My 1996 3500 Cummins/47RE has been pretty stable for 103K miles now. I expect it will be somewhere around 120-125K when I get my 2005 3500 Cummins/48RE. I do maintain my 47RE annually (fluid, filter, gasket, screen, bands), so that has promoted its longevity. These days, I go a bit longer than the 12K miles between services because now I do a lot more highway work - 70 of the 80 miles per day I drive, the trans is in OD/lockup on the interstate, whereas I peviously lived a mere 6 suburban street miles from my day job.
The ratios of the 47/48RE pretty much match gears 3-4-5-6 of the manual, so if you really have no need for the 2 lower gears of the handhaker, the automatic will be just fine.
I just purchased a 2001 cummings automatic with 36,000 miles. Now I hear that the automatics are bad.This is my first diesel and automatic. If anyone has any useful info on maintaining this truck please let me know..Also it has the overdrive and I live on a nine mile curvy road and I notice that when the overdrive is off the rpm's run higher. What is better to have the overdrive on or off on this type of road.Thanks
Chevy and Ford people. We were told after we bought our 99 Ram V10 that in 1999 the V10 had a problem with throwing rods. Hmmmm, um, nope, it didn't.
Dusty I do have a question for you.....
Our 99 Ram 3500 dually is a handful to drive. We thought at first it was the missing steering dampner, so we replaced that (we bought the truck used), it got a little better, but is still aweful loose. The steering gear box has been replaced once already on this truck (according to the Dodge dealer's records) and we found it leaking a few weeks ago. Its since stopped leaking. We have an extended warranty on the truck, thinking about taking it in and having the gear box looked at. That sound like it might be the problem? The truck only has 13k on it. Thanks for any info.
If the previous owner had removed the dampner, I wonder what else they changed? Possible they may have stuck a lift on it and then removed it before selling? It's hard to tell what was put back wrong (or put back at all) when they did the swap. Isn't there supposed to be a sway-bar on the front of these too? Is it possible this truck was wrecked (but not totalled)? 13k miles is awfully low to be eating steering boxes and such. It's scarey to have such low miles too, makes you wonder where it's been for the past five years.
My '01 doesn't track all that great, but I wouldn't say it's a handfull. I noticed a big difference when the bearings were going bad (around 80k miles) but tires seem to really make a difference. The factory Michelins felt good but not very sticky in the mud/snow. I went to Toyo A/T's and and they wandered around a lot too. I'm back to Michelin A/T's and they're a nice compromise between the OEM Michelins and a cheaper A/T.
It doesn't take me long to feel comfortable in the '01, but jumping into that out of my '03 Ram dually will scare you for a few minutes. The '03 Rams have better steering than some cars I've driven.
Out of all my years on this planet I have NEVER seen an LA based engine throw a rod, and that includes some extremely abused samples, too. Now I suppose somewhere, someplace, its happened, but I'm pretty sure it's an event more rare than an honest politician.
I'm not specifically familar with the heavy RAMs, but I don't ever remember someone having a similar comment like yours, so I'm guessing it's not an inherent trait.
As to the leaking gear box and the fact you've replaced it already, I would bet that it's made by Saginaw (GM). Just a guess, but I'd bet that the lower sector shaft bearings wore and the seal passed fluid. Big Chevies and GMCs will more than occasionally have the same problem.
You could have a stack-up of front suspension wear tolerances that are contributing to this condition, or really out of alignment, but I would think you'd have other signs of front end problems, like signs of tire wear. The steering column shaft coupler could be worn, or the gear box itself may be loose on the frame.
Sorry, I don't think I'm being much help to you on this one.
We bought the truck used at 11,300 miles in November. I think if we had checked its service history BEFORE we bought it I would have run screaming for the hills. We found out about the steering gear box replacement after we bought it. We've replaced nothing on it thusfar except fo the dampner. I dunno, hubby loves his truck, it doesn't really bother him too much. I've only driven it once and that was plenty for me. Its loose but I've driven worse.
Best we can tell it was kept for hauling a truck camper, we can see where the wiring and the tiedowns were at one time.
I don't believe for a second it was wrecked, no signs of it that anyone has found so far. Other than that, I think the only reason it changed owners so much is the steering and fuel economy. Also, we bought it in Anchorage and vehicles tend to have very low mileage down there. The 97 Explorer that I just traded in only had 41k on it when I bought it in July 2003.
The guy at the dodge dealer where we asked about its service history said that some of those 3500 have strange steering. The dodge dealer closer to home agrees.
