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Comments
Pretty hard to advise much more here on email without not being there and being able to discuss in person and see the car and the old and new tires under consideration.
If the spare is full sized, and since it is a 2012 car, you probably don't have that many miles on the originals I would use it. If it was my car and I had 10000 or less miles and if the spare is not full sized, I would buy one new same brand /model /size tire and call it a day.
Hope that helps.
http://autos.aol.com/article/fluid-flush-fallacy/
Regards:
Oldbearcat
When the car was last serviced in May 2011 they told me I would need front brake pads and rotors resurfaced next time I came in. Granted that was 9 months ago and fortunately I have only had the car serviced on average once every 9-12 months since I bought the car .
When it was last serviced the brake pads were at 4MM and I had about 40K miles on the car.
I do mainly city driving in New England. Today, after they inspected the car they have now told me that not only to I need new brake pads but I need new rotors as well. They cannot be resurfaced.
So, my question is this: Are completely replacing new front rotors normal at 44K miles on a car that is 4 1/2 years old? I had the rear brake pads done and those rotors resurfaced at 33K miles. This is the first time the front brakes have been touched on this car.
Thanks for your help.
With absolutely no background info beyond that, it seems quite high to me. However, I'm not sure what gets done and what's reasonable in our market (Santa Monica, CA).
Is this an unreasonable quote? We are not DIY car people so please don't reply with that.
Guess we have to shop around. Would be nice if the estimator tool gave links to garages.
Meanwhile we have a link for Local Repair Shops and Click and Clack have a mechanic's file over at cartalk.com.
Oil change - every 5k miles
Rear Diff fluid - 15k
Transmission fluid - 30k
Brake fluid - ?
Power steering - ?
Tire rotation - 5k
Alignment - 10k
Please let me know if above is appropriate or I need change or add anything? I live in Charlotte which has Normal driving conditions. Please let me know any more regular maintainace I need to do. Thanks!
I drove my 2002 model CR-V for over 100K miles.... and, never had it aligned.. If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
Most manufacturers suggest changing brake fluid every two years..
Power steering fluid? I've never changed it, unless there was a repair to the steering rack..
The rest of your intervals seem fine... I know they've had problems with the rear diff on CR-Vs in the past... but, not sure I'd change that every 15K, either... unless it exhibited symptoms of a problem.. But, as noted above, I don't know the factory specified interval.
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Oil change - every 5k miles
Rear Diff fluid - 15k
Transmission fluid - 30k
Brake fluid - 3 years, regardless of mileage
Power steering - depends, Honda does not specify, but I change every year along with ATF (wife's CR-V) and MTF (my CR-V), and differential fluid
Tire rotation - 5k
Alignment - 10k
Last week, I found this car has the steeling wheel shakes sometime. Basically the shaking happens when the speed is going to around 75 miles. But it is not always shaking at that speed.
The shaking is not really hard. And it is almost stopping if I use two hands with strength.
I am just wondering whether someone has any comment. I appreciate it.
George
It would be good for you to know how they exactly diagnosed the bad head gasket. If they can't explain it, they didn't do it.
I'm not sure of everything that's been done with it since then. I know the oil changes were done pretty regularly whenever the maintenance minder went off. Usually at the dealer. I think the oil changes were usually accompanied by the 19th pt inspection.
Last year, I Tried to do the oil change my self once but couldn't do it. But the dealer said he will only charge $10 for the oil change if I bring the oil and filter.
We try to do the Tire Rotation and balance as often as we can. When we replaced the tires, we mounted them at Walmart and got free lifetime rotation and balance. Last time this was done was in September, need to do this soon.
In 9/2011, when the vehicle was at 116k miles, we changed the Air and Cabin Air filter on our own.
In 11/2011, my brother and I did the brake fluid change on our own. I think this is supposed to be every 3 years regardless of mileage. We were over a year late on this and the car was something between 120k-121k.
Looking through Edmunds, browsing over the the past 80k of inspections, here's what I think we should be looking at:
135k
-
Brake Fluid Flush/Replace(mentioned this above)130k (and every 10k up until here)
-
Replace oil(at 30% according to the maintenance minder, don't need to worry about this now. Plus instead of doing just the oil change and not the filter change, I like to just do both in one shot.-
tire rotation(I mentioned this above)Lubricate Hinges, locks & latches
120k
-Change Automatic transmission fluid
-Flush/Replace Coolant
120k (and every 60k prior)
-Inspect/adjust Drive belt(s)
120k miles (and every 30k miles prior):
-
Replace Air filter and Cabin air filterI mentioned what's up with the air and cabin air filter earlier.120k (and every 20k miles prior)
-
Replace Engine Oil filterI mentioned what's up with the engine oil and filter above-Inspect Brakes
-Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
-Inspect boots & seals Drive axles
-Inspect Exhaust system
-Inspect Fluid levels
-Inspect Fuel lines & hoses
-Check operation Lights & accessories
-Inspect/adjust Parking brake
-Inspect Steering
-Inspect Suspension
-Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots
110k miles
-Replace Spark Plugs (Anyone know any good spark plugs?)
