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Other then a tire that is really low on air, the GM dealerships computer will likely point out a wheel sensor (part of the hub/bearing assembly). It is fairly likely that it is the connection to a sensor that is loose or corroded.
I went to pick up my Rendezous and get my money back and the service dept asked to keep a few more days, they took the bumper off a used Rendezous in the lot and attached it to my sensor module and then it worked so they removed all the sensors in the used bumper put them in mine and for now it is working. :confuse:
I have a check Engine Light and when I brought it in they said it was a P0741 code. Basically they said they need to bring it into the transmission shop and it would cost anywhere from $600-$2000 depending on what they had to do. It shifts fine through all gears and reverse. The only problem is that it won't go into overdrive. I guess this code says that the Torque Converter Clutch is slipping. Anyways has anyone else had this problem. What are the odds that it is the selenoid??? Thanks in advance!!!
After having our driver window stop working 4 months after buying our Rendezvous and the dealer wanting $275 for the whole motor/regulator/clip assembly I decided to look around for a replacement. Car-part.com led me to 3 different salvage yards, all telling me the same thing as the dealer, the clips cannot be purchased separately but they would be glad to sell me the whole setup for $100. I said ok 3 times.... The first salvage yard called me after i placed the order and said they had broke the clips removing it from the door. The second salvage yard could not find the door....ya, it disappeared! the whole door! The third was going to be the charm, after a week I called them and they said they had broke the clips also. I was content with the door panel off and my 1x4 with a notch holding the window up....but the boss said she didnt want to drive a ghetto vehicle. Then 3 weeks ago the passenger door clips broke! Talk about a total POS design flaw. So internet searching led me to the Buick forums where I found the part numbers for the clips. I ended up spending $80.45 for 4 clips, (2 for each door), shipped to my house Since my clips were broke in about 12 pieces I had no idea how to replace them....but about an hour later both side were done. Here are some pictures to help the next person with this project (and probably me again before its paid off) Part numbers and references at bottom of page
Here is the passenger side regulator removed from the door....I think about 5 10mm bolts held it on.
Here is the small "barrel" that snaps into the clip and moves it up and down the window.
The clip slides on the track first
Then slide the clip over the regulator and lock it in place (you can kind of notice the slot for the barrel)
Once the clip is locked on, line up the barrel and push it in with a screwdriver
The barrel is locked in place
Driver side ready
So your ready to try it yourself? I would say most people with a little brain can do this with no problem. The clips can be found at gmpartsdirect.com The left part number is #15286776 and the right is #15286777
After a check engine soon light appeared in my 2003 Rendezvous, I was told that it had a fault code of P0453 which had to do with an evap emission control system pressure sensor having a high input. I took the car to another local servicer and they are saying that the fuel pump needs to be replaced along with all sorts of other parts involved with the pump. It would cost over $850 to do all that. Is this correct? Is this really another issue and not the pump at all?
dabacon, Unless your car was having problems starting, stalling, or not having power, there's no reason to believe you need a fuel pump. You do NOT need a new fuel pump for a P0453 code - it's a vapor system code completely unrelated to the fuel delivery system. I used work in the group that made fuel pumps for Ford and analyzed thousands of warranty claims. A fuel pump repair can be costly. The part itself is not cheap, and the labor to do it requires draining and dropping the fuel tank. $850 is in the ballpark but seems high. I would ask for a breakdown on the repair to see what is involved.
I thought about this some more, and there is one legitimate reason to replace a fuel delivery module for a P0453 code. IF the fuel tank truly does have high pressure and IF there is a valve in the flange of the fuel delivery module to vent vapor and IF that is the highest vapor valve on the fuel tank and IF that valve is stuck shut, then replacing the fuel delivery module could be appropriate to allow your tank to vent. I haven't seen the Rendezvous tank to know for sure, but I would say this is a real long shot. If the P0453 code ever sets with less than a 7/8 tank of fuel, this is not the problem because one of the other valves on the tank should be venting.