The fun part is we bought it at a Ford dealer, so have a Ford backed ESC, we have to take it to a Ford dealer, not a Dodge dealer. Who knows, they might have a different perspective on it and be able to correct it. That is if we would ever get off our lazy (ha, more like busy) butts and take it in.
I'm about an hour south of Fairbanks, right smack dab in the cold interior of alaska. We've seen -40 or so this year already. Now you see why everything mechanical gives up so easily. My 97 Explorer was perfectly happy to go back to Anchorage.
I worked with a guy who was in the Army Air Corp during WWII and stationed up there. He was ground crew on B25s and B26s and once remarked that they keep fires going all night under the engine nacelles to keep the planes ready to start in the mornings. If I recall correctly, he said there were times when the temps were -50 and lower. I don't think that was wind chill, either.
My husband was here for the winter of 88-89 where the temps at Clear AFS (where he works) dropped to -78. His faithful little 88 F-150 started, but the poor thing couldn't move. Coldest I've seen is -65, I've driven a car at -55 and NOTHING works right.
I currently own a 02 Ram 1500 QC with the 275/70/17 GY/ATS tire option.
Other vehicles include an 88 and a 04 Accord.
Measure your tire pressure when your tires are cold. Drive to get them up to operating temperature, 25 miles or so, give or take.
Measure you tire pressure again after they're up to operating temperature.
If the pressure difference is less than 3 psi you have too much air in your tires "not enough sidewall deflection". The tires aren't generating enough heat. The tires will wear out in the middle.
If the pressure difference is more than 6 psi you don't have enough air in you tires "too much sidewall deflection". The tires are generating too much heat.
If the pressure difference is between 3 and 6 psi you're in good shape.
On the Ram I run 42 psi in the front tires and 36 psi in the back tires and rotate every 10k and my tires are wearing perfectly as measured by my tread depth gauge.
On the Accords I run 33 all the way around and also have perfect tread wear.
Please keep in mind that all of these vehicles have good wheel alignments, if you don't you'll never nail down the correct tire pressures.
I use this formula "if you want to call it that" all year round. I live in the mountains of North Central Pa. our temps range from -10 to 90 and this has always worked for me and I check tire pressure monthly. I run Michelins on the Hondas and usually get around 60k, currently have 23k on the Ram and all is good there also.
My 98 now has 70K and has pulled 10,000 lbs of trailer and my wifes extra stuff over all the Colorado passes.No problems at all.One set of brakes and a fan belt has been it.I don't know if the Hemi will pull like the V-10 and for those who don't care for a diesel I totally recommend a V-10.I also like the older grill and bumper treatment;not quite so massive.
I couldn't agree with you more. We have owned two V10's, awesome trucks. Our first one, a 2002 2500 q-cab 4x4 V10 auto averaged 10 mpg towing or not, our second one, a 1999 3500 duelly, reg cab 4x4 V10 auto is averaging about 11 mpg towing or not. My dad has a 2001 2500 q-cab Cummins auto 4x4 and he averages 15 mpg empty and 8 mpg towing, I'd rather have the V10 personally. We have towed with his Cummins and the V10 is so much more powerful.
I bought a new Dodge cummins and just wanted to let everyone know that so far, it may be the best vehicle I've ever owned. It's very quite and drives like a V8 gas powered truck. So far I just love it. The only problem so far is that the cables that hold the tailgate are at different lengths, so that one of the only one of the cables is holding the tailgate when the tailgate is down. I'll be returning it to fix that problem. One good thing is the fuel mileage, 21.82 mpg on first tank and 20.8 mpg on the second tank. Sure hope it holds up for the life of the truck.
fangster - you have the same size tires on your RAM as I have on mine. I am surprised that you are not getting exessive wear in the middle of your front tires running 42 psi. I'm running 35 psi and watch temp. changes carefully (live in Wisconsin) should I consider upping the psi?
Even though it's -2 outside I went out at lunch and checked my tire pressures and they're exactly as stated, then I got the tread depth gauge and ran it all the way accross and I'm at 11/32 straight across the tread. The truck has 22,530 miles on it. I never trust my eyes for tire pressure or tread wear. Have you ran a tread depth gauge on your tires?
