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I searched the TSB summaries at NHTSA.GOV. There's nothing related to using the remote to unlock passenger doors, although there is one for the tailgate. I know some people have had problems with the tailgate mechanism sticking. Fortunately there's a little access panel on the inside that you can get at it with lubricant.
To theraccoon, Let me know how it goes when you open up the passenger side door and lube everything.
-elissa
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
Elissa
Car also pulls to the right and they keep telling me the alignment is in spec..
Anyone have a good reliable dealer in central NJ they can recommend..
or maybe I need a leaky oil change!!!
Thanks
Since the other doors lock and unlock just fine it's not the batteries in the remote. There's only a single receiver in the 1st Gen CR-V (in the driver's door). The receiver is getting the signal, but the one door isn't unlocking.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I can tell you that my 1998 Integra had a similar buzzing at speed between 3500 and 4000 RPMS. After taking off each heat shield individually to test, I finally found the issue.
Honda manufactures their exhaust headers with a dual walled design on VTEC and i-VTEC motors. Mainly the design is for cooling the external surface of the exhaust header to keep unwanted heat out of the engine compartment. When/if the inner wall comes loose (a common problem on the Integra) you will get a very annoying buzzing coming from the engine compartment at speed and at certain, specific, RPMS.
If your buzzing noise occurs only after the car is warmed up and starts at let's say 2500 RPMS and dissapates at around 3000-3500 RPMS, you may wish to investigate this possibility with your local mechanic/dealer. It's the likely culprit.
btw - I don't think I listed my previous post as anything but my opinion. Now you may think I'm full of BS, but itemizing where you've lived or stating your opinion on the overall national behavior of the country as you understand it, means little...or little to me anyway. Just tell me you don't agree and move on. Oh, and I disagree with you. : )
jp
I'm glad. If you agreed with me I'd be worried about my own mental state.
JM2C
I have a landscaping trailer for a few Dad sized toys and was concerned about the class I tow capacity. The trailer itself is about 800 pounds which would put the full load at or near the 1500 lbs. capacity. It's normally attached to my Toy Taco, but in case the family is joining me, I was curious about issues in this area.
If anyone could report on problems they've had...
jp
I am thinking about Lemon law today. This is terrible experience. I should be happy and enjoy the new car after I bought. I should not suffer my time loss and emotional on this problem car. What a shame on Honda "quality" car!
Thinking of buying a CRV, but after knowing this problem, I need think again..
Hopefully she'll be back to let us know what happens with round two or her Honda Suit; which is on appeal from Honda.
At least your dealer didn't try to convince you it was designed to do that as a safety feature; in case you fall asleep at the wheel the CR-V would not head into oncoming traffic.
Good luck.
This V is my third car and I found out when I made my Accord purchase, I realized it was pulling to the right the 2nd day I had it. I had to take it back to dealer for that service, which is inconvenient to do. I think the alignment isn't always checked when new vehicles arrive to the dealer and are getting prepped for sale. When I purchased this V, I had asked the dealership to check the alignment before I pick it up. Therefore, I was pleased with it and didn't have to go back.
agree with racoon, sounds like the wheels are out of balance - and you probably already checked the tire pressure.
I'm not sure if one plant or the other has had any difference in the fires that have occurred.
Thank you both for your post. The service guy did say that it was designed to do that as a safety feature; in case you fall asleep at the wheel the CR-V would not head into oncoming traffic.
This is lie. Who do not want the car drive straight? What about the car hit the car in the next right lane. It only takes about 2 sec. Cut into the next lane even after the alignment. The steering wheel sit slightly tilt to the right in the rest position. This car must have problem.
I should enjoy the weekend outdoor by the new vehicle. Not spend my time at service shop. This is not right. I am very disappointed about this car. Never image that happen on brand new car.
I was just checking to see if anyone else in the forum has had a compressor fail so early on the 2002 and on CR-Vs? It was working one day and not the next. The dealer replaced in under warranty as expected in 1 day so no complaints here, but it still seemed a bit early for this to happen?
Ask them if they'll put that statement in writing on dealership letterhead. My guess is that they'd refuse or make an excuse about putting anything in writing.
In the back of your Owners Manual is the contact information for Honda (not the dealer). It might be worth calling them to complain about the problem. Make sure you tell them what the dealer's service person said about it being a safety feature.
Good luck.
Thanks
Wheel balance has nothing to do with this.
just traded my '04 Solara (had it six months) for an '04 CR-V EX and picked it up yesterday (wife is expecting and it would be pretty hard getting a baby in and out of the back of a two-door coupe). anyway, noticed a clicking in the dash when i slow to a stop... anyone else experience this???
The car will automatically lock-out certain transmission selections (like reverse) when slowing to a stop. There is a solenoid (tiny little actuator) in the dash that sorta flips the switch. You are hearing the sound of it flipping.
regards,
kyfdx
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It's a great car, you do NOT qualify for the lemon law AT ALL - in any state, but the dealerships I find detestable in their customer service and treatment of new owners. You may have to continue wasting your time there until they get it right. Or, maybe save yourself some time and check your tire pressure - that may be your culprit.
Somehow, I think Honda will slip a bit in the JD Powers initial quality surveys this year...
Sorry I sound bitter but this is something the dealerships are supposed to take care of before delivering the car to consumers! I find an out of spec alignment to be dangerous, regardless of the direction in which it's out of alignment.
Elissa
Thanks for the post. The tire pressure was already checked. The alignment checked and adjusted. It still PULL (not sligtly drift) to the right. I am not comfortable to drive it. Though I just notice the post alignment result still show rear right chamber and TOE out of spec. The sterring wheel seems slightly slam to the right at its rest position. I am very unhappy about this car. My previous cars does not have this problem. I never expect to spend that much time on brand new car.
