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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 94_altima94_altima Member Posts: 2
    Would the oil leak if a small hole was drilled into the distributor?

    Would replacing the o-ring on the distributor help?
  • smallcar1smallcar1 Member Posts: 76
    The mechanic said that when the cap and rotor were off and the distributor was out of the car he did not see any oil. He said the front o-ring is very simple to change but mine was OK. He said to change the rear o-ring is so much labor that they use a rebuilt distributor. Hhe did not actually see the cam position sensor inside the distributor as he said it is very labor intensive to remove enough parts to see that area in the distributor. He said it is possible that the electronics in the distributor went bad or the ignition coil has a problem although it tested OK. He recommends waiting until the problem gets worse to diagnose it as changing the distributor could be a waste of money if it is not the problem. He thinks he would have seen oil when the cap and rotor were taken off if the o-ring was bad. I don't want to get stuck somewhere though.
  • danny44danny44 Member Posts: 14
    edited March 2010
    >>> Car stalled on the hwy tonight with no warning in while rolling traffic without my foot on the gas but restarted with no problem.

    It seems your Altima stalled at idle (without my foot on the gas), then intake air leak is one of possible cause. The problem was due to a bad intake manifold gasket. If the problem was due to a bad distributor, then the car would stall at random and won't restart with no problem. Did check engine light come on? Ask that he identify any computer codes even if it didn't.

    read http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Altima/2001/engine/index.shtml

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef06fa1/195!keywords=allin%3Amsgte- - - - - - - xt%20limit%3A.ef06fa1%20intake%201996#MSG195
  • danny44danny44 Member Posts: 14
    edited March 2010
    With a cold engine take a can of brake clean and start the engine. As it begins to warm up spray the brake clean around the intake manifold where it bolts to the head. Any sudden rise in RPM is an indication that the manifold gasket needs replacement.Be carefull not to spray around the exhaust manifold as you could cause a fire.If indeed it needs replacement shop around for the best possible price as this is not an easy job.

    read http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1997&make=Nissan&model=A- ltima
  • danny44danny44 Member Posts: 14
    edited March 2010
    >>He recommends waiting until the problem gets worse to diagnose it as changing the distributor could be a waste of money if it is not the problem >>

    I agree, read http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Altima/1997/engine/runs_rough_until_warmed_u- p.shtml

    Sounds very similar to your 1996 Altima, perhaps yours is 1997 model
  • danny44danny44 Member Posts: 14
    edited March 2010
    Did the "check engine light" come on? If yes, ask that he reads the diagnostic code stored in the on-board computer. Most likely, it is p0300 random multiple cylinder misfire detected
  • smallcar1smallcar1 Member Posts: 76
    Thanks. The check engine light did not come on and there were no codes stored in the computer either time. My car does not run rough on start up, it never runs rough. It does vibrate some at lights but has done that since 37K when I got it. The idle speed at lights has always sometimes dropped very slightly but never below 700 rpms and ususally stays at 750.

    I know the '01 has the same engine as the '96 (manufacture date of the car ws 1/96)but I don't know if the manifold was the same. The car has been very reliable unti now but I guess it is time to get rid of it.
  • loroloro Member Posts: 1
    hello all past months randomly my car (2000 altima se) it didnt start it looks like
    a low battery i wait for one hour or so and it starts w/out problem.
    i cleaned the connections and still the same, is ok for 2 or 3 weeks and it does it again

