Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
And the day that it turned off on me it was choking and I pumped the gas pedal hoping to keep it on but it, seemed like it was trying to but finally it died.
Now if it was electrical, such as the crank sensor wouldn't it have shut off right there and then without putting up a fight and acting as if it was going to stay on.
Hope this makes sense... really appreciate your advice.
Thanks
Regards,
Dusty
If you've found a lot of gray (or is it "grey") silt on everything inside the differential housing, and this is the first time the differential has ever been maintained or inspected, this is normal. I suspect you might have a limited slip differential, the gray material being primarily limited slip clutch material. When changing rear differential fluid, I flush everything out. Replenishing with new gear oil will be beneficial, but you'll still have a lot of silt floating around in the housing.
If the noise is heard predominantly when you are coasting down in gear, I would suspect either the front or rear pinion bearing is galled and likely the issue. This is especially a suspect if the whine is high pitched.
If the noise goes away when the transmission is put into neutral at the speed you hear the noise, the problem could be low rear differential fluid, expended fluid, incorrect gear backlash, or worn pinion, ring, or side gears.
I hope this is still under warranty for you. In my experience rear differential noise is only temporarily resolved by replacing parts. I've seen a number of these differential housings that had improperly machined pinion offset
Check back with us and let us know what fixed it.
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks
Have you gotten anywhere fixing your problem?
I have good voltage everywhere I can check, I also have no front parking lights either................headlights & foglights are OK, so are the blinkers, hazards, and brake lights.
Thanks in Advance
The parking lights are controlled by starting at the 50amp fuse #15, and then to the parking light relay #73, then to fuse #32 & #34.
Although I wouldn't say this is a common occurrence, when I hear of this symptom a gear box is always the reason. On your vintage RAM Dodge uses a Saginaw gearbox that is almost identical to the ones used on GM products. And, yes, they have the same kind of problem on those, too. (Of course, on Fords the sector shafts wear!)
Best regards,
Dusty
Well, I bought the steering gearbox at Advanced auto about 3 months ago. It is a remanufactured box and I bought it because it was $175.00 verses the $789.00 I was quoted at the Dodge dealer. I guess you "Do" get what you pay for. If this is the Saginaw that I have installed, what gearbox should I buy to fix this? By the way, thanks for the quick reply.
Bryan
And I tried a different headlight switch, one without fogs, but that too resulted the same..........no lights. :-(
However, I think you said this was a 4WD. Have you checked the ball joints? I find it hard to believe that a balll joint could do this, but if it's real bad, maybe. How are the tires wearing?
And, despite this potentially being a silly question to you, are you sure that the vehicle is not in four-wheel drive?
Best regards,
Dusty
Bryan
Thanks for the feed and and help
Bryan
I recently had my ABS, Brake, and Air Bag light all stay on along with A/C not working, speedometer not working at all, power locks not locking, and power windows not working. Took several rounds with a dealership and searching on the Internet but found that it could be the rear speed sensor. I bought that and replaced and everything seems to be okay now, even though it didn't fix it immediately. One day it just started working after the sensor was replaced and has been working for a few months now. However, I still have a Brake light that stays on and I have done all I know to do. I just replaced brakes all the way around this weekend and had rotors turned. I found that one of the springs had broke in the right rear wheel and had messed up the brake pad a little and I had my hopes that it was causing the light to stay on. I have checked fluid and parking brake lines with no success. What would be the next logical step at this point. I have basically lost all faith in the local dealerships around here because they almost acted as if I was the stupid one when describing this problem.
Thanks,
Shawn
Bryan
part #05175538-AA repair kit 14-073-002 >listed $538.00 c$
run a 2002 RAM 3500 isb turbo diesel, 4x4 4inch shot gun exhaust(home made) air hog/custom air box modification,new vp44, now new lift pump #4, did relocation of stock from engine to infront of tank to keep from burning out - 3;55 gears,auto 47re built to spec i requested(3rd trans)just broke over drive housing at transfer case. know this sound serious but have 1/2 million kilometers on it and use it for RV delivery driving 10-18 hours a day at 65-75 miles per hour. still pulls 12.5-14.0 mpg.any one with any how to's or power increases(mechanical not plug and play), i would be interested in talking. found cam replacement that is good for 400 hp and up to 600hp with add ons.any ways hope that the lift pump will be helpfull
It's easy to fix yourself.
You must remove the cluster, disconnect the wire harness.
Remove the cardboard on the back of the cluster, and now you have access to the PCB.
Remove the screws holding the PCB in place.
Turn the PCB over and inspect the solder connections on the wire harness connector. They will be cracked.
Resolder the connections, reassemble.
Now your speedometer, tach, fuel guage ect... will work.
Waiting...................................
Check the fuel pump and ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relays.
Regards,
Dusty
If the brake system is working fine you may have a stuck valve in the Anti-lock Brake Hydraulic unit. But look for corroded terminals at the rear speed sensor.
Regards,
Dusty
With bigger tires you might be better off going with the 4.10. The tow rating for the 3.73 is somewhere around 14000 lbs. and I think with 4.10 might go about 15000. Good luck, hope this helps you out
Recently had a hitch and lighting harness put on by the folks at Uhaul. Hooked it up to my trailer and all the lights worked correctly. Once I got to my destinations and unhooked the trailer, started having all types of lighting issues....
Right turn signal does not work, hazards do not work, ABS and "Brake" light indicators stay on.
Idiots at Uhaul took lighting harness off, replaced some fuses and still had the same problem. Bulbs on right side look OK. Any ideas? Could the flasher cause just the right side not to blink?
thanks,
Mark