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Where did you see the shimmy with the tires off? If you saw the rotor wobbling, and you already changed the rotors themselves, the hub must be bent or you have a really bad bearing!
With all that you have changed, I cannot think of anything else that would cause a wobble in the drive train.
A much more subtle problem while driving, which may or may not be related, is harder to describe: something seems slightly uneven. My first thought was to check the tire pressure to see if one tire was much lower than the others, which turned out not to be the case. Could the wheels really need rebalancing on a car this new? Or is this something in the engine?
Could be something as simple as a loose plug wire, or such. Have you seen a drop in fuel economy?
Just fixed an Accent (which is a totally different engine) the other day where one of the ignition coils failed. 5 minute repair, covered under warranty. I mention this because the problem first started similar to your symptoms. Weak spark caused the engine to run rough on first start (rich condition) and idle rough once warmed up.
Then the coil totally died and became very obvious!
I figured a trip to the dealer is inevitable, but I want to know as much as I can before I go in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM2u7lWscKg&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Esharkracing%2- - - Ecom%2Facecart%2Fbin%2Fshop%2Ecgi%3Faction%3Dview%26itemID%3Dledmirrordiy%26cate- - - %3D070000000&feature=player_embedded
I have two Hyundai that use the same filter. I buy them ten at a time from the local dealer and get a discount. Actually costs less than the Wix, but about double the Fram (which is pure junk in this application.) Don't take my word for it. Cut open a Hyundai filter and a Fram filter then decide which one you want protecting your engine.
BTW, at one time a few years ago, Delco made a filter for the Hyundai 2.0L Elantra that was a dead ringer for the OEM Hyundai filter. A couple of years ago Delco changed the design and the replacement was not nearly as well made.
Pep Boys mentioned to me something about Strut joints or mountings being loose -- but not dangerous to drive. Could someone tell me what that means and the cost to fix???
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Anyway, I took it to the service center today and they insist that all 2011 Elantras are like this. "It's a solid fitted piece that we can't really do anything about."
Everything else in the car is so tight that this really bothers. Of course, the dealer is sold out of the 2011 and I can't personally verify that "all Elantras are made this way" since there are none on the lot. Any other owners out there notice this? Is this really a universal problem?
Just to be clear for anybody else that comes across this -- I'm not talking about the floor mats. It's the actual carpet upholstery that is bulging up. Where the carpeting meets the back seat -- it looks like a kid who's wearing his dad's suit. Just doesn't fit right.
Looks like a manufacturing error to me. But, dealer says it's "normal."
I will have to look at mine to see if it has the same issue when I return from vacation!
If I were you I'd go back to the dealer, and ask the service manager to accompany you as you both inspect a few 2011 Elantras on their lot (once they get some in), and compare the rear carpet to your car's. And tell the service manager you want your carpet fixed/replaced under warranty. If they won't do it, tell the service manager you want to talk with the Hyundai district customer service manager (or whatever they are called).
You could also try a different dealer... one that is more interested in satisfying its customers.
The car is driving good now. I was hearing a very bad grinding noise.
Do you think there could be any problems without the two screws?
REMOVAL
Drain the engine coolant.
Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) cooler hoses.
Disconnect the fan motor connector
Separate the air conditioner condenser with radiator.
Remove the heat shield.
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Remove the air duct and make the task space.
Remove the reservoir tank and make the task space. (10 mm bolts)
Remove the radiator upper bracket (10mm bolts) then pull up the radiator.
Remove the cooling fan from the radiator.
INSTALLATION
Install the cooling fan to the radiator.
Install the radiator at the air conditioner condenser. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Connect the fan motor connector.
Install the upper and lower radiator hoses, and ATF cooler hoses.
Fill with engine coolant.
Start engine and check for leaks.
I won't even go into all the other costs of just routine maintenance, which are also very high (ok, belts replaced: $750.)
I am warning you that Hyundai's, in my opinion, are financial disasters waiting to happen. I am a private school teacher, and the huge costs to me are taking major hit on my savings.
Put simply: I will never buy a Hyundai again, and I advise anyone here not to do so either.
I'll probably always buy Hyundais, to each their own.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I owned 2 jeep yj's over 20 years,traded the last for a 2003 kia rio wagon when my wife and I had kids.The Kia has been faily reliable with just over 90,000 kms on it.
Back in 88 my wife bought a 85 hyundai pony,It has 157,000 kms on it,which is low for the year.People make jokes about it and I understand its a cheaply made car but its been a great car as a dailydriver,not much has really gone wrong with it besides a cracked distibutor cap causing arcing and the pistons wanting to turn at different times(sounded like a hammer on the hood).
Sadly the old pony is starting to blow blue,and I had trouble passing aircare this year,its also a little beat up from some accidents so I've been looking at used cars most of the summer looking to replace my DD.
I looked at another Kia wagon,subaru outback,ford focus wagon,but I've decided on another Hyundai,a 2000 elantra wagon,getting it inspected this weekend,already test drove it,ran straight and true,cosmetically its a 11 year old car but I think this car will be as reliable as my last 26 year old hyundai.The only thing that concerns me is the power windows failing,but I've read that about the ford focus as well.
I think Hyundai make good cars,If I could afford a new accent or elantra I'd get one.Everyone has their opinion I hope you get a car your happy with ezra,make mine a Hyundai
Teresa
Personally I don't care for the car. I'm 6'3" & 215# & always feel cramped. On the other hand it beats the tar out of the gas milage on the truck !!
It's been 3 or 4 years since we've had any issues with the engine that wasn't minor (hoses being replaced, etc) but recently the engine has had a hard time starting. When I opened the oil compartment to put new oil in I saw a few ounces of white-yellow goo on the back of the oil cap. In my experience this means a blown head gasket or a cracked head.
Traditionally people would just replace the car in this condition, but I'm much more keen on the idea of just replacing the engine to get another 10 years out of the car. What engine replacement options do I have for this car? Are there new engines out there I can buy for it? Is there an engine I can buy that will give me more power and be fresh and new and good? Should I replace the transmission at the same time? As I stated above it is an auto. My father-in-law was all excited about us getting an Accord VTech engine but then said it wouldn't be possible since it's an automatic transmission. I don't really know why.
Also, what is the presiding wisdom on how long a car can run under these current conditions? Does a few ounces of white goo mean I have a few hours left before it will die, or do I have another 10,000 miles on it potentially? I realize there's no exact science here so guestimates work fine for me. I do think I noticed a tiny amount of goo in the same place 6 months ago or so.
Thanks for your help everyone!
If it were me, I wouldn't put that much money into a 12 year old car, one that was designed in the mid-'90s and fairly crude by modern standards. One alternative to consider is to replace the car. I just checked within 100 miles of me using a well-known Internet car locator service and found 3 2001-2002 Elantras with under 125k miles for under $4,000 asking price. These cars are a generation newer than your 2000 and IMO are far superior cars. One of these was a 2002 GT hatch, which is a very nice car for the money (I have a 2004 GT hatch). Or you could look for other cars in that price range.
Thanks for your help
The car has developed an intermittant shifting problem. When shifting, the RPMs increase to 4000-4500+, and accelleration is next to nothing. I let up off the gas, and things recover until I shift to the next gear. It acts as though I had the clutch peddle half way down.
The problem is very intermittant. It occurs one day, then is fine for 2-3 weeks. A couple times, the Elantra was fine the first part of a shoping trip, had the problem in the middle, then was fine again the last part of the trip.
My mechanic didn't find any obvious problems during a quick inspection. We both kinda feel that if the clutch was the problem, then the problem would occur frequently. Any ideas?