    anyone have advice to fix this problem
    thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Turn the headlights & the dome light on, then try to start the car, watching the lights to see if they dim. Does your engine turn slowly or slow down while cranking?
    If the lights dim very much, you have voltage drop, that can be caused by bad connections or bad battery. The next step is to check the voltage directly across the battery posts, using a volt meter or light bulb tester while having someone crank the engine. Low voltage measured from battery post to battery post (9 volts or less) means the battery is weak and should be tested. If the voltage is good at the battery posts (9.5V or higher while cranking the engine) you may have voltage drop in the connections or wiring. Check all connections at the battery, starter and everything in between.
    If you don't have any voltage drop problem at the battery or wiring, it could be a problem in the starter. Connect a test light or volt meter at the starter, one lead to the starter motor terminal and the other lead to the starter case (be sure the starter is bolted tight and well grounded). Keep away from fans and moving parts and read the volts or watch the light as an assistant cranks the engine. The volts should stay at 9 volts or above. Good volts with poor cranking would indicate a problem with the Starter/Solenoid assembly.
    Good Luck
    E.D.
  • vgvgvgvg Member Posts: 12
    My brand new 2010 Altima (4 days old) has a loose metal strip of some kind hanging underneath it. I spotted it from a distance and went to look what was hanging there. It is under the body, nearer the passenger side, easy enough to reach from just behind the passenger door, squatting next to the car.
    This stip is still attached, somewhat flexible, under 1/2" wide and the hanging part is about 3" long. One side is serrated, like, zigzagged, the other side straight. I can't tell what the rest of it is attached to. I'm at work in dress clothes and can't look too much further.
    Any ideas what this might be? I took the car for it's first car wash this morning and had underbody spray with it.
  • vgvgvgvg Member Posts: 12
    My husband says it is a rubber piece, looks like it was glued up to the floorboard. The zig zag is actually a tear. What's up with that????
  • lorjosclorjosc Member Posts: 2
    There is a class action lawsuit that is in the beginning stages go here to sign up
    http://www.fazmiclaw.com/nissanoil/
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    As far as I know, the altima does not have a timing chain.
  • karolpl7karolpl7 Member Posts: 40
    I have a Nissan Altima Hybrid 2008 model and just received an offer to update GPS software for $99. Usuall price is $200 and sometimes Nissan would send coupons for $20-$30, but this is 50% off so best deal yet.

    Did anyone have experience with the update? Is it worth it or are there any updates to the way GPS operates?

    Thanx!

    K
  • gollsgolls Member Posts: 21
    This appears to be a common problem with 2002 Nissan Altima - the catalytic converter goes bad, the head gasket blows, the engine starts burning oil like mad and finally it needs engine replacement. My car has all of these problems. According to Kelly Blue Book, the private-party value of this car in good condition is $6k. The dealer is asking me for roughly $4k to replace the engine and the catalytic converter. My car has less than 80k miles and it is less than 8 years old, but the dealer is refusing to replace the cat and the engine under warranty because I drove the car with a known blown head gasket problem for a couple of months. So, I am not sure what to do now. Should I pour 4 grand into this ? My worry is that there may be other problems that surface after I put so much money into it. Would I be better off donating the car/selling it off as is and buying another used one (maybe a Hyundai or a Kia which has a 10 year/100k miles warranty)? I recently bought a new Toyota Sienna and I only need a second car for commute to work (8 miles each way). Looking forward to some good advice. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Tough call. The problem with major repairs like this is that it becomes difficult to control costs. You have the engine out, pieces all over the floor, and while the estimate was $4K, they call you up and say (perhaps quite honestly) "well, we found a bad____" OR "Look, while we're in there, it's crazy not to replace the ____".

    I don't think $6K is a realistic price if this is a 2.5S model---more like $4500 to $5K in the real world is all your car is worth. So really the car is totalled if you think about it.

    The REAL question you should be asking I think is not about what your car is worth, but:

    "What can I buy for the amount of $$$ I"m going to put into my car?"

    If after $4K you feel you'll end up with a clean, good running car with NO OTHER PROBLEMS (like bad tires, other issues), then I'm thinking you can't buy much on the used car market for $4K.

    But for $6,000 or so, there are some attractive used cars out there.
  • gollsgolls Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for your perspective! I agree that the car can be considered almost totalled. The decision is still tough because at least I know I have taken good care of this car, and there are no other major expenses imminent (tires are in good shape, brakes were replaced recently, shocks/struts replaced recently, AC works fine), but I will have no idea about another used car I buy in the market.
    On the other hand, given the number of problems I have experienced with this car in the last year, I am not confident that the car will be entirely trouble free after $4k. With another used car, may be I can get it thoroughly inspected before buying, or buy a certified used car, or a car still under powertrain warranty and get some peace of mind. Even if the used car costs more than $4k, that car will probably have more residual value when I decide to sell it compared to my Altima, which will not sell that well given its repair history (and also the fact that it has an accident on record). Not sure what to do :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There's no easy or obvious answer here as your situation is a bit of a fence-sitter. I'd just sleep on it and rely on your gut feeling after considering the pros and cons. Keep in mind though, that your car, unfixed, is worth very little to anyone.
  • zero_to_sixtyzero_to_sixty Member Posts: 2
    2002 Altima 3.5SE has a surging alternator, it fluctuates between 12.5 and 13 (amps?), which is apparently a normal range. This was tested at Autozone. Also, the alternator does not come on until engine has been revved past 2000 rpms. Once on, it ebbs and flows causing any lighted object to flicker. Also, when in drive there is a slight lunge forward sensation, which is most notable at or near a complete stop. If put in nuetral, the lunging stops and the idle goes from 700 to 1200 rpms. Otherwise, the car operates normally. At this point it is more annoying then anything else. (The battery light and brake light both stay on until alternator starts. No problems starting the car. No check engine light.)

