Any idea of what would cause a frozen brake pedal that cannot be pushed downward? Read earlier post about cold weather but in my case it was way above freezing. Anything to do with the power brakes system/sensor? Had a similary problem on a 93 Caravan and that was the cause.
I have a 2003 Outback wagon 4 cylinder automatic with 19,000 miles. I hear a clunking noise coming from the front of the car when braking while the car is in reverse when I am backing out of a parking spot. Does anyone have any idea what the noise could be? Could it be normal noise coming from the front differential?
The rapping's getting louder, doesn't go away, and the Aluminum wear went from 20ppm to 31ppm in just 2900 miles. Blackstone's average for the engine is 4ppm.
BTW - My 04 Forester XT is at 2 ppm after 21K. Same oil (syn blend 10w30) used in both. Same intervals as well.
It looks like the iron is a trifle high as well, 11ppm vs 7ppm which would make sense for an aluminum piston rubbing a cylinder wall. Had a friend listen to it, he likes wrist pin better than piston slap. I would think the iron would be higher, but I don't know what material the wrist pin's made out of.
Going to call dealer to schedule appt with Subaru district rep. Should be interesting. :confuse:
BTW - does anyone know if the block used in the 05 OBW XT is a closed deck design, like the one used in the 04 Forester XT's? I assume the regular 2.5L is still the open deck?
03 OBW - Been using a syn-blend, 10W30, since about 10k. If what I have is the piston slap, save your money - doesn't quiet a thing. Although the way the aluminum wear is climbing, I have to wonder if mine is the piston slap. If I though I could quiet the darn thing down I'd drop a quart of STP into it.
Wonder if the closed deck design on the turbo's precludes that problem somehow - no trace of it on my 04 Forester XT.
I absolutely hate replacing the plugs in these things.... grr.
When I do mine and the motor IS in the car (I happened to have it out once, so that was an easy replacement!), I pull the air filter housing on the passenger side and the fluid reservoir on the driver side (I have '96, so guessing that '99 setup is similar?). I use a standard plug socket, with a 3" extension and as low of a profile socket wrench as possible. I plug the 3" extension into the socket, then insert it into the cavern in the head until it locks onto the plug. Then I attach the wrench and loosen it until it has backed out to the point that I either take the wrench off, or it will get stuck. So, I take the wrench off and turn the extension by hand until it separates or, if it is being uncooperative, I get a very small pipe wrench and turn the extension with the pipe wrench. Usually the front cylinders are much more cooperative than the rears because there is an extra 1/4" or so of clearance between the engine and the frame on those cylinders.
I am sure there has to be a better way, but it works so for a 30,000 mile maintenance it is bearable.
As a side note, I have not had much luck using joints because the angles are so tight that they bind rather than reroute the torque. :mad:
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I am having a hard time believing that you got a new outback last summer for 17K. Even with the 2K dealers were getting back, that still leaves a discrepency of about 3 thousand dollars. Furthermore, I really don't want to here about it being that everyone else on this forum, including those buying at fritz automall, are paying thousands more. That being said, I did pay 19.2K for my legacy 04 5spd wagon, but my dealer taxed the sale with a 5% loan as opposed to the amazing 1.9%. On top of that they screwed up the allignment twice, and cost me 500$ in tires in the first year. Groan. Defenitely go with the 03. Nicer body style, better suspension, better car.
The OBXT uses the same semi closed deck design as the FXT, LGT and STi. I haven't heard of piston slap being an issue with the 2.5 turbo engines. Perhaps there is a tighter manufacturing spec for the components -- both the block and pistons are different from the base 2.5 NA engine.
I don't think changing oil types will do much for piston slap. You basically need to swap out the offending piston and/or short block to fix the problem.
Hi, I have a 2005 outback wagon. When I have the current mpg (miles per gallon) display on & take my foot of the accelerator it jumps to 99.9 mpg. I know this is to good to be true. When i put my foot back on the gas it resumes to correct mph numbers.Is this normal? Thanks
When you take your foot off the gas, the computer shuts off the fuel completely until the RPM's drop close to idle speed.
