I am in the market for the Sonata V6 vehicle. I just wondering what everyone is paying for this car in the Bay Area, California. Is this the best time to get the 2006 models, are they about the same price as the 2007 models? How much should I be paying for the GLS V6, LX (2006) AND SE, Limited (2007). Sorry if I had asked too much
Hey everyone, I'm looking for a 2006 GLS v6 w/ sunroof, Deepwater Blue to replace a Saturn ION that experienced an automobile accident. Autoweb.com says there is a $2500 rebate for the v6, and I have a local dealer who quoted me $20,661 - $2500, leaving me at $18,161 + T&L. I'd prefer to avoid the rebates and just pay less for it up front; is there any way I could negotiate that? Does $20,661 sound like too much? Thanks a bunch.
"I'd prefer to avoid the rebates and just pay less for it up front; is there any way I could negotiate that? Does $20,661 sound like too much? Thanks a bunch"
There is no wait to get this rebate. Its Instant Cash!. I got 3 $1000 Rebates at the time of purchase. And not taxed in my State. And yes, your price is not great :confuse:
Wow, how did you end up getting $3000 back? Was this a 2006 GLS v6 as well or was it a new 2007? What was the price you paid for the car after the rebates?
I'm not sure I remember what the SE is again, but my driveout price on the LX was $4K less. If you have a Tag already, you should get back about $150. Not interested in an brand new old 06 Model with up to $3K in rebates?
Thought this would be the best place to ask since many of you just purchased a Hyundai.
I paid for my car by personal check and loan check provided by my bank. When filling out paperwork with the salesperson, he asked me to provide my name and Social Security Number on a credit application and sign it. I told him that there was no need for me to provide that information or to fill out any portion of a credit application because I was not asking for a loan from them. He said he could not sell me a car without this information because the federal government made disclosure of the purchaser's Social Security Number a requirement related to changes made because of 9/11. So I provided it.
Today I requested my credit report from one of the three credit reporting bureaus. Fairfax Hyundai, it turns out, checked my credit. I'm not sure what database they check in order to find out if the federal government has me flagged but if it's related to 9/11 then it would likely be a government database, not a credit bureau. I don't see why they needed to check my credit report.
My question for you is if you were not looking into a loan from the dealer, were you required to give your Social Security Number in order to purchase your car?
If not, do you feel that the salesperson was just BSing me?
If the dealership is in the wrong, what do you feel I should ask from them besides having them remove the inquiry from my credit report?
Well remember you did sign the form & provide your SSN#. With that done many Dealers will go ahead and "pre qualify" you without your permission. In that case you could attempt to sue them under FCRA regulations.
While the Federal Government keeps many Databases, rest assured Fairfax Hyundai does not have a way of accessing them!.
Now if you wrote a Check over a certain amount ($10,000), they might require you to fill out a form that would contain your SSN#.
Since you bought from them, why not brush up on your Credit rights, (Google), and then contact the General Manager at the Dealership. Tell him the story, and see what type of free service & stuff he might want to offer you?. :confuse:
The Patriot Act (H.R. 3162 Section 362) states that verification of identification requires banks and financial institutions to verify your identification before you open an account. Patriot Act specifically calls out drivers licenses or passports for identification purposes. Unfortunately more and more dealers are trying this approach so unless you plan on financing through the dealership you are not required to provide your social security number and should not provide it.
I'm not a repeat buyer, I don't need or want to finance so tha's back to $1000 in rebates. Oh wife hates leather, so no 2006 LX or 2007 Limited. 2007 SE is the same as 2006 GLS with a V6.
"I'm not a repeat buyer, I don't need or want to finance so tha's back to $1000 in rebates. Oh wife hates leather, so no 2006 LX or 2007 Limited. 2007 SE is the same as 2006 GLS with a V6".
I see then. You'll still love the SE, yet I must tell you, the Leather is awesome!. It is not hateable
many dealers will run your credit if you are writing a personal check to make sure that you don't have a habit of writing bad checks. The salesperson should have told you the true reason, unfortunately, since you signed the credit application they are permitted to pull your credit.
...I see you got $2000 for the trade in. As I, too, will be trading in my '95 Camry for an '07 Sonata or Azera.... I'm curious as to how many miles you had on your Camry and how you would describe its condition.