I have not ran a guage but I can clearly see visually that my tires have a bit more wear in the middle. Thing is I bought my '02 1500 RAM witha about 21,000 miles on it, I'm over 24,000 now but I have no idea how much air the prior owner ran and how vigilant he was about checking etc. It would seem to me though that the ride would definitely be stiffer with 7more lbs. than is indicated for the truck. I don't rely on the door sticker because that does not always coincide with the size tires actually on the truck (as is the case on my truck). The information that comes with the owner's manual shows 35psi as recommended pressure for the size tires on my truck. Fangster where did you derive your formula from??
On another note, anyone out there have any opinion on the following choices for a tonneau covers Access vs. Truxedo vs. the new Torza folding model? Any input would be appreciated - having a difficult time deciding.
The 275/70/17 tire option for the 1500 Ram are "unfortunately" GY/ATS ,load range C tires and have a 50 psi max as compared to the 245 or 265 tires which have a 35 psi max. My truck definatly doesn't ride like a Cadilac but it certinally isn't stiff. My guess is that the previous owner of your truck had them at 50 psi or more. The door sticker has no info for our tire size and is just there to cover the manufactures butt.
The formula I mentioned in post #658 was actually worked out when we were racing 1/4 mile and trying to get the most rubber on the ground without using slicks. The results were derived from trail and error. Since we were racing on the same tires that we drove to the track on we noticed a big difference in the pressures that we left home with and arrived at the track with. We kept working with the pressures until we came up with that "formula" which put a perfect footprint of tire on the road with no high or low spots with the footprint after the car had been driven to operating temps. I have been using this for a little over 21 years now and the results have proven themselves on every set of tires that I ever had on any of my vehicles.
As for the tonneau cover, I have the "Tuff Tonno 3" and it is the nicest, slickest Tonneau cover I have ever seen or used....
Unlike passenger car tires, LT tires with load ratings C and up are duty-rated, meaning you only inflate them to the actual weight that is upon them. The LT215/85R16E sneakers on my 3500 are inflated at 60-65 psi up front and 35-40 for the 4 rear tires. Always weigh your truck at least once to see what your usual weight at each axle will be, then use the inflation charts provided in your owner's manual folder to select the correct inflation for the load.
If someone just blindly fills E-rated tires to their max of 80 psi, they will likely be kissing those tires goodbye much sooner than necessary because they will likely be overinflated for the loading and will wear out in the middle of the tread (rather than the edges).
In an earlier post someone commented that the tire certification label found on the drivers door jamb of Dodge pick-ups had a history of being inaccurate. The other day I heard a conversation about the tire certification label "listing the wrong tires" for a competitive make truck.
Upon investigation it appears that the Tire Certification Label -- and Dodge specifically, at least -- is not intended to represent the tires that are installed at the factory.
The Tire Certification Label lists the MINIMUM rim size and tire required for the vehicle as equipped from the factory, as well as the cold tire air pressures for the MINIMUM tire requirements.
It is not intended to indicate that the tires installed at the factory match the Tire Certification Label.
By the way, I did find this information in my 2003 Dakota service manual (page 22-6).
>>>Unlike passenger car tires, LT tires with load ratings C and up are duty-rated, meaning you only inflate them to the actual weight that is upon them. <<<
Is this also true for some of the radial LTs? I know Michelin makes a creature like that and I've wondered if it was really a true LT. Usually "LT" are diagonal bias and "radial," of course are radial ply.
>>>>"The Tire Certification Label lists the MINIMUM rim size and tire required for the vehicle as equipped from the factory, as well as the cold tire air pressures for the MINIMUM tire requirements."<<<<
I don't think that is quite right. The placard DOES list the tire size as originally installed on the vehicle and the appropriate inflation pressure for that size.
If there is an inaccuracy on the placard, that is grounds for a recall. There's been a recent case where that happened on a certain brand that has had some tire problems.
BTW, I've looked up all the Dodge 3500 duallies for the last 10 years and none of them had inflation pressure as 60 / 35 or 65 /40 or anything in between listed on the placard. The minimum rear inflation was listed as 50 psi and that was for a vehicle with LT235/85R16's. Duallies with LT215/85R16's had a minimum of 60 psi. I can understand the ride issue with an empty bed, but the pressure has to be increased BEFORE some load is put in. I'm sure that thsi isn't always the case. It is safer to have overinflated inflated tires, rather than overloaded ones.
Besides, there is more to choosing an inflation pressure than just load. At the very least, it is good engineering practice to have some reserve. I have been advocating 10% minimum and would prefer 15%.
Also LT metric tires can come in bias, bias belted and radial. The rules apply regardless of the type.
