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A shop that installs remote starter systems has the resistor packs to replace the VATS resistor sinc their system takes over the security for the car.
Does your systemdo that where it takes three tries and then you're locked out or are you locked out from the first try?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I took the car to a different dealer today and was told that the sensor needs to be replaced and new keys issued. This will cost between $350-$400 as they need to access it through the steering column. It's beginning to look as though I don't have a choice. Do these cars really NEED to have keys with chips? My 2001 Aurora does not have an external chip it just looks like a regular key.
I really like this forum. We used the extensive directions from this site,(along with the help of my brother-in-law and his friend), to access and clean the multi-function switch on this vehicle. It seemed a huge undertaking to me; but the directions were explicit and saved me the $600 estimated dealer cost to replace the switch. Better yet, no more flashing parking lights!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
paul
Thanks for your answer to my post several months ago regarding the FPR. My car was getting hard to start so I finally replaced the FPR (I am a procrastinator!). Now my 98 starts right up.
Hope this helps.
Kent
I don't have a clue about the starter solenoid connection, but I do have a similar problem on my 95 Aurora with the blower inside the passenger foot well (not sure if that is HVAC or not) continuing to blow (fairly high) even after I shut the engine off. It continued for several hours while I looked around this site for clues... The only thing I could figure for the short-term is pull the fuse under the rear seat. The best response I saw sounded like it might be a Blower motor control module (?). A) Do you agree, and b) where is it? I pulled a few things from around the blower, but don't know enough about electrical to just start unplugging stuff. Any clues for what to look for?
Kent
It's like the resistors of old days that were used to reduce voltage to the blowers. When you picked any lower speed the wire connected to the resistors, like toaster wires, inside the blower box. The number of resistors the power went through determined the lower voltage the blower got and thus a lower speed. If the air quit blowing, the resistors would burn up, or sometimes they just burned up on their own.
The modern electronic control gives many variable speeds for the auto air conditioning. I don't have a diagram of your Aurora, but I'm going by how the Park Aves and LeSabres are built.
The piece will be about 1 X 3.5 inchees and about 5-7 inches long in the direction that is inside the air stream inside the blower box.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Close but no cigar (well, maybe half). The "rod" is one of the four camshafts, none of which are driven by the serpentine belt. They are driven by the timing chains.
I like this arrangement because the pump belt and tensioner are very easy to replace (unlike the serpentine and its tensioner) and losing the serpentine belt has no effect on the coolant pump unlike most other engines.
Les
Jay
You're right. I just knew "something" was driving the belt on the other end for the water pump.
I actually stumbled on to this by accident in a totally unrelated discussion. But, when I saw "water pump" referenced, I knew having an overheating condition, I better check it out. Luckily enough, it was just a $6 belt and it was pretty easy to get to and fix once I knew where to look.
Thanks for the clarification. Any thoughts on what type of technical reference manual to use for a '95 Aurora. The closest I've been able to find is a Haynes Repair Manual for '94 - '02 Cadillac DeVille/Seville...
Kent
If only the other repairs were as easy as the pump belt!
I strongly recommend the two-volume factory service manual from Helm. At ~$135 from HELM (if I remember correctly) it is a bit pricey but worth it. You can often find them on eBay for considerably less.
Les
just purchased (from a FREIND) a 1995 aurora,classic I believe, I have a few questions, but most I think i can find through the forum.
1 question I am not sure of is
I have a 95 (with a 94 born on date on the drivers side door), I have found a parts car with the steering wheel on the floor and an engine that runs for $300 (A Steal for the engine and tranny alone) The parts car is a 96(with matching colors all the way through). I need to know what are technical and the mechanical differences between the two? I have numerous problems with cosmetic things ie.. dash lights, rear power window, sunroof. I also have issues with others, mainly the AC does not work, for what ever reason, and also might need to change or repair the tranny, and also spare parts like free ignit. coils, fans, pulleys, etc. etc. etc.
to keep it short, can I pull the other ac compressor and see if it works, I have noticed on the 96 there is a different button where the pass cont button is. I beilive it is an air recirculation button. can I leave the original duct system and use the newer compressor, or need to replace various parts???
if so there are multiple parts that play affect, will it work???
possible changes??
