The V is shaped like a brick. I was averaging about what you were getting at the same speeds going from Denver to California. After hitting a deer on the way back to Denver and driving about 65 we averaged over 30mpg on 3 tanks! albeit with the wind.
Tntitan if its an automatic it has overdrive, if you were not using it on the open road the milage can be affected.
Varmit, in case your interested, after extensive research and talking to three tire manufacturers. The consensus on 5 wheel rotation is to use the spare on the right rear wheel and make the front left the new spare uaing X rotation. The two rears will go foward, the right front will cross to the left rear, the spare will go on the right rear and the front left will be the spare. Anyone that does this should mark the tires for the next rotation to keep track. This is not FOR Directional Tires.
Varmint - I realize that MPG improves by slowing down. It would probaly be maximized by driving between 55-60 but that was not my point. I was surprised that the consistent speed (albeit higher) did not outweigh the mixed commuter mileage driving in town.
Wellresearched - Health and life insurance are all paid up - thank you. Sorry, but in Nashville driving 8-10 MPH over the speed limit puts in the righthand lane barely keeping up with the flow of traffic. In my opinion driving significantly slower than the flow of traffic can be just as dangerous as excessive speeds.
Inkie - it is an automatic and if it has overdrive then I stand corrected as "just another idiot". Where is this "overdrive" located and how do I access it? I have not seen it but will get the owner's manual out tonight and look for it unless someone can tell me where it is located. I think you may be mistaken but I hope that I am just an idiot. Actually, I may be an idiot anyway.
Inkie, on five wheel rotation -- if I rotate in my spare, it will bring in a tire with zero miles on it with three others with about 10,000 miles on them. Will this not have an impact, e.g. tires rotating at slightly different speeds? I was tempted to leave the spare as a full time spare to avoid this issue, but I realize that in the long run I will have to replace my tires sooner -- about 20 percent sooner, assuming the wear is evenly distributed. BTW, what do you use to mark tires with?
Jfigueroa1 -- I had the brake pad "clunk", but my dealer fixed it the last time I brought it in. I don't know what they did (my wife brought it in and did not ask), but whatever it was, it worked!
Good advice: do not rotate your spare in with the other tires. Most sources say not to switch sides of car when rotating tires. When you are ready to replace tires, if you buy the same tire again, you can just buy three tires, and save your best one for the spare. or if buying another brand, you'll still have a brand new spare. Its just not worth the possible balance/handling issues to try to get another 20 percent wear out of your tires.
tntitan, the overdrive button is located at the end of the shift lever, it is a push in, in the longitudinal axis of the shifter. strange location, but then again so is the location of the shifter lever itself.
I bought (leased) an '03 CRV EX 4x4 in Atlanta GA for 21,900 which included pistriping and mud flaps. Just be careful when leasing; they had to redo the lease paperwork 4 times since they kept screwing up. My payment was at 350 per month originally, but when they finally had it right it was at 315. Helluva difference. NEVER trust the finance guy, ALWAYS read the contract.
I love the '02 CRV EX, but I can't stand the downshifting in traffic... does this happen to anyone else? I will slightly step on the gas to move forward, and as I take my foot off the gas, the car downshifts abruptly and slows down.
Also, does anyone else thing the radio is just so far away that it's annoying to change the station?
In regard the down shifting in traffic,My cr-v does the same, what I do if I know that I will be stuck there and moving slow I place the v in 2nd gear but, you have to be easy on the pedal, remember the v will take off on 2nd so it will be slower. Greetings from sunny Miami.
Your milage is too high to include the spare in the rotation, wear patterns have probably developed which will affect ride and balance. Most of the so called experts I spoke to said wear patterns will not occur until about 8,000 + miles. Your best bet is to follow the 4 wheel rotation in the manual and save the spare as kyfdx suggests.
That is Honda's grade logic transmission at work. It calculates vehicle speed, braking pressure and throttle positon, and tries to figure out if you need engine/transmission compression braking or not, such as when descending a grade (hence, the name). If you want to see what I mean, start down a long hill with no traffic, and don't touch the brake, and you will notice the transmission stays in 4th gear. Next time, tap the brakes lightly as you go down the hill, and you will notice the transmission downshifting to 3rd gear.