You're using zero fuel but still moving, so you are temporarily getting infinite miles per gallon, which is way more than 99.9, but of course the display doesn't have an infinity symbol nor would most people know what it means.
After I lower my window on my 95 Legacy I cannot raise it back up again without shutting the car off and restarting it. Also, after I lower the window I continue to hear a clicking sound in the door like it still wants to keep lowering the window. Furthermore, when I try and lower the window without moving the window switch too far so as to activate the AUTO function it does it anyway.
I need to know if it's the window regulator or the switch assembly.
Just got of the phone with the service manager found out some really interesting things:
1) Until the engine fails, its not a problem, no matter how loud it gets.
2) Aluminum wear 7.5x normal - not a problem either.
3) Subaru doesn't really have "district reps" to look at problems, only field people that deal with specific issues.... Now that's news...... Subaru must really be "special"
4) Even if he wanted to, there's no pistons currently available in the country - national out of stock. Gee wonder why they ran out of pistons....?
5) They'd also have to boroscope the engine first. First reasonable thing he said. Gee whiz mister service manager sir, if there's no problems why are you telling me you had to invest so much in a boroscope?
6) Sign me up to buy another Subaru. Or perhaps not. :P
On my '98 Forester they were a bear. Even after removing the intake and the coolant reservoir. Access is tight so you have to keep switching rachet extensions.
My wife's Legacy (2002) was a lot easier. Still had to remove the intake and the coolant reservoir, but then access was much better so one ratchet extension was all I needed.
Thanks for the info! Looks like it wil be easier to get the Subaru dealer to do it, especially now that I have the Service Advisory bulletin # to reference with them. This forum is a terrific resource!
Hi, I have a 2005 Outback wagon VDC model. When I move my shifter from park into drive & drive for a couple of yards I hear a noise for a second, then it disappears for the rest of the drive. It sounds like a plastic splash shield rubbing kind of noise for a second. It sounds like from the middle or back of car. It only happens when going from park into drive & only when driving. The salesman told me it's the VDC engaging. Does this sound correct? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I have an 02 VDC. When I start up and go foward or backward out of my garage the ABS system tests itself within the first 20 feet and makes a noise. Ditto for my wife's 04 VDC Could this be what you are hearing? Martin
has anyone ever had to replace the shocks on their Sube?? I'm asking because my 98 is getting close to 120K and I will probably put a lot of work into it (timing belt, pump etc) and I realized I have never replaced shocks on any of my previous 2 Legacies either(not counting the 92 LS with the silly air suspension which needed replacing), though they all got sold when about 90-100K .
Some say ethanol blends do cause less MPG. I run with Minnesota gas which is required by law to be 10% ethanol year round and I don't notice much difference. I commonly get 27+ mpg during the summer with my 4 cyl. 2001 OB wagon. Temperature does make a big difference. We had a very warm first part of April giving me 27 to 28 mpg. This past two weeks have been cooler and milage has dropped to 25-26 mpg. Dead of winter I get 23ish. Same commute every week which is mostly highway(90%).
You are most welcome! Glad we could help... . Remember that service advisories are not the same as recalls, and they are not always obligated to do it for free. Approach it nicely, and you stand a good chance. Let us know how it goes.
My wife's '02 Outback seems to yo-yo between drive and overdrive. If you let of the gas and then give it gas it gives multiple little jumps. Is it a torque convertor? Also, has anyone had a air leak by the drivers side door mirror gasket?
I just replaced mine this past September... it had what, 165K on it? No, more than that... I'd have to check mySubaru (original shocks - and they were SHOT!). Anyhow, the work itself was very straightforward. I followed the instructions in my Haynes manual (covers 95-98) precisely, other than a slight modification on the rears. It took about 4 hours for me and a friend to complete, along with a few sockets, pair of needlenose pliers, a grinder, a set of spring compressors, a short length of rubber hose (3/8"?), some brake fluid, and a glass jar.