Bought a new 2007 Limited for the wife on Saturday. Dealership agreed to pay off the trade at 9900 dollars (what they said my Beacon said I owe) Today we get a call that the payoff was 10043 dollars, and they want another 143 dollars. I've got a signed contract for 9900 dollars and don't want to pay any more. Do I have any recourse, or is their contract written in quicksand, while mine is written in stone? Also, they promised me floor mats with the car, and are now reneging on the deal, claiming they are not included with the car. True enough, they are not on the sticker, but I was promised them by the salesman, and got a we-owe signed by them, and they are included with the deal. They want 80 dollars for them (dealer cost 57, sticker price 85) according to Edmunds TMV. I agreed to pay half of 57, but now they want half of 80. Opinions please? I am just flabbergasted that they built such a good car with so many extras, and want to ding me to death after the sale.
Interesting?. Beacon is just a numerical score, like a FICO score. I'm sure you meant your credit report. Over $143 they will not blow the Deal, but they already blew the Sales Survey if you get one, as well as any other additional revenue at that Dealership. You asked a great question about your rights vs the Dealers rights when it comes to a Contract dispute. Read the fine print on the back of their Contract, it will amaze you. However over $143 I doubt they would terminate your Deal, or take it to arbitration where they almost always win. About the We-owe-U, demand to speak to the General Manager if they give you any additional grief on the Mats, that is if they don't cancel your deal first. You have up to two months to request a Sales Survey from Hyundai. Most people don't know this. Make sure to bring this item up to them. My Dealer wanted an extra $1000 as my Financing rebate kicked. I agreed to half, and when I showed in person I just said no. Just say NO!
Shoulda bought in JULY like I did. I got a $22,000 V6 GLS with deck spoiler for an unheard of $16,495. Wasn't easy, but I got the $2500 rebates they offered then and a negotiated down price. They reneged on the trade in price but I had the cash to cover the difference and I later sold the old car for only $200 less than they had originally agreed to give me. I think the later you wait the more you're gonna pay. At least that is what I've read on these forums.
The payoff on your trade in is your responsibility. Take them the difference or it will end up being a negative on your credit report as you are still responsible for the debt, regardless of whether you own the car anymore or not. As far as the mats are concerned, if you have a signed we owe form, then demand that they give them to you. The dealer may have made a mistake and not noticed that they weren't supposed to be in your car, but that is their problem. Don't offer to pay anything for them.
You Dealers and Salesmen all think alike. Kim has a signed & completed sales contract. These numbers are not subject to revision once the Deal is consumated. In fact it was the Dealer who provided the payoff amount?. Isn't it up to the Dealership to verify information. In my case I was given to drive (sold), a brand new LX, and it took my Dealership 18 days to tell me my financing was not approved. Heck, I didn't even have a job. And speaking about Credit how could this wind up as a negative on Kim's credit?. That's like saying a merchant can just decide to change a price, and then go after you if you don't agree. Sorry Dan, I don't agree!
The payoff of your debt is your responsibility.. Nothing in a sales contract states that the dealership will assume responsibility if the amount of the current car loan is incorrect. A lot of those contracts are written with the buyer giving the dealer the payoff number.. Surely, you wouldn't expect the dealer to swallow the difference if the buyer was wrong?
That is why the contract stipulates all of the variables... loan payoff, trade-in allowance, etc..
Though, I doubt this will end up as a negative on the buyer's credit report... The dealer can't sell the used car without paying off the loan... They aren't going to hold back $143 from the payoff check... that does them no good at all...
But.. you owe what you owe on your old car... How can that be the dealer's responsibility?
I've never had a Dealer payoff on a Car, so let's say you're correct. However so many figures are discussed during the negotiation process that the Customer can be overwhelmed. How could this be the Dealers responsibility?. Well they did come up with that figure from the buyers "Beacon". I thought a signed contract that includes provisions for the payoff amount is similar to what you are offered on a trade in amount, always a very fluid ever changing figure until you sign on the dotted line?.
Bob I was pretty much addressing those people outside Acadiana who are having a hard time finding 06' models still in stock. The $2500 rebates may no longer be in effect.
I don't expect everyone to agree, but look at it like this. I buy a watch for $2,000 on my credit card. I sell it immediately to my brother for $1,500. Does he owe my credit card company the other $500 or do I? If I don't pay that $500 difference will it end up on my credit?
I'm not saying that the dealer will not pay the $143 just to make the problem go away, but they are under no obligation to. Chances are that they will if push comes to shove, and the money will probably come out of the salesperson's paycheck, as he or the finance person are ultimately responsible for the numbers.
What your dealership did was spot deliver a car without an approval. That is a totally different circumstance here. Please don't be offended, I'm just stating facts here.