I appreciate your advice and expertise. I had a dealer look at the problem as well. They stated that water leaking from the air conditioner had gotten on to the fuel pump and the wiring and connectors around it, rusting and corroding them. However the fuel pump itself should be ok they said. The dealers wanted even more money for the repairs and said that the pump could lose pressure and the car not start or just stop running while driving. However they said that could happen tomorrow or two years from now. After they reset the P0453 code, the check engine light has not come back on. I live in a very arid area, but had just left a pretty humid area the day that the light came on. Some of your assumptions have already proven to be true it seems, but I still don't know if replacing everything is necessary at this time. The replacing-part-by-mileage section of the owner’s manual never said anything about having to replace the pump. However, with the water leaking it may have done enough to warrant that. I probably need one more opinion now about the extent of the water damage on the pump (and get an extension for the tube where the water leaks out so it can go directly to the ground). I've been driving it for 2 weeks now with no problems
The fuel pump is located INSIDE of the fuel tank, so there is no way water dripping would affect the pump itself at all.
There is an electrical connector (C305) located under the car almost under the drivers seat. This connector has numerous wires, one of which supplies power to the fuel pump. Some owners have had mosture, salt spray, etc get into those connections and cause problems.
A few owners that had stalling, no start, engine shut off as if the key were turned off, etc traced their problems to the connector C305. Try an internet search for the C305. Perhaps this is what the mechanic is talking about.
I doubt if the AC condensation would be able to travel that far and get into the connection. I think the vent tube is on the passenger side, not the drivers side.
Hey All. Purchased an 2002 Cx Vous about 2 years ago and have not had any issues until now. Recently I got into car went to start it and got the Pass Key error - where the radio locked up, and the error for PK3 showed up on the dash. I was not able to pop the back trunk or roll the windows down. I shut the truck off - gave it a few minutes, and everything was fine - except the radio says CALIBRATE. I have been driving with this issue for about 2 weeks now - but it seems to be a little more severe. Examples - daytime running lights will not shut off, or interior lights will not shut off when truck is off. Some times when pressing the LOCK on the FOB - it locks the doors, and then the horn does not honk. Sometimes when the truck is off, everything looks good, the windows still go down even after I open the door. I had the ODB scan tool take a look at the truck and it said P0141 - bad O2 sensor - so I know I have to replace that for sure, but no other errors came up. I have followed up with every possible forum to see what I could do and I tried the uplug battery option, and it fixes the issue sometimes for 8 - 10 starts and others it only fixes it for one start. I called the local GM dealership here in London Ontario and was advised it is a definate BCM issue. COST 220 for them to scan the codes, 899 for a new BCM and 110 an hour for labour - with a minimum 4 hours work. Before I go and pay thru the teeth on this one - can any one help me out? is it the BCM? Am I being ripped off in the cost department. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated, as pulling the positive every night is starting to take its toll.
There is a place in Oshawa where you can get your BCM fix - I think that the name is Custom Auto or something like that...I may have to check if I still have the receipt from them. Apparently, the dealers their defective units to them to get them fix - and it come with 1 year warranty... back in 2006
Plz send me the info about how you replace the thermostat on the rendezvous without taking out the crossover exhaust pipe. That will be very helpful for me because I spent more than 3 hours to reach the dam Bolt on the crossover exhaust pipe but no luck. thanks for the help
The hardest part is the back bolt on the thermostat housing. I was able to get a wrench on it and use a large screw driver as a lever from the side and got it to loosen the bolt that way. Once loose, it takes a while, but it will turn a little bit at a time. There was no way i was taking off that crossover pipe because I could not get to half of the bolts. Everything else will come off, just the back bolt is tough. Good luck.
