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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 2000 - 2003 (AN) DAKOTA TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH A 4.7L ENGINE (SALES CODE EVA) AND 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION (SALES CODE A36). 2002 - 2003 (DR) RAM TRUCK EQUIPPED WITH 3.7L, 4.7L OR 5.7L ENGINE (SALES CODE EKG, EVA, OR EZA) AND 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION (SALES CODE A36, A64, OR A74).
DISCUSSION:
The clutch housing maintains alignment between the crankshaft and transmission input shaft. The structural cover provides additional powertrain stiffness and reduces noise and vibration. If either one is bolted to the engine or to each other, in the wrong sequence, drivetrain misalignment could result. Misalignment could result in reduced life expectancy of drivetrain components such as the clutch disc assembly, pilot bearing, clutch release components, and transmission.
If misalignment is suspected and the clutch housing bore runout is found to be excessive using the diagnostic procedures in the service manual or if the clutch housing and structural cover has been removed for any reason, the components should be installed using the following Repair Procedure.
If you put it in second, does it coast and if you step on the gas go into first? Almost like there's no second gear?
I can drive the truck normal but it kicks into first to easy and slides into third. Geez...., If you get an answer, let me know. I've been waiting to hear an answer for about a month
Hoping it was a bolt on or adjustment and not a blown tranny.
Thanks,
Paul :confuse:
pgcarter@sacoriver.net
Your '02 RAM diesel has the 47RE transmission, I believe. This version is actually more than adequate behind the Cummins for that year. The drive architecture is strong and rated with a good margin for the power of the Cummins in that year. I have never seen or heard of a broken sun gear, planetary gear, input or output shafts in a 47RE behind a Cummins.
Problems with these transmissions are usually prompted by lack of maintenance, incorrect ATF, improper usage, high mileage, or a combination of these. Contaminated (dirty) or oxidized automatic transmission fluid will cause eventual wear or damage to major components. Keeping the transmission in overdrive when carrying or towing heavy loads, especially in very cold temperatures and in hilly terrain, will overheat the overdrive unit. This causes premature oxidation of the ATF, as well as loading the fluid up with wear material, and that causes poor fluid flow in the valve body (shift) components. This in turn causes advanced clutch wear.
Using the incorrect fluid will commit these transmissions to certain death. Never use Dexron-Mercon. Always use ATF+4.
Of the more common serious component problems with this engine-transmission combination requiring major tear down are usually associated with a worn torque converter clutch, worn bands (commonly the kickdown band), or worn overdrive clutches.
Probably the most common problem seen on these transmissions are clogged valve body ports or sticky shift solenoids and clogged anti-drain back valves. Earlier shift solenoids became magnetized over time rendering them erratic or inoperable. I've seen shift cables out of adjustment. The majority of the time shifting issues can be resolved by removing and cleaning the valve body and related components. However, dirty fluid requires complete evacuation of the transmission, and usually requires a replacement of the anti-drain back valve, although they can be cleaned if done properly.
I've seen many of these transmissions go 150,000 miles without problem or tear down. And I've seen some go even further. Keep in mind that by their very nature a diesel truck is going to put more wear on transmission parts if used at or near work capacity.
If the fluid and filter is changed regularly, the bands are adjusted periodically, and overdrive is switched off when towing or carry very heavy loads or in hilly country, these transmissions will go just as far as anything else.
Best regards,
Dusty
I managed a fleet of LD pickups some years ago for my company. The 2000 F150 was a pretty good truck, in my opinion. In my experience, however, the Dodge and Ford of that year were about as close as you'll ever get in terms of reliability. They both have their pluses and minuses. You shouldn't go wrong with either one.
Regards,
Dusty
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kcram - Pickups Host
Is the check engine light on? If it is on, you can get the code(s) manually. Get paper and pencil in case there are more than one.
Here's how: Put the key in the ignition and cycle it on-off-on off-on. Look at the odometer and in a few seconds numbers will appear. These are your fault codes. Go to Auto Zone, they will tell you what the codes are.