It CAN be fixed and it is NOT normal or a safety feature. Insist that your dealer fix the problem, and ask them to contact Honda. You should also call Honda yourself and complain about the problem and the dealer's response.
The sterring wheel seems slightly slam to the right at its rest position.
You're saying the steering wheel is slightly turned to right when the front wheels are pointing straight ahead? This can be adjusted and is probably not related to the pull to the right problem.
My last car had a steering wheel that was turned to the left when the wheels were straight. I asked the dealer to fix it. They did...from that point on the steering wheel was slightly turned to the right when the wheels were straight. I didn't complain about it again, just got used to it. That car never pulled right or left. And no, it wasn't a Honda.
Elissa
If I have a flat on the road, is it safe to use the Bidgestone tire to replace the GoodYear tire to drive to the next service station? Since CRV only kicks in 4WD when it detects slippage, would it cause any problem to the transmission?
#13267 of 13278 Using different brand of tire as spare for CRV AWD by ddpstc Aug 19, 2004 (8:25 am)
I am trying a CR-V EX tomorrow. Have been reading these boards. SCARY
I am trying not to let all that is written get to me
Is this vehicle a very bad choice
My other choice - tried it today - seat fatigue right away plus hard ride
Need a vehicle - want a SUV - small side
I would like to add this to this thread and you guys may prove if it is different or not between 2002 and the 2003 models:
Our salesperson told us that our new CRV has/had special break-in oil so don't change it too soon. Should wait til 6000 miles or more.
We had an 95Accord and didn't hear anything about any special break-in oil.
Does this special oil have any fire prone ingredients in it?
TJ
Thanks for the post and suggestion. I am working with dealership to try to get problem fixed. If it is not fixed, I will call Honda USA to complain about the problem. I definitely do not want to tense my arms for every second to get the car to drive straight.
Why don't Honda engineers follow Toyota engineers and design the engine with oil filter sticks out in the open space to allow vision inspection of the oil filter opening after removal the old filter (to make sure that the oil gasket and residues are completely removed)?
After I heard of the CRV fires, I no longer consider Honda in my list of new car shopping unless Honda changes its engine design to make acess to oil filter easier.
I did my oil change five times already and never had a problem.
Visual inspection of the oil filter opening is almost impossible - do not agree, again not very convenient, but possible (even at home) to inspect it quite thoroughly.
Put the "V" on the ramps (5" high is enough), crawl under, put the working light on the right - and you will see everything in detail - also you may inspect it by hand by touch.
During oil/filter change (every 5K) - I unscrew the oil plug ( oil is hot) and leave the oil dripping in a pan overnight.
Next day, wearing protective glasses, I crawl underneath, unscrew the filter, and protect filter with a small piece of paper rug (oil is cold).
Quickly unscrew the filter and immediately put it vertically (with the hole up). Usually you have
several drops of oil which easily absorbed by the rugs (to be sure you may wrap the powertrain bar rubber boot with the rug too - just in case). You would have practically NO spills using this
method - just leave oil to drip overnight - most oil will drip through the oil plug hole ( not much oil left inside the filter).
My wife's 1998 CRV's been having a problem with the power door locks making these clicking sounds for about 8 months now. When I spoke to Honda, they had said come in and for $200-$300 they will check and see what the problem may be... or since it's just clicking I can live with it.
Well this morning I decided borrow her car and found that the passenger side door lock would not open. After one of my errands I then had a problem getting in through the driver side. The remote (which i did use to open the hatch for testing) was working and I could hear the motor clicking but nothing happened.
If i try to put in the key and turn it.. i met a lot of resistance and would not bring up the plunger. After a couple of minutes, I realized if i turn the key and pull the latch the driver side door would open.. unfortunately this didn't work on the passenger side.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be wrong here or if there is at least a quick fix so that I can disable or get around the power door locks?
regards,
kyfdx
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We have an Odyysey that seemed to have that problem. We don't notice it much anymore (48k miles, with a different set of tires than the original). Just had the 45K service and had balance and alignment, no pulling, really (more in a minute), but still a shake at 75+MPH (which is not a ridiculous speed in a 70MPH zone).
You all probably already know this, but when *accelerating* in a front wheel drive car, you will *tend* to have some torque that may pull you right. If the car won't cruise flat and level in a straight line, though, I'd be annoyed and it's not "normal". They said with the Odyysey that there was... what? A five second rule? Ten seconds? If you are cruising straight and let go of the wheel, if you're not in the next lane in 5 seconds then it's "within spec."
I also agree with the guy who said to get it in writing... anytime you have a problem and they say it's normal, not just with this problem, anything that doesn't sound right to you... get it in writing.
After perusing all of these postings, FIRE BE DAMNED... I'll be looking for my new CR-V within a week or so and plan to keep reading this forum, so keep the posts coming.
It's called torque steer. And I've felt it in my 1st Gen CR-V, but only when accelerating VERY hard. After all, the CR-V has a pretty puny engine.
If the car won't cruise flat and level in a straight line, though, I'd be annoyed and it's not "normal".
The problem that some CR-Vs have is not a 5-10 second "drift" into the next lane, but that if you're driving along at a steady speed and release the wheel you're immediately headed into the ditch...not a drift at all. And while driving along at steady speed you have to hold pressure on the steering wheel to keep it from turning right.
That's not normal and it's not a feature; it's a problem.
The first gen CR-V had a common problem with PTTR (pull to the right) syndrome. The 2nd Gen CR-V doesn't seem to have the same infection rate, but we do see an outbreak from time to time.
To paraphrase a recent road test comment by a major magazine (really applied to the new civic LX).."Something new from Honda..a looser"!!!