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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions



  • nealknealk Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 V 8 Tundra with 10,000 miles and experiencing the same Engine Noise on cold starts. I spoke to a Sequoia owner with the same problem. I guess it has to do with the lifters and oil viscosity on cold days. Although I am using the manufacturer’s oil recommendation, I am going to switch to synthetic and see if it fixes the problem. I bought a Toyota for the reliability and craftsmanship and I am disappointed.
  • nealknealk Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 V 8 Tundra with 10,000 and I am able to brake with the first step on the brakes, but the pedal travel is too long. On the second pump it is fine. Does anybody have the same problem? Could be air in the system or the self-adjusting mechanism be malfunctioning?
  • edgexedgex Posts: 6
    NealK, I have a 04 Tundra DC and have spoken to the dealer about the brake fade I think you are referring to. My initial pressure on the pedal seems to feel weak. However if I apply two pushes the brakes firm up. I test drove 4 other Tundras, 2 DCs, one access cab, and a V6. All except the V6 felt the same. I posted over at Tundra solutions about the problem and was told that due the rear drum step up, sometimes the rear brakes don't seat properly or need to be adjusted. Others reported bleeding the brakes as well. But getting the dealer to do it will take patience. The test drove mine and thought it was fine. "It's alot of truck to stop", were the svc mgr and salesguy words. Well, I'm sorry, I had 2002 Explorer that stopped on a dime. I don't buy it. Don't know if this helps at all.
  • Is there a difference in the street ride of a Tundra w/ the TRD off road option and the ride of one without? I would assume an "off-road tuned suspension" would translate into a rougher street ride. My not so knowledgeable dealer said I would not notice a difference between a double cab with TRD and without. I test drove a DC last weekend with TRD and wondered if the ride would be smoother without. Thanks in advance!
  • 3toyboy3toyboy Posts: 30
    Anyone know in general if Toyotas (or specifically the Tundra) are 50 state compliant?

    Part 2: any challenges buying in Nevada/Arizona, and registering in California?

    Post #9325 in the 4Runner board got me thinking, and NV/AZ have better incentives at the moment.
  • What do you mean by "rear drum step up"?


  • hallrdhallrd Posts: 1
    experienced this recently with my 2003 v-8 2wd w/18,000 miles. made a 13 hr road trip to Fla., parked truck for 3 days. when started next, excessive valve train noise for about a second on starting and belched a large cloud of blue smoke. also had to add a quart of oil between changes. after owning 2 toyota trucks w/bulletproof 4 cyl engines, very disappointed with tundra v-8.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    On my 1993 Toyota 2wd pickup the belts last approximately 100,000 miles. At that point, even though far from worn out, I replace them on general principles and keep the old ones as spares. You may want to check the performance of your belt-driven devices (bearings and pulleys for A/C, P/S, water pump) if your belts won't last more than 40k miles. Had a friend's 1968 Cadiallac pulley that warped at the spring 1984 Carlisle auto show, and we were stranded overnight.

    I changed my original Toyota belts at 101,000 and am now at 189,000 - so I'll change them again this summer. They are not serpentine - they are small, cheap, and there's three of them. Total cost of replacement doing it myself is under $20. with parts from Autozone. I'm almost sure the Toyota belts would be better quality, but these are cheap and last 100k. Besides once you change them, you have spares you can carry with you under the seat in case one breaks. Just don't forget to also carry your wrenches! :-)

     - P.
  • Do you guys with cold engine noises use Mobil 1? I just bought a 2003 4WD 4.7 liter and have used Mobil 1 in the engine, differentials and transfer case since the 1,000 miles break-in period and experience no problems. The gear oil works without an additive in my LSD.
  • My wife's Matrix had a serpentine belt problem related to the tensioner and it sounded a lot like the noise you are describing. Toyota fixed in under warranty.

