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Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?
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Comments
the Kmart version is the Mopar study version.
The Walmart version looks like the Champion labs version except for the inlet holes, so I'm not positive about that one...but it and the Super-tech look the same when looking in the outlet hole....as far as cheap filters go...the Walmart/Supertech gets my vote at the moment.
Probably gonna start using the PureOnes after I use up the AC's I have on the shelf right now though
tom
filter can looks thicker, (eyeball comparison)
has a leaf spring tensioner, Kmart version did not
I would not believe that Honda would spec-out a filter media for their filters that would fray and introduce errant fibers into the lubrication system.
It's a shame he let such a silly, amateurish observation taint a rather labor intensive review and comparison.
--- Bror Jace
I have to know something about filters in order to do a good job of designing media, but it's not like I worked for a filter manufacturer. I can't quote you center tube diameters, pleat height, pleat count, relief valve pressures, etc., etc., for all the various filters out there.
We usually work on developing the paper for one specific filter, and then the customer may take that same paper grade and use it in other filters without consulting us. That is certainly their prerogative.
I have been to all of the major filter manufacturers' plants, and I have learned a few things about how filters are built, but I am far from being a filter expert.
tom
This is interesting, and a little disturbing.
There are sometimes three sets of specs, OEM-Engine Plant, OEM-Replacement, and Aftermarket.
I haven't actually seen all three sets of specs for a particular filter, but our customers, the filter manufacturers, have told us this. It could just be the level of testing required on the part of the filter manufacturer rather than an actual difference in the specs. I wish I knew more about this, and I will try to find out.
tom
Maybe our competitor marks the felt side of the sheet instead of the wire side. Just don't know.
If the ink lines are only apparent where the two ends come together, maybe it's just their sealing technique that makes them appear there. I'll bet that's it.
tom
I'm still checking in about every day, though.
I have been busier than a one-legged man in a butt-kicking contest at work lately, so I haven't had time to do a couple things that I promised to do, but I haven't forgotten them. I am going to try to find a pic of some filter paper taken through a microscope, and I am also going to try to find out more about the different specs for OEM-engine plant, OEM-replacement, and Aftermarket.
Tom
Does any one have any idea how drain back valves are tested??? Not so much interested in whether they seal well, which they should, but how many stops etc. are they tested for, since everyone says you should change the filter at least every 6 months or(Amsoil 12,500 miles) how many times is the valve supposed to be good for?????
Thanks for the advice.
(Well, it IS a Toyota Corolla in disguise...)
Not disagreeing wdt that's certainly sound advice.
http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters.shtml
Take a look at it, nothing scientific but interesting.
Bottgers: You can read anything on the Internet (Look at the Sludge Board) so your statement : "I read in a study somewhere on the internet where the Mobil 1 was ranked the best, with the Puralator Pure One ranking a very close second" Carries no weight.
Later
tom
I have used all three and I use primarily Amsoil(which I like and is cheaper then Mobil 1), and Pure One on one car that I had a problem with the Amsoil filter on. However, quite honestly, I really like Mobil 1, can't say why exactly , oil analysis seemed to come back with fewer dirt and wear particles but all three filters have given me great results when changed at 6 months and oil once a year.
the mobil1 filter for my mazda costs $9.99 whereas the amsoil filter (sdf-13) costs $13.99 +s/h
maybe you were referring to amsoil being cheaper if one were to get it at dealer price.
k&n claims their air filter (or filtercharger as they like to call it) is the best (but obviously).
on their website they have a filter comparison chart where they list the amsoil foam filter as being the worst compared to a dirty k&n filter, a paper filter and a clean k&n filter.
any comments on this?
The Amsoil foam performed well as indicated by oil analysis however I no longer use them for two reasons. Like K&N they are supposed to last a lifetime, a real pain to clean and re-oil, sorry but you either under oil or over oil the foam after cleaning and the oil flows down into the filter box and is a mess to clean up etc, a pain in my opinion and after about 3 years the foam started to decompose due to heat and washing and because I found that the OEM air filters (not true of oil) but the OEM air actually filter as well as the foam filters based upon oil analysis. And, the OEM appear to filter better then aftermarkets Purolators etc., they seem to be fuzzy paper as opposed to clean cut pressed paper which does not seem to filter as well.
