEVER do business with this dealership and I will tell anyone in the greater Boston area to avoid them like the plague.
Let's fast forward to yesterday. On my way back from my labor day vacation, I received a call from one of their employees telling me that they were going to order the car in the color I had requested. The sales guy I dealt with last Friday called me today, telling me that the car would be at their dealership tomorrow but since Honda's financing offers end today (Sept 3rd), they would have to wait and see what the new offers were and then we could go from there.
All I can say is that, this has been one of the most frustrating car buying experiences. On the flip side, I had remained in touch with the other dealership that gave me my second best offer. I emailed the internet sales manager and informed him that if he could do $1400 below invoice, and locate the car in my color then we have a deal. He contacted a few local dealership and informed me that the car should be at their dealership tomorrow. I had to submit a credit application so that I could take advantage of the flex cash and the 1.9% APR financing deal.
I am hoping to sign the paperwork tomorrow, after inspecting the car at the dealership.
Wish me luck.
That price only includes the destination fee.
Your asking price could range anywhere from $1000 to $1700 below invoice. BUT, dealerships might have the upper hand since there is still strong demand for the 2013 Accords and there is limited stock. If you are not picky about the car's color, then you might be able to get a deal.
Read some of the previous threads on this forum for some pricing info negotiation advice.
Your story happens all the time. Why do you think i post in hear about buying by phone with a faxed buyers order. I try never to step into any dealerships store unless i'm picking up the vehicle. I hope it works out with dealership B.
Seems like 2013 models are clearing out quicker than expected.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Another interesting part of this story is that, the second dealer was able to lock in my interest rate and the Flex cash before it expired today. The first dealer was just trying to blow smoke up you know what.
Although, I am $100 above my intended target I am still happy with the deal. I cannot wait to tell the first dealer that was playing games to forget about the car, if and when they call me tomorrow.
Every year around this time I watched as some customers delayed their purchase hoping and thinking deals were going to get better as the year progressed.
This is typically NOT the case. Incentives usually end as inventories dwindle and people who are set on one particular color often have to settle for a second, third or fourth choice.
Trade in values drop with every passing month too.
We never had "flex cash" when I was still working but I can assure you, this is probably a fleeting thing. DO NOT assume it will continue and since it's now September I expect it will probably end.
Many a salesperson has made a wrong assumption that incentives and programs will continue and at some point, they always end or become less attractive.
I watched many customers outsmart themselves in their zeal to pay as little as possible.
Lastly, there are a lot of stores out there that resent it when they know they are being shopped to death and pitted against every dealer in the area. They will respond by pulling the kind of tricks that shoppers despise and think the shopper got what they deserved.
Some stores and some shoppers can make buying a car a miserable process and for what? To "save" 100.00?
The new Accords are fantastic cars and I hope all of you enjoy yours!
This deal is in Dallas for a 4 dr New Sedan EX-L
I dont have invoice price for the same as the dealer is not giving me that. Till now I have only negotiated on phone.
How much more I can drag them down.
Is someone here who has recently bought a car from Dallas and can share his experience?
I have read a number of posts these past few weeks expressing great frustration at not being able to reach what folks have established as their target prices. Think about it - if the demand for this car is still strong and supplies are steadily dwindling, why would the seller need to bend over backwards to accept an offer they feel they don't need to?
This is just my opinion and I understand we all have different priorities regarding how we spend our time - but when I am shopping for a vehicle, if I start getting close to my target, I start weighing how much effort I have already put in and how urgently do I need to execute the purchase. Just a thought - when you get within 300 bucks of your target we a looking at about 5 bucks in your payment at today's great rates. I'm not trying to convince you to agree with me - just think about it and it might eliminate some of the frustration and stress.
It looks like some of you have broken the code on this and closed your deals at pretty good prices (and got the flex cash) - good job and congrats!
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I saw on True Car one listing for LX manual for 19.9K. I have not followed up one that lead, but if it is legit then I call a few more dealers and see if I can it direct for a little less or is that price with gems such as mudguards?
One dealer said it had mud guards and key locks. Mud guards in Socal where there is more rain from my kicking showerhead in 5 minutes than sky half the year??? How about upgrade stereo, etc that has a least a little value?
I realize nobody asked my opinion and, no, I don't have a dog in the fight. The comments I make today haven't changed since I was active in the business.
I continue to be just amazed at what some people will put themselves through just to save a buck. But...that's me.