    When the time comes for my Tundra and RAV4, I will do the serpentine belt change myself. The dealers prices are exorbitant. I saw the timing belt replacement price at the dealer for the V8 Tundra at $525. I asked them if people really pay that. The service writer said yes, and even pay 79.95 for a 'differential service' which is just a drain and refill.
  • kimexpokimexpo Posts: 17
    For those who own a Tundra, be prepared to pay:
    200$ for a diagnostic test and 135$ for each Oxygen sensor replacement. Your car has 4 Oxygen sensors. The two mounted on the exhaust pipes closer to the V8 Engine will fail sometime between 36,000 to 40,000 miles. I own a 95 V8 Lexus and 91 V6 Camry, none of them had suffered the above failure.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    That's the one maintenance job I bring my 1993 22-RE truck to a shop for. Usually costs about $50 plus the filter. Where I go, the mechanic lets me bring the new filter and he installs it.

    - P.
  • Gidday....this problem is driving me nuts! Could really use some advice.
    I have a 98 Tacoma 2.4L, 2WD 72K miles. What is happening is at light accelerator settings or when releasing the accelerator the engine stalls for just an instant and then catches itself. It does not do this consistently and happens more often when driving in the rain. It's like a miss-fire or loss of fuel to a few cylinders.

    I have:
    Replaced the plugs
    Replaced the plugs leads and wires
    Replaced the fuel filter
    Had a fuel injector cleaning done

    My mechanic says I need the air induction system cleaned but I'm skeptical...I think it's a bad injector, distributor or leak in the air induction system.

    Anybody out there had this problem? If so, please respond as this problem is getting very expensive and aggrivating.

    Thanks, svgair01
  • svgair01,
    I have a 99 with the 2.4 and it sort of did the same thing.
    I ended up cleaning the throttle body. (The air induction system as the mechanic stated.)
    1.I did it my self by pulling off the air hose at the throttle body and used the correct spray cleaner. 2. Also with the engine running, I pulled off one of the small vacuum hoses and sprayed some cleaner into the throttle body while working the throttle. All the main air hoses have to be back on to run the engine during step 2. Also the check engine light may come on if you use too much spray. It should go out after while.
    Or you can have the dealer do it.
  • My 2002 Tundra V-8 recently began shaking when starting in the morning. My 1st visit to the dealer resulted in new spark plugs for a misfire diagnosis. The same thing happen 1 week later and now the dealer is saying I have a sticking fuel injector and that they "have seen a lot of this lately".He also stated that Toyota has a letter out to their dealer to be on the watch for this problem. Anyone have a similiar story?

    Thxs, jktundra
  • My new double cab Tundra has a font end shimmy seen and felt through the steering wheel at speeds of 60-75 mph. Has anyone had a similar problem. One dealer has balanced the tires two times after the original balance and it does not shimmy. After about 7-10 days it starts to shimmy again. I have only 2500 miles so far. The dealer says that the body mounts are softer on the double cab than on the extended cab Tundra and the factory seems to think that is the problem. I do not see how the mounts will affect the steering like that. Anyone have any suggestions??

