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Comments
As for the ticking noise, that's not really specific enough to pin anything down. You need to have a mechanic ride with you, or drive the car. Ticking and rumbling are such different phenomena that it's hard to make sense of it.
That happened to my sons ECHO and it was bad alternator bearings.
Good luck and tell us what happens!
my friend as an 2004 1.4 echo.
starting up on idle is sounds likes it's missing, put a few rev on runs smooth. On idle, is sounds like a valves though it's an automatic adjuster loosing pressure, at the exhaust it's chuffing like the mixture is out, not a constant hum.
He also complains that sometime when he puts the A/c on it stalls the engine. I've never been there when it's done this.
1. Are they auto tappet adjusters?
2. how do you adjust the air mixture?
3. could it be an injector?
any other ideas. please.
thanks.
Possible idle roughness could be a defective Idle Air Control valve (IAC), or just a vacuum leak somewhere.
If gas mileage has dropped a lot, there could also be an EGR system problem to cause this rough idle.
Let us know what you find out and Good Luck!
Start the engine. It is running unevenly right? One at a time, unplug the injectors. If after unplugging one of them, the engine runs WORSE, you just unplugged a GOOD injector. Keep going until you unplug an injector and it doesnt run any different. It still runs unevenly just as it has been. You should have three injectors which make the engine run WORSE when you unplug them and one when it doesnt run any different.
THATS the bad one.
If one is bad.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Next to oil change a very DIY thing.
Those front brake pads made it to 177K miles before needing replacement - they had never been done prior to that. One of the benefits of a stick shift (and a driving pattern that includes a lot of highway miles). :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Couldnt have done it better myself! 177k WOW!
Turning rotors unnecessary however. ESPECIALLY they way you drive.
Keep an eye on that guy who now drives YOUR ECHO!
The reality is he will probably need to drive that thing at least another two years, so he will probably drive it past the 200K mark. If so, I will stick a note in here. ;-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
brand new front brake , manual transmission, 3 doors, 136000 kl ::
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I'd be interested to hear from people with higher mileage, about what they've had to replace, and when. Water pump? Alternator or starter? CV joints? Stuff like that.
Anybody had to adjust valve clearance? At about 80k, a couple of my exhaust valves were within about 2 thousandths of the minimum so I'm wondering if I'll need to mess with that soon.
Love this car, and would like to keep it as long as possible!
All in all it's been a great car for me and I do love it. I am starting to become tempted to get something new though, but not having car payments for the last 6-7 years sure has been nice!
It was on its third battery by then though, also the third set of tires, third set of spark plugs. I had never had to replace brake pads or the clutch. I gave the car to a friend, who did have to replace the front brake pads a couple of months ago, at about 175K.
Apart from that, ummm?? I replaced the drive belts once. Fluids and air filters certainly came and went a bunch of times over the years. I never checked the valve clearance, and it was never a problem that I didn't. Never did the water pump, alternator, starter, or CV joints - those were all original when my friend took it.
If you want a car that will run forever with the absolute minimum of attention, I think you have found it with the Echo!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Nothing else. Son and GF have driven to Seattle and back from NJ the past two summers.
I bought the car for them five or six years ago for $3000 with 117k miles.
oil service + inspection,
replace drivebelt
replace front exhaust gasket
136k
Ya it's a very good car still have the original battery and no problem in winter
no big repare on this car
love toyota
they are good
But I think I'm about convinced that my odds are pretty good for now, so I'll just keep driving! Of course, I do the basics, like oil and filters, and I did change the transmission fluid & screen last year. But the only thing that has broken so far is a couple of cracked hubcaps. I can live with that!
Now, if you could accurately determine whats going to fail youd be on to something. ; )
Any idea's?I also have the engine shake sometime's at idle.Motor mounts?And intermitten squeling or chirping also.When clutch is engaged it goes away,but when clutch is released it comes back.
I just bought the car 2500 bucks ,safety e-tested,no claimed accidents.original miliage on engine.
Please help. I heard the clutch is lite in the ECHO but it seemed tighter when i first got it.
thank you Bryan in Ontario Canada
If you meant squealing when the clutch is released in gear and the car begins to move, that would be different.
As for increasing lightness of the clutch, you will know when it is not properly releasing any more because the gears will begin to grind as you engage them with the stick shift.
A lot of what you describe could be attributed to a failing clutch.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I meant that its to light of a feel.Its like a drum pedal for a set of drums.I mean thats pretty light feel.
It seemed the clutch was tighter when first getting the car,so thats indicating a problem to me.
But maybe the car wasnt driven much before I got it.Sittin on the lot.
