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the theory is with a bad socket, a poor supply connection is formed to the bulb, and the bulb cycles on and off a lot, and these cycles cause the bulb's filament to fail early. either that, or more simply and likely, the bulb seems to be bad, when in reality it is good, and the socket is bad, and sometimes it looses it's connection to the back of th bulb. either take / observation works for me with 1 socket bad.
but that's rare, and would be reported as "my left tail light keeps blowing", or something like that.
however, this poster indicated one headlight failed, then the other soon after, then a tailbulb soon after that.
to me, this is suspicious and suggests a possible problem with the alternator and / or battery.
if the voltage regulator on the alternator is bad, the unit is going to be putting out too much voltage. the battery i think can do some transient filtering of a flakey alternator, but can't do anything for a steady-state over-voltage condition.
i think a bad alternator can ruin a good battery. shifty? you or anyone else chime in.
anyway, if the replacement bulbs blow, personally - i'd go right for the alternator.
if at idle, maybe there is an idle relearn procedure which needs to be done.
Good Luck.. MNF
Good Luck
Honda spec is 1 qt. of oil loss per 1000 miles. Most won't see that, but there are other K-series engines that get really close to the upper limit of the spec.
Most common cause is improper break-in, but at least in 2 cases, Honda forgot to put the oil control ring on one of the pistons. One guy was able to get them to fix it for free. While the other tore up the engine to find the missing ring. Honda denied his claim because he tore it up him self, even though he knew what he was doing. This CR-V is probably going to be my last Honda. A manufacturer who does not respect DIYer is not going to get my $$$.
Despite what many say or think, every engine burns oil. That is the way it works. The oil coats the walls and then most of it is scraped back into the sump, but a thin film stays behind. After a thousand thin films it all adds up. In a looser engine the lsot oil is replaced by water, acids, and other combustion by-products. But, in a tightly sealed engine, the by-products don't collect in the oil, and it gives you an impression that you never lose any oil. In extreme cases, people have more oil after 5000 miles than what they started with.
In you case, is this your first long distance trip in this vehicle? Is most of your driving short/local drives? If they are, then the oil never warmed up enough to burn off any of the by-products that collected in the oil. Driving 450 miles was enough to boil off the water and other stuff leaving you with low oil.
As a side note, you should always have a quart of oil on hand. You could have avoided the tow truck chrage. The oil light comes on when the oil is quart below the low mark on the dip stick.
By the way, did the car refuse to rev past 3000 RPM recently?
Well, in 44K miles on my 2003 EX, I never had to add oil between changes. Of course, it could have burned a little, just not anywhere near the fill line.
Keep the Synth in there. Lucas stabilizer is probably a snake oil.
I'm getting suspicious of moisture getting into the differential via the breather tube.
Anyone else notice a rain connection with these problems?
I am in Buffalo, NY and use 0W-20 all year round. If he is in Northern OH, 0W-20 is what the doctor ordered. We get into negatives at night in the winter, and 0W is perfect for the morning start ups.
Besides, switching to 0W from 5W won't hurt the engine.
Personally I would switch in the summer to 5 and 30 or so...if doing lots of highway driving, which I do.....
acarperson, "Honda CR-V Tires & Wheels" #36, 1 Nov 2006 3:08 pm
Groovy, like wow... :shades:
That would be something you have to talk to the parts guy on the phone. Even though the website may list the mirror assembly as one, I know they come apart with just half dozen screws. Every single part can be purchased, just depends if the dealer wants to order it. Like the fog light switches are only supposed to be sold with the fog light kits, but many dealers will sell the fog light switches alone.
As a long term solution, you need to teach your wife how to park. Maybe take her to an empty parking lot and have her perform parking maneuver a few times. Then on the streets. We always need to hone our skills as drivers.
He said the alternator would cost "about $500" and the water pump "about $600" installed. He would only charge for the one that was causing the noise. He would wave the $45 diagnostics fee if I went ahead with the repair.
Does this seem plausible and are those prices in line with what they should cost to replace?
Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Steve
Click here to go there
Selling for $253.50 + $17.65 shipping. You might be able to get the dealer's parts dept. to match the price.
I am also curious to see what the sound difference is with the Honda sub.
I have Gen 2 with the OEM sub. If you are looking for a sub that makes the alarms go off and shakes the glasses in the cupboard as you drive by, look elsewhere.
Otherwise, it adds nice bass to the tunes and lets your speakers concentrate on the mids and tweets on the highs without distortion.