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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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    auora2001ncauora2001nc Member Posts: 2
    Hope you can help with this. Check engine light is on, low engine coolant keeps popping up after i took to dealership & they said nothing was wrong with it & re-set the computer. still showing check engine light & low engine coolant.
    About 2 weeks ago, put 3 gals of gas in, drove to a gas station (Costco) for cheaper gas & my car tried to turn over but it took several tries before it started up. Every since then, the car has not started immediately. I never had any issues with the hardware before. It's been a great car. Now, this morning, i went to start & same thing only it made a noise like something came loose & next try, it started immediately BUT sounded like something was hitting the fan.
    the last car i had the rod broke in the engine so i dont' want to start it up in case there is engine/motor damage. :cry: HELP please.... :sick:

    Thanks, Aurora in NC :shades:
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    auora2001ncauora2001nc Member Posts: 2
    both Crank Sensors had gone out causing delay in starting, an engine mount was broke, & coolant leak..
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    tims1tims1 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone ever had the sunroof not close in the proper position? Mine seems like it needs to come up 3/16 or so to be flush with the roof. Is there a adjustment that can be made? Thanks.

    Tim
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    omalleyomalley Member Posts: 3
    Is there a way to trouble shoot the fuel pump. Is there any fixing the fuel pump?
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    rochestercamrochestercam Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 97' aurora with about 73k on it, I've personally put on 12k.
    2 days ago when I cold started the car, with my foot off the brake it started up smooth but then went forward a few inches and made a grinding noise.

    When I arrived at work, with the car at around 200 F., I shut the car off, and then restarted the car, it started back up fine, no noises or rolling forward in park. At lunch when the car cooled down, and sitting in park gear for a while, I then started the car, and again it went forward and made the grinding noise. Yesterday with my foot on the brake starting it cold, it still made the grinding noise after the car started up.

    Today when I started the car when I was leaving from work, the grinding noise happened, and didnt stop, even when I shifted into a different gear while parked. I shut the car off, then restarted it, and it didnt make the grinding noise. The tranny fluid life is at 100%... like most auroras.

    What does this all point to, think its too much metal in the tranny because of a lack of tranny fluid changes over the life of the car, or worse?

    I'm 21, in college working full time, I'm afraid to take it to a shop or to a dealership as I expect the prices to be upwards of atleast 1K. I'm used to working on rear wheel drive camaros, but definately not a transaxle, worse yet, a luxury car with expensive parts. I really like this car, I'd like to fix the problem so I can keep it. :sick:
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    pl390pl390 Member Posts: 7
    Hi, 1997 aurora with 69K miles. Put the car in gear today and the traction control light stayed on and made the same noise is if the tires were slipping in the snow. Dry day here and on pavment. I pulled up 20' and stoped and it will not go away, in drive, neutral, reverse or even park. I had the front brakes check last month becaus eI thought that they felt questionable but the wrench siad that they were fine and wouldn't take my money, go figure. Could one of the calipers be hanging up and causing this. Thank you in advance for you help,

    pl390
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Front hub assembly/wheel speed sensor is the first place I'd look.
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    pl390pl390 Member Posts: 7
    I am sorry dont have a repair book yet, where would I find this sensor ? A am assuming by the front caliper assembly.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Seems to me that if you go through the trouble to pull the fuel pump, replacing it would be your best option. Don't want to try to repair it (assuming you know how), only to have to re-pull it should it not work right...

    Do a search for a fuel pump for your car at GMPartsDirect.com, vanchevrolet.com, or rockauto.com - that should give you an idea of the pump's price.

    --Robert
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I believe it's integrated into the wheel hub assembly - need to replace the whole thing.

    Some directions can be found at this site:

    http://www.howardm.net/dred98/underhood.php

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
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    pl390pl390 Member Posts: 7
    Robert, thank you. Even though I can turn a mean wrench, I don't think I want this job. I will try to find a local shop here in Detroit before I get it to the dealer.

    Pete
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    pl390pl390 Member Posts: 7
    Robert, I am sorry one morequestion, how can you tell which wheel assembly is bad?
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    jimberjimber Member Posts: 1
    (99 aurora) - service engine light was on / cleared - evap system problem...i replaced the gas cap / cleared the code self - light came back on - plus there is never escaping pressure when i unscrew the cap...can my evap system have a leak ? where can i find details on piping routing, operation and troubleshooting - car runs fine but in NY i cannot pass annual inspection with the code light on ..
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Good question. Perhaps using a friend to stand on one side of the vehicle when you drive it (you are hearing the ABS engage sound, right), then the other side, might help point out which is the offending one. It may become obvious when you put it up on a lift and remove the wheels/rotors...