Can you post the name of the dealership where they fixed the brake clunking problem. Our dealer tells us its normal for all honda brakes to do that but if there is a fix I would like to call the dealer and find out what is that they did to fix the problem
Does anyone else here experiencing excessive vibration noise coming from either driver/passenger front doors when going over slight rough pavement on the freeway? Our 02 cr-v has little over 8k miles and it sure is annoying. I keep the tire pressure at 28psi 2 psi above recommended setting.
Although my CR-V had many unresolved rattles and squeaks, I have learned to cope with them. (Not to mention the first time I discovered the brakes clunking
This time, whenever my CR-V leans towards the rear driver side, I hear a rough noise, somewhat of a croaking very repetitively and quickly.
This sometimes happens whenever a bump actually hits the rear driver side wheel. Accelerating up a hill or driving over a large mogul, at least there is pressure to the wheel, the noise arises.
I'm suspecting something loose in the suspension. It is difficult to reproduce to the dealership though. Any opinions? Thanks!
We have just purchased a new 2003 CR-V,which should be here in a couple weeks. Have been reading some complaints about how easy the interior scratches. Wondered if they made any changes for 2003? If not then warranty should kick in should it not?
I purchased a 2002 CRV EX automatic in May. Since delivery at 26 miles I have experienced a very noticeable vibration in the steering wheel while stopped and idling in gear and worsens when operating the AC and in rainy conditions. Shifting to "park" eases the vibration. I have been advised by the Honda dealer that this is "normal" and "within operating conditions" for all CRVs due to the factory set of the idle which cannot be adjusted. This is very annoying. Honda Customer Service would offer no assistance and advised that if the dealer said the car was operating normally then Honda was not prepared to further investigate. Has anyone else noticed this and if so is there a fix?
I have been driving '02 EX since last dec. very little vibration if any.In fact my idle seems to go up when A/C is on. My suggestion is to drive other '02's if possible to check their vibration. If you can"t do it than go to other dealers, if its an idle problem they should fix it. Remember its under warranty and don't let them forget it.
I really never checked my tachometer settings until today so here is another answer to your problem which may help you.Look at your tachometer on the dash, Check the rpm when you have vibration with the acessories on and off you should idle steady around 1000 rpm in neutral and any where around 700 up when you are in gear if you get vibration at these rpm readings your problem is not the idle settings. If its much lower tell the techs. Also if the idle is okay and you have vibration other faults could make this occur so tell the techs. Either way as I said before your car is under warranty so they must fix it. If you get the runaround tell the dealer and honda customer service that you will notify the Attorney Generals Office, Bureau Of Consumer Affairs in the state you live in that will get their attention.
I have a 1999 Honda CRV. I hear a deep scrubbing noise from the rear end of the vehicle turning sharp at very slow speeds. Anyone else have this problem or a solution???
I checked the tachometer this am - CR-V idles consistently at 900 rpms in all settings you suggested except upon starting when it idles at 1500 rpms until shifted into gear and then drops back to 900 rpms. { It didn't idle at 1500 rpms upon first start-up until the Honda technician tried to "adjust" the idle to relieve the vibration. Is this normal? It used to be 700 rpms as well } .
Another observation. Have you noticed your gas guage registering 1/4 or less and upon filling up, your gas tank only takes 8-10 gallons in what is supposed to be a 15 gallon capacity tank? I have never put in full capacity because of the reading on the guage.
Sounds as if your dealer is taking the easy way out to try an adjust the vibration by increasing idle rpm. 1500 rpm may be a little high but I don't think it will be high enough to damage anything. I suggest you drive other CRV.'s and compare the vibration if its much more. Than your dealer has to look at other causes, its up to you to decide if your CRV has more vibration. Some of the causes could be motor mounts, computor or front end problems. Give them another chance than go somewhere else. Maybe someone else can answer your gas fill problem, I seldom worry about fillups or gas milage.I know it was discussed on these message boards so ask. "Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving"
Purchased my CR-V 2002 last June. EX 5spd. Yesterday we had our first snow, a light 1-2 inch dusting on road due to Lake Michigan effect. Having been born and raised in the snow belt, I know very well how to drive on the white stuff. However, to my chagrin, found myself doing 180's and fish-tailing all over the place where the snow had not yet been scraped off the street. This happened in a residential area i.e. going less than 20 mph. What gives?!?!? I got rid of my last car (a Ford Contour SE) for this vehicle. I've liked it very much so far, but this is unacceptable. I have about 9000 miles on the vehicle on the original Bridgestone tires on which it came. No problems at all in rain, just in snow/ice. Winter lasts a long time in Wisconsin. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance.
