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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    no particular item looks too bad --tho i don't know what fuel induction cleaning is--but my advice is just change the oil every 5,000 miles and service anything that goes wrong
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    You got raped on the tires. Hard to believe they were dry rotted only being 5 years old. I still have the origionals (in storage for an emergency) from my 2001 and they are fine. NEVER let them "clean" your fuel system, waste of money. Alignment was probably unecessary unless the tires were worn funny. Hard to believe your belts were worn out after only five years 30k miles. Mine are from 2001 and have 40k on them and are like new. Also front brake pads on mine are like new hard to believe yours were toast unless you are driving like nuts. Even if you dont have any work done the (s)tealer gets like $300 just to inspect the car, change the oil and air filter at 30k miles. Plus they nickle and dime you to death for s$%^ like tires, belts, pads etc which sounds like what happened to you. What was the total bill? Other than that the prices seem fair. I just question whether a lot of that was necessary. Maybe some of it was. (but I doubt it) If at all possible try to find an independent garage to do the the work because youll pay through the nose at the dealer. You have a great car in the ECHO! Good luck with it!
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Echo 2000 - 130,000 miles oil changed every 5000 I live in mid west Florida.
    For past four months now I have tried to resolve this.
    Check engine light started coming on after restarting the car after being hwy driven. Code was lean Bank 1 or 2.
    I replaced both Oxegen sensors and cleaned the MAF, I also cleaned the thorotle body with carb cleaner. All three items helped the car run better.
    Light came on again, with the same code.
    Then one day after being off several hours and after highway driven I started it, turned the air on, drove off, and there was a very bad hesitation. I turned the air off but the car still hesitated but after several miles it worked its way out.
    So I changed the plugs with Iridiums & all four coils. Car ran even better, just like new.
    Then I drove the hwy this past Friday, yesterday morning "Saturday" I got in, started it and started to drive off and it had a very, very bad hesitation, no power, I sat there for a minute and let it run at idle, then I drove off with the hesitation, but not nearly as bad. I stopped at one store with the car fully warmed up. After shopping for 30 minutes I started it again the hesitation was there but not as bad, the further I drove the hesitation went away.
    Sunday, this morning, I went out, started it and drove off like I usually do, and it ran with now hesitation.
    So the heisitation is happening after highway driving.
    Can anyone give me some advice as to what my be wrong?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    What exactly is the error code?
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    I want to say 171
  • ridley2ridley2 Posts: 3
    Hi i have a 2000 echo sedan. I dont have manual but need to adjust handbrake.I cant find where the adjustment is for the handbrake.Can anyone help thank you.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    The Officical ECHO service manual says for error code PO171 the follwoing things should be checked:

    air induction system (blockage in there?)
    injector blockage
    mass flow air meter
    engine coolant temp sensor
    fuel pressure (fuel filter plugged? and there IS a FF on the fuel pump in the gas tank!)
    gas leakage from exhaust system (hole in pipes/muffler?)
    open or short in oxy sensor bank1 sensor1 circuit (not just the sensors the wiring too!)
    heated oxy sensor b1 s1)

    Hope this helps!
  • I have a 2001 Echo with 80,000mi on it. I love it because I have never had a mechanical issue with it. It is a manual transmission and in the last week has started to stutter in the lower end of gears. It's not because of the driver either. I tried to blame it on my boyfriend's driving ability, but then it happened to me too. In ranges of the gear that is absolutely normal, just on the lower end, it has interruptions while the gas is pressed. It's more noticeable in 1st or 2nd, but happens in 3rd too. This is totally different than stalling the engine with poor clutch timing...I've been driving this car everyday for seven years. :surprise: I think I'll start with some fuel injector cleaner, but does anyone have any ideas???
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Unless something is actually broken, the handbrake self-adjusts every time you hit the foot brake while reversing. There is no manual adjustment.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I have noticed when it rains the clutch is grabby. It clears up when it drys out for a few days.
  • ridley2ridley2 Posts: 3
    Hi (nippononly)Thanks for your information on my handbrake question i now know what to do. I think cable is stretched and needs replacing as the hand brake has to be pulled up fully for it to work.Thank you once again for taking the time to answer my question....
  • bwright4bwright4 Posts: 1
    I have to replace the heater core in a 2000 Echo. Anyone done this before? Tips?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Discharge the AC. Remove the dash and reinforcement. (looks like a [non-permissible content removed]) Remove the AC unit from under the dash. Remove the heater ditto. Getting the heater core out of the heater unit looks relatively simple. This whole thing looks like an SOB. I would try a few cans of stop leak and make sure the hoses in the engine compartment leading to the heater core arent somehow leaking into the passanger compartment. Whats the dealer want to do this? Must be $1000. If its less Id let them do it! Good luck and tell us what happens!
  • toyconverttoyconvert Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Echo and it is a great car. The air started to seem not so cold last year, but I ignored it. This year it was worse, so I had the shop where I work check my levels. It was fine.