    Or, if you end up taking it to a dealer, they should be able to tell. I assume you're just getting the T/C light, no other trouble lights?

    --Robert
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    The service manuals are your friend. $135 from http://www.helminc.com - or you might be able to find them on eBay. There are also some eBay sellers who sell GM service manuals on CD - if you have Windows 2000 or XP, this might be a cheaper solution (especially if you have more than one GM car).

    Otherwise, there are solutions like http://www.alldatadiy.com

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    how can you tell which wheel assembly is bad?

    By using an ABS capable scan tool to check for stored diagnostic trouble codes, then monitor wheel speed sensor signals and looking for a signal dropout, rather than guessing which bearing is defective.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Is there a way to trouble shoot the fuel pump. Is there any fixing the fuel pump?

    Use a fuel pressure guage to monitor pressure. The pump's a replacement item.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Robert,

    Since you posted the link to instructions for replacing front hubs, I assume you know about the 34mm socket and Torx 55 required. While these aren't unique to Auroras, they are tools that few shadetree mechanics would already have.

    Retracting rear caliper pistons when replacing brake pads requires a special tool. I have not been able to find one that fits exactly. I bought one of those cubes, but none of the faces fit. I ended up using a round two-sided tool that I had for my Fiero; it did not fit quite right, but worked. Also need a large c-clamp to push both front and rear pistons into their calipers enough to provide clearance to rotate the calipers away from the rotors.

    I have not replaced my serpentine accessory belt yet. I cannot figure out how to take the pressure off the tensioner. I have done it on other cars using a regular ratchet (1/2" I think, but maybe 3/8"). The problem with my Aurora is there is no room to fit a ratchet -- there is only 1/4" to 3/8" clearance to a large flat plate. I wonder if there is a special tool for that job.

    Please post your list.

    Les
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    don20don20 Member Posts: 3
    I am wondering what electrical connections you were fooling with.......I just purchased a 98 Aurora and it stalls over large bumps. Ses light comes on then goes out. The first thing I though of was is that it was a loose electrical connection somewhere. It happens too fast to be fuel etc. Any help?
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    ladyauroraladyaurora Member Posts: 5
    I had the same thing. It is actually the starter which is located on the top end of the motor. I was able to continue to start it by being patient until it turned over after some clicks for years!!!! If you don't mind it.

    Lady Aurora
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    ladyauroraladyaurora Member Posts: 5
    My car has been stalling acting like it is not getting fuel however I replaced the fuel pump last week and it did it again. Any thoughts?

    P.S. for anyone who did not get notified there is a recall on fuel lines.

    Lady Aurora
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    pl390pl390 Member Posts: 7
    I took it to a local shop not a dealer that has a scan tool but could not figure out which wheel bearing is bad. It look like it will go to the dealer tomorrow.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Have you changed the fuel filter?

    Les
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    ladyauroraladyaurora Member Posts: 5
    I cannot honestly say that it has been or even looked at. I will have that checked tomorrow. Today put another fuel pump in no start. Put 2 different fuel pressure regulators no start. The fuel was up to the regulator...squirted out good when turned the key, did the starter less than 2 mos., hooked it up to start box to be sure enough volts. If it is the fuel filter being overlooked it would be bitter sweet. Anymore ideas let me know. Thank you I'll be sure it is checked.
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    alarming9alarming9 Member Posts: 10
    I had tthe same problem. The dealer thought I was nuts. That was the answer, just wee bit of refrigerent :-)
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Your first post talked about stalling and no fuel. Later one mentioned 'no start'. To me, 'stalling' and 'no start' are different conditions.

    Why consider the starter? Is it not turning the engine over at normal cranking speed?

    Sounds like you have covered fuel delivery up to the FPR and it's OK. Seems to me it's time to check ignition and injectors.