Thanks for the reply and clarifing the "LT" radial tire question I had. I haven't looked seriously at any of those so I never noticed a load range indicator.
Regarding the tire certification label, I think what is adding to the confusion is the ambiguiousness of the way the label reads.
Actually, the label in question is technically known as the Vehicle Safety Certification Label. The label is intended to list the minimum tire size and cold inflation pressures based on the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). Thus, it is only stating the minimum tire size and pressure for the GAWR that has been specified.
The manufacture may install a larger size (higher load capacity) tire, and if they're not changing the GAWR the minimum size tire is what is listed on the label. If you look at any Dodge factory service manual this is explained in the Introduction section.
BTW, I've looked up all the Dodge 3500 duallies for the last 10 years and none of them had inflation pressure as 60 / 35 or 65 /40 or anything in between listed on the placard. The minimum rear inflation was listed as 50 psi and that was for a vehicle with LT235/85R16's. Duallies with LT215/85R16's had a minimum of 60 psi. I can understand the ride issue with an empty bed, but the pressure has to be increased BEFORE some load is put in. I'm sure that thsi isn't always the case. It is safer to have overinflated inflated tires, rather than overloaded ones.
I agree for the most part, capri, and I do air up if I know I'm going to be carrying something heavy. Ironically, I'm running Michelin LTX M/S Commercial 215s, and after almost 30K miles in 21 months, the 4 rear tires look brand new at 35-40psi all this time - even the sipes are still there. Could easily go another 50K.
Here's the tire chart I like to use: http://www.trucktires.com/zip/Light_Truck_Tables.ZIP That's three PDFs zipped together - the ones named "page 81" and "page 82" cover most of the LT-metric tires used on current pickups, including Dodge's new LT235/80R17E. These are posted by Bridgestone, and cross-ref the axle load to the psi of the tire that will support that load. With me and a full load of fuel and fluids, my 3500 comes in around 7000 pounds, with about a 4200/2800 axle split. That means the rear tires are supporting just 700 pounds each. At 35 psi, the tire is safely capable of 1390 - almost double. 50 psi is 1765 pounds per tire, which would have the rear of the truck bouncing all over the interstate when empty.
Okay. It appears there has been a tire label used that I haven't seen. My 2003 Dakota doesn't have "recommended tire" label and a friends 2003 Ram doesn't either. The 2003 Dakota service manual doesn't document one.
Oddly, this conversation came up earlier in the week involving a 2000 GMC Sierra.
Norton Internet Security 2004 here, all virus definitions current as of yesterday, no warnings. Redownloaded today, scanned the zip and the PDFs, they're clean. Would never link a file I haven't already downloaded myself...
It does seem we are discussing different labels. I've never encountered the "2nd label" and I can see where it would lead to confusion.
Post # 658 by Fangster has me concerned. The idea of using pressure buildup as an indicator is a good one. However, the conditions used to generate the pressure buildup ought to be worst case, if we are discussing setting up a road vehicle. Things such as vehicle speed, ambient temperature, vehicle load, etc. are all going to affect the answer you get. I use this pressure buildup as an indicator that there is something wrong, rather than an indicator of what is right. Plus I know that different tire manufacturers have different pressure buildups, because the operating temperatures are slightly different. So it's hard to be precise.
The load tables are but one tool in trying to determine the proper air pressure. The tables highlighted are straight out of The Tire and Rim Association Yearbook, but unfortunately, there are some pages missing - ones that deal with more subtle issues. For example, non speed rated LT tires are supposed to be inflated to 10 psi more if the operating speed is 66 to 75 mph. I assume that all of Bridgestone's LT metrics are speed rated, since they didn't note this.
Anyway, I prefer that folks follow the placard settings, and deviate from them very cautiously, recognizing there is a lot of information needed to decide the proper inflation pressure, and there is a lot at stake - specifically Safety. I would hate it if someone were to be hurt (or worse) if a tire failed because of something they did without having the full info available.
Since I was out early this morning enjoying our "heat wave" (+18), I stopped by my dealer to talk with my salesman and get a free cup of coffee. They had two 2004 RAMs out front that are demos so I looked for labels. I could only find one, the Vehicle Safety Certification Label. I looked at three Dakotas, one being a 2000, and I saw only the one safety label.