In my last few years, a huge portion of my sales came from repeat and referral customers. I valued their loyalty and I treated them like long term friends.
I don't think that means much to people anymore. It's all about PRICE and nothing else.
Yes, I know I'm a dinosaur.
They simply do not sell well at all to the point a lot of smaller stores won't even order any.
Resale on sticks is dismal so you may want to think about that.
I like sticks too but being from So. Calif myself and I know I sure wouldn't want to sit in that traffic with a stick!
I will be just as happy buying a used 2012 v6 from personal seller I've been talking with.
To me this is the most important part. $100 is well worth it in my eyes.
There's ALWAYS going to be someone who buys a car cheaper than you (except brian125, & I say that in all seriousness). There are so many variables. How much inventory a dealership has in stock, how much the dealership has to sell to make its monthly bonus, your sales person's monthly quota, time of the month, quarter, year, competition among dealerships in your region, availability of flex cash, what the current Honda financing "buy rate" is...
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I also wanted to add that I was tired of talking to other dealerships who did not want to give me a better offer via e-mail. After receiving an initial internet quote, most dealers kept trying to convince me to come into the dealership for a better offer. I refused to waste any more time haggling and dealing with salesmen who played games. I understand that once you are on their turf, some car salesmen think they can work their magic and convince you to take any deal they offer.
It never worked on me, since I walked out of a couple of dealerships during my car buying search.
This forum is a great source of insight and information to people like me, who are new at car buying. Keep the good advice coming.
"Special APR offer valid on new and unregistered 2013 Accord Sedan Models from September 4, 2013 through November 4, 2013"
Does anyone know if the honda finance offering the Flex cash deal for this said period?
What model Accord are you looking to buy? Where are you located? Are you particular about the exterior and interior color of the car? All these factors including supply and demand will depend on whether you will be able to reach your target price.
Just be aware that dealer stock on the 2013 accords is dwindling, so you better start your search now instead of waiting till the end of the month.
I'm just curious, did you try negotiating with the dealer who offered you $1300 below invoice plus flex cash?
If you read some of the previous posts, you will see that the following info would be helpful:
- Sales price (including destination fee)
- Cost below invoice = sales price - invoice price
- Documentation Fees
- License and Registration Fees
- Tax (Since it varies by state, this will affect the OTD price if I was buying say in Boston, MA)
- Cost of dealer add-ons
Was there any flex cash available?
Thanks a lot for clearing my confusion.
But how do I know that I am being offered best price or not.
I know the following things:
Destination price is 790$
Sales tax is 6.25% in Texas
The rest of the details I dont know as they wont tell me. As far as I know there is no flex cash involved.
Is it possible for you to give me a approximate split up of some one who has bought a car. It will give me good pointers on which factors to bargain on when I am negotiating with dealers.
You guys are doing an awesome job...Kudos to you.
Thanks
Suraj
If the dealer is not prepared to give you a breakdown then move on and contact another dealer. As I have stated, you can get the invoice price on any vehicle in your area from truecar.com or kbb.com.
Here is my breakdown for the best deal I got below on a 2013 Accord EX-L in the Boston area:
Invoice including destination fee: $26,399
Sales Price including destination fee: $24,998 ($1401 below invoice)
Flex cash : $500 (For financing through Honda)
Documentation fees: $298
Title and registration fees : $130
Sales Tax: 6.25%
You can add up all those numbers for an OTD price.
Again, without a breakdown showing what your sales price is there is no way to tell whether you are getting a good deal or not.
This clears lot of confusion which I had.
I will now negotiate accordingly.
Wish me luck.
Thanks a ton again
Your best bet would be to contact at least 7 dealerships in your area and obtain internet quotes. You might have to follow up with some of the dealerships asking them to clarify whether the price they quoted includes the destination fee. Some dealers might quote you a price that includes some incentives. If that is the case, tell those dealerships to provide you with a price without any incentives so that you can tell what the actual sales price is.
Then, find out who is offering flex cash (I am not sure if it is still available this month) and then ask them to list their documentation fees and title and registration fees. Armed with all this info, you can calculate the OTD price.
BTW, make sure you know what your credit score is if you plan to finance through Honda. If not, get outside financing through your bank or a credit union.
I'm looking to buy a LX in New Jersey and was unaware of the better pricing out of state...I'm willing to make a drive to avoid a headache...any suggestions to point me in the right direction?