Is this thread about the 2006 Buick Rendezvous surge still going? I have a the same problem. The car has 42,000miles and it will do that rpm surge thing when your cruising on level ground on the freeway. This isn't normal operatation. Anybody get a fix yet on this?
It works fine most of the time but on occasion it reads faster than I am actually driving. Sometimes it doesn't read anything. Anyone know where to start troubleshooting this problem?
I agree with everyone with regards to the problems and money that comes along with it being a Buick RDV owner. I purchased my car used, a 2002 in May of 2006. After loving and driving it for a week, it stalled on me. I too had power but the car didn't go anywhere. I thought I would hear it from my husband "I told you so" because he said I should get a new car...but I didn't. The car was under the lemon law also I had paid over $1600.00 for an extended waranty. The car was towed to AAmco and stayed there for almost two weeks. I was embarassed because friends and co-workers advised against buying someone else's headaches. Long story short, the car was repaired without any extra cash out of my pockets. However, since I have replaced two (2) module computers, had work done on my heating system, replaced my condener, just last week, I had an outside mechanic change the rear hub bearings because the dealership wanted double(still had to pay the diagnostic fee to dealer), just missed out on the front wheel bearing repair because it expired last year, need shocks and after hearing a clicking noise took it back to my outside mechanic and he told me it was my piston(s); which means motor work which means thousands of dollars that I do not have. I had a great rate on a credit card and bought the car outright but three years time is not enough time to have a car and have to give it up so soon due to poor mechanics. The car cost me over $16,000. and I would say I have put about $4,000. in repairs. The outside mechanic gave me an engine flush on a couple of days ago. He said sometimes it works but let us just keep our fingers crossed. I'm already thinking about my options, my car is used to go back and forth to work,,,,never been on a trip and it is just over 73,000 miles/46,000 when I purchased it. The dealership pretty much told me to eat crap or walk-I choose to walk and the Buick Customer Service reps can't do anything but be a liason between you and the dealership. The can't make them help you, I got that first hand experience.
You may want to see if your speedometer cable is loose. My first guess was that your tires were replaced with different size tire than the manufacture recommends; but when there is not any speed registering at times it sounds like a cable issue. (Try unhooking the cable and if that does not work; you may have some broken wires in the cable somewhere).
One minor thing. I have begun to notice a humming sound and feeling coming through the front of the car, only occurs while in 4th gear, at medium throttle inputs, under light load (like climbing a hill) and only around 50-55mph.
I don't feel any slipping or difficulty keeping speed so I don't think it's internal to the transmission. My guess is a bad engine mount or transmission mount is allowing a specific vibrational frequency to come through the body.
Humming on the front could also mean the vehicle's front wheel bearings are going. If wondering, my wife's 2003 RDV was like that. It would get a humming noise at 50-55 mph hiway speeds. As time went on, the humming sound speed gap became wider and wider. Before replacing both its front wheel bearings (when vehicle was only 3 years old), the humming sound was at all ground speeds. Especially at the faster hiway speeds. As a suggestion, get your local mechanic to perform a FREE front end inspection. re: Wheel bearings, inner tire thread layers and tire balance. All these things need to be inspected - verified.
:lemon: I'm having the same problem with my 2003 Buick rendezvous the fans not turning on unless the a/c is on, I'm in constant fear of overheating, can someone with this similar problem tell me how they got this problem fixed or what was the cause. can you believe i got no help with this problem from Buick headquarters, they act oblivious to any major problems, especially when it comes to overheating. but i know different i have replaced window motor, starter, more than one kind of gasket for the engine and transmission, hub assemblies, wheel barrings, frequent brake jobs, complete a/c system replaced, engine censers, I'm going to stay away from GM products next time, i just cant chance another round of this, very very disappointed. :lemon:
I had to replace the thermastate and the antifreeze. I also found out that my gages freaked out when the engine oil was old or low. The check engine light would come on and the car would stall. It spent two weeks in three different shops and no one could tell us why it was stalling out. It turned out to be low oil. I wish you good luck and I am never going to buy a GM car or truck again. :mad:
Hello. Is your RDV overheating? Is the temperature gauge getting close to the red zone?