As an aside I've read comments about the "ugly" interiors on the RAMs. Such things are a matter of subjective taste of course, but golly, they look pretty good to me. I recently had the opportunity to drive an '04 F150. Although I thought the interior was nicely done, I also thought it was just a little odd looking. To me the RAM seems to have understated class, smooth flowing transitions and no glitzy eye-disturbing forms.
capri, I tend to only use commercial-duty tires... I had Bridgestone M773s before my current Michelin LTX M/S Commercials. None of them are speed rated, which means they're not tested above 75 mph - and that's fine by me. I don't need to hurtle a 7000 pound 4x4 dually down a highway any faster than that anyway.
I plan on getting a 2005 Ram 3500, and although the LT235/80R17E will use even less psi for the weight normally carried, I'll prbably air them up a little for two reasons: - the Goodyear Wrangler GS/A is not a commercial-duty tire and doesn't have the reinforced construction to handle lower psi consistently - I plan on using Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks that can tailor the ride
Both the Bridges and the Miches have seen their share of impact that would have shredded a lesser model - tire carcasses on the interstate at 65mph, glass bottles in the street, curb abrasions where circumtances forced me to scrub the outside right tire at a corner - not even a cut, let alone a puncture.
Dusty, if ytou're referring going from P-metric radials to LT-Metric or LT "flotation" radials, you'll get a much stiffer ride. LT radials start at load range C for the most part, which is a 50psi tire. The sidewalls are stronger, and thus will be less forgiving on pavement.
Bought a 98 Quad Cab 4WD Shortbed new when the Quads first came out. Really like the truck - styling, versatility, comfort. It's a shame but I am hesitant to buy another. At 71k miles when hill climbing on highway engine would knock violently, lose power and check engine light would flash. Easing up on gas and engine operation would return to normal.
Dealer diagnosised bad engine seal that was allowing motor oil to enter in to fuel injection system. $800 later all was okay except my wallet.
The truck has stalled on me many times usually idling in gear. After long trips if I park it on anyless than level ground tranny won't engage on the first AM attempt and then clunks hard into gear.
When the battery died after jump starting it engine refuses to idle without giving the motor lots of gas pedal making for some interesting parking and traffic maneuvers!! I have owned 8 others vehicles, putting 100k to 185k miles on each and never had the number of problems this vehicle has had. All of them maintained to the book.
So I am shopping for a new full size truck. Imagine my surprise to discover ONLY Dodge's full size has seatbelts/seating for 6. That's right 3/4 ton Toyota, GM, Ford, Nissan only seat 5. Now how stupid is it to drive a vehiicle of this size and not have any more passenger capacity than a Civic!!!?
Wish me better luck with my new Dodge. They claim quality is up but if Mercedes quality slide is any indication I am doubtful
Or, maybe I am out-of-date. At least my kids think so. Most of my favorite actors and actresses are dead, and on my top ten list of favorite movies there's only two that are in color.
How's the weather up in Idaho? How's your SuperCrew running?
Of course, some of these are not representative of actual technical problems, like the specification of ATF and labor codes (2002 RAM).
If anybody in here wants to put things in perspective, look at the 2002 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC bulletins. Much worse, both in number and in severity. Twenty-two for automatic transmission alone (to RAMs two PCM flashes), many very serious.
Ford F-150 is better numerically, but I wouldn't want my 4x4 transfer case to engage all by itself at 60 MPH.
I've been looking strongly at a Dodge 3500 quad cab with Cummins diesel and manual transmission as well as the Ford offerings. In looking at the specs if I'm not mistaken Ford indicates it will seat five or six. I assume five only in those with captain's seats in the front or a manual tranny if the front seat is a bench since seating one in the middle of the front seat would impede shifting with the floor shift. I would expect you to be able to seat six, Dodge, GM, or Ford only in those with an automatic transmission and front bench seat. In addition, it appears the Ford has five or so inches more legroom in the rear seats of their quad cab.
The Ford crew-cab is bigger in the rear seats, as is the entire truck. Turning radius is over 10' wider for a Ford crew-cab long-bed compared to a Dodge quad-cab long-bed. That was important to me because I pull a 40' trailer and have a very crowded lot to pull in/out of regularly. Also, I don't haul oversized adults regularly so the Dodge was more than adequate. I've rode in the back for a stretch of a trip and I didn't really think it was uncomfortable. It wasn't town-car sized room, but it was as comfortable as mose decent sized sedans.
My Ram 3500 is a six-speed manual with a bench seat in the front and I could fit six. It wouldn't be extremely comfortable for the center front passenger because of the shifter/console, but could work in a pinch.
