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Far better than the stock BS's and the handing is excellent with the added 1/2 inch Sect. width.
600 UTOG, TempA,Trac.A
Regards,
OW
By the way, the car was assembled in Japan.
If anyone knows what is under these color coded bolts, I would like to know. Any thoughts appreciated. I am hoping this is not the front oil seal as I have heard that is quite a bit of money.
I've owned Hondas since '74 & I've never had one that would have made the purchase of an EW worthwhile.
No matter... sold it after 6.5 years and 106K miles... without ever making a claim.
Wish I still had that $1000....
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Reattaching the clip that holds the bulb is very difficult as you really can't see the slot. It's trial and error. You are supposed to put a special grease on the bulb contacts before attaching the harness
$2450 is a lot of money, though. How many repairs are likely to cost more than that? The A/C comes to mind. But I think the highest amount I've seen quoted is in the $3k range, and Honda's seems to be splitting the cost on that if the mileage is below 100k and one has evidence of regular service.
What else? The engine seems to be bullet proof.
Regards,
OW
I don't think timing chains are forever. My 2003 CRV with 75000 km just had an "engine light" problem; was found to be due to "valve timing is off" and 'replaced chain and sprockets'. Not an inexpensive fix but the light has gone out...
Sort of like an automatic transmission... It's supposed to last the life of the vehicle, but that doesn't mean it will...
The last chain I had to replace was on a '70 Ford Galaxie, so what do I know?
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I have a 2006 Honda CR-V Ex and we get a lot of freezing rain wet snow here in the east. When it's cold and there's ice or snow the first time I press on the breaks there is very little reaction from the car, i.e. the brakes don't work, if you forget about this it is quite alarming.
My practice now is when I pull out of my driveway I start driving down the street and do a hard break to warm up the breaks. Once I do this the breaks are fine for the rest of the drive. This can't be normal, several times I've been looking for a "soft" place to crash when I hit the breaks again and it stops.
I've mentioned it to the dealer but of course they can't find anything, problem is if I've driven there I've already warmed up the breaks. It usually only happens in the morning but sometimes in the evening if the car has been sitting out in the cold weather for a while.
Last week, we took the car to the dealer from whom we bought it who saw no problem but never actually took the car out for a test ride - duh. My husband then brought it to our local mechanic who drove it in a snow-covered cemetery and experienced the scary problem first hand. His impression was that it has something to do with the ABS brakes kicking in too soon? Possibly needing a computer adjustment? Anyone know what might cause this problem or have suggestions?
I think our warranty expired around 36,000 miles. I wonder if the car always had this problem but we didn't find out until it snowed. I suppose we have no recourse either? Thanks!
#1 Your tires are probably junk by now and were rated poorly for snow/ice. Check the tire model at tire rack for review. My '08 CR-V Bridgestones were last place out of 35 tires for all seasons.
#2 Buy dedicated snow tires with rims.
You will see the difference.
#3 Replace the All Seasons with high-rated rubber.
Regards,
OW
I have followed the manual and tried at least a dozen times and it still says 50% .
Called the closest dealer 120 km away and he said to try it with the engine off until it starts blinking . Well, that doesn't work and the manual says to have it in the On 11 position . There are six steps to follow in the maual and I have done everyting it says to but cannot get it back to 100.
My previous vehicle was a Chev Uplander van and it was SO easy. Just push and hold a button and it would return to 100%.
Has anyone here had the same problem and can perhaps give some ideas on this. I don't want to have to make an appointment that far out of town and pay a dealer for what should be a very simple process.
I have always changed my own oil and filter in every vehicle I have owned and don't want to start paying someone else to do it just to get it reset.
__________________
2007 CR-V , AWD purchased with 22K km Oct 20 , 2010
I still don't understand the whole thing. Having survived 3 teenagers numerous $hitbox cars as well as my own, we've only used snow tires once (on an old volvo wagon that came with them). We've had accords, camrys, corollas, jeep, windstar, grand caravan and NEVER had a problem braking with "All weather tires." A couple of these cars had >200,000 miles on them. Snow tires are a pain - they have to be changed and stored. What's the best all weather tire? Anyone know? Thanks again.
Check Tire rack and surveys for All-Season Tires. I'll check and post later.
I have the Kuhmo's.
Regards,
OW
link title
Looks like the answer to you question is Michelin LTX M/S2. Should stick like glue in snow and rain and save the winter tire change.
Probably $200 x4 installed. Now, you can shop based on dry season so do not need the top-rated rubber in winter since you went for the snows.
I went with 245R17 Kuhmo Road ventures which shaved $50 off per tire and are good enough. Nice in the snow.
I always go up one size for replacements. The CR-V handles fantastic with the extra section width!
Regards,
OW
I have a 2003 CRV (just over 100K miles), and the windshield washer nozzles aren't pushing out the fluid very well at all. I'm only getting a small area of coverage on the windshield, and it's really frustrating during snowy weather, what with salt and such.
At any rate, does anyone have possible issues/solutions for this (hopefully avoiding replacing the motor or other components)? I've got plenty of fluid in the reservoir, so that is not an issue.
All thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
Can you hear the motor sound powerful? Does the rear hatch washer work ok?
George
Possibilities: Bulbs are just high beam; fuses for low beam burnt out (removing the fuses to check in near impossible).
That is not to say that hi and/or can't be handled with 2 tabs as they are. I only mentioned in case u recalled yours having three. Then the fuse or circuit breaker would be next logical check if both lights have no lo beam.
While more expensive than OEM, have you tried Sylvania Silverstars? They are not blue, but many blues are gimmick anyway just painted blue and have less life.
SS come with a one year wty, and keep your bill as more than once I have had to replace them. Be very careful to not touch the glass with anything, your fingers, the edge of the opening etc, as this will create a hot spot and cause them to blow even faster still.
In some cars it is a pain to change, but Silverstars do work noticeably better.
First though I would make sure your old ones are working properly...or better still, have the Siverstars there to try when u remove the ones in there now.
hey guys first off i bought my 2010 crv 2wd automatic in san jose,ca 10
months ago with 11 miles on it. i broke it in correctly and everything.
about the 4th month in the powersteering started to leak and i brought it in
and the honda dealership replaced it under warranty and replace the whole powersteering system.
i know how much power and torque the crv has and now it does accelerate as quick and lost tons of power and they say its normal what can i do?
i was thinking about putting it on a dyno and showing them.
any help is greatly appeciated please and thank you
"Intermittent low power during acceleration"
It is an ECM software upgrade. I asked them to do it during the 10k service.
It is way better now.
Thanks for you post. I have just discovered the same rattling noise under my 2010 Honda CRV. It is quite worrisome. I thought it was a differential problem, transmission or any other costly repair. I looked under the car and there is quite an accumulation of ice. We recently had heavy winter rain in our part of Quebec. It was followed by a flash freeze during the night. When I started the car in the morning, I heard clunking sound. Warmer weather is forecasted for the next few days so I hope the problem goes away !
I am a life long Honda owner. We currently own two CRVs (2007 and 2010).
The 2007 (built in Japan) had the rear differential problem and WE had to pay for it to be fixed! It did the vibrating thing whenever we backed up and turned the wheel right from the get go, brought it in several months later and the dealer said we had to get it fixed. Since then though no problems with that car. The 2010 has been terrible! The battery went dead (not our fault) after 200 miles and we just had the starter replaced! It is brand new! The dealer paid for both, but I buy Honda to NOT have to go through this. Honda has probably lost me (a 25 year fan) as a customer.
I've got that. What was the fix? Expensive? Thanks.