When I first bought my 2001 CRV ( I now own a 2002) it was in January and the Bridgestones that were on it were VERY bad in the snow or ice. That is your problem. As soon as I bought snow tires.......(6 hours after buying the vehicle!) everything changed. You should do the same. I bought Nokian SUV tires...expensive but much better than Blizzacks if you have lots of snow and last MUCH longer. I live in Quebec so I know what snow is. We have had 3 storms already and I have no problem getting around. Your major concern is brakeing and snow tires will icrease this at least 50%.
Michael - How's your tire pressure? I went through 3 winters on the Bridgestones without much complaint. However, I just had problems similar to yours with my new Aquatreds. I suspect this is because the Aquatreds were over-inflated during a recent trip to the dealer. If you're running yours over 30psi, lower it back down to the recommended 26. I'm going to try that with mine before heading home tonight.
You are right varmint........but that will only solve a little of the problem. I checked mine when I first bought the vehicle and they were at 26psi............stiil crap in winter. You need winter tires if you have snow and ice, nothing less. A 4x4 does not mean anything when braking or turning ONLY under acceleration. Higher center of gravity also effects the vehicle on these surfaces.
OK, folks. I'm convinced that I'll need a set of snows. I had this very same problem with the Ford Contour I had; heavy in front, light in back, front wheel drive. I did replace those stock firestones with better tires, and did get better performance in snow/ice. Now, if I dare be presumptious, I've got some questions and would like to solicit some advice... What set of 4 snows would be the best for this vehicle?? Further, where is the best place to purchase them?? I'm in the Milwaukee, Wi area, and am old fashioned, I guess, in the sense that I prefer to purchase items "at a store", but I'm certainly willing to look into internet sources if far better quality and deals are available.
By the way, just for the info, I've taken some time to read some of the other critiques about the CR-V 2002. I've got two of the same problems others have mentioned; one..my check engine light also went on (and stayed on) at about 4200 miles. Honda wasn't able to explain the problem, but reset the computer. No problems since. Gas cap gets tightened 5 clicks now. Two, I have that same "clunk" noise coming from someplace under the chassis when I'm either backing or accelerating under a load of gravity (up or down an incline for example) when starting up cold. This began just after I had the vehicle looked at by Honda at 4200 miles. No degredation to performance, just a wierd idiosyncracy to the vehicle!! In a way it's comforting to know it's just not me alone here experiencing these things. Anyway, I've rambled enough. Thanks in advance for tire advice. Happy Thanksgiving to all. -Mike
I bought a set of Toyo Observe (GO2)snows and put them on about two weeks ago. Since then, we have had a couple of storms (one that delivered about 8 inches), and I have never felt so secure on snow. I tell my wife that it feels like I could climb trees in my CR-V (she asked me to drop her off first).
The clunk you described sounds like the brake problem I (and many others ) have had -- if so, it is the brake pads readjusting in the calipers after braking going one way, then changing direction (i.e. reverse to forwards or vice versa) and braking again. Does it only clunk after your first brake after changing direction? If so, this might be the cause. My dealer adjusted the pads and the clunk went away.
hey, peachey. i have 02 brand new crv for last 2 weeks. no vibration idle related. but that's not the point. point is: there should be none, period, end of sentence. dealers are dealers - you bought the car, it becomes your problem. i have a suggestion. 1. your vehicle is covered under warranty in any dealership in the usa. find another dealer and arrange to have the car checked. if they ask why - tell them the truth about your dealer. let your dealer know that you do this. mine turned pail and shacky when i pulled this stunt on him. 2. find a good standing independent shop (ASE certified) and arrange for diagnostics. you will lose 50-70 bucks, but you may gain a strong leverage if they find anything wrong. if yes, take a print out with you, go back to your dealer, present your findings, and ask to have the problem fixed or you go to Automobile BBB (it's in your car warranty bucklet) and to arbitrage. be calm but adamant when you talk to dealer. i know cars good enough to let you know that there's not a single car on the road where idle can not be adjusted in some way. or fixed. your idle speed unit probably is acting up. get to 25K miles and sell the car or swap it to a new one. you'll go past 36K - you on your own, and it ain't cheap to fix. good luck.
