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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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The tranny mech said he found nothing unusual in the pan or filter, everything looked really good.
Truck seems better, its still harsh shifting, but not as bad as it was and could just be the truck. The slipping seems to be gone. Time will tell I guess. The general manager of the body shop told me to let him know if there are any more problems and they will take it from there.
Hopefully we dodged (no pun intended) the bullet and the truck will be just fine.
On another note......got 13.2 mpg through the hills with it on the way home, best ever. Thought that was awesome mileage since I've yet to see over 17 mpg hwy with my V6 Explorer.
Gotta love a story with a happy ending. Good luck!
Sounds like the gears and TC survived the DexMerc... As they get used to the proper lube, they'll smooth out a bit.
Jolie, I'll keep my fingers croased for ya
kcram
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My somewhat cob-webbed and fragile memory seems to be telling me that in heavy duty versions of Fords and GMs the automatics shift with a "crispness" lacking in the 1/2-ton series. I guess a fellow RAM 3500 owner could give you a better idea if you can find one to test drive yours.
On "RE" series there is a "throttle valve" cable (formerly known as the modulator valve cable) that can cause abrupt shifts if out of adjustment. They are easy to adjust.
Since Dexron was used for a period of time it is possible that the kickdown band (or front band) is out of adjustment from being incorrectly lubricated, or the kickdown band accumulator is stuck closed from excessively dirty ATF. On Chryslers the kickdown band adjustment can be performed from outside the transmission case and is relatively easy to access. I've seen an experienced transmission tech. do one in five minutes on a lift. A inch-pound torque wrench is required.
By the way, I hope they got all of that Dexron out for you.
Best regards,
Dusty
If I had driven and/or ridden in the truck prior to this I would know what was normal, but unfortunatly during its steering gear box problem time I avoided the truck like the plague.
I haven't had a chance to ask my husband what he thought, he drove it to work this morning. They have been on a hazmat emergency all day, so his time to talk is very short.
BTW, don't pour hydrochloric acid down the drain, makes for a not so nice mess.
The fluid flow problem was resolved in a number of ways, including a significant increase to flow rate in the '98 model year via a major upgrade. The problem was exacerbated by operation in overdrive in extremely cold temperatures. The half-ton 360 V8 models in 4x4 where the most susceptible because these where used a lot for snowplowing. Also, many people used overdrive during heavy loads when they should not have. Chrysler now defeatures entry into overdrive until the transmission reaches a certain temperature, and PCM reprogramming allows earlier downshifts and torque converter unlock to prevent fluid flow problems at low RPMs.
The shift solenoids were probably even more the problem. Intermittent operation or complete failure was due to the solenoid core becoming magnetized over time causing the device to become frozen in one position. Solenoid packs have new ceramic core solenoids that won't magnetize. The electrical wiring to the solenoid pack was not well protected on earlier models and they were prone to developing bad connections. This has been fixed, too.
Emale has included a link to a site that contends that the 47RE is lacking in lubrication to the rear thrust washer. This may in fact be true. However, a polling of the transmission technicians around here seems to indicate that this transmission is very robust. In addition, this may only be applicable to the 47RE diesel version. My sources indicate that with the gas models the 47RE enjoys long and trouble free life.
The new 545RFE transmission used on the RAM with the 4.7 and Hemi motors has a reputation for being almost indestructable. Complete failures are extremely rare and complaints are very few.
Anecdotal reports from third parties (I know a guy who knows a guy who had a Dodge.....) are often based on incorrect, inaccurate, or completely false information. Having a Ford or Chevy guy meanmouth Dodge transmissions may be an excercise in prurient self-fulfillment.
My advice to you is to check out your local transmission shops for a month or two and take notice of what you see coming in for transmission work. I think you will be very surprised!!!
Best regards,
In VSP's case his vintage 360cid 4x4 is probably a 46RE, the 47RE's littler brother. These usually have an in-line anti-drain back valve in the cooling return line. The purpose is to prevent transmission fluid from siphoning out of the torque converter after the vehicle has been shut down. In colder weather with the cooling down of the contracting ATF overnight, the torque converter can be partially drained. On restart, the fluid being harder to pump because of its temperature, the torque converter is not completely full when the driver places the transmission into gear.
At vehicle launch with an absence of the correct amount of fluid the torque converter is still filling causing a pressure drop in the clutches. This causes premature wear of the facings and loads up the fluid with clutch facing material. This material then begins to clog the anti-drain back valve. This can cause overheating of the transmission.
Some independent transmission repair facilities will remove this valve at rebuild. While this will probably prevent a repeat occurence in the same manner, cold weather will still cause siphoning of the torque converter and the comensurate clutch wear.
Although it can cause a partial to full blockage of fluid flow when the fluid is dirty, this valve should be maintained in the system. If the Chrysler service interval is followed neither a blocked anti-drain back valve or dirty fluid should be a problem. If the maintenance history of the vehicle is unknown, I would advise a complete flush of the ATF, a new transmission filter, and a anti-drain back valve replacement.