  • touctouc Posts: 28
    I only have 600 miles on my DC. I hope this is not a problem to be reckoned with. So far, I have none of this going on. Let us know what comes out of this, please....
  • Touc and Lewmanjm: What kind of gas mileage are you getting?
  • touctouc Posts: 28
    So far, just barely over 15 mpg (but the wife has been driving it too - ha) I need to put my camper top on it, or get a t-cover (to stop some of the drag of this looonnng beast)
  • I have only had my truck two months, but I am already regretting the purchase. My brakes are getting replaced as I type, warped rotors. My main problem is what I refer to a jolt when I push the accelerator at around 35 mph. It feels like there is slack that is being taken up just before the shift. Sometimes it is so strong the whole truck jerks. The mechanic told me all tacomas with auto trans do it, something to do with the drivline, (BS ), I think it is the tranny. Tomorrow when I pick up my truck I am going to test drive one and see if it also has the "jolt". Even if it does, does that make it Ok.
  • I'm thinking about buying a new 2004 Tacoma ExtraCab 6 Cyliner 4WD Pickup. I've been driving a F250 Diesel since 1990 and am looking forward to something smaller. My questions are, what kind of mileage should I get and how are these vehicles for towing a small (17 ft) trailer.
  • I drive about 28 miles one way to work each day, mostly highway miles. I get about 16.5 mpg
  • I have a 2001 extracab tacoma v6 with manual 5 speed. I have gradually inceasing gas milage till now I get 17 in town and 21 highway. it pays to check it regularly if you want actual numbers.
  • I have a 2001 Tundra Limited with 66,000 miles and am experiencing a very weird brake problem. The problem is sporadic - at expressway speeds of 70-75mph it feels as if my ABS is engaging. The vehicle slows and when I pull to the shoulder and apply the brakes the whole front end shakes as well as the steering wheel. I can feel the front brakes engaging and disengaging just like an ABS stop on icy or wet pavement. After stopping for a moment or two I can reenter the freeway and continue on my way. Problem may re occur one more time as soon as I enter the freeway. Once I pull over again and reenter the freeway the problem disappears. Does this sporadically. Dealership has been unable to duplicate the problem and tells me everything is fine with my brakes. I have had the vehicle looked at by two different Toyota dealerships. My feeling is that there is a problem with an ABS sensor. I have contacted Toyota Customer Support and am waiting for a return call. Anybody have any suggestions.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Check the Ownership section on this site. I found several Technical Service BUlletins on the Tundra related to the front brakes.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Is anyone familiar with the spark plugs on the V8 Tundra Engine? I believe it is the 2UV-FE Engine. I have a 2003 and the manual says there are spark plugs but when I look at the engine, where the spark plugs should be there are flat rectangular black caps. The caps have a bolt holding them down adn there is a four pin connector attached. Following this wire to the harness, I find that the other 7 similar caps lead to the same harness and the harness goes in a large black cover on the front of the drivers side valve cover. So I assume these rectangular caps are the spark plug covers and the black cover on the front of the valve cover is the distributor, but this leaves me with one issue. Why four wires leading to the spark plug and why are they so small? Normally spark plug cables are much thicker due to the high voltage.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Found an answer somewhere else for a 2000 Tundra. I assume it is the same.

    They are located under each coil boot...Instead of one ignition coil like in older vehicles...each spark plug has its own coil boot.
  • spydspyd Posts: 3
    Hey all. I have an 2001 Tacoma DC, I'm quickly reaching 50K miles and need to change all 4 tires, 5 with the spare. But I'm also thinking about trying to improve the ride quality by changing the shocks and struts, the ride is just a little too bouncy for me as an everyday driver. My questions are:
     1. If changing the shocks and struts, along with new tires are enough to improve the ride, or is it there not going to be much difference?
     2. Is there a particular brand/make I should be looking for?
     3. Should I just get my tires changed and the 50K mile service, and save the money for the Scion tC for the "better" ride?

    Thanx in advance
  • dwbehrensdwbehrens Posts: 15
    To Questions 155 - 156...

    These are called power packs, covering iridium electrode plugs. The is no distributor, the computer does it all. The four wires charge a small ignition coil for each plug, and communicate from the computer to a transistor switch in the power pack which discharges the secondary (high voltage) side of the coil to the plug.

    To Question #140...

    Buy an OBD II diagnostic tester for about $150 on Ebay along with the Toyota Shop Manual($200). The two will pay for themselves if they save you two trips to the dealer's shop. The OBD II will work on any car made after '95, so you can use it for your other cars and your buddies cars too.
  • reedfwareedfwa Posts: 1
    I have a 93 pickup with the automatic transmission shift on the steering column. The transmission will not come out of park. The owners manual does not say where the lock release is located for a column shift. Does anyone know how to get this sucker into drive so I can get it to the repair shop? The dealer has no clue.
    All the fuses are okay.
This discussion has been closed.