Don't be frightened by the inclusion of a grinder in my tool list! Now, the original struts on the car had enclosed brackets through which the brake lines ran on all 4 struts of the car. The new replacement struts, though, were U shaped open) on the rear of the car, meaning that separation of the brake line was not required to install the new rear struts. In order to save us some brake bleeding time, we ground open the old strut braces on the rears to separate the strut from the brake line without disconnecting the line from the wheel cylinder. It worked beautifully. Once all 4 struts were replaced, we only needed to bleed out the front brakes and the overall result (ride comfort) was like having a new car!
Total expense (including spring compressors): ~$530
-Wes-
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
The air leak seems to be a fairly common problem as these cars age... mine just recently started doing it ('96) and I found this spring that the rubber on the top of the gussets has begun to split, allowing air into the assembly. It isn't so bad as to annoy me yet (it is still a saint compared to the windnoise in my old '69 Econoline), but I am sure it will only continue to get worse. I have considered sealing it up with some silicone, but haven't actually done it yet. I do not think it is worth a part replacement.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I have this problem periodically on my '96. It has done this since I bought it in '00. It ONLY happens when I let the window go all the way down in auto mode. Usually it does like yours, where auto engages regardless of how far I depress the switch, but I can stop it from dropping by pressing up on the switch. The window still protrudes from the molding by a 1/2" or so, but I can live with that so long as the window will go up when I command it.
When I do have it "lock" down and do the periodic clicking you mention, I just wiggle the switch rapidly up and down until it releases - usually within about 5 seconds or so.
Juice, are you marking down all of these little electrical gremlins I have with my car as I mention them?!
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Well in Feb brought the 00 outback in for a LOF and alignment. They couldn't do an align. at that time bkz the bolts were frozen on there and would have to be cut off. So the next week that was done to a tune of 3 or 400. A month later the car started overheating on my husband. He turned the heat on full blast which he says vents some of the overheating. He was on his way to an airport for a business trip. Later in the day I went up and followed him home in case we needed to tow the car or it started to overheat again. It didn't but we dropped it off at one of our local subaru dealers. We've used two different ones but find one dealer will spend more time more often to do the job right.
They've had the car for 12 days.....it was both headgaskets.
I'd say I'm tired of all the little things that have needed to be serviced but this is the first MAJOR thing. 72,000 miles the car has always been maintained
Can't complain too much since the whole head gasket thing will be covered under the extended warranty. Good thing our two college aged kids are still at school or we would have been missing the car for that long.
Guess I'd make sure the conditioner was added on time so the extended warranty remains in effect. No warning signs ahead of time, altho my husband said when it started to overheat it smelled like caramel.
So, who's your dealer? I can't get any satisfaction either from my local dealer or SoA Customer Service! I just want to have the problem resolved. I have it documented and have done everything the SoA rep asked me to. I'm getting really fed up with their B.S.
My 04 Legacy has a sport 4 speed auto transmission that has an intermittent problem. On de-acceleration, coasting and re-acceleration (e.g. around a corner) the transmission shifts down from 3rd and then seems to slip into neutral before engaging in 2nd gear. Is there anybody else who has had this problem.
I have a 2005 Outback Ltd.I and have had a Subaru Trailer Hitch installed. Do I need some sort of converter to get the lights on my boat trailer to work properly? If so, should the dealer have done this as part of the installation?
Did they install a wiring harness? Is it a 4 plug style harness?
I have the OE hitch on my '98 Forester, and it's a 4 plug one. I think bigger trailers use a different style plug/outlet. You may need an adaptor of some sort.
Here is a photo of the harness that came with mine. The wiring drops out of the spare tire well, they supply a rubber grommet to seal it. I tie-wrapped that harness to the back of the hitch so the wires are not hanging like that. Hopefully the photo will help you locate your wiring/harness.
Yes, they did install the harness. And yes it is a standard 4-plug harness. But one of the trailer tail lights stays on even if the car lights are switched off. The boat dealer indicated that cars with amber turn signals and separate break lights need a converter to be installed
Hi, Have a question on my 2005 outback wagon. I use Climate Control only with manual settings (Not on Auto function) When I set temp. to 68 F on a sunny afternoon I get beautiful AC. The same manual setting at temp 68 F on a cool morning will blow out very hot heat. Even though AC button is set. Is this normal? Thanks all to have solved my questions in the past.........
