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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions
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This is what we did with my fiancee's car, a 1996 Ford Contour, and believe me the light came on often. It was supposedly the EGR valve, so we replaced that. The light came on again but now it's off (I hope for good). Next time we'll buy a Toyota that will last like my truck which has 182,200+ miles on it!!
Good luck with your truck.
I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake manifold.....toyota couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving
/mike
I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake manifold.....toyota couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving
/mike
I have a 2003 3.4, V6, 4x4, 5 speed. While traveling at highway speeds, if I have to brake hard the RPM's are delayed for up to 1.5 seconds before the idle starts to drop. This occurs with and without cruise control being on.
I'd like to also note that my last truck was a T-100 with the 3.4 V6 engine - so I am very familiar with how this engine should respond.
Dealer claims this a a computer problem and Toyota has not issued a TSB yet. Dealer also claims that this feature was added to reduce jerky feeling when shifting gears.
The problem is a serious safety issue. When traveling at highway speeds, in an emergency, you can't afford to loose 1.5 secords of braking time.
Additionally there is the added wear on your front disk brake pads due to the engine trying to maintain RPM while brakes are trying to stop the truck.
If anyone has noticed this problem please notify your dealer and this list. To check your truck, next time you're cruising at 55 or 65 mph, note the RPM - then if you have to brake hard try to note if the RPM drops immediately or, hangs up for a second or two. Another way to check this is, while parked, race engine to 2500-3000 RPM then switch foot from gas to brake pedal. Note the RPM and engine sound. You will find the engine still maintaining that 2500-3000 RPM.
Also, Dealer pointed out that unless there are more complaints, Toyota 'will not' do anything about this problem.
If you'd like to respond directly, contact me at Mikel52686@aol.com.
Thanks to all
Mike
It sounds like I have a 10yr old truck with 150,000 miles.
Anyone else have this problem?
I have had this truck for 28-months and in that time put 40,134-miles on it, of which 95% are highway. Its my daily driver and I hardly use this vehicle as a pickup (telephone desk jockey). Yet, I am being told that as belts get old the dry, get hard, and are prone to slippage.
Well, I don't live in a dry climate zone (Georgia) and I would not think this should occur after 28-months. The dealership (Toyota Mall of Georgia) service writer (Matt Askins) informed me on Saturday that his technician said this is typical and expected, especially on this engine.
Yesterday, that dealership's service manager (Robert Acuff) said they 'dressed' the belts to stop the squealing, and when I picked it up it was about 54ºF. The problem reared its ugly head (and continues to) in temperatures in the 34-36ºF range. When i picked up the truck the belts were not making noise.
When I left work last night (1AM this morning) the belt(s) squealed like I had gotten a cat (or two) in the engine compartment. I let the engine warm up before making the drive home. No dice. The squealing stayed quite loud and I drove 35-miles home in 34-36ºF weather at below the speed limit (all interstate travel in Atlanta).
When I got home I woke the wife before even pulling into the driveway because the noise was easily heard. So, I took the vehicle back to the dealership (squealing) and was informed that the serpentine is probably the problem. I was also informed that this belt IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE DRIVETRAIN WARRANTY.
Nice. So, I am looking at a good and healthy repair bill for a vehicle I've tried my best to take care of, always let the dealership do all of the accelerated srvice, use synthetic oils, etc., etc., etc. but this 28-month old truck will cost me several hundred dollars to repair unless there is some sort of good-will warranty that is available and employed at the descretion of the service manager.
I already told them that I do not trust the belts, that I considered them haven failed prematurely, etc., and would not entertain driving the vehicle with the current belts in-place. I've offered on two occassions to let them take their time with the vehicle (I carpool some of the time) to resolve the problem.
I suppose if I have to fork up the money to replace the belts (serpentine and all), I'll get rid of the vehicle and buy a non-Toyota product. I cannot believe this is how I am spending the holidays (problem started just before Xmas).
You might check your owner's manual to see if it lists a recommended replacement interval for the accessory drive belts. They may just list inspection intervals and "replace as required".
Part 2: any challenges buying in Nevada/Arizona, and registering in California?
Post #9325 in the 4Runner board got me thinking, and NV/AZ have better incentives at the moment.
Thanks,
Jim
I changed my original Toyota belts at 101,000 and am now at 189,000 - so I'll change them again this summer. They are not serpentine - they are small, cheap, and there's three of them. Total cost of replacement doing it myself is under $20. with parts from Autozone. I'm almost sure the Toyota belts would be better quality, but these are cheap and last 100k. Besides once you change them, you have spares you can carry with you under the seat in case one breaks. Just don't forget to also carry your wrenches! :-)
- P.
When the time comes for my Tundra and RAV4, I will do the serpentine belt change myself. The dealers prices are exorbitant. I saw the timing belt replacement price at the dealer for the V8 Tundra at $525. I asked them if people really pay that. The service writer said yes, and even pay 79.95 for a 'differential service' which is just a drain and refill.
200$ for a diagnostic test and 135$ for each Oxygen sensor replacement. Your car has 4 Oxygen sensors. The two mounted on the exhaust pipes closer to the V8 Engine will fail sometime between 36,000 to 40,000 miles. I own a 95 V8 Lexus and 91 V6 Camry, none of them had suffered the above failure.
- P.
I have a 98 Tacoma 2.4L, 2WD 72K miles. What is happening is at light accelerator settings or when releasing the accelerator the engine stalls for just an instant and then catches itself. It does not do this consistently and happens more often when driving in the rain. It's like a miss-fire or loss of fuel to a few cylinders.
I have:
Replaced the plugs
Replaced the plugs leads and wires
Replaced the fuel filter
Had a fuel injector cleaning done
My mechanic says I need the air induction system cleaned but I'm skeptical...I think it's a bad injector, distributor or leak in the air induction system.
Anybody out there had this problem? If so, please respond as this problem is getting very expensive and aggrivating.
Thanks, svgair01
I have a 99 with the 2.4 and it sort of did the same thing.
I ended up cleaning the throttle body. (The air induction system as the mechanic stated.)
1.I did it my self by pulling off the air hose at the throttle body and used the correct spray cleaner. 2. Also with the engine running, I pulled off one of the small vacuum hoses and sprayed some cleaner into the throttle body while working the throttle. All the main air hoses have to be back on to run the engine during step 2. Also the check engine light may come on if you use too much spray. It should go out after while.
Or you can have the dealer do it.
Thxs, jktundra
Thanks.
They are located under each coil boot...Instead of one ignition coil like in older vehicles...each spark plug has its own coil boot.
1. If changing the shocks and struts, along with new tires are enough to improve the ride, or is it there not going to be much difference?
2. Is there a particular brand/make I should be looking for?
3. Should I just get my tires changed and the 50K mile service, and save the money for the Scion tC for the "better" ride?
Thanx in advance
Spyd
These are called power packs, covering iridium electrode plugs. The is no distributor, the computer does it all. The four wires charge a small ignition coil for each plug, and communicate from the computer to a transistor switch in the power pack which discharges the secondary (high voltage) side of the coil to the plug.
To Question #140...
Buy an OBD II diagnostic tester for about $150 on Ebay along with the Toyota Shop Manual($200). The two will pay for themselves if they save you two trips to the dealer's shop. The OBD II will work on any car made after '95, so you can use it for your other cars and your buddies cars too.
All the fuses are okay.