:sick: Thanks John
Remove the dust cover, and if you stick a flat blade screwdriver (or a wider "brake adjusting tool") you can slowly click a starwheel to push the rear brake shoes (the ones specifically for the parking brake) until they rub up againt the inside surface of the rear disc rotor...then, back off 2-3 clicks so that the wheel spins freely without friction...that is only if the brake shoe surface is too far away from the inside rotor surface...
another possibility is to check the parking brake cable and see if it is snug or slack...if snug, then it is probably the inside brake shoes that are the problem...if it has slack, then when you step on the parking brake, you are pulling up the cable slack without applying the actual brake, hence, no parking brake...in that case, there is a cable adjuster used to take out the slack...
And, it could be both... :P :P
On the p0455 code - When I go to buy a new gas cap, is a non-oem cap from the local autoparts store ok or do I have to go buy one from Dodge?
On the P1762 code - my transmission is sometimes not shifting properly from first to 2nd to 3rd. It just does it every other time. If I let the truck warm up for a couple of minutes and the gas tank is at least 1/2 full it always shifts ok. What are the easy steps to take for fixing this one? Any ideals?
Sounds crazy but it worked. My father in law, a mechanic all his life told me to mix an amount equal to 1/2 soda can of brake fluid and the other half of trans fluid. Put it in the tranny and let it idle or drive it as usual. After the second day the problem disappeared and I sold the car 2 years later and it still ran fine.
Good luck,
Israel Delgado
However, some basic web searching will reveal many simple driving techniques that will help you use less gas for the miles that you drive. You can also find several discussions dedicated to gas mileage here on Edmunds.
I went from 16 mpg to 19 mpg highway after flushing the tranny.
dodge owner
Will
I've got a sick ritual where I wait until 9pm on tax day to START doing my taxes and then roll up to the post office around 11:30p to drop it off. Well this year is the last year I do that.
I got in my truck, put the key in the ignition, started turning it, all the lights on the dash turned on as usual and as I continued to start it, all the lights in the vehicle when out. Except for the red security alarm light blinking on my dashboard. Walked away for a few minutes and then came back to the truck. All the lights worked again until I tried to start it.
This is apparently the vehicle's built-in security system. Assuming no one was messing with my vehicle earlier that evening, what could have caused this to engage? Is there anything special about the key that could be causing this (key worn or some unknown security device in the chip)?
Is there any simple way to reset it or bypass it without significant effort? Does anyone have any suggestions for things I can try? If I have to take it into the dealer, what is the likely problem and cost to fix (looking for a reasonably educated estimate)? Any help anyone can provide would be appreciated. Thanks.
Ive just now been able to get back on the message Board.
Kept getting an error when trying to log on.
As long as I drive it easy it drives fine, but who like to drive easy and pass people in 3rd gear?
On the upside, I'm getting great gas mileage!
Thanks for the advice. At least I've got a list to
check thru now.
Paul
Not a bunch, but it helps.
Can't believe I was that careless, unfortunately I bought the truck and it sat in the garage for 2 months, I drove my old truck, 'saving' the new one from winter salt.
One last gripe...this dealer is an hour drive for me so on top of money this all eats time too. There...now I feel better. I really do want to know if this 'frozen hub' thing is happened to anyone else?
Agreed....in-tank pumps rely on fuel level for cooling which is why it is recommended to never drive at 1/4 tank or lower for extended times. This sounds like the pump is getting too hot and not pumping sufficently.
Unbolt all but the rear bolts on the bed, just loosen those enough to raise the front of the bed. Raise the bed and prop it securely and then you have access to the top of the fuel tank. You will also have to remove the filler neck hose.
Someone said it sounds like IGNITION SWITCH + pigtail need replacing.
Comments and / or suggestions please. Please e-mail g.e.adams@sbcglobal.net (George) Thanks in advance
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
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