    Here are the strange parts.... Some days it seems just fine. If I am on the highway it is fine. It is just in stop and go city driving.

    I was speeding so my car would cool off officer. :P

    Any ideas?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Try running the air with the inside/outside vent on recirculate.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    my little car goes in for a major service: replacement of every fluid it has, plus plugs and drive belts, underhood and cabin air filters. That plus a tire rotation, a full front end inspection, valve clearance check, a few odds and ends like lubing the antenna mast, and a wash is going to run me around $400. :-/

    I would have economized on it but it has been 20K miles since its last service and it has NEVER had a major service like this. Plus, I have decided I might keep it a while longer, so I'd like a full inspection. I now have six digits on the odo as of not too long ago...the big 100K, now THAT'S a milestone.....

    ...plus hey! I just got $600 free from Bush, so why not spend it on keeping the old fuel miser going?! :-)

    I just hope they don't find a bunch of stuff that needs fixing! :surprise:

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    $400 is pretty reasonable for all that. Thats what the "service" is primarily for...to sock you with things like "We need to replace the seals in the transmission because they are leaking...thatll be $2500." If they pull something like that tell them you want another opinion. I hope you have someone reputable to do the work...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Do you even HAVE a cabin air filter? I know there's a place for one, but I didn't think the Echo came with one. Maybe they'll sell you one?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    You know, that's a very good question. I would have expected the answer would be a resounding no, but it turns out some folks here at Edmunds have changed their cabin air filters in their Echos, and the parts department flyer from my local dealer shows all the models on which cabin air filters are available for purchase, and all the years of the Echo are listed.

    I am going to tell them to change it if it is there, and if it is not then just to forget it. I'm too lazy and too busy to go in ahead of time and find out if it is there.

    kneisl1: yes certainly, the fear is all the things they might find, but I worked on my own cars for many years and I would know if anything were seriously wrong. I have no lights on the dash, no funny sounds, smells, behaviors, or puddles. If they come up with a $2500 repair I will certainly get a second opinion, but I have been going to this place for a long time, and they have never steered me wrong. The only question in my mind is whether it is finally time for new brake pads (has never had replacements).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Service manual shows a cabin AF. Remove the glove box door and the holder is right behind it. Service intervals in the owners manual do not mention changing this filter...but there it is!
    If you got 100k miles so far they pads are probably still good. But...maybe not.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Ah yes it's in the manual (it was in the manual in my Scion xA, too) but in fact it wasn't THERE. You have to buy it I think.

    Has anyone found one in there, from the factory?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    It's kind of funny to design the system for filtered air, and then make the filter optional and not include it in the maintenance guide, isn't it?

    I'm betting mine is not there and I couldn't care less - it's just one more thing to have to maintain. On second thoughts, I don't think I am even going to mention it at the shop this afternoon, I am just going to find time some Saturday morning and go looking for it myself. If it's there and it's clogged, it goes out with the trash. It will not be replaced.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Well a filter would keep crap out of the ventilation system potentially. Since all you have to do is squeeze the sides of the GB together and remove it to check I think I will look at mine some day...
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    If you see my post #463 you will see what I did prior. Everything I did was worth it. The Echo runs great with 133000 miles.
    The last item I did was add techroline gas additive. The first bottle was mostly city driveing and I did not notice much difference, then I went on the highway at the end of the tank and noticed a difference. So I filled up again, added another bottle, and drove at 65 to 75 mile per hour 160 miles. It runs great. The check engine light did come on, and is still on. But I figure after it goes out I will try the highway again, and if it comes on again then I will worry about it.
    And yes I bought an airconditioning filter for 12 bucks and put it in, in about 1 minute.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    and my wallet is $403 lighter, but they changed that darn cabin air filter too - I had no idea that was included in the estimate, but I can now say conclusively that I have one! :-P

