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Comments
That's probably why 95's haven't been called yet.
Jesse
I guess if it does, I just replace it as it wasn't too complicated, or looked so, when I put my new bezel cover (the clear piece) in. It felt like there was only a few more screws or things holding it on behind the radio, probably around the vent. At the max, a 3 hr. job.
I am having th same problem at idle, more noticeable when the a/c is on. Fine during acceleration, exept the first second from a stand-still, then it is fine until idle.
A few weeks ago I noticed hesitation while accelerating and decided to change the plugs and fuel press. regulator. Well the plugs were disgusting and I put in new Iridium plugs.
At first it was like magic, this thing was flying...no hesitation and the new FPR fixed the hard starts perfectly. NOW as time goes on the idle keeps geting worse and worse, so I think I'll go back to the AC Delco plugs, but after reading your issue, it seems like the same thing? It feeels like a mis-firing cylinder like you said?
The TAC is bouncing when I feel the mis-firing, again only during idle.
I'll keep checking to see if there are any ideas before I bring it in...
THX. Jay
Also, when the car is idling in park or neutral, the problem is alsmost non-existant. As soon as I slide it into drive (especially when the air is on)it misfires terribly until I move.
I'll let you know how it reacts with the AC plugs back in.
The engine started to leak oil on my garage floor at 88,000 miles. Prior to this, I had never had an oil leak that showed up on my garage floor.
I had the service department at my dealership (Curran Cadillac, Westport, CT) check the engine for leaks. The finding was leaks on the block at the cylinder heads as well as the bottom of the block. A common problem for the NorthStar engine.
The Service Manager recommended that I replace the engine seals to correct the problem. This seemed like a good idea; since I had an extended warranty and this repair would "only" cost me a $100 deductible.
The repair was done using Time-serts for the aluminum heads and block. This is a recommended, BUT NOT GM required service procedure.
Unfortunately, the Time-sert repair did NOT last beyond 500 miles due to "brittleness" of the original block. This seems to be a problem with NorthStar block from the 1996 timeframe.
The Service Manager at the dealership worked very hard on my behalf to arrange with GM GoodWrench Service to replace the engine. The rational was that the car had always been maintained by the factory schedule and serviced at the dealership.
It took about (4) weeks, but I did end up with a new GM GoodWrench Northstar Engine with a 12,000 mile warranty.
The car is now idling as it should. Good lesson - stay away from the after market plugs, particularly the iridium. Even the parts-store guy said they have discontinued their iridium plugs due to issues like mine.
I checked the gap on the outbound iridium plugs, and they were all roughly .010 too wide, and I only had to adjust a couple of the AC Delco’s to the .050 gap.
All good for now except the $200.00 worth of plugs I’ve purchased in the last 4 weeks. Not sure if I can take the iridium plugs back to Canadian Tire ..
Headlights and other lights flash on and off even with the car shut off and noone near it. I have heard about the grease theory but my dealer denied grease was the cause when I asked him about it. So I paid the money like all the other easy touches that GM has lined up.
For me, it's the second search result.
BTW I love that name
thanks in advance.
The problem turned out to be the main computer in the car according to the dealer. He replaced the computer and everything is good. The trouble is that the error codes for the ICM and the crank sensor may have been in error. There may have been nothing wrong with those parts. Apparently when the computer goes bad it causes the system to spit out error codes. LIVE AND LEARN.
This educational moment was brought to you free by Henri (but it cost me over $400.00 in potentially unnecssary repairs).
Two other postings suggest either the Ignition Control Module and the MAF Sensor(whatever that is)
I'll see what these parts involve cost-wise and perhaps I'll keep going before bringing it to the dealer.
My 95 has developed a rough idle. I put my scanner to it and it says code 46 which says right to left fuel out of balance. I put in new spark plugs and new wires. I also wiped a lot of carbon from throttle body. This has not done anything. Any suggestions?
You can get them form any of the ACDelco wholesalers for under $50 a piece. Not too hard to install either.