take them off your car! i just bought 02 crv with bridgestone dueler h/t. straight from the dealership the car was vibrating and pulling to the side so bad that even a salesperson agreed and wrote "we owe" slip saying :"rebalance and align as necessary". well it took them 3 days of my life and multiple alignment checks, etc (and a couple of scars on my coronaries) to figure our that if you cross rotate the wheels, the problem's gone. of course, they have a scientific name for it: radial torque pull. which means - one of the tires has a twisted radial belt in the sidewall and under torque (u touch your gas pedal or cruise) it creates a pull to one side. can not be seen, smelled, or tasted, so they told me that they will have to keep rotating wheels untill they find which one is it and replace it. "been nice talking to u" was my response. i have a common sense name to this: piece of donkey's dunk tires, made by famous bridgestone/firestone corp, owned by who? - our good old buddy ford! messages here just confirmed this. so, my verdict is - if you plan on driving this car for more than 25000 miles(or in snow/ice/slippery stuff) - get rid of them and buy something reasonable, like michelin or toyo.
We purchased our 02 CRV In January and have put on 20,000 Kms. I have been happy so far with the factory bridgestone 205/15's. Has anyone noticed unusual deep ridges (almost crack like) running perpendicular to the normal braking related ridges on the rear disks. the disks are easily seen through the factory alloys on EX-L models?
here's best winter tires as tested by consumer report mag. based on 14 different tests: h-rated (speed up to 130mph, price in brackets, from the best to better) goodyear eagle ultra grip gw-2 (132) dunlop sp winter sport m2 (126) pirelli winter 210 snow sport (155) bridgestone blizzak lm 22 (130) nokian hakkapelitta nrw (157) with nokian having the best snow traction and dunlop the best ice braking
q-rated tires (speed up to 99mph) kumbo i'zen stud kw 11 (50) michelin arctic alpin (85) dunlop graspic ds-1 (55) gislaved nordfrost II (75) nokian hakkapelita q (85) with dunlop beating everything else in cost to performance in traction/braking (but has only fair emergency braking). all tires tested with ABS, on packed snow, ice rink, wet surface. CR acknowledges that ABS disengagement significantly changed the braking characteristics.
Hey, ukrbyk; Thanks for research in CR. I've seen that article as well, however I did not see the TOYO Observe (GO2) rated, though good things have been said about them on the previous postings here. These tires will be my Dec 1st to March 30th tires, therefore, in order to get a bit more life out of them, is there a "life difference" (wear, tread, etc.) between the H-rated and Q-rated tires? I don't think I'll ever get past 99 mph, still, does the difference in the speed ratings have any associated "wear" or "life of tire" differences? Further, do you know where the TOYO's are sold or where one could read a rating about them? Thanks also to Hondaman02 and Trilliumsteve for your opinion inputs!!
(In forums.vmag.com: Jennings, Jays, Bacino, Letia, htouwncrv and me have a CR-V EX 2002 with vibration at idle).
At about 13500 km on my CR-V 2002 EX, I noticed that when at idle or in reverse, there is noticeable vibration that can be felt in the steering wheel and even the seat(practically the whole front end of the car). This vibration was not felt when the car was brand new. When put into neutral or park, the vibration within the car is gone but idle is not perfect.
My first visit at the dealer: retighted all supports of motor. Result: vibration is always present. I taked the cr-v past 6 pm and it was to late to talk with the dealer.
The day after, I have talk with the dealer. He wants to test my cr-v again and will pass to me an other car during appointment.
This appointment will be in December. I will give a brief about that to you.
I just came back from a one month vacation last week and found my 2002 CRV, which might have idled too long, vibrates a lot when i drive it at 65mph. The vibration can be felt most noticeably from the steering wheel.
This vibration problem can also be felt when the car is idling. Although not as obvious as at 65mph, it's still there. But i can't recall i had this problem in the past.
Is it because of the weather? I am in Mass. It's getting extremely cold recently.
Did anyone experience the same problem? Thanks in advance.