    Les
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    97andholdingon97andholdingon Member Posts: 5
    sold mine to Carmax also ( blown head thrown in for free) Used car buyers beware....
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    ladyauroraladyaurora Member Posts: 5
    It stalled, started again, went a bit, then stalled again and repeat on a couple different occasions the same thing then no start wont turn over so I replaced the fuel pump worked for a week then did it again now won't turn over and now the starter is clicking on occasion again. Pretty sure spark test done. Pretty bumbed out no time today to do the filter.
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    don20don20 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1998 aurora with 113k miles, it stalls while driving at any temp. Here's the conditions: happens at any speed when foot off accelerator and then hitting a mid sized bump! Going straight, turning, 80 mph or 5 mph. If any pressure on gas pedal is applied all is ok. Replaced - throttle position sensor, and iac. removed driver underdash panel and grabbed all ign wires and shake and pull vigorously OK, removed underdash pass panel and grabbed and shake/pull ecm and cbx boxes - nothing. Tapped, banged, pulled, grabbed and shake all under hood wires and connectors - nothing. Removed rear seat and cleaned all battery connections and grabbed pulled and banged all wires relay etc - with no problems. When the problem occurs ses light flashes briefly and speedo drops to zero (no matter how fast I'm going). Most times (depending on speed) car re starts by itself unless I am going too slow. A bumpy downhill road is impossible to drive without stalling. An uphill bumpy road or when pressure applied to pedal there is no problem. Power braking downhill and all is ok. Any guesses? Car runs and drives perfectly otherwise and everything else works perfectly. I have a scan tool and get no readings. I have purposely unplugged sensors to make sure tool works and it is fine. HELP! :confuse:
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Wow! Your observation about pressure or not on the gas pedal makes this "interesting." Here are my thoughts:

    Sounds to me like a loose ground, but I don't know where to start looking other than what you have already done. Do you have the factory service manual? You might want to trace each of the grounds and confirm it is good. My '97 manual has 18 pages on ground distribution. I could copy it and mail to you if that would help.

    You wrote that the ses light flashes and the speedo goes to zero. Do other gauges or indicators misbehave? Might be a good thing to remove and reseat the PCM connectors (you may have already done that).

    There is a throttle position adjustment screw on the throttle body adjacent to the throttle return spring. If you were to use that screw to open the throttle a bit -- mimicking pressure on the gas pedal, the result might help localize the cause of the problem. I'm suggesting this for troubleshooting, not as a solution.

    Strange that you have no codes. Our PCMs have three kinds of codes (at least): trouble codes, pending codes, and freeze-frame codes. Can your scan tool capture and display all three? I ask because there are many scan tools with widely differing capabilities.

    Can your scan tool display operational parameters as you drive? If so, it might be informative to have a passenger watch the TPS output signal as the problem occurs.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
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    phildbrinsonphildbrinson Member Posts: 1
    Have the same type problem, have checked fuses, switch, etc. Hoping you can shade some light!
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    kurzzkurzz Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I was hoping someone could help me. I would like to know how difficult it is to replace the oil pressure sending unit. Any info as far as where it is actually located, etc., would be very helpful. Additionally, I was told that the GM part # had changed, and the shop that was able to get the part for me today gave me a STANDARD brand part, any info on this would be appreciated as well.

    I had been suffering a low reading at idle, as have many on this board before me, and had always meant to change the sender, when I got a zero pressure reading at startup-I hope that this is the solution. Thanks.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I just bought one from RockAuto.com. The ACDelco part number is 03547417; sometimes the leading zero isn't used. I have not replaced mine yet, so do not know the difficulty. Location is side of engine toward front of engine compartment -- somewhere around the oil filter. My oil pressure shows 8psi at operating temp at idle; that has bothered me for years, but it is very common as you know. Whether it is correct or not, I do not know. Factory service manual shows minimum of 5psi, meaning the warning comes on at 4psi.

    Let us know how you make out.

    Les
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    In cold temps, my oil light would come on. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - it's black, and looks about the size of a roll of quarters - for about $25 when I did my own oil change about three months back. Was very easy. There's a link to Howard's (dred98) Aurora page I posted a few pics back - look at the oil change instructions - you can see it in those posts. On a 1-10 scale, 1 being easy and 10 being hard, this project is a "2" (hardest part is jacking the car up :-)

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
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    kurzzkurzz Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input. I poked around and found the unit. It had been unplugged, so I took care of that. My only question now is whether I should use the "STANDARD" brand part, or switch it for an AC/Delco part because of the calibration issues people have mentioned. Thanks again.
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    aurora1999aurora1999 Member Posts: 6
    I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator and now the car is stalling on the expressway when I start coming to a stop (this did not happen before I replaced the FPR), and also at stop lights once and awhile. and yes the fuel filter has been changed. I was also wondering what the car should idle at??? Mine idles between 500-700. Any suggestions???
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Very interesting! I did not know this could be done. If you do not get any usable responses from this board, you might be able to find a '97 autobahn VIN on eBay.

    Les
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Use the AC Delco part, for the exact calibration issue you mentioned. I was told this by one of the guys who designed the Northstar, and posts on another Caddy-based web site (which has an Aurora section).