I just purchased my 2006 GLS V6 for $17,495 after the $2500 rebate. Edmunds invoice pricing does not include the charge to New England Hyundai dealers. The invoice was $20,431. Some other web sites I've seen the New England invoice price listed as $20,331. I have spoken to dealers in CT and New Hampshire. A Manchester NH dealer offered me the same car for $17,204 but I decided to save the cost of renting a car, fuel, food and end up paying about $200 more in Hartford. I investigated a warehouse club's auto buying program and their policy is a no-haggle $200 OVER invoice. I figured I would do better on my own, and I did. There are very few leftover 06 models left, and I was glad I found one in my first choice color. One dealer had NO leftovers, another had just 2, another only 4. At these prices it was cheaper to buy it new than to buy a used one with 15000 miles on it.
Does $17,495 include all the tax and fees? I was offered $100 over invoice plus tax/fees from the first email quote. The dealer did mention about the low inventory of 06 model. Not quite sure about the final price I will get.
I'm thinking of buying the 2007 Limited tomorrow after looking at it the other night at a dealer. What's the lowest I can expect to pay for the asking price? How about all those additional fees? They're giving me miscellaneous fees, not including tax, that add up to about $660. What's reasonable all told?
That price does not include taxes and fees. It looks like inventory depends on where you live. In CT at least three dealerships all claim to be CT's largest Hyundai dealer, and all three are sold out or almost sold out.
What equipment is on the car? Can you tell me what the fees are? Different states have different fees so it is hard to tell just by the amount what is reasonable.
It's in NJ. $242 4 yr registration, $199 window etching, $189 documents, $27 credit bureau, $7.50 tire tax. Kelley Sticker Price is $21,625. It's loaded with all the standard Limited model options.
I suspected window etching. It is optional. If you don't want it refuse to pay for it. They'll tell you that it is already on the car, and while that may be true, you don't have to pay for it. The stencil that we use costs about $6. That is all the cost that they have in it. There's may be a little bit more, but not much. We don't charge a credit bureau fee, but I don't think you will get around that one. Try to avoid that as well. Tire tax and registration you are definitely going to need to pay.
I bought a 2006 Sonata in July of '06. 2 months later I saw that they were giving back $2000 rebates with a purchase. I was never offered any kind of deals at all and now I am seeing that they are STILL offering this rebate. I'm very frustrated. Does anyone know if I can do anything to get in on this deal?
Rebates are valid only during the period offered, and if your purchase date did not include a rebate, you should receive no rebate . . . as they are not applicable after purchase. If, however, a rebate offer from Hyundai was available at the time you purchased your Sonata, and the dealer did not offer it to you, I would strongly consider you firmly speak to your salesman. If you didn't receive the rebate, they kept the $2K themselves.
two days after we bought our hyundai we found out there was a additional rebate of $1,500. when we called hyundai customer service they told us we would not be able to get that rebate because of the date we bought it. They also told us the dealers do not know ahead of time about the rebates and what they will be until that day. After they found out we had bought 5 hyundais in less than 2 1/2 years they sent us the rebate which does not usually happen cause everyone would want it but it pays to try
The price you paid probably included the rebates, meaning you did not get as much off MSRP as you thought you were getting. Check your itemized purchase contract/closing papers and you will see what happened to the rebate. You also might want to check to see if you authorized the rebate to be paid to the dealer. In either case, the price you paid should have lowered the MSRP by the amount of the rebate.
How much can I expect for 2006 GLS Sonata in Metro Detroit? I see $1500 rebate for 2006 GLS models. Is it reasonable to offer invoice ($18496) - $1500 = $16,996 or lesser than that? Please share your experiances. I really need to buy it asap. Thanks
My dealer in Northern Alabama tells me he must add the rebate to the sticker price, add sales and AL title fees, then deduct $1,000 rebate. I thought he should take rebate off sticker price first before taxes and title fee are added. ">
Comments
Does this stack up as a good deal? Any negative experiences at either dealership?
Thanks
I am in the market for the Sonata V6 vehicle. I just wondering what everyone is paying for this car in the Bay Area, California. Is this the best time to get the 2006 models, are they about the same price as the 2007 models? How much should I be paying for the GLS V6, LX (2006) AND SE, Limited (2007). Sorry if I had asked too much
Thanks in advance for all your inputs!
$21,595 MSRP
-$2107 Roseville Hyundai Discount
-$1000 Factory Rebate
-$500 Owner Loyalty Discount
= $17,988
Let us know what other prices you have been quoted in the Bay Area.