    Everything was running like clockwork, nothing needed repair, they even said my drive belts were still fine, and the brakes have hardly worn since the last time I had them checked at 80K. As things are going now, it is unlikely I will EVER pay to replace the brake pads on this thing! Amazing - I attribute it to the Echo's wonderful lack of weight. :-)

    So anyway, it's off to the second 100K miles. As restless as I am with cars, it is unlikely that I will see the odo turn over 200K, unfortunately...but I suspect this car will still be running well in SOMEONE'S hands at that mileage.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Yes that is the secret to good mpg and low maintenance costs in general...low weight! I too like to swap cars and bikes around but really, what other car could I even consider given the price of gas? Diesels are OUT! Not cost effective anymore. Gee I would dearly love a one liter ECHO!
    Anyway, here is to your ECHOs second hundred thousand miles!
  • bijoybijoy Posts: 1
    I can hear a grinding noise as soon as the engine is started. The noise persists even while the engine is idling and the same noise continues while it is running. Since the noise doesn't show any variation while the car is accelerated I do not think it could be the transmission.
    Any suggestion?
    Thanks.
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    While driving I had this loud hum, I thought was the tires. My mechanic friend a couple weeks back said it was the wheel bearings. Well today we replaced them. About fifty bucks a piece. No more hum.
    Be cautious though, I have a 2000 Echo, and the first set of bearings were not the right size, I have to take them back. Seams halfway or so in 2000 they made a change, go by the production date when buying replacement items.
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Use Techroline or Lucas then get on the highway and drive at 60 to 70 for 100 miles or more. Thats what finally cured my hesitation, read post 463 I think was mine.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    has the same problem lots of older Japanese cars do: the headlight lenses are beginning to cloud over. I tried Windex and a scrub, didn't do a lick of good, although it is possible to kind of scrape the crud off a bit just by using a thumbnail.

    Anyone out there in Echo Land have a home remedy for this that works real well? I would happily just replace the lenses with new ones if they didn't cost $100 apiece or more (as they are rumored to: I haven't actually priced them).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I would try Scotchbright, a pad made by du Pont I think. Should be able to find it in a hardware store.
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Go to Wal-mart, they have a product for fixing it. It was around 19 dollars and did two lenses, comes in a foil package. First read the instructions. Then you wet sand the lenses with two different grits to get them clear, Then use what I think was a buffing compound, then you apply a clear made for plastics. Mine are so clear, the light so bright, it was worth it. It took maybe a half hour.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Thanks Dennis! I will give it a try! :-)

    I should add my well-meaning niece heard me talking about the lights and went at them with the scratchy side of a dishwashing sponge, which scored the HECK out of the lights without doing anything about the cloudiness! They look terrible, although it hasn't diminished their brightness. I am hoping to be able to buff out the small scratches on the lens surfaces. Wish me luck! ;-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • laura62laura62 Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem that my entire car felt like it was shaking, especially when I sped up but also when I was doing a consistant speed or stopped. I was told that it could be an engine mount or CV joint or something of that nature. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the coil pack leading to one of my spark plugs. It turned out I was running on 3 cylinders.
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    I bought a bottle of stuff from the Toyota Dealer for only 10 bucks and it worked great. Wax on wax off and now shiny lenses!
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Took the Echo to the dealer because the engine light kept coming on.
    They said the MAF had to be replaced, so they did, I need to take it on the highway now to see if the light comes back on.
    I also asked them to check the air. Because I could smell something when it came on like oil and it wouldnt cool down unless the car was moveing.BAD news, $1400.00 in parts alone. So my friend, a real mechanic is going to help me out, there goes my stimulas check from the government. I hope this info helps others out.
  • brode1brode1 Posts: 2
    Let me add something interesting to this that I just learned this evening.