I have a 2000 crv. There is so much noise inside that I don't listen to my radio that much. I can hear the tires on the wet street as it rains. There's loud wind sounds around the passenger window and door. I have been back to the dealer, however it still sound the same. This car also slip and slides when it rains.Yes it vibrates (steering wheel) when I'm driving around 75mph. Overlooking all of this I'm thinking of getting a 2003. Any suggestions? Are the 2003 noises? Thanks in advance.
anyone out there consider using 0-30 synthetic oil in 2002 crv? -40C weather doesn't cooperate with much else. If so did you check with the dealer to see if warranty was an issue?
I can't help you with the tread wear life of H or Q rated tires, but I can tell you that I got my Toyos on sale at the Honda dealer where I bought my vehicle.
Apparently many others have had the same problem I have with my CR-V - the brakes make an annoying clicking sound, not just when braking in reverse, but sometimes when going forward, as well. I read here someone had their dealer adjust their rear pads. How can I get mine to adjust them? All they do is tell me that Honda sent them a service notice saying that they are aware of the problem and there's nothing they can do about it. Sounds like total BS to me. My car only has 11K miles and has done this since the day I bought it. Thanks for any info on this problem.
This seems to be a Honda trade mark. I have had two Accords that have done the same thing in the winter. Believe it or not, I consider this normal when owning a Honda.
Just turned 20K and wanted to report that I have had no problems other than a few minor annoyances that the dealer has taken care of. We love this car. Dealer replaced the Antilock brake modulator at around 15K (had to wait 2 weeks for part and dealer offered rental car but the V was fine to drive - just had regular brakes without antilock).
My only complaints: 1. Rear seat middle head restraint had to be removed due to vision problem. 2. Intermittent wipers need more than one speed. 3. Cheap plastic (that scratches very easily) in the rear cargo compartment and where the front seat seat belt latches hit the A pillars when not in use. 4. Firestone Dueler H/T tires suck in wet weather since day one. Will definitely break down and get some new tires before 25K. 5. Oil filter is small, horizontally mounted, and too hard to get to. Same as my 2000 Accord SE. I guess this is a common Honda affliction ... along with crummy tires.
The important thing is that my wife loves this car and it has been everything we had hoped for. She drove her last car (a Celica) for 160K and plans to do the same with this one.
I have a 2002 CR-V EX with 3700 miles...just this week took it in for an oil change and told them to check the clicking noise upon braking. they advised it is a characteristic of the pads...and I am hearing them shift. Also told me there have been quite a few complaints regarding this and they may be re-engineering them. Disappointing.
It is kind of funny that scape reads one burnt out valve issue and makes such a big deal about it! This guy is supposed to be an engineer! Don't cross over any bridges he has worked on my friends!
It is nice to know that he is so interested in trying to beat Hondas reputation to death and never succeeds. Must be getting frustrated!
pop up Hondaman.. Kind of funny how its ok for you to spread chaos and discontent in the Escape problem room.. yet when someone pops up in your backyard its not ok.. I'm surprised Edmunds has this room buried in the maint/repair board and not in the SUV room.
Can we have this moved into a room where more people can find it Edmunds?? Along with the other rooms for Liberty problems, Toyota problems ect..
I have owned Honda Accords for the last 12 years and find them very reliable. Since I live in the northeast, I decided to look at SUV's that I could afford that also offer good gas mileage as well as reliability.
My first test drive was a 2003 CRV top of the line. I could not believe all the road noise I heard in the cabin! I could hear the tires on the road which tended to be quite loud. (Bridgestones). My Accords were never as loud as I encountered with the CRV.
My second test drive was a Subaru Forester which really drove like a car. It was a lot more quiet but the cabin looked cheap. Did notice Bridgestone tires were also on the Subaru.
Lastly, I test drove a Toyota RAV L. This vehicle was really quiet as compared to the CRV and Forester. This vehicle also had Bridgestone tires that I barely heard.
They wanted full list on the CRV (2 on the lot), $250.00 over cost on the Forester (at least 30 on the lot) and $450.00 over cost on the RAV 4(only 1 L and 4 quick order package models on the lot).
I read where the RAV4 is rated #1 in the JD Powers survey as well as #1 in Consumer Reports in its class. The CRV and Forester are ranked right up there.
Anyone give me any ideas how they like their CRV? Have you encountered any problems? I have been always a Honda person so this is going to be a very difficult discussion for me.