With A/C off, the fans are not supposed to come on unless the engine crosses about 212 degrees F. At that point, only ONE fan is supposed to come on, until somewhere around 235*F.
If you aren't driving in heavy stop and go traffic, or towing, the fans would only come on once in a while.
If turning on the A/C immediately turns on one of the fans, that's a good sign the fans are working.
What year is your RDV? How many miles? Many shops will recommend a thermostat replacement when you change out the coolant as a precaution.
As far as the oil - the gages (sic) have NO way to know if your oil is "old". If your check engine light came on because your oil was old, it was extremely old, abusively so. I am NOT saying you abused your car - I am saying you do not get a Check Engine light due to old oil.
As far as the car stalling because the oil was LOW, how long had it been since you checked your oil level? You know, with the dipstick? Any car, even a brand new one should be checked periodically, at least monthly.
:confuse: my RDV has not reached the red area yet , but am still curious if someone else had this repaid and what was the fix, anyway my RDV always sat with a still temperature and didn't fluctuate from 1/4 hot and the 1/2 way mark on my vehicle, but lately i have noticed that its reaching close to the 3/4 hot and the fan is not kicking in, its at the shop at this time and i was told one of the cooling fans was week, and replacing it will take care of the problem, I'm hoping the mechanic is correct, the fan is about $29 to $39 dollars plus installation, i was told this vehicle is hard to diagnose when it has cooling issues or fan issues, i couldn't take it to the dealers, they charge well over $300(rip off), I'm still trying to recoup from my last A/C repair :confuse:
this 2003 rendezvous is still not working properly , i don't understand why this vehicle is giving me so many problems, when it was well, i mean well maintained, for those people that don't want to hear about the crap GM makes, they are crap, never had these kind of lists of extended problems through out the years, you figure with 83,000 miles is not alot of mileage for all these problems, at this time, i just picked it up for a cooling fan repair yesterday , the fans are fixed but the temperature gage still climbs near the 3/4 hot when idling or in park, and the temperature sits steady only when i run it with the a/c on. throwing more money away that i don't have today , thanks GM, hearing from other people that have GM products, tell me they have issues to :mad: :confuse:
Whoever told you this car is "hard to diagnose" is either lying or doesn't know what they are doing. Sorry to be so blunt. The engines in the RDV (both 3.4 and 3.5) have been put into millions of cars/trucks/vans since their initial design came out in the late 1980's. The engine has been tuned, adjusted, enlarged, more controllers, etc., but it started its life back in 1988 as a 2.8 V6. The two fans come on in two stages, at two different temperatures. They can be turned on manually by a tech to test them, at any temperature. It's one of the easiest things to troubleshoot.
Does the fan now come on? Does it appear to spin fast? If "yes" and "yes" and the car still sits at 3/4 on the temp gauge, they didn't test the fan correctly, and just threw parts at your car. I'd be disappointed too.
Question: if it gets to 3/4 hot and you begin driving at a steady speed, at least 40mph or even take it on the highway, does the temp drop down again? If so, the fans are still part of the problem most likely. If the temp does not drop during steady, higher speed driving, then the cooling system is not working efficiently. Either the radiator needs a cleanout or there might be air in the system. Has any maintenance been done to the car lately? If so perhaps they didn't purge all the air.
It sounds as if your RDV is functioning properly, however, you neglected to say if the fans are kicking on at the 3/4 point. Also, what is the temperature outside? That has a lot to do with engine operation as well in terms of cooling. Idle the vehicle and let the temp rise to 3/4, then turn on the a/c (low is fine..keep your radio off) now listen for the fans to kick on in a few seconds. If they do, and the temp drops, then you're good. Second test, idle car til temp reaches slightly above 3/4, fans should engage, then drive off, no a/c, temp should drop and fans should disengage. My '04 RDV only has 140,000 miles on it and it does that and never overheated even on 100 degree days.