Comments
The ratios of the 47/48RE pretty much match gears 3-4-5-6 of the manual, so if you really have no need for the 2 lower gears of the handhaker, the automatic will be just fine.
kcram
Host
Smart Shopper and FWI Message Boards
No, Dodge truck automatics are not bad.
See my post #644 in this thread.
Best regards,
Dusty
Dusty I do have a question for you.....
Our 99 Ram 3500 dually is a handful to drive. We thought at first it was the missing steering dampner, so we replaced that (we bought the truck used), it got a little better, but is still aweful loose. The steering gear box has been replaced once already on this truck (according to the Dodge dealer's records) and we found it leaking a few weeks ago. Its since stopped leaking. We have an extended warranty on the truck, thinking about taking it in and having the gear box looked at. That sound like it might be the problem? The truck only has 13k on it. Thanks for any info.
My '01 doesn't track all that great, but I wouldn't say it's a handfull. I noticed a big difference when the bearings were going bad (around 80k miles) but tires seem to really make a difference. The factory Michelins felt good but not very sticky in the mud/snow. I went to Toyo A/T's and and they wandered around a lot too. I'm back to Michelin A/T's and they're a nice compromise between the OEM Michelins and a cheaper A/T.
It doesn't take me long to feel comfortable in the '01, but jumping into that out of my '03 Ram dually will scare you for a few minutes. The '03 Rams have better steering than some cars I've driven.
I'm not specifically familar with the heavy RAMs, but I don't ever remember someone having a similar comment like yours, so I'm guessing it's not an inherent trait.
As to the leaking gear box and the fact you've replaced it already, I would bet that it's made by Saginaw (GM). Just a guess, but I'd bet that the lower sector shaft bearings wore and the seal passed fluid. Big Chevies and GMCs will more than occasionally have the same problem.
You could have a stack-up of front suspension wear tolerances that are contributing to this condition, or really out of alignment, but I would think you'd have other signs of front end problems, like signs of tire wear. The steering column shaft coupler could be worn, or the gear box itself may be loose on the frame.
Sorry, I don't think I'm being much help to you on this one.
Let us know what you find, if anything.
Bests,
Dusty
Best we can tell it was kept for hauling a truck camper, we can see where the wiring and the tiedowns were at one time.
I don't believe for a second it was wrecked, no signs of it that anyone has found so far. Other than that, I think the only reason it changed owners so much is the steering and fuel economy. Also, we bought it in Anchorage and vehicles tend to have very low mileage down there. The 97 Explorer that I just traded in only had 41k on it when I bought it in July 2003.
The guy at the dodge dealer where we asked about its service history said that some of those 3500 have strange steering. The dodge dealer closer to home agrees.
The fun part is we bought it at a Ford dealer, so have a Ford backed ESC, we have to take it to a Ford dealer, not a Dodge dealer. Who knows, they might have a different perspective on it and be able to correct it. That is if we would ever get off our lazy (ha, more like busy) butts and take it in.
Down there?! You mean you're north of Anchorage?
With the temperatures we've had in Western New York these past few days, I can't imagine anyone being north of Anchorage on a night like tonight.
Hope the fireplace is blazing up there!
Best regards,
Dusty
Bests,
Dusty
I currently own a 02 Ram 1500 QC with the 275/70/17 GY/ATS tire option.
Other vehicles include an 88 and a 04 Accord.
Measure your tire pressure when your tires are cold. Drive to get them up to operating temperature, 25 miles or so, give or take.
Measure you tire pressure again after they're up to operating temperature.
If the pressure difference is less than 3 psi you have too much air in your tires "not enough sidewall deflection". The tires aren't generating enough heat. The tires will wear out in the middle.
If the pressure difference is more than 6 psi you don't have enough air in you tires "too much sidewall deflection". The tires are generating too much heat.
If the pressure difference is between 3 and 6 psi you're in good shape.
On the Ram I run 42 psi in the front tires and 36 psi in the back tires and rotate every 10k and my tires are wearing perfectly as measured by my tread depth gauge.
On the Accords I run 33 all the way around and also have perfect tread wear.
Please keep in mind that all of these vehicles have good wheel alignments, if you don't you'll never nail down the correct tire pressures.
Any and all feedback is welcome.
Let me know how this works out for you.
Sure hope it holds up for the life of the truck.