Comments
Varmit, in case your interested, after extensive research and talking to three tire manufacturers. The consensus on 5 wheel rotation is to use the spare on the right rear wheel and make the front left the new spare uaing X rotation. The two rears will go foward, the right front will cross to the left rear, the spare will go on the right rear and the front left will be the spare. Anyone that does this should mark the tires for the next rotation to keep track. This is not FOR Directional Tires.
Wellresearched - Health and life insurance are all paid up - thank you. Sorry, but in Nashville driving 8-10 MPH over the speed limit puts in the righthand lane barely keeping up with the flow of traffic. In my opinion driving significantly slower than the flow of traffic can be just as dangerous as excessive speeds.
Inkie - it is an automatic and if it has overdrive then I stand corrected as "just another idiot". Where is this "overdrive" located and how do I access it? I have not seen it but will get the owner's manual out tonight and look for it unless someone can tell me where it is located. I think you may be mistaken but I hope that I am just an idiot. Actually, I may be an idiot anyway.
Jfigueroa1 -- I had the brake pad "clunk", but my dealer fixed it the last time I brought it in. I don't know what they did (my wife brought it in and did not ask), but whatever it was, it worked!
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I bought (leased) an '03 CRV EX 4x4 in Atlanta GA for 21,900 which included pistriping and mud flaps. Just be careful when leasing; they had to redo the lease paperwork 4 times since they kept screwing up. My payment was at 350 per month originally, but when they finally had it right it was at 315. Helluva difference. NEVER trust the finance guy, ALWAYS read the contract.
Also, does anyone else thing the radio is just so far away that it's annoying to change the station?
does the same, what I do if I know that I will be stuck there and moving slow I place the v in 2nd gear but, you have to be easy on the pedal, remember the v will take off on 2nd so it will be slower.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
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This time, whenever my CR-V leans towards the rear driver side, I hear a rough noise, somewhat of a croaking very repetitively and quickly.
This sometimes happens whenever a bump actually hits the rear driver side wheel. Accelerating up a hill or driving over a large mogul, at least there is pressure to the wheel, the noise arises.
I'm suspecting something loose in the suspension. It is difficult to reproduce to the dealership though. Any opinions? Thanks!
I checked the tachometer this am - CR-V idles consistently at 900 rpms in all settings you suggested except upon starting when it idles at 1500 rpms until shifted into gear and then drops back to 900 rpms. { It didn't idle at 1500 rpms upon first start-up until the Honda technician tried to "adjust" the idle to relieve the vibration. Is this normal? It used to be 700 rpms as well } .
Another observation. Have you noticed your gas guage registering 1/4 or less and upon filling up, your gas tank only takes 8-10 gallons in what is supposed to be a 15 gallon capacity tank? I have never put in full capacity because of the reading on the guage.
Thanks for your help.
Maybe someone else can answer your gas fill problem, I seldom worry about fillups or gas milage.I know it was discussed on these message boards so ask. "Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving"
I live in Quebec so I know what snow is. We have had 3 storms already and I have no problem getting around. Your major concern is brakeing and snow tires will icrease this at least 50%.
By the way, just for the info, I've taken some time to read some of the other critiques about the CR-V 2002. I've got two of the same problems others have mentioned; one..my check engine light also went on (and stayed on) at about 4200 miles. Honda wasn't able to explain the problem, but reset the computer. No problems since. Gas cap gets tightened 5 clicks now. Two, I have that same "clunk" noise coming from someplace under the chassis when I'm either backing or accelerating under a load of gravity (up or down an incline for example) when starting up cold. This began just after I had the vehicle looked at by Honda at 4200 miles. No degredation to performance, just a wierd idiosyncracy to the vehicle!! In a way it's comforting to know it's just not me alone here experiencing these things. Anyway, I've rambled enough. Thanks in advance for tire advice. Happy Thanksgiving to all. -Mike
The clunk you described sounds like the brake problem I (and many others ) have had -- if so, it is the brake pads readjusting in the calipers after braking going one way, then changing direction (i.e. reverse to forwards or vice versa) and braking again. Does it only clunk after your first brake after changing direction? If so, this might be the cause. My dealer adjusted the pads and the clunk went away.
i know cars good enough to let you know that there's not a single car on the road where idle can not be adjusted in some way. or fixed. your idle speed unit probably is acting up. get to 25K miles and sell the car or swap it to a new one. you'll go past 36K - you on your own, and it ain't cheap to fix. good luck.