Old Subarus are loud on startup anyway (alloy block plus DOHC plus flat design = thermal expansion issues) even if you don't have the piston slap problem. We've had two 97's and one did and one didn't.
When I switched to Castrol High Mileage oil it was dramatically quieter on startup.
My friend has a 96 legacy hatch. It either won''t start or if it does decides to kill at stop lights etc. It has recently received a new coil pack-some improvement. My suggestion to her is to change the plugs- I need to know the Gap for them-she has no manual. Also if anyone else experiences this I am thinking the next things to check would be: Timing, Ignition Module/pickup mod? and maybe the idle air control.
I am going to say MAS - mass airflow sensor. I know, I know, I keep pointing to it as the culprit.....
When you say "won't start," is this cold starts or when the engine is still warm?
Plug gap...... 0.038 to 0.040? That may be more restrictive than actual, but it is in the middle of the range. I do not have my book on me right now.
You might consider replacing the plug wires as well if they are still original, but I don't think that is the heart of the issue your friend is experiencing.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I have the OEM hitch kit on my '02 OBW, and like Juice said, the 4 pin output connector is already buffered by a converter. Any system with separate amber turn signals needs this buffer unit to convert it to the standard 1157 type (combination filament) bulbs found on trailers, and it comes with the Subaru kits.
Unfortunately, my first one didn't work properly either, and the running lights (both tail, and the side markers) stayed on when everything was off on the car. My dealer had to swap it out, as the original that I installed was defective.
But your situation is very strange - only one tail lamp is on? Could be that really both are 'on', but one bulb is dead? Has this trailer worked OK on another vehicle?
Hello, The CEL is on my '99 Outback, I know it is the knock sensor(P0325). I've located the knock sensor, but don't know how to get at the connector to test it. Can I just remove the alternator to get at the knock sensor? I really don't want to remove the intake manifold. Is the pig tail on the sensor long enough so that the sensor can be pulled up through the manifold and then connector removed?
MY daughter's outback began to clunk when we visited her in Portland OR. Subaru diagnosed it as brake caliper, would not give estimate. She was then given $400 plus bill for a single caliper replacement. Reasonable????
That's my guess, only because it's a common problem on Miatas and the symptoms are similar to yours. If they are original they are long overdue for a change.
Besides that, spark or fuel, so look at the fuel filter, too.
Hmm, I was thinking that was high, but then I realized I've only seen prices for rotor replacement, not calipers. I'd have no idea what those would cost.
Took our '03 Legacy wagon to the dealer yesterday, told them about the wind noise and mentioned the service advisory on it. I was told they are aware of this common problem, and their procedure for dealing with it is first to try to adjust the gusset. If noise returns, they replace it with a new part. Took them a little over an hour from the time I showed up unannounced at the dealer to adjust both gussets and wash the car for free. Then agreed to replace gussets for free under warranty if noise returned. Very happy with this solution, glad I didn't decide to live with the duck tape fix or try to repair it myself. Thanks to this forum for the helpful info and to the service dept at CVM Subaru in Mechanicsburg, PA for their cooperation!
Depending on the model of car it appears that the list price for a caliper is about $230. I could see a shop charging two hours of labor to replace a caliper, even though an hour may also be reasonable, I would think. So $400 does not sound totally unreasonable to me, but you could save money by buying on line and having someone else install the caliper. The on line price I found was about $165 for the $230 caliper.
Comments
Of course I cannot duplicate it.
Could it be normal noise coming from the front differential?
Thanks
I would at least have the system bled, just in case there was any debris in there that got stuck and caued the problem.
-juice
The rapping's getting louder, doesn't go away, and the Aluminum wear went from 20ppm to 31ppm in just 2900 miles. Blackstone's average for the engine is 4ppm.
BTW - My 04 Forester XT is at 2 ppm after 21K. Same oil (syn blend 10w30) used in both. Same intervals as well.
It looks like the iron is a trifle high as well, 11ppm vs 7ppm which would make sense for an aluminum piston rubbing a cylinder wall. Had a friend listen to it, he likes wrist pin better than piston slap. I would think the iron would be higher, but I don't know what material the wrist pin's made out of.