Best regards,
Dusty
edmunds will not allow that link i posted and thus deleted the post...and the link was about the 48RE and not the 47RE. if anyone wants to see the link just email me...
as per the 45RFE...i understand it has 727/a5xx mechanicals and a604 electronics/controls. and like dusty said is seems to be a hearty unit...there has to be some out there with tons o miles since it's been out since late '98.
Unless a body shop puts the wrong fluid in. ;-) Sorry, couldn't resist. We will be towing a big trailer tomorrow with the Dodge, so should give us a good idea if something is wrong or not.
On another note, the guy who did this to our truck was fired from the body shop on Monday.
The valves are usually black in color (some are a carmel or grey color) and are located near the cooling tank in the radiator. They are not difficult to replace.
The valve allows fluid to flow in one direction only so you need to be sure that it is installed correctly. the factory versions are marked for flow direction. I would recommend flushing and filter change before replacing the valve.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Continued good luck.
Bests,
Dusty
On another note, speaking of paying for repairs. We had our Chevy's t-case repaired in October, the shift fork had broken. Well, its back to the same symptoms and the repair shop swears that's not what's wrong. They took the t-case out of the truck along with the rear driveline, when we declined the repairs they put the stuff in the bed of the truck for us to come pick up. Anyway, they are saying its the planetary and front case half that are causing the problems. FRUSTRATING to say the least. The truck was driveable when it got there, its not now. I'll be glad when that truck is gone, its nearly ruined us financially.
Most engine makers specify oil capacity with a new filter. The oil filter can represent up to a 1/2 quart or more of oil. I would be surprised if it were any different for the Hemi.
However, until you can resolve this issue it is far better to be low one quart than to be high one quart.
Let us know how this is resolved.
Best regards,
Dusty
kcram
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I think you'll find that all Chrysler automatics pump fluid in park. If you look at a hydraulic schematic of the 47RE you'll see that the only difference between park and neutral is that the parking sprag is engaged in park. The specification for line pressures are the same as well.
In neutral or park line pressure is maintained at the regulator, manual, throttle, and boost valves. Of course, in neutral or park they are all closed and no fluid is moving through most of the valve body and shift circuits.
If line pressure and fluid movement wasn't maintained during park or neutral, the vanes in the torque converter -- which is attached to the engine and rotating -- would produce bubbles through cavitation. This, of course, would be detrimental to the operation of the transmission in a number of ways.
Best regards,
Dusty
You are correct about the line pressure, and I should clarify/correct my statement. The REs have little issue when hooked to gasoline engines. The 47 hooked to a Cummins was always an exercise in "reaching the limits". Right through the beginning of the 2003s, the Cummins was either fully detuned (12 valve) or electronically detuned (24 valve) because the trans was at its torque limit. The trans was physically the same as what was used with the V10, but the programming of the PCM was definitely different. Idling in Neutral released strain in the driveline and prevented a lot of cold-weather "slamming" from Park until the fluid was at operating temp. I can tell you from 8 winters that whether hill or level, the 47RE is not very happy with full-limit torque right out of the gate, and while the trans cooler is a big help in summer, it doesn't get the trans fluid up to temp in the winter quickly at all unless you're pulling a small building.
Heck, there were days I'd shift from Park to 1st with the p-brake set to really get the fluid going.
Supposedly, the higher torque capacity of the 48RE has made this a non-issue in Cummins Rams - my 2005 should arrive December 04/January 05, so I'll be able to tell right away...
Sometimes I try to keep excessive tech out of my posts and use more understandable terms, and it leads to confusion - my bad
kcram
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In Chrysler parlance the 47RE should be rated at around 700 lbs. ft. of torque. I would think that's enough for the detuned versions of the Cummins. However, the margin probably isn't there, although Ford and GM diesel auto trannys are just about the same for torque rating. I'm guessing that the newest Cummins is rated at or near 675 lbs. ft.
Bests,
Dusty
Im a long time edmunds TH member but rarely read the Pickups threads, so I would really appreciate any help you might offer. My cousin is interested in buying the above, a 2003 4.7L 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 with 24,000 miles. The asking price is $21,000. I am not sure about features or model specifics, but from what I've read, it sounds like your typical SLT, nothing fancy.
For anyone who has the time, what are the problem areas that should be paid particular attention to with this truck?
It is being sold by a private owner who is looking for something smaller and less consumptive of fuel. If this car carried Chryslers extended powertrain warranty as a new vehicle, does that transfer to subsequent owners?
I know the Dakota is due for a redesign... but since my cousin really only requires a 6ft bed and "better than jump seats", would a discounted but reasonably priced new Dakota be a better choice?
Thanks very much. If people here prefer to email me directly, thats fine too, my addy is in my profile.
~alpha
The 48RE is eating the 600 lb-ft of the new Cummins engine with no reported issues.
kcram
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BTW.. my 03 Ram has 18K on it now. No problems at all.. It's still the best new vehical I've ever owned... I also have a 03 Merc Sable... I like it, but the new 300C looks sweet!!!..