I have been tempted to try the K&N air charger system (not the foam OEM replacement as I have been there before with the Amosil and I guess I consider them similar) , but on my TOY however the hype about more air flow is useless unless one alters the exhaust system as well
and I am not willing to do that now.
SO, K&N says their filter is better with better air flow and trapping dirt, well, my IMHO the hassle of cleaning and re-oiling is not worth it! The OEM replacements do a great job based upon my personal experience with oil analysis.
My saying the the Mobil 1 filter was rated the best with the Pure One rating a close seceond may not mean much to you, but this test was conducted by an independant lab, which means a lot more more to me than the heresay posted in this topic.
armtdm
The K&N filter only needs to be cleaned every 100,000 miles. Considering this alone makes it worthwhile because you'd have to change out the OEM filters at least five times in this many miles. I've also noticed an increase in fuel economy with every car I've used a K&N in. I've seen anywhere from 1-3 MPG increase, depending on the car, and type of driving.
tks for your informative comments. i was also leaning towards the perception that OEM paper filters did a comparatively good job of filtering air, and that the re-oiling and cleaning process was a pain. one could never get the "right" amount of oil and either over or under oiling was bound to happen.
i installed my K&N air filter last week, so i wont bother about that right now ...i'll cross the bridge when it comes.
bottgers:
IMO, 50,000 miles would be a more realistic figure for cleaning a K&N air filter instead of 100,000
If you really want to read the results of this lab study, you can search for it just like I had to. I don't remember the site address.
sdayalani
Even if you clean the K&N every 50 grand, it still beats the he11 out of OEM filters!
Is this what you were referring to?? My only point is that it would be helpful to present the referenced information with your post.
No, actually it's not. The one I read was conducted in '98 or '99, and was a fairly lengthy article (5-6 pages). It included how the test was performed, gave a breakdown of how each filter was constructed, and finished with rankings. It gave highly recommended filters, and filters to stay away from (Fram amoung others).
seelig
I'm not saying it's felt like I had an increase in fuel economy when using K&N filters, I HAVE had an increase, I've seen the numbers and have done the math. Numbers don't lie! I can't vouch for an increase in HP, as I've never had one of my cars dynoed, and 3-5 HP is really tough to feel in a car.
Ford has changed their philosophy on filtration (for the better, in my opinion) and has gone to a more efficient type of paper than they used a few years ago.
They used to emphasize filter life at the expense of fitler efficiency, and the paper in the old filters was a very "open" sheet, with low efficiency. Those filters would last way beyond the length of time that anyone who cared about their vehicle would dare to leave them on the vehicle, but they just didn't have much efficiency.
About four years ago or so, Ford increased the efficiency requirement of their filters and got more in line with the other major brands as far as efficiency. I think they have now struck a nice balance between life and efficiency.
If you want to go back many years, probably at least 15 years, Ford made their own filters. These were "partial flow" filters as opposed to the "full flow" filters that almost everyone is using today. These parial flow filters had some kind of very coarse filtration through a "doughnut" of some porous material that would only catch the very largest particles. About 85% of the oil at any given time would be going through this coarse filtration. The remaining 15% of the flow went through some cotton batting that gave very highly efficient filtration.
The way I understand it, when Ford wanted to stop making their own filters, no one was willing to produce the partial flow filters like the ones Ford had made themselves, so they had to go to a full flow type filter.
Long answer, but the bottom line is... the Motorcraft filters are good filters.
tom
Anyway, I've heard tales about these cotton gauze filters letting a fair amount of really fine particles through. When I take mine off in another month or so (Thansgiving weekend, usually) I'll thoroughly inspect the inside of my filter elbow and the pipe it connects to for residue. I'm committed to keeping my intake on this car as it went 100,000 miles without requiring a drop of top-off oil, regardless ... but finding even a trace of reside (I made sure it started out clean) will make me a lot less likely to buy a K&N cotton gauze filter for my next car.
--- Bror Jace