Going to call dealer to schedule appt with Subaru district rep. Should be interesting. :confuse:
BTW - does anyone know if the block used in the 05 OBW XT is a closed deck design, like the one used in the 04 Forester XT's? I assume the regular 2.5L is still the open deck?
Larry
Wonder if the closed deck design on the turbo's precludes that problem somehow - no trace of it on my 04 Forester XT.
Larry
When I do mine and the motor IS in the car (I happened to have it out once, so that was an easy replacement!), I pull the air filter housing on the passenger side and the fluid reservoir on the driver side (I have '96, so guessing that '99 setup is similar?). I use a standard plug socket, with a 3" extension and as low of a profile socket wrench as possible. I plug the 3" extension into the socket, then insert it into the cavern in the head until it locks onto the plug. Then I attach the wrench and loosen it until it has backed out to the point that I either take the wrench off, or it will get stuck. So, I take the wrench off and turn the extension by hand until it separates or, if it is being uncooperative, I get a very small pipe wrench and turn the extension with the pipe wrench. Usually the front cylinders are much more cooperative than the rears because there is an extra 1/4" or so of clearance between the engine and the frame on those cylinders.
I am sure there has to be a better way, but it works so for a 30,000 mile maintenance it is bearable.
As a side note, I have not had much luck using joints because the angles are so tight that they bind rather than reroute the torque. :mad:
That being said, I did pay 19.2K for my legacy 04 5spd wagon, but my dealer taxed the sale with a 5% loan as opposed to the amazing 1.9%. On top of that they screwed up the allignment twice, and cost me 500$ in tires in the first year. Groan.
Defenitely go with the 03. Nicer body style, better suspension, better car.
The OBXT uses the same semi closed deck design as the FXT, LGT and STi. I haven't heard of piston slap being an issue with the 2.5 turbo engines. Perhaps there is a tighter manufacturing spec for the components -- both the block and pistons are different from the base 2.5 NA engine.
I don't think changing oil types will do much for piston slap. You basically need to swap out the offending piston and/or short block to fix the problem.
Ken
I have a 2005 outback wagon. When I have the current mpg (miles per gallon) display on & take my foot of the accelerator it jumps to 99.9 mpg. I know this is to good to be true. When i put my foot back on the gas it resumes to correct mph numbers.Is this normal? Thanks
You're using zero fuel but still moving, so you are temporarily getting infinite miles per gallon, which is way more than 99.9, but of course the display doesn't have an infinity symbol nor would most people know what it means.
Bottom line, yes, it's completely normal.
-mike
I need to know if it's the window regulator or the switch assembly.
Thanks!
-Ryan
-mike
1) Until the engine fails, its not a problem, no matter how loud it gets.
2) Aluminum wear 7.5x normal - not a problem either.
3) Subaru doesn't really have "district reps" to look at problems, only field people that deal with specific issues.... Now that's news...... Subaru must really be "special"
4) Even if he wanted to, there's no pistons currently available in the country - national out of stock. Gee wonder why they ran out of pistons....?
5) They'd also have to boroscope the engine first. First reasonable thing he said. Gee whiz mister service manager sir, if there's no problems why are you telling me you had to invest so much in a boroscope?
6) Sign me up to buy another Subaru. Or perhaps not. :P
A rant, but a factual rant. Caveat Emptor.
Larry
My wife's Legacy (2002) was a lot easier. Still had to remove the intake and the coolant reservoir, but then access was much better so one ratchet extension was all I needed.
-juice
Thanks for the info! Looks like it wil be easier to get the Subaru dealer to do it, especially now that I have the Service Advisory bulletin # to reference with them.
This forum is a terrific resource!
Don
I have a 2005 Outback wagon VDC model. When I move my shifter from park into drive & drive for a couple of yards I hear a noise for a second, then it disappears for the rest of the drive. It sounds like a plastic splash shield rubbing kind of noise for a second. It sounds like from the middle or back of car. It only happens when going from park into drive & only when driving. The salesman told me it's the VDC engaging. Does this sound correct? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Can an old gas filter cause lower MPG? Does Gas-ahol make matters worst?