P.S. Anyone that gets the 5.7 in the 2500, make sure you get the 4.10 rear end...
Emale sent me a link to a web site of a transmission tech. who reports seeing the output shaft thrust washers wearing, I guess prematurely, from lack of lubrication on diesel 48REs. I inquired around here and either there isn't miles enough on any diesels or its just not happening. In fact our local guy said he hasn't touched a RAM of any type in about four months, and the ones he usually sees are pre-'98s. He did say that he's seen that type of problem on Chrysler automatics, but they usually are extremely high miles or never maintained transmissions.
Bests,
Dusty
i sent you that link...
We went last week in what was the worst, deepest, softest sand I have had to drive in. It seems that my engine was really working hard in 4wd high. I even had to go into 4 low a couple times and I've never had to do that. What is curious though is that one time I had the pedal nearly floored in 4 high and the tires weren't even spinning. I dropped into 4 low and got moving again. Maybe I'm just not used to this truck, but I expected this powerful diesel engine to not work so hard, or at least to spin tires in 4 high in loose sand. Also, can anyone advise me on when or whether to put the drive select in L2 or L1 while in 4 high, or just to drop into 4 low when the going gets tough?
The other thing I've noticed is that according to the trip computer the mpg have dropped off since purchase. Our initial hwy trips were around 17-18 mpg and now I'm running 14-15, and even less in city. We only have 9000 miles so it's still practically new. Is this what other folks average?
I would really appreciate any comments.
With regard to the fuel consumption, your experience is quite normal with a newly-purchased vehicle. It is possible that this is the result of post delivery syndrome Many if not most people are very easy on a vehicle immediately after delivery. It's a normal human response to machinery, especially by males. However, as you get accustomed to driving your pace picks up and you begin a more normal (for you) driving habit. What you may be seeing is the difference in that easy driving right after you got the truck, to a more moderate or faster-paced driving.
As to the 4WD in sand experience, I don't know if I can give any explanation off the top of my head. Since you stated that this experience was in sand that "was the worst, deepest, softest sand I have had to drive in," you would need something to compare this to in order to render an opinion. It's possible that other vehicles would have had the same or similiar experience.
I've been in mud and snow with a 4WD, but never any sand worth mentioning. Unlike snow or even mud, the higher friction coefficiency and increased loading weight would, I expect, make a fairly big difference.
I once witnessed a four-wheel drive F600 burn out a clutch in about ten minutes while trying to extract itself. This truck had sat for four weeks in mud near up to the axles. Of course, after four weeks the mud had dried and this truck was embedded. I watched as the driver at full throttle try to break the tires loose. Surprisingly, it took a dozen or so "hole-shot" clutch dumps before we saw one tire spin. The engine stalled repeatedly. By the time the humans realized that they'd have to do a little digging, the clutch was history.
Maybe some much more experienced person that I will make a comment on your sand experience.
Best regards,
Dusty
John
I am thinking about buying a new Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel with an auto trans. I have bben reading the msg board. One guysaid he was going to buy a 2005 yr mdl instead of a 2004. Is there anything anyone can warn me of about buying a new truck? 2004 or 2005? Any trouble eith the new auto trans? Thank you for any help - cephas
The 4.7 uses coil-on-plug, meaning that each spark plug has its own coil. This is easily removed by removing one bolt. Once the coil is out of the way the spark plug is removed in the conventional manner. You will need a deep socket and extention since the plugs are recessed into the cylinder head.
I'm not sure about the RAM version, but on the Dakota you will need to remove the air intake. Marmon clamps are used so removal is very easy. You will likely find it necessary to loosen and move some cooling lines that run across the top of the engine. Use care to avoid breaking the plastic snaps that hold these onto the throttle body.
Best regards,
Dusty
Here is my only complaint so far. I've gotten stuck twice. Both times i was on wet grassy conditions. The tires were sunk down only 2-4 inchs. The rear wheels just kept spinning and couldnt move in either direction. I do not have positive traction and its a two wheel drive. But I've owned several vehicles, trucks cars etc that I've never had this kind of problem with. In fact i traded in a '99 cummins and never had this kind of problem. Do yo think its caused by the higher torque/Hp that these trucks are putting out now days. Also i suspect most of the weight is in the front on these heavy diesels. It just seems like an odd problem I've never had in the past. I'm almost afraid to pull off to the side of the road if it's been raining. Any thoughts on my problem would be apprectiated.
Jack
I assume that traction in all other conditions seem normal, so I think this is a case of collective effects. As you noted a diesel has considerable low-end torque and is much more front-end heavier that the eqivalent gas version. I can see were it would be harder to modulate the engagement power to the wheels. There is probably a negative influence from the tires as well, although tire pressure can have an effect too.
My Dakota 2WD with limited slip goes through snow like a 4WD with my 650 lb. ATV on the back. In fact, last year I climbed an ice covered road that a 4WD could not make.
Best regards,
Dusty