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For past four months now I have tried to resolve this.
Check engine light started coming on after restarting the car after being hwy driven. Code was lean Bank 1 or 2.
I replaced both Oxegen sensors and cleaned the MAF, I also cleaned the thorotle body with carb cleaner. All three items helped the car run better.
Light came on again, with the same code.
Then one day after being off several hours and after highway driven I started it, turned the air on, drove off, and there was a very bad hesitation. I turned the air off but the car still hesitated but after several miles it worked its way out.
So I changed the plugs with Iridiums & all four coils. Car ran even better, just like new.
Then I drove the hwy this past Friday, yesterday morning "Saturday" I got in, started it and started to drive off and it had a very, very bad hesitation, no power, I sat there for a minute and let it run at idle, then I drove off with the hesitation, but not nearly as bad. I stopped at one store with the car fully warmed up. After shopping for 30 minutes I started it again the hesitation was there but not as bad, the further I drove the hesitation went away.
Sunday, this morning, I went out, started it and drove off like I usually do, and it ran with now hesitation.
So the heisitation is happening after highway driving.
Can anyone give me some advice as to what my be wrong?
air induction system (blockage in there?)
injector blockage
mass flow air meter
engine coolant temp sensor
fuel pressure (fuel filter plugged? and there IS a FF on the fuel pump in the gas tank!)
gas leakage from exhaust system (hole in pipes/muffler?)
open or short in oxy sensor bank1 sensor1 circuit (not just the sensors the wiring too!)
heated oxy sensor b1 s1)
Hope this helps!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Here are the strange parts.... Some days it seems just fine. If I am on the highway it is fine. It is just in stop and go city driving.
I was speeding so my car would cool off officer. :P
Any ideas?
I would have economized on it but it has been 20K miles since its last service and it has NEVER had a major service like this. Plus, I have decided I might keep it a while longer, so I'd like a full inspection. I now have six digits on the odo as of not too long ago...the big 100K, now THAT'S a milestone.....
...plus hey! I just got $600 free from Bush, so why not spend it on keeping the old fuel miser going?! :-)
I just hope they don't find a bunch of stuff that needs fixing! :surprise:
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am going to tell them to change it if it is there, and if it is not then just to forget it. I'm too lazy and too busy to go in ahead of time and find out if it is there.
kneisl1: yes certainly, the fear is all the things they might find, but I worked on my own cars for many years and I would know if anything were seriously wrong. I have no lights on the dash, no funny sounds, smells, behaviors, or puddles. If they come up with a $2500 repair I will certainly get a second opinion, but I have been going to this place for a long time, and they have never steered me wrong. The only question in my mind is whether it is finally time for new brake pads (has never had replacements).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If you got 100k miles so far they pads are probably still good. But...maybe not.
Has anyone found one in there, from the factory?
I'm betting mine is not there and I couldn't care less - it's just one more thing to have to maintain. On second thoughts, I don't think I am even going to mention it at the shop this afternoon, I am just going to find time some Saturday morning and go looking for it myself. If it's there and it's clogged, it goes out with the trash. It will not be replaced.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The last item I did was add techroline gas additive. The first bottle was mostly city driveing and I did not notice much difference, then I went on the highway at the end of the tank and noticed a difference. So I filled up again, added another bottle, and drove at 65 to 75 mile per hour 160 miles. It runs great. The check engine light did come on, and is still on. But I figure after it goes out I will try the highway again, and if it comes on again then I will worry about it.
And yes I bought an airconditioning filter for 12 bucks and put it in, in about 1 minute.
Everything was running like clockwork, nothing needed repair, they even said my drive belts were still fine, and the brakes have hardly worn since the last time I had them checked at 80K. As things are going now, it is unlikely I will EVER pay to replace the brake pads on this thing! Amazing - I attribute it to the Echo's wonderful lack of weight. :-)
So anyway, it's off to the second 100K miles. As restless as I am with cars, it is unlikely that I will see the odo turn over 200K, unfortunately...but I suspect this car will still be running well in SOMEONE'S hands at that mileage.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Anyway, here is to your ECHOs second hundred thousand miles!
Any suggestion?
Thanks.
Be cautious though, I have a 2000 Echo, and the first set of bearings were not the right size, I have to take them back. Seams halfway or so in 2000 they made a change, go by the production date when buying replacement items.
Anyone out there in Echo Land have a home remedy for this that works real well? I would happily just replace the lenses with new ones if they didn't cost $100 apiece or more (as they are rumored to: I haven't actually priced them).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I should add my well-meaning niece heard me talking about the lights and went at them with the scratchy side of a dishwashing sponge, which scored the HECK out of the lights without doing anything about the cloudiness! They look terrible, although it hasn't diminished their brightness. I am hoping to be able to buff out the small scratches on the lens surfaces. Wish me luck! ;-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
They said the MAF had to be replaced, so they did, I need to take it on the highway now to see if the light comes back on.
I also asked them to check the air. Because I could smell something when it came on like oil and it wouldnt cool down unless the car was moveing.BAD news, $1400.00 in parts alone. So my friend, a real mechanic is going to help me out, there goes my stimulas check from the government. I hope this info helps others out.
People get a code for a faulty MAF sensor and usually go buy remanufactured ones for $100 cause car manufactures specifically recommend not cleaning them. Dealer service departments routinely put in new ones at a cost of $350 or more. My ECHO had the exact same “balky engines for 2 minutes while the low coolant temperature light was on” problems.
But I tried the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner. The little “wires” in the MAF sensor looked cruddy with deposits. Sprayed that stuff in there and it cleaned the little “wires” up nice and shiny again. Put it back in a voila... no more problem. It took 5 minutes. The problem was completely cured. Saved lots of money. And if that awful balky engine problem was completely cured,then there are probably subtle improvements to all other engine operations such as engine efficiency, smoothness, mileage and so forth.
So people, try cleaning yours instead of replacing it. The stuff costs only $7. The instructions on the CRC can says you should do this every time you change the air filter. I believe I will. To all my cars. Halleluia!
This just happened about a few months ago. The front of my 2003 Echo (103,000 miles) rattles like crazy while just under 1,000 rpm (idle). It used to sit at 1,000 rpm, but suddenly the rpm are a little low. Is there anyone who might be able to suggest a something I can try? I've put in the fuel injector cleaner, but it's obviously a timing issue or something, so how can I get the rpm back up?
Thank you!!
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can anyone help?
thank you
I'll let you know if it's just the windshield thing.
Thanks,
Colleen.
If anyone else has any suggestions as far as what would cause low-rpm rattling in the dash, please let me know!