Any other input would be great thanks.:)
As long s the gears shift quietly ditto.
I think you are fine!
I did a full exhaust due to aftermarket cat converter (bad at 140K) not matching OEM muffler (go figure, I got to due the muffler also). The replacement Bosal muffler had a bad seam that I thought was the connection to the cat so went to the shop. Went to Menike and they showed me the bad seam for free and I drove to AZ and they ordered a replacement. I reinstalled the replacement and still could not get the joint to seal so I went to Menike again and had them cut and weld. 80K later I got a engine code showing possible cat failure. Up and downstream O2's replaced with previous cat. Got a new cat via warranty replacement. Installed and codes cleared, I could see evidence of seam failure on the cat by the residue.
New platinum plugs about a year back.
Oil change every 3 - 5 K.
Air filter, engine and cabin, once a year.
Brakes front about every other year (bought a spare set of rotors for a half-hour driveway break swap), Rear first time just a couple of months back.
Clutch still nice and tight.
Dave
Im afraid you will have an accident driving like that.
Jay
Maybe the biggest in the industry and not just for longevity.
Rear Shocks
Motor Mounts
Rear Brakes including rotors.
rear speakers
Hope that I don't find too many more problems
ECHOs have drums on the rear.
Hows the gas mileage?
Also, my front speakers have a loose connection somewhere since sometimes they'll come on. I'm only getting sound in the back. Is this a quick and easy fix - or will I have to pay some big money to get this fixed?
TIA!
The hardest part is accessing the top bolts located under the Rear deck. You will need a good long extension for your socket wrench.
I did mine in under an hour.
I do not recall the cost but under eighty for two shocks and bellows from AZ or AA.
Dave
So, if anyone knows a ball-park figure or maybe just had it done themselves, I'm just curious as to how much this is going to set me back.
And about the speakers, my echo has an aftermarket stereo system/cd player and has the same problem you describe, where going over a bump might cause the front speakers to come for a few seconds and then they go dead again, so I'd be interested in knowing if you find the culprit. For now, given the spartan nature of the Echo, I'm just glad it even has a radio!
Always glad to hear from other Echo owners out there!
I've pushed down on the back end to see if it "bounces" - but it doesn't do that.
Maybe I don't need something changed out? Or maybe I do?
I've already had the front struts replaced (and bushings), changed out the steering fluid, changed out the front brakes, have had tires replaced, and a tune-up done.
I was mistaken on the mileage. I've actually only got 104,000 on the car!
I think with the stereo it may be a loose wire somewhere. I'll be checking out some local auto stereo shops this weekend. I really miss not having that "surround sound" in the car. It's a "treat" when I sometimes I get a day of it when the front speakers decide to pop on! LOL
After removing the shocks I could compress and extend them by hand. The new ones took more pressure and it was tougher to compress them.
I am planing on replacing the stock radio and was just looking on line for a replacement. I got the Echo used with about 30k miles on it back in 04 and the previous owner must have damaged the tape player. I had no idea until recently after trying to use a converter with a smartphone to listen to podcasts.
I had the radio out for some reason a few years back and I recall it has a single large connector.
You probably need to reseat the connector. As a first check. If it is still glitching you probably need to check for a loose connection at the speakers.
Dave
As for the stereo, one of the guys there said it would be best to take it to the Toyota dealership since they have all the schematics for the wiring and all - and would be able to figure out where the loose connections were. So I may have to bite the bullet with that.
But at least I found a really nice mechanic to go to. They'll be getting my business in the future.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Does the hose go to the fuel rail the injectors are on?
If worst comes to worst tow it to the mechanic. Its too good a car to lose!
If it was me I would drive it spraying and all to the mechanic if it wasnt too far away. Maybe at night to avoid traffic and delays....
After taking a look at the car and the service manual I am still at a loss. The plastic nobs that were supposed to adjust the headlights seem to have fallen off. I can sort of adjust the lights by pushing or pulling the bit of nob I can grab with pliers, but there has to be a better way that won't be messed up by a bumpy road.
Anyone know how I can still adjust the headlights without buying a new assembly? or where I can purchase some replacement adjustment nobs?
At least one other website says that there is no adjustment since they are set at the factory.
You could always add a sandbag or two to the trunk to make them point higher... sorry I know that ain't much help.
They charged me $60 for the so-called "inspection" and left it as not passed and got belligerent with me when I tried to explain to them that the engine light has been on because of their not correcting a bad installation of this particular part.
Go to a Toyota repair place before a minor repair becomes a deliberate misinformation campaign conducted by mechanics that can't ably work on today's cars.