Alright I bought my '03 RDV CXL as a totaled vehicle with some front end damage back in 04-05 with 23K miles on it. After I repaired it I have put on about 80K miles and I have replaced the alternator, and both wheel bearings(I chalk this up to the wreck), and tires(God forbid). This car has been a rock solid vehicle that have have taken hunting (nothing truly off-road, but in the middle of alfalfa and wheat fields) and on several 2K+ road trips. I have done all of the oil changes and rotations on time and it has been a great car. So those of you that complain about your car acting up 2 sentences after saying you've ran it with low fluids, its not the car's fault it didn't add or change the oil.
Anyways, my A/C has been leaking refrigerant, I got it checked and filled once and it leaked out in days. The guy that checked it put it under vacuum for 20 minutes and it kept pressure. When I brought it back in he couldn't remember if he put dye in my system(major oversight if he didn't since it obviously wasn't holding pressure) and he couldn't see any evidence of dye leaking in the engine compartment. He brought up that it could be the evaporator, and well I don't feel like tearing my entire dash out. So my question is what are the chances that the evaporator did start leaking? I'm trying to get it into another place with a sniffer to see if they can find the leak with out relying on the dye.
the fans in my 03 rdv have been fixed at a garage, not dealer, and i was not satisfied, took it to dealer for a second diagnostics and they found nothing wrong, but it still fluxuates when i idle ,but not when I'm driving i think the fans should come on sooner, temp is past the 1/2 a little , its some improvement, the vehicle gets all its maintenance , I'm just having weird problems that i never or rarely encountered with other vehicles iv owned, I'm not saying all GM products suck, just mine and from what i see few countless others, the one thing i can say good about today was my service was great at the Chevy dealership. in the past i took it to Buick , but was not impressed, i think I'm going to change the thermostat, and i hope that fixes it, oh is it necessary to remove the cross over exhaust manifold to get to thermostat, and is it going to be the same when that comes off, and is put back on(crossover), i swear I'm trying to like my car again and have hope for GM. staying up late to wright this so i hope this all makes sense,
hey man , i feel the frustration you have, i go through it, i feel I'm becoming a hipocondriaco about my Buick rendezvous, whats going to happen next, or whats that new noise, its always something, isn't it, my advice if your stuck with it look on craigslist for a certified mechanic and let them know you are shopping for the best fit for you, i was lucky i found a certified mechanic that has worked for GM in the past , the best thing about him is he can come to my home, or i can go to his when i need a repair, best thing is i get to see my repair in progress and for example i paid only $70 for a thermostat change , would you believe he didn't take out the crossover exhaust pipe that everyone says you have to take out, how sweet is that, it was one of the best repairs ever, and i saved quite a bit, don't pay over inflated prices on repairs if out of pocket, good luck and keep up your maintenance ahead of schedule.
about the rendezvous, like i said we have an 03, I'm not trashing it, they are just facts, trust me i did my homework, even mechanics have allot of things to say, and no they are not trying to get into my pockets, at this time my vehicle is OK and i hope its stays that way ( this is $1500 last month for repairs and maintenance) and yes, vehicle was pampered from day one. good luck
The one bolt that holds the thermostat housing should come off without anything special. The back one is a little harder. I used a wrench on the bolt and a screwdriver to pry up on the wrench coming in from the side. There is not alot of torque on the bolt so if you get a good pry on it, it will loosen. Once broken loose it takes some time but a liitle turn at a time and I got it off. Once the bolts are off, the housing and thermostat will come out.
Hi! The odometer and transmission gear indicator are always dim, like in night mode. The digital display under the tach is the same brightness at night (dim) but is much brighter during the day, so is easier to read in daylight. I replace the instrument unit thinking it would correct the problem, but no change.