Jack
The formula I mentioned in post #658 was actually worked out when we were racing 1/4 mile and trying to get the most rubber on the ground without using slicks. The results were derived from trail and error. Since we were racing on the same tires that we drove to the track on we noticed a big difference in the pressures that we left home with and arrived at the track with. We kept working with the pressures until we came up with that "formula" which put a perfect footprint of tire on the road with no high or low spots with the footprint after the car had been driven to operating temps. I have been using this for a little over 21 years now and the results have proven themselves on every set of tires that I ever had on any of my vehicles.
As for the tonneau cover, I have the "Tuff Tonno 3" and it is the nicest, slickest Tonneau cover I have ever seen or used....
If someone just blindly fills E-rated tires to their max of 80 psi, they will likely be kissing those tires goodbye much sooner than necessary because they will likely be overinflated for the loading and will wear out in the middle of the tread (rather than the edges).
kcram
Host
Smart Shopper and FWI Message Boards
Upon investigation it appears that the Tire Certification Label -- and Dodge specifically, at least -- is not intended to represent the tires that are installed at the factory.
The Tire Certification Label lists the MINIMUM rim size and tire required for the vehicle as equipped from the factory, as well as the cold tire air pressures for the MINIMUM tire requirements.
It is not intended to indicate that the tires installed at the factory match the Tire Certification Label.
By the way, I did find this information in my 2003 Dakota service manual (page 22-6).
Regards,
Dusty
Is this also true for some of the radial LTs? I know Michelin makes a creature like that and I've wondered if it was really a true LT. Usually "LT" are diagonal bias and "radial," of course are radial ply.
Thanks,
Dusty
I don't think that is quite right. The placard DOES list the tire size as originally installed on the vehicle and the appropriate inflation pressure for that size.
If there is an inaccuracy on the placard, that is grounds for a recall. There's been a recent case where that happened on a certain brand that has had some tire problems.
BTW, I've looked up all the Dodge 3500 duallies for the last 10 years and none of them had inflation pressure as 60 / 35 or 65 /40 or anything in between listed on the placard. The minimum rear inflation was listed as 50 psi and that was for a vehicle with LT235/85R16's. Duallies with LT215/85R16's had a minimum of 60 psi. I can understand the ride issue with an empty bed, but the pressure has to be increased BEFORE some load is put in. I'm sure that thsi isn't always the case. It is safer to have overinflated inflated tires, rather than overloaded ones.
Besides, there is more to choosing an inflation pressure than just load. At the very least, it is good engineering practice to have some reserve. I have been advocating 10% minimum and would prefer 15%.
Also LT metric tires can come in bias, bias belted and radial. The rules apply regardless of the type.
Hope this helps.
Regarding the tire certification label, I think what is adding to the confusion is the ambiguiousness of the way the label reads.
Actually, the label in question is technically known as the Vehicle Safety Certification Label. The label is intended to list the minimum tire size and cold inflation pressures based on the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). Thus, it is only stating the minimum tire size and pressure for the GAWR that has been specified.
The manufacture may install a larger size (higher load capacity) tire, and if they're not changing the GAWR the minimum size tire is what is listed on the label. If you look at any Dodge factory service manual this is explained in the Introduction section.
Best regards,
Dusty
I agree for the most part, capri, and I do air up if I know I'm going to be carrying something heavy. Ironically, I'm running Michelin LTX M/S Commercial 215s, and after almost 30K miles in 21 months, the 4 rear tires look brand new at 35-40psi all this time - even the sipes are still there. Could easily go another 50K.
Here's the tire chart I like to use:
http://www.trucktires.com/zip/Light_Truck_Tables.ZIP
That's three PDFs zipped together - the ones named "page 81" and "page 82" cover most of the LT-metric tires used on current pickups, including Dodge's new LT235/80R17E. These are posted by Bridgestone, and cross-ref the axle load to the psi of the tire that will support that load. With me and a full load of fuel and fluids, my 3500 comes in around 7000 pounds, with about a 4200/2800 axle split. That means the rear tires are supporting just 700 pounds each. At 35 psi, the tire is safely capable of 1390 - almost double. 50 psi is 1765 pounds per tire, which would have the rear of the truck bouncing all over the interstate when empty.
kcram
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Oddly, this conversation came up earlier in the week involving a 2000 GMC Sierra.
Regards,
Dusty
Bests,
Dusty
kcram
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Post # 658 by Fangster has me concerned. The idea of using pressure buildup as an indicator is a good one. However, the conditions used to generate the pressure buildup ought to be worst case, if we are discussing setting up a road vehicle. Things such as vehicle speed, ambient temperature, vehicle load, etc. are all going to affect the answer you get. I use this pressure buildup as an indicator that there is something wrong, rather than an indicator of what is right. Plus I know that different tire manufacturers have different pressure buildups, because the operating temperatures are slightly different. So it's hard to be precise.