    People get a code for a faulty MAF sensor and usually go buy remanufactured ones for $100 cause car manufactures specifically recommend not cleaning them. Dealer service departments routinely put in new ones at a cost of $350 or more. My ECHO had the exact same “balky engines for 2 minutes while the low coolant temperature light was on” problems.

    But I tried the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner. The little “wires” in the MAF sensor looked cruddy with deposits. Sprayed that stuff in there and it cleaned the little “wires” up nice and shiny again. Put it back in a voila... no more problem. It took 5 minutes. The problem was completely cured. Saved lots of money. And if that awful balky engine problem was completely cured,then there are probably subtle improvements to all other engine operations such as engine efficiency, smoothness, mileage and so forth.

    So people, try cleaning yours instead of replacing it. The stuff costs only $7. The instructions on the CRC can says you should do this every time you change the air filter. I believe I will. To all my cars. Halleluia!
  • csupancsupan Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    This just happened about a few months ago. The front of my 2003 Echo (103,000 miles) rattles like crazy while just under 1,000 rpm (idle). It used to sit at 1,000 rpm, but suddenly the rpm are a little low. Is there anyone who might be able to suggest a something I can try? I've put in the fuel injector cleaner, but it's obviously a timing issue or something, so how can I get the rpm back up?

    Thank you!!

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  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    I have had a vibration that would start when it was only cold. Well after several years it started doing it all the time. It turned out to be the plastic piece under the windshield wippers that rests on the glass. I took annd made a bead of silicon on the glass, pressed it down, aromoralled the plastic strip so it wouldnt stick, then put it in place securley, no more rattle.
  • I need a manual so I can change the altenater
    can anyone help?
    thank you
  • csupancsupan Posts: 2
    Thank you for writing back. I'll check out the plastic piece under the windshield wipers for sure, but, just out of curiosity, was this a really large rattle? I mean, mine is like the entire dash is rattling, but when I barely touch the gas (pushing it to exactly 1,000 rpm), it totally stops. It also seems to rattle a bit more when I turn the air conditioner on.

    I'll let you know if it's just the windshield thing.

    Thanks,
    Colleen.

    If anyone else has any suggestions as far as what would cause low-rpm rattling in the dash, please let me know!
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    go to auto zone , they can cancel your computer faults if they have been repaired
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    try car polish followed tooth paste
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    you can remove the dash with a credit card a n d a socket (probalbly 10 mil) take out yur radio speakers to see the bolts and use card to remove speedometer assembly
  • aussieechoaussieecho Posts: 22
    clean your maf (mass air filter sensor) with alcohol
  • doug997doug997 Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on last week. I took the car to the dealer and $94 dollars later, they told me that it was a Code P0441. The Vapor Canister and vacuum valve switch were bad. The cost of the repair estimate was $771.00. This is out of control. Can these parts be replaced by the everyday person or does the dealer have to perform this repair? Any help would be greatly appreciated. :sick:
  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    my '00 ac works fine but (coincidently/) after i replaced water pump, get loud rattle when fan is on--higher the setting, louder the roar/rattle..appears to come from only far right vent..(almost sounds like there's a leaf stuck in there)...any (relatively) easy way to get to fan for an inept mechanic?
  • I have a 2001 Toyota Echo...I hade a car accident about 8 months ago and untill recently a strange noise started appearing coming from the rear drivers tire. Everytime i make a right turn a loud grinding sound happens, but when i make a left turn it dosent do that...its gotten to the point that now when im driving straight it does it to. but still when i make a left turn it does not...and to add to the weridness some times it dosent do it at all when i turn, but then comes back again. The noise seems to get lounder and the faster i go...once again it seems like something is grinding...my guess is the wheel bearings are damaged????? please help!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    What you have sounds to me like a faulty constant velocity joint. Thats the shaft that connects the transmission to the wheels. If you get the car up on ramps look at the underside near the engine. See the wheels? See the shaft in the middle of the wheel going to the transmision? Look at the rubber/plastic boots (accordion thing) and see if they are torn. If they are...new axle/joint. You might have to have a shop do an evaluation. How many miles on this car?
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