Does anyone know for sure if this is a function of the BCM perhaps, meaning I would have to replace that in order to correct the problem?
This seems to be a common topic, so maybe someone can help. Neither cooling fan comes on no matter what temperature (although I have not red zoned it). However, both cooling fans come on (at a reduced speed), only when the a/c is turned on. Both fan motors were replaced, as well as all 3 cooling fan relays. I was told that the PCM needed to be check by the dealer. Any other suggestions would be greatly apprecitated.
My 2003 Buick RDV is having the same problem with the fans not running unless the a/c is on (and then they only run at a slow speed). Did you ever figure out what the fix was?
I've seen this asked a number of times, and usually (unless it really gets into red zone without fans coming on) it is working as designed. In my Pontiac version it has to get really close to red zone before fans come on, just a bit un-nerving to see the needle that high. Both fans are supposed to come on anytime the A/C is used.
The temperature gauge on your dash is fed from a different Coolant Temperature Sensor than what the computer uses to know when to turn on the fans, how fast to idle the engine, how rich to run the A/F ratio, and many other important decisions it has to make based on how hot the engine is running.
So its very possible that the sensor for the dash gauge has gotten covered in coolant 'sludge', corroded, or electrical problem with it. It may be showing much hotter than your engine is actually running.
You would need a scan tool to see what temperature the computer is seeing. It should be generally around 190-210 (generalizing here). If the computer shows normal temperature, but your gauge is showing hot, that's your culprit.
If you can find a local small-shop mechanic, he'd probably charge you very little to hook up the scan tool for 5 minutes when you have your RDV nice and hot so he can check engine coolant temp.
So - in summary - the needle should not hang out near the red zone, that's not normal. BUT it may be a problem with incorrect reporting of the temperature rather than an engine that is actually running hot.
'So - in summary - the needle should not hang out near the red zone, that's not normal'
Well it should not stay near red zone, but it is common for it to go near there when stuck stopped in traffic on a warm day, then go down to normal when moving at a better pace.
I purchased a 2003 Ren last year and have put a lot of kms on it...had a few major repairs also. Just wondering if anyone out there is familiar with the error pictures that show up in the dash? I don't have an owner's manual to refer to and don't want to take it in if it's not necessary.
Hhmm since your putting on KMs, safe to assume you are in Canada? I believe the pictures (also assuming its a vous that was originaly in Canada) may be different then in the states. If you describe the pics (and color of background) it may help determine what they may be. If I can get a link to work, here is an online version of owners manual (its for 2007, but may not be much different)
on the dash to the left and down push the drive center button mode the when you get to tire presure click on set , ive notice on mine if it came on often it was there was a problem with traction, iether from low air , or im my case was a bad allingment , go figuer
Hi Amseidl, I would start by checking 2 things. The first is the "mass air flow sensor" and the second is catalytic converter. The mass air flow sensor can be faulty even if there is no code. Check several forums for "How to test mass air flow sensor" or talk to knowledgeable technicians. If your catalytic converter is clogged, you car will run poorly and continue to stall. Both items dealers often over look unless there is a code. If you are getting poor gas mileage, these 2 things can also be the problem. You can buy the mass air flow sensor at Auto Zone for $100 with core trade in. It is very easy and quick to replace. Hope this helps.
No, I do not "work for Buick." In fact, I do not work for any automotive company at all. I'm a corporate attorney. My wife drives a Nissan Murano and -- guess what -- I'm STILL driving my 2002 Buick Rendezvous. 96,000 miles on it as we speak.
I'm sorry your experience with your Buick was not as good as mine. But just because I haven't had as many problems as you -- you presume that I work for Buick?? Come on! I'm trying to give people my honest, truthful experience (MY experience) with my vehicle. I'm not saying that Buicks are problem-free. However, there is NO vehicle on the road today that is problem-free. Every manufacturer makes a few lemons. Mine, fortunately, was not one of them. Sorry if yours was.