i have a common sense name to this: piece of donkey's dunk tires, made by famous bridgestone/firestone corp, owned by who? - our good old buddy ford! messages here just confirmed this.
so, my verdict is - if you plan on driving this car for more than 25000 miles(or in snow/ice/slippery stuff) - get rid of them and buy something reasonable, like michelin or toyo.
h-rated (speed up to 130mph, price in brackets, from the best to better)
goodyear eagle ultra grip gw-2 (132)
dunlop sp winter sport m2 (126)
pirelli winter 210 snow sport (155)
bridgestone blizzak lm 22 (130)
nokian hakkapelitta nrw (157)
with nokian having the best snow traction and dunlop the best ice braking
q-rated tires (speed up to 99mph)
kumbo i'zen stud kw 11 (50)
michelin arctic alpin (85)
dunlop graspic ds-1 (55)
gislaved nordfrost II (75)
nokian hakkapelita q (85)
with dunlop beating everything else in cost to performance in traction/braking (but has only fair emergency braking). all tires tested with ABS, on packed snow, ice rink, wet surface. CR acknowledges that ABS disengagement significantly changed the braking characteristics.
(In forums.vmag.com: Jennings, Jays, Bacino, Letia, htouwncrv and me have a CR-V EX 2002 with vibration at idle).
At about 13500 km on my CR-V 2002 EX, I noticed that when at idle or in reverse, there is noticeable vibration that can be felt in the steering wheel and even the seat(practically the whole front end of the car). This vibration was not felt when the car was brand new. When put into neutral or park, the vibration within the car is gone but idle is not perfect.
My first visit at the dealer: retighted all supports of motor. Result: vibration is always present. I taked the cr-v past 6 pm and it was to late to talk with the dealer.
The day after, I have talk with the dealer. He wants to test my cr-v again and will pass to me an other car during appointment.
This appointment will be in December. I will give a brief about that to you.
Give me a brief of your discussion with Honda.
Thanks in advance!
This vibration problem can also be felt when the car is idling. Although not as obvious as at 65mph, it's still there. But i can't recall i had this problem in the past.
Is it because of the weather? I am in Mass. It's getting extremely cold recently.
Did anyone experience the same problem? Thanks in advance.
slip and slides when it rains.Yes it vibrates (steering wheel) when I'm driving around 75mph. Overlooking all of this I'm thinking of getting a 2003. Any suggestions? Are the 2003 noises? Thanks in advance.
My only complaints:
1. Rear seat middle head restraint had to be removed due to vision problem.
2. Intermittent wipers need more than one speed.
3. Cheap plastic (that scratches very easily) in the rear cargo compartment and where the front seat seat belt latches hit the A pillars when not in use.
4. Firestone Dueler H/T tires suck in wet weather since day one. Will definitely break down and get some new tires before 25K.
5. Oil filter is small, horizontally mounted, and too hard to get to. Same as my 2000 Accord SE. I guess this is a common Honda affliction ... along with crummy tires.
The important thing is that my wife loves this car and it has been everything we had hoped for. She drove her last car (a Celica) for 160K and plans to do the same with this one.
It is nice to know that he is so interested in trying to beat Hondas reputation to death and never succeeds. Must be getting frustrated!
Can we have this moved into a room where more people can find it Edmunds?? Along with the other rooms for Liberty problems, Toyota problems ect..
My first test drive was a 2003 CRV top of the line. I could not believe all the road noise I heard in the cabin!
I could hear the tires on the road which tended to be quite loud. (Bridgestones). My Accords were never as loud as I encountered with the CRV.
My second test drive was a Subaru Forester which really drove like a car. It was a lot more quiet but the cabin looked cheap. Did notice Bridgestone tires were also on the Subaru.
Lastly, I test drove a Toyota RAV L. This vehicle was really quiet as compared to the CRV and Forester. This vehicle also had Bridgestone tires that I barely heard.
They wanted full list on the CRV (2 on the lot), $250.00 over cost on the Forester (at least 30 on the lot) and $450.00 over cost on the RAV 4(only 1 L and 4 quick order package models on the lot).
I read where the RAV4 is rated #1 in the JD Powers survey as well as #1 in Consumer Reports in its class. The CRV and Forester are ranked right up there.
Anyone give me any ideas how they like their CRV?
Have you encountered any problems? I have been always a Honda person so this is going to be a very difficult discussion for me.