Thanks
Also check the tire pressure.
--Jay
You are most welcome! Glad we could help... . Remember that service advisories are not the same as recalls, and they are not always obligated to do it for free. Approach it nicely, and you stand a good chance. Let us know how it goes.
Steve
Usually it is a small percentage so the difference isn't that noticeable.
-juice
Don't be frightened by the inclusion of a grinder in my tool list! Now, the original struts on the car had enclosed brackets through which the brake lines ran on all 4 struts of the car. The new replacement struts, though, were U shaped open) on the rear of the car, meaning that separation of the brake line was not required to install the new rear struts. In order to save us some brake bleeding time, we ground open the old strut braces on the rears to separate the strut from the brake line without disconnecting the line from the wheel cylinder. It worked beautifully. Once all 4 struts were replaced, we only needed to bleed out the front brakes and the overall result (ride comfort) was like having a new car!
Total expense (including spring compressors): ~$530
-Wes-
When I do have it "lock" down and do the periodic clicking you mention, I just wiggle the switch rapidly up and down until it releases - usually within about 5 seconds or so.
Juice, are you marking down all of these little electrical gremlins I have with my car as I mention them?!
They've had the car for 12 days.....it was both headgaskets.
I'd say I'm tired of all the little things that have needed to be serviced but this is the first
MAJOR thing. 72,000 miles the car has always been maintained
Can't complain too much since the whole head gasket thing will be covered under the extended warranty. Good thing our two college aged kids are still at school or we would have been missing the car for that long.
Guess I'd make sure the conditioner was added on time so the extended warranty remains in effect. No warning signs ahead of time, altho my husband said when it started to overheat it smelled like caramel.
Thanks JIM
I have the OE hitch on my '98 Forester, and it's a 4 plug one. I think bigger trailers use a different style plug/outlet. You may need an adaptor of some sort.
-juice
-juice
Have a question on my 2005 outback wagon. I use Climate Control only with manual settings (Not on Auto function) When I set temp. to 68 F on a sunny afternoon I get beautiful AC. The same manual setting at temp 68 F on a cool morning will blow out very hot heat. Even though AC button is set. Is this normal?
Thanks all to have solved my questions in the past.........
When I switched to Castrol High Mileage oil it was dramatically quieter on startup.
The only trailers I've used had the 4-plug harness, so I've never encountered that problem.
If the rest of the lights work OK, can you just unplug the harness when you're not moving? Just remember to plug it back in! :surprise:
-juice
http://www.grangerscampingworld.com.au/default.htm
If you look under Accessories, then Trailer, they have 7 pin flat to 7 pin round adaptors, so I guess there are many kinds of harnesses.
-juice
Also if anyone else experiences this I am thinking the next things to check would be:
Timing, Ignition Module/pickup mod? and maybe the idle air control.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
When you say "won't start," is this cold starts or when the engine is still warm?
Plug gap...... 0.038 to 0.040? That may be more restrictive than actual, but it is in the middle of the range. I do not have my book on me right now.
You might consider replacing the plug wires as well if they are still original, but I don't think that is the heart of the issue your friend is experiencing.
Unfortunately, my first one didn't work properly either, and the running lights (both tail, and the side markers) stayed on when everything was off on the car. My dealer had to swap it out, as the original that I installed was defective.
But your situation is very strange - only one tail lamp is on? Could be that really both are 'on', but one bulb is dead? Has this trailer worked OK on another vehicle?
Steve
The CEL is on my '99 Outback, I know it is the knock sensor(P0325). I've located the knock sensor, but don't know how to get at the connector to test it. Can I just remove the alternator to get at the knock sensor? I really don't want to remove the intake manifold. Is the pig tail on the sensor long enough so that the sensor can be pulled up through the manifold and then connector removed?
Thanks
Nick L
Subaru diagnosed it as brake caliper, would not give estimate.
She was then given $400 plus bill for a single caliper replacement.
Reasonable????
Besides that, spark or fuel, so look at the fuel filter, too.
-juice
-juice
Steve
-juice