We are definitely considering an Enclave in our future.
Comments
Thanks in advance!!!
The below was posted a while ago, if you can find the post it'll have pictures...
Buick Rendezvous (and maybe Pontiac Aztek) Window Regulator Clip Replacement $40 total!!!
After having our driver window stop working 4 months after buying our Rendezvous and the dealer wanting $275 for the whole motor/regulator/clip assembly I decided to look around for a replacement. Car-part.com led me to 3 different salvage yards, all telling me the same thing as the dealer, the clips cannot be purchased separately but they would be glad to sell me the whole setup for $100.
I said ok 3 times....
The first salvage yard called me after i placed the order and said they had broke the clips removing it from the door.
The second salvage yard could not find the door....ya, it disappeared! the whole door!
The third was going to be the charm, after a week I called them and they said they had broke the clips also.
I was content with the door panel off and my 1x4 with a notch holding the window up....but the boss said she didnt want to drive a ghetto vehicle.
Then 3 weeks ago the passenger door clips broke! Talk about a total POS design flaw.
So internet searching led me to the Buick forums where I found the part numbers for the clips.
I ended up spending $80.45 for 4 clips, (2 for each door), shipped to my house
Since my clips were broke in about 12 pieces I had no idea how to replace them....but about an hour later both side were done.
Here are some pictures to help the next person with this project (and probably me again before its paid off)
Part numbers and references at bottom of page
Here is the passenger side regulator removed from the door....I think about 5 10mm bolts held it on.
Here is the small "barrel" that snaps into the clip and moves it up and down the window.
The clip slides on the track first
Then slide the clip over the regulator and lock it in place (you can kind of notice the slot for the barrel)
Once the clip is locked on, line up the barrel and push it in with a screwdriver
The barrel is locked in place
Driver side ready
So your ready to try it yourself? I would say most people with a little brain can do this with no problem.
The clips can be found at gmpartsdirect.com
The left part number is #15286776 and the right is #15286777
Thanks to the guys (and gals) at http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com
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Unless your car was having problems starting, stalling, or not having power, there's no reason to believe you need a fuel pump. You do NOT need a new fuel pump for a P0453 code - it's a vapor system code completely unrelated to the fuel delivery system. I used work in the group that made fuel pumps for Ford and analyzed thousands of warranty claims. A fuel pump repair can be costly. The part itself is not cheap, and the labor to do it requires draining and dropping the fuel tank. $850 is in the ballpark but seems high. I would ask for a breakdown on the repair to see what is involved.
There is an electrical connector (C305) located under the car almost under the drivers seat. This connector has numerous wires, one of which supplies power to the fuel pump. Some owners have had mosture, salt spray, etc get into those connections and cause problems.
A few owners that had stalling, no start, engine shut off as if the key were turned off, etc traced their problems to the connector C305. Try an internet search for the C305. Perhaps this is what the mechanic is talking about.
I doubt if the AC condensation would be able to travel that far and get into the connection. I think the vent tube is on the passenger side, not the drivers side.
thanks for the help
Car has been great to us, we love it.
One minor thing. I have begun to notice a humming sound and feeling coming through the front of the car, only occurs while in 4th gear, at medium throttle inputs, under light load (like climbing a hill) and only around 50-55mph.
I don't feel any slipping or difficulty keeping speed so I don't think it's internal to the transmission. My guess is a bad engine mount or transmission mount is allowing a specific vibrational frequency to come through the body.
Anyone had this happen?
Thanks.
Brian
Hope this helps...
.
With A/C off, the fans are not supposed to come on unless the engine crosses about 212 degrees F. At that point, only ONE fan is supposed to come on, until somewhere around 235*F.
If you aren't driving in heavy stop and go traffic, or towing, the fans would only come on once in a while.
If turning on the A/C immediately turns on one of the fans, that's a good sign the fans are working.