1 AC compressor
2 duct system ( if Pheasable )
3 AC controls ( different button )
4 (And Lord forbid) The Computer, which I am usure of because of the OBDI and the OBDII issue
Help would be much appreciated!! by the way 150,000 miles on both vehicles, and I know that I shouldn't mix and match worn equipment, but paid 1500 for the car (monthly installments of 150 which i couldn't pass) and i figure theres going to be a long road the beast, but I do enjoy the heck out of it, and a spare motor to start overhualing
(FINGERS CROSSED, Free manuals apreciated!!) to keep me busy. I JUST CANT GO OUT AND BUY $600 dollar vintage parts for the touchy car Thanxx
I do not have definitive answers to your questions, but I think I can help. I own a '97. We use "classic" to distinguish '95-'99 from 2001+.
There were quite a few changes from '95 to '96:
* OBD I to OBD II is probably the most important. I would be very surprised if swapping the '96 computer into your '95 would be "plug-and-play." The '95 had a changeable EPROM; later years did not. For this reason the '95 is the only Aurora that can have a performance chip installed.
* the backglass was reshaped to reduce visual distortion
* panic button was added to remote keyless entry
* door locks were made programmable
* as you noted, recirculation was added to climate control system
* plumbing to the surge tank changed ('95 has two hoses at the top, later years have only one)
* only '95's have a black rectangular box over the coils. I have never figured out what that is. The coils and ignition mogule are the same '95-'99.
I do not know of any reason that changing the compressor would necessitate changing the passenger compartment ductwork. That would be a bear of a job. AC compressors siezing is a common Aurora problem.
Power windows not working is often caused by broken wires where they are flexed by the doors being opened and closed.
Someone used to sell an Aurora parts list on eBay; I haven't noticed lately if it is still being sold. That would allow you to determine the differences in part numbers from year to year.
eBay can be a good source for new and used parts. I recommend getting the Helm factory service manual.
Good luck.
Les
This board is the greatest. Thanks to all the others that offered suggestions.
paul
Check the fuel rail in both cars. Original was hard, black nylon that often cracked, spewing gas, and burning several Auroras. The replacement is stainless steel. GM pays for the replacement. I don't know about the '96 parts car, though.
Les
Woke up this morn to go to the store to get some smokes, and low and behold!!!!
Shift out of park, into reverse and the dang thing ROLLS forward, it wont go into any gears, besides park( which it does engage ) Checked tranny fluid and it was bone dry, I know how, and when to check trans fluid, but 6 hours before it was running fine. poured plenty of juice back in praying that a gear will engage, but no such luck (of Course). NOT a transmission man, nor do I want to be (too many gears, naturally) The car had just been in 2 months ago for the not shifting out of second gear problem.
Havent done any undercar work as of yet, but I dont seem to see this problem on the Bulletins. I can get a replacement tranny but GEEZ. Is this a possible linkage problem (not the driver linkage funny guys). Should I repair or replace,
the other trannys condition is unknown, but with my luck here lately I dont want to press. IS this a fix it over the weekend or do I need a pro. Mechanically inclined, but have ZERO experience with Trannys ( always owned a stick )
by the way 6 quarts went in and its empty now, I know I know I got a leak, could that be the only problem, unlikely.
and another thing that car is the heaviest thing around, I had to use a come a long, and tree to get it in a decent spot to start the fun.
Yalls info is much appreciated THANX
p.s. didnt get the car in the right spot until dark, so didn't get a good look, but didnt notice a river if transmission fluid. GEEZ
I recently had a similiar problem, the fan would work intermitenly, then would only blow a little bit of air. Then it gave out all together, and would blow no air.
For my fix it was the blower control module, hope this helps.
C
Can anyone help me! Before I spend a small fortune on this? What else may be draining the battery???
I believe this picture is the shape of the part for your car. The ribbed surface is inside the blower case so that it's cooled by the air flow past it. Notice the two bolts holding it against the case.
blower control module
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I had to part with my dear 4.0 '97 Classic. Its a shame too because of the other black aurora i see in my area none are as nice looking. The car had serious overheating problems, and other problems since i purchased it used. I loved the car the power, the features THE POWER! God that car had guts. But i had either a cracked head or a bad head gasket. I know this, i put an emissions sniffer in my pressure tank for the anti-freeze and the exhaust gasses were over 2500 ppm
so i parted with the lady, hardwired the fans to run constantly and had the heater running (in the summer mind you) just to keep it drivable. then i pawned it off as a trade to a dealer and got my import. I mean so far... on the mitsubishi forms... no problems
great car... too many bugs... wasnt worth keeping it. if i want more power... ill get a turbo
Good luck former auROARAs
Evan
Hope that helps
paul
Thanks,
David
Any help is appreciated.
paul
Phil
Phil