I am trying to remove the tensioner for the serpentine belt. I reviewed post #1492 which says:
"On my '97 I had to remove the tensioner to get clearance to remove and replace the belt. It was easy to do as the tensioner is held in place by the two threaded studs to which the cover is attached. BTW, my cover is steel; interesting that yours is plastic. There is no tension adjustment to make as the tensioner takes care of that."
As I examine the tensioner for removal, I cannto find these two threaded studs. Can anyoen elaborate on their location?
My serpentine belt snapped after 9 months, so I am replacing it again, but this time, I want to replace the tensioner pulley (got an OEM one from NAPA) and the water pump belt.
Thanks!
Maytag
Post 1492 is mine. It is about the water pump belt, not the serpentine accessory belt.
There are posts with photos stating that the engine must be pulled in order to replace the serpentine belt tensioner. Let us know what you find out as I want to do that too (but not pulling the engine).
How did you buy an OEM tensioner at NAPA?
Les
Got home today, turned the car off, but the lights wouldn't go off as usual - they just flickered like crazy with a weird droning noise from the dash. I had to turn the car on and off a few times for the possessed lights to quit the goofy show.
What is it?
Greg
If you can't find it, drop me an email and I'll send you the link (can't post it here because it's considered a competitive site to Edmunds and they'll delete my post).
--Robert
driving his Aurora because his rear suspension is busted in his new GTO :-(
Robert, what happened to the goat?
I have it scheduled to go in on Monday anyway for some maintenance stuff. If I can't figure it out, I'll just have to pay. I don't have a spare moment to jerk around with the car.
I'm guessing this switch might be accessible under the dash - by taking the cover off that's under the steering column??? I've had it off before - that's easy. Maybe I'll find something.
I found that the battery could be completely drained, so I found a fuse under the rear seat to disable the flashing. Part of the problem was that it was intermittent. I was lucky to get it to the dealer while the problem was active; I had about 300 miles left on the warranty. Good luck.
Les
Started making clunking noises from the rear end. There's a TSB for clunking in the rear under agressive acceleration, but this was just going over bumps (me? accelerate aggressively? :-)
Even though the TSB came out in April and my car was built in May, after the VIN break, dealership says this is the problem. Unfortunately, parts are on backorder for several days. I declined the offered Sunfire rental :-)
Bummed,
--Robert
You just can't go from a performance car to a Cavalier (Sunfire - a Cavalier by any other name). I mean I got dusted by a minivan while driving the Cavalier. It does not get any worse than that.
It sounds like there is a separate tensioner for the water pump belt that I was not aware of. I guess I will have to locate that water pump belt tensioner. I misunderstood that to replace the water pump belt, you had to remove the serpentine belt tensioner, when in fact, it appears the water pump belt has its own tensioner, and *that* is what must be removed.
The serpentine belt tensioner pulley was thought to be binding up, in that when you spin it, it will only spin about 1/4 turn on its own. It was thought that this was an indication that the serpentine belt pulley was not in good shape. So at Napa, I was able to buy a new pulley to install on my existing serpentine belt tensioner. Not that I can get that off, and now I know why - if the motor must come out to remove it! Napa said they also had the complete serpentine tensioner available that can be ordered for $72 or so.
It sounds like I will have to locate the water pump belt tensioner, remove the two threaded studs and swap that belt before the inevitable happens. Any suggestions on where I should look for the water pump belt tensioner?
Thanks!
Maytag
I think I remember some talk about GM requiring a certain additive to the coolant for the Aurora. If anybody knows what this is, please give me a definitive link (like GM) that I can take to the dealer.
Part of the problem may be that the service rep hasn't a clue and can't answer technical questions. They may pre-mix the stuff into the coolant at the dealer for all I know.
I really hate taking the car in for anything. I swear that it comes back and something else doesn't feel right. I swear they give it the Samsonite Gorilla treatment. Not worth going into...