As far as the oil - the gages (sic) have NO way to know if your oil is "old". If your check engine light came on because your oil was old, it was extremely old, abusively so. I am NOT saying you abused your car - I am saying you do not get a Check Engine light due to old oil.
As far as the car stalling because the oil was LOW, how long had it been since you checked your oil level? You know, with the dipstick? Any car, even a brand new one should be checked periodically, at least monthly.
Whoever told you this car is "hard to diagnose" is either lying or doesn't know what they are doing. Sorry to be so blunt. The engines in the RDV (both 3.4 and 3.5) have been put into millions of cars/trucks/vans since their initial design came out in the late 1980's. The engine has been tuned, adjusted, enlarged, more controllers, etc., but it started its life back in 1988 as a 2.8 V6. The two fans come on in two stages, at two different temperatures. They can be turned on manually by a tech to test them, at any temperature. It's one of the easiest things to troubleshoot.
Does the fan now come on? Does it appear to spin fast? If "yes" and "yes" and the car still sits at 3/4 on the temp gauge, they didn't test the fan correctly, and just threw parts at your car.
Question: if it gets to 3/4 hot and you begin driving at a steady speed, at least 40mph or even take it on the highway, does the temp drop down again? If so, the fans are still part of the problem most likely. If the temp does not drop during steady, higher speed driving, then the cooling system is not working efficiently. Either the radiator needs a cleanout or there might be air in the system. Has any maintenance been done to the car lately? If so perhaps they didn't purge all the air.
Anyways, my A/C has been leaking refrigerant, I got it checked and filled once and it leaked out in
Yes the early years had more problems.
Hope it stays trouble free for a long while!
Brian
Good Luck.
The odometer and transmission gear indicator are always dim, like in night mode. The digital display under the tach is the same brightness at night (dim) but is much brighter during the day, so is easier to read in daylight. I replace the instrument unit thinking it would correct the problem, but no change.
Does anyone know for sure if this is a function of the BCM perhaps, meaning I would have to replace that in order to correct the problem?
Thanks for your help! Nick
Thanks,
Arthur
The temperature gauge on your dash is fed from a different Coolant Temperature Sensor than what the computer uses to know when to turn on the fans, how fast to idle the engine, how rich to run the A/F ratio, and many other important decisions it has to make based on how hot the engine is running.
So its very possible that the sensor for the dash gauge has gotten covered in coolant 'sludge', corroded, or electrical problem with it. It may be showing much hotter than your engine is actually running.
You would need a scan tool to see what temperature the computer is seeing. It should be generally around 190-210 (generalizing here). If the computer shows normal temperature, but your gauge is showing hot, that's your culprit.
If you can find a local small-shop mechanic, he'd probably charge you very little to hook up the scan tool for 5 minutes when you have your RDV nice and hot so he can check engine coolant temp.
So - in summary - the needle should not hang out near the red zone, that's not normal. BUT it may be a problem with incorrect reporting of the temperature rather than an engine that is actually running hot.
Well it should not stay near red zone, but it is common for it to go near there when stuck stopped in traffic on a warm day, then go down to normal when moving at a better pace.
thanks
deb
manual title
No, I do not "work for Buick." In fact, I do not work for any automotive company at all. I'm a corporate attorney. My wife drives a Nissan Murano and -- guess what -- I'm STILL driving my 2002 Buick Rendezvous. 96,000 miles on it as we speak.
I'm sorry your experience with your Buick was not as good as mine. But just because I haven't had as many problems as you -- you presume that I work for Buick?? Come on! I'm trying to give people my honest, truthful experience (MY experience) with my vehicle. I'm not saying that Buicks are problem-free. However, there is NO vehicle on the road today that is problem-free. Every manufacturer makes a few lemons. Mine, fortunately, was not one of them. Sorry if yours was.
We are definitely considering an Enclave in our future.