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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions
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1. i having the heads replaced on the car due to warpage in which its causing gas to go in to cylinders and cause major probs if not fixed. Major overhaul about to occur with new race performance brakes added.. grand total........................................1900.00 dollars
ill keep you guys updated
laterz
matt
Got a '97 Jxi and the SES light's been on a couple days now. Plugged in an OBD II scanner and got two codes. Both say that the O2 Sensor heater circuit has malfunctioned (one code for cylinder bank #1, sensor #1, and the other for cylinder bank #1, sensor #2).
My Haynes manual fails me because the picture they show to demonstrate the location of the sensors is obviously NOT from a '97 Jxi! So my question is this: Does anyone know where the sensor in question is located? And I mean _exactly_ where it is - Assume I don't have much of a clue beyond what I've described in this e-mail.
I am assuming that I'll need to replace the booger, but want to make sure it's plugged in first!
Thanks in advance! Jim
I just bought a 2003 Sebring Ltd convertible and have some questions: [some were answered when I bought the manuals]
1- Why are the running lights ONLY for Canada?
2- Can we make them work ourselves? I checked the two fuse boxes and the fuse and relay seem to be there.
3- It only had 1 key, so I paid a dealer $65 for an unprogrammed key. They want another $40 to program it. The manual says it takes ~ 40 seconds if you have 2 good keys. So, besides the extortion, Is there a way to program a key ourselves with only 1 good key?
4- The left front has a varying shake. Sometimes the whole cowl/windshield seem to be shifting. Otherwise, it feels solid. Anyone else have that problem? :confuse:
years and generally ignored it. The DMV will not perform an emmissions
test on a vehicle that the od does not work - funny thing is it does work
as the #'s keep chagning - the display cuts out.
Or if you could email them to me.
thanks a bunch
That is ODD ODD ODD!!! Tell me more about that? Cuz I Have a mechanic trying to diagnose this issue, and I didnt know that if you kept the tank full it wouldnt do it!
WOW, VERY strange!
How ODD is THAT! Well keep in touch! I am going to call MY mechanic and see what HE says about that! PLEASE Keep me informed, as I WILL do the same as soon as I know more!
Keith in Dallas
Kenny
Fast forward to eight weeks ago, and after running several errands without any trouble or threatened stalling, the car just wouldn't start. No turnover, nothing, but all the electronics worked so the battery was fine. Turned out to be a dead fuel pump, and all the issues since the winter were symptoms of it dying. Had the fuel pump replaced (not the cheapest repair) and it's been starting/running perfectly since then.
I'm with you, enfield76. I loved the car when I first got it new in 2001, but while I still enjoy driving it when everything's working, it's given me too much grief and only has 65K miles. The sun roof has leaked, and I've noticed the seal is starting to get loose again. One of the trunk struts keeps popping off its ball joint, and the other is loose and about to do the same. Hubcaps fall off regularly. I have to replace a tie rod coupling at least twice a year. AC/heater fan resistor has been replaced three times. I have a short in the dashboard light switch for the third time. Just had to replace a few clips in the driver side door panel because it was falling off, and even with the new clips, the panel has warped enough that it's still pulling away in the top center. Even though I use a windshield sun shade and open the sun roof about two inches when the weather is hot, the driver side seat leather is cracking. All the plastic door edge guards are long gone, because the glue liquefies in average summer sun. If it can't stand a parking lot for 2-3 hours in a northeastern suburban summer, where COULD it hold over the course of an average year? Iceland??? :mad:
I'd planned on keeping this car eight years or so when I bought it. No more. It's getting traded for a new Honda Accord in three days. I think the fact that we're keeping a 13-yo Ford Explorer (which doesn't have a stellar reliability reputation itself) and trading in the 2001 Sebring because the Sebring is less reliable and far more expensive to keep on the road says volumes.
Yesterday, I had two friends try to help. They bought an alternator, and fully charged the battery before putting the alternator in. They could not get the engine to turn over or start at all. They then abandoned putting in the alternator.
Any ideas on what to look for next? I am trying to put as little money as I can into the car because of the miles, and due to the fact that I am a poor medical intern. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kai9
Benicia, California
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:sick: :lemon: :lemon: :sick:
I've noticed a lot of transmission questions/issues in this topic so I've created a separate one here:
Chrysler Sebring: Transmission Questions
You may notice that some posts from this topic have been moved there.
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