    --Robert
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Did you replace your FPR with an AC Delco, or third-party part?
    If you reinstall the old one, does the problem still occur? If so, the replacement is defective (I had to do exactly that - my replacement AC Delco unit shipped with the wrong size O-rings).

    --Robert
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    aurora1999aurora1999 Member Posts: 6
    The dealership replaced the FPR, but they said it was bad. Today I called the dealership and he told me to put dry gas in it because it had sat for while before I bought it. But it did't stall on me yet today, knock on wood!! any other suggestions? Thanks
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...if the car sat awhile, all bets are off. Do you know the maintenance history on the vehicle? What the dealership did to it before you bought it? Do you know if the fuel filter has been changed, if the injectors have been cleaned (use Techron religiously, it helps)? How many miles again?

    --Robert
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    don20don20 Member Posts: 3
    Don here,
    After reading so many problems with fuel pressure regulator I decided to change it (I work in a bone yard and have plenty of engines to pick from).........Well that solved the problem. I was positive it was an electrical thing but NOOOO. I now have a new problem but at least no dying over bumps!....It now runs REAL rough until it's warmed up then purrs like a kitten.....I'm working on that one now and in the meantime I have ordered a new pressure regulator because the only one I could find in our yard has 90k miles.......I figure I'm only buying a little time before that one goes.....Who'd a thunk it!
    Thanks for your responses and I'll let you know what happens with this one.
    :D
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    aurora1999aurora1999 Member Posts: 6
    I don`t know exactly how long the car sat. The car was kept up on. I changed the fuel filter and the injectors have not been cleaned as far as I know. I don`t know how to clean them. What exactly is Techron?? I just put dry gas in the car and it ran fine until I had to slow down from 45mph to 25mph and it stalled again. I am about to give up and sell the car. Ohh, the car only had 51,000 mile when I got it. When I got it back from the dealership after they fixed it is when the stalling started, I had only had the car 5 day and it never stalled. I don`t know I am just sick of this car not working right..
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    sezersezer Member Posts: 1
    Hi every one,

    I have 98 aurora 69 k and same problem. Is it important? How can we solve this problem? :(

    Thank you
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    scaveryscavery Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Aurora and I love it. The only issue I have with it is the Climate Control System. When you turn the fan on, it does not start blowing for 20 minutes, the Defrost does the same thing. I got in the car after it had been raining, and the windows were all fogged up, and would not clear. It was a safety hazard!
    I read through the manual, and it says that it will take up to 20 minutes for everything to start working, blowing etc....
    It also gets very hot where I live, and to have the car wait 20 minutes before the air conditioning kicks on is way to long to wait, even the vent does not blow out any air.
    Does anyone have any suggestions as how to over ride the 20 minute settings?
    Thanks in advance....
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    alonzohamalonzoham Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Aurora and I recently noticed a milky substance in the coolant holder and the low coolant message has been coming on does anyone know what the problem is??????????
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    jojo4jojo4 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same car and the same problem ( I think). I have a 2001 4.0, fully loaded. The sound emitting from the front end sounds like a rubbing sound that increases in speed and loudness the faster the car goes. Took it to my mechanic and he immediately said that it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Changed it and $300.00 later the sound was still there. A friend said that he had a similiar problem with his car, and the outcome was that his fan was rubbing. Had my mechanic check the fan and no luck there. After the 4th visit he told me that every thing in this car seems to be fine, bearings, fans, tires (which were rotated). His final suggestion was to change the oil, because I use 5-30, he thought it might be too thin. Changed to 10-40, nothings changed. This is a luxury vehicle that should not sound loud and racey. If I can't fix this problem I'm gonna have to sell this car in which I've grown to love. But this has become extrenely annoying along with the creeks and squeeks this car emmits for absolutely no apparent reason. The build quality is horrendous for a car with so much potential. Let me know if you found the solution and I'm open to any feed back from anyone in the forum. Thanks!
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    jojo4jojo4 Member Posts: 4
    After it rains I have a great deal of water settling in my trunk. Have to fish it out with a large cup. Does anyone Know how it gets there and how to stop it?
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    aurora1999aurora1999 Member Posts: 6
    What is an EGR Valve and what exactly does it do??? someone thought that could be a possiblity or the crank sensor, my check engine light never comes on so nobody can check the code if there is one

    Thanks :confuse:
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    On my car, it was the weatherstripping on the right side of the inside of the trunk that was loose. Water was collecting in the spare tire well. Best way to find it is to do the "friend in trunk with flashlight" trick, and stand outside with a hose, until they can see the water coming in...

    --Robert
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