There is no wait to get this rebate. Its Instant Cash!. I got 3 $1000 Rebates at the time of purchase. And not taxed in my State. And yes, your price is not great :confuse:
http://www.hyundaiusa.com/financing/specialoffers/special_offers.aspx
$21580.00 price of vehicle
$49.00 electronic filing fee
$499.00 dealer fee
__________
$22128.00
$1377.68 Taxes (6% plus $50.00)
$225.00 tag
__________
$23730.68
- $1000.00 rebate
__________
$22730.68 driveout price
I paid for my car by personal check and loan check provided by my bank. When filling out paperwork with the salesperson, he asked me to provide my name and Social Security Number on a credit application and sign it. I told him that there was no need for me to provide that information or to fill out any portion of a credit application because I was not asking for a loan from them. He said he could not sell me a car without this information because the federal government made disclosure of the purchaser's Social Security Number a requirement related to changes made because of 9/11. So I provided it.
Today I requested my credit report from one of the three credit reporting bureaus. Fairfax Hyundai, it turns out, checked my credit. I'm not sure what database they check in order to find out if the federal government has me flagged but if it's related to 9/11 then it would likely be a government database, not a credit bureau. I don't see why they needed to check my credit report.
My question for you is if you were not looking into a loan from the dealer, were you required to give your Social Security Number in order to purchase your car?
If not, do you feel that the salesperson was just BSing me?
If the dealership is in the wrong, what do you feel I should ask from them besides having them remove the inquiry from my credit report?
Thanks for your input.
While the Federal Government keeps many Databases, rest assured Fairfax Hyundai does not have a way of accessing them!.
Now if you wrote a Check over a certain amount ($10,000), they might require you to fill out a form that would contain your SSN#.
Since you bought from them, why not brush up on your Credit rights, (Google), and then contact the General Manager at the Dealership. Tell him the story, and see what type of free service & stuff he might want to offer you?. :confuse:
22345 MSRP
$20,754 negotiated price
-$2,500 rebate
$18,254 vehicle price
-$2,000 Trade (95 camry)
$16,254
Just have to wait for the financing... Hopefully I will get the car tomorrow.
I see then. You'll still love the SE, yet I must tell you, the Leather is awesome!. It is not hateable
Can I get both of these offers? Are they always using "or"? And is that $400 college/graduate rebate still active? The webpage says it expired on 07/31. http://www.hyundaiusa.com/financing/specialoffers/collegegraduate.aspx
Thanks a lot.
(I realize every dealer is different.)
Thanks.
-Jamie
Also, they promised me floor mats with the car, and are now reneging on the deal, claiming they are not included with the car. True enough, they are not on the sticker, but I was promised them by the salesman, and got a we-owe signed by them, and they are included with the deal. They want 80 dollars for them (dealer cost 57, sticker price 85) according to Edmunds TMV. I agreed to pay half of 57, but now they want half of 80. Opinions please? I am just flabbergasted that they built such a good car with so many extras, and want to ding me to death after the sale.
If you have a "we owe" statement that says floor mats are included, the floor mats are included.. Don't offer to pay half of anything...
Pay the $143 that you owe on your car, insist on your floor mats... then get on with enjoying your car..
regards,
kyfdx
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Has anyone negotiated below this? How much longer is the rebate going to last?
Is the reason rebates for 6 cyls higher because of gasoline prices?
I got the same car (sans spoiler) for $16,600 from the same dealer. It was easy.
That is why the contract stipulates all of the variables... loan payoff, trade-in allowance, etc..
Though, I doubt this will end up as a negative on the buyer's credit report... The dealer can't sell the used car without paying off the loan... They aren't going to hold back $143 from the payoff check... that does them no good at all...
But.. you owe what you owe on your old car... How can that be the dealer's responsibility?
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I'm not saying that the dealer will not pay the $143 just to make the problem go away, but they are under no obligation to. Chances are that they will if push comes to shove, and the money will probably come out of the salesperson's paycheck, as he or the finance person are ultimately responsible for the numbers.
What your dealership did was spot deliver a car without an approval. That is a totally different circumstance here. Please don't be offended, I'm just stating facts here.
I'm planning on buying in spring 2007. Ant idea when the deals for 2007s start to get real good?
I am in Ohio.
What's the lowest I can expect to pay for the asking price? How about all those additional fees? They're giving me miscellaneous fees, not including tax, that add up to about $660. What's reasonable all told?
$242 4 yr registration, $199 window etching, $189 documents, $27 credit bureau, $7.50 tire tax. Kelley Sticker Price is $21,625. It's loaded with all the standard Limited model options.
Rebates are not available "post-purchase."
Thanks