The load tables are but one tool in trying to determine the proper air pressure. The tables highlighted are straight out of The Tire and Rim Association Yearbook, but unfortunately, there are some pages missing - ones that deal with more subtle issues. For example, non speed rated LT tires are supposed to be inflated to 10 psi more if the operating speed is 66 to 75 mph. I assume that all of Bridgestone's LT metrics are speed rated, since they didn't note this.
Anyway, I prefer that folks follow the placard settings, and deviate from them very cautiously, recognizing there is a lot of information needed to decide the proper inflation pressure, and there is a lot at stake - specifically Safety. I would hate it if someone were to be hurt (or worse) if a tire failed because of something they did without having the full info available.
Hope this helps.
As an aside I've read comments about the "ugly" interiors on the RAMs. Such things are a matter of subjective taste of course, but golly, they look pretty good to me. I recently had the opportunity to drive an '04 F150. Although I thought the interior was nicely done, I also thought it was just a little odd looking. To me the RAM seems to have understated class, smooth flowing transitions and no glitzy eye-disturbing forms.
Regards,
Dusty
I plan on getting a 2005 Ram 3500, and although the LT235/80R17E will use even less psi for the weight normally carried, I'll prbably air them up a little for two reasons:
- the Goodyear Wrangler GS/A is not a commercial-duty tire and doesn't have the reinforced construction to handle lower psi consistently
- I plan on using Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks that can tailor the ride
Both the Bridges and the Miches have seen their share of impact that would have shredded a lesser model - tire carcasses on the interstate at 65mph, glass bottles in the street, curb abrasions where circumtances forced me to scrub the outside right tire at a corner - not even a cut, let alone a puncture.
kcram
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If you do, I'm curious about how the ride and handling was perceived after the switch.
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
kcram
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At 71k miles when hill climbing on highway engine would knock violently, lose power and check engine light would flash. Easing up on gas and engine operation would return to normal.
Dealer diagnosised bad engine seal that was allowing motor oil to enter in to fuel injection system. $800 later all was okay except my wallet.
The truck has stalled on me many times usually idling in gear. After long trips if I park it on anyless than level ground tranny won't engage on the first AM attempt and then clunks hard into gear.
When the battery died after jump starting it engine refuses to idle without giving the motor lots of gas pedal making for some interesting parking and traffic maneuvers!!
I have owned 8 others vehicles, putting 100k to 185k miles on each and never had the number of problems this vehicle has had. All of them maintained to the book.
So I am shopping for a new full size truck. Imagine my surprise to discover ONLY Dodge's full size has seatbelts/seating for 6. That's right 3/4 ton Toyota, GM, Ford, Nissan only seat 5. Now how stupid is it to drive a vehiicle of this size and not have any more passenger capacity than a Civic!!!?
Wish me better luck with my new Dodge. They claim quality is up but if Mercedes quality slide is any indication I am doubtful
Two questions. Does this truck have the 360 motor?
Have you ever changed the transmission filter and fluid?
Best regards,
Dusty
Dodge Hemi rated third after two BMW motors..............
that's the old list. here is this year's list...and yes the hemi is again one of the 10 best...as is the new cummins 600.
http://waw.wardsauto.com/ar/auto_decade_best_2/index.htm
How'd I get out-of-date?
Or, maybe I am out-of-date. At least my kids think so. Most of my favorite actors and actresses are dead, and on my top ten list of favorite movies there's only two that are in color.
How's the weather up in Idaho? How's your SuperCrew running?
Dusty
IDAHO...where did that come from? have only been there on vacation...
south dakota is currently home and the king ranch is running just fine thank you...
Glad to hear everything is fine. Hope your holidays were restful.
Regards,
Dusty
If anybody in here wants to put things in perspective, look at the 2002 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC bulletins. Much worse, both in number and in severity. Twenty-two for automatic transmission alone (to RAMs two PCM flashes), many very serious.
Ford F-150 is better numerically, but I wouldn't want my 4x4 transfer case to engage all by itself at 60 MPH.
My Ram 3500 is a six-speed manual with a bench seat in the front and I could fit six. It wouldn't be extremely comfortable for the center front passenger because of the shifter/console, but could work in a pinch.