-Inspect Valve Clearance
90k
Rear Differential Fluid - This was actually done at 73k. I made a post on it here.
Any thoughts on everything I'll have them focus on?
I also have a few other issues which aren't related to Scheduled Maintenance:
1) The A/C still isn't working. I posted about that a while ago over here. The dealer fixed something. That wasn't the problem. Then they looked at it again and said the part needed was the "CONTROL MODULE, ENGINE (REWRITABLE)" (Part NO.: 37820-RZA-A77). I googled and the cheapest I found it was from hondapartsnow.com for $362: http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~control~module~engine~37820-RZA-A77.h- - - tml
But before I get the part, I want to have it confirmed.
2) A loud noise is under my car when the car is in drive but held in place by the brakes. It's like a loud rattle. I think I bothered something when I went over a dip.
3) Tire Life - we've had our Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza 225/65 R17 tires since June 2009 when the car was at 57k miles. They've been great. I'm wondering how much life they may have left though. We've tried to rotate them regularly.
4) The little yellow exclamation mark is on which I Think means that there's an issue with tire pressure. But I think the tire pressure is fine so I'm thinking there could be a problem here.
Transmission Fluid service: $43 (4 quarts needed, one drain washer plug)
Coolant Replacement: $56 (1 bottle needed)
Spark Plugs Replacement and Valve Clearance: 2.5 hrs x $109 = $272.50 (Spark Plugs and Valve Cover gasket needed).
Drive Belt (he's saying at this point, it should just be replaced, not just inspected and adjusted): 1hr of service @ $109 (Serpentine belt needed).
I took a print out from handa-accessories.com of all the maintenance items needed for the 2007 CR-V and their prices to the Parts department of this Honda dealer.
I got them to match handa's prices for the:
- transmission fluid @ $6.18 a quart and got 4 of them along with the drain plug washer
- Coolant @ $14.43 (got 2 of the gallon containers, keeping 1 for later, and actually already have 1).
- Air Filter @ $19.98 (don't need this now but will later.
Couldn't get them to match the price to handa for the cabin air filter but it makes sense because handa has an Aftermarket Pollen Filter not an OEM. Theirs is $12.45, The dealer went down to $25 for their OEM one. I just grabbed it.
Anyways, total was $100ish for everything.
Tomorrow I'll get just the Coolant and the Transmission fluid taken care of. And in this visit, they'll check out all the non-service items issues that I have - the A/C, tire sensor, tires, and the loud noise.
I'll research the spark plugs and see what's good. handa has the NGK Laser Iridium Spark plug at $14.49 each and 4 are required. I'm not sure if that's the one that Honda Dealer would have and if they do, if they would match this price (Assuming it's the cheapest).
Then next time get the spark plugs and valve clearance taken care of. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the valve cover gasket because I don't see that available from Handa.
But Handa does have the Serpentine Belt at $43.85. I may push that for an even later visit. split up all these major maintenance items a bit.
Also in my next visit my oil change should be do. I'd like to start using Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil from now on. I wonder then how far I can push the oil. I'm thinking it'll be at least 10k miles in between oil changes.
Let me guess - they didn't rotate your tires?
Honda says the oil is good for 10,000 miles. They used to make a big deal about not changing the initial factory "break in" oil early too.
You could have saved yourself $30 and the engine would be just fine.
Of course, most dealers won't tell you that.
Enjoy the road trip!
On another note, setting aside money to handle warranty claims is an indicator of how reliable a car is. Guess what company does especially well in that regard?
At Honda, things have never been better, as warranty costs continue to drop (Warranty Week)
Not much comfort if you have to come to this problems discussion to post, but chances are you won't have too much company.
http://www.bkhondaparts.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search- _str=75332-swa-003&make=Honda
i found the paper
Anyway, I did look at a picture, and yep, it's a rocker panel trim piece with an expensive name... :P
However, the light appeared again the other day as soon as I started the car. Took it back to my mechanic who again read the code P0341 , which indicates a stretched timing chain. My mechanic insists that the car is running fine, & that I shouldn't worry about it unless I begin to hear noise coming from the engine. Any advice or thoughts? I should mention that my mechanic is an independent shop & not a Honda dealership. Thanks.
so he'd best check the cam chain for looseness, check the cam timing, and, as well re-check his connections at the new solenoid.
There may be various resets he could also do with the scan tool.
I would like to change the plastic lens on the instrument panel - broken and discolored). I will not be removing any of the gauges just the plastic glass. It does not look like a tough job - the lens looks like it is just apiece of plastic. For the life of me I can't see any screws to take the plastic frame out (which has some funny name).
Anyway - anyone know is 1) this is an easy job and 2) how to do it.
It is more cosmetic, irritating than safety so if it is involved just might forget it.
thanks
You have to remove the trim around the gauge cluster to get to the cluster screws. If you have automatic it is a little more involved since the shifter is right up there. On the manual, you just pull on the trim, straight out and it will pop.