    A new alternator is $500-600 installed, so I was hoping it might be a sensor or other less expensive fix. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    between 12.5 and 13V is not a normal range at all. That's a toasted alternator.
  • zero_to_sixtyzero_to_sixty Member Posts: 2
    It may have been 13.5 to 14 volts. This was at idle and was at the low range of normal operation, at least according to the Autozone guy. Is this perhaps a voltage regulator problem? If so, is this sensor part of the alternator? I would hate to replace the alternator, only to find out it was actually something else.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you'd have to be sure of the test reading on the alternator in order to make that decision. The regulator is part of the alternator, near as I recall for the Altima.
  • danny44danny44 Member Posts: 14
    so here is the deal: I start out with everything being fine, the battery is hooked up as normal, getting good voltage reading with my multimeter accross the battery posts them selves good reading from neg to neg side engine mount ground and good reading from pos battery side to neg engine mount ground. I go to try to turn it over, power is good, i engage the solenoid (i hear it click) and everything goes dead. absolutlely no power to anything. i go back to the engine compartment with out doing anything to the battery yet check voltage across battery posts=good, neg batt post to neg ground=good, pos batt post to neg ground=bad. i disconnect the neg batt and reconnect and everything is restored, good readings from the three test points i've been using and power is restored to the car, until i try to turn it over again solenoid clicks and BAM dead. i think it might be grounding out someplace in the starting circuit, maybe AT the solenoid? any ideas or hints so i can rule things out or at least verify that the solenoid is the culprit? thanks in advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2010
    When it goes dead, see if your headlights work. If not, you have a bad battery of corroded / loose battery cables. If they do go on after the car is "dead", then you probably have a bad solenoid or a bad starter (dead spot on the armature).

    Keep in mind you are only measuring no-load battery voltage. You aren't testing the battery under load conditions. 8 flashlight batteries would give you the same readings, but couldn't start a car.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    My other half just acquired a 99 Altima that is running good at this time, what problems should we expect in the near future?? It has 112K miles on it. I removed the spark plugs #1 and #2 and they were both very heavily coated in oil. How difficult will it be to put in a plug seal kit?? Will I have to put on a new valve cover gasket too?? I'm still a novice but like the challenge! :surprise: :surprise:
  • chrisp80chrisp80 Member Posts: 1
    have a 1997 altima gxe with front end body damage. was wondering what other years and models could be used to replace hood, headlights, grill, radiator core support. im not sure if 1993-1997 altimas and stanzas are pretty much the same. thanks for any help with this!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Call a junkyard and ask for a price on a "Front End Clip" for your car. The clip includes the fenders, so if you don't need them, ask for parts separately. The junk yard can "cross over" the 1997 parts to other years, and give you parts availability and prices. Call several junk yards to compare parts and prices.
  • benbailey84benbailey84 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 03 altima 2.5s and we are having the same issues. I disassembled the floor console and found this switch. Unfortunately you cant buy just this switch from the dealer. They want you to buy the whole shifter assembly for $370, yeah that's screwed up. all for a simple switch. so i just unhooked the switch and tied off the actual lock until we can afford the whole assembly or i can find just a switch.
  • benbailey84benbailey84 Member Posts: 3
    Yes! i have a 03 altima and sometimes it wont turn over but most of the time it will. after alot of researching i discovered there is a safety switch under the shifter assembly that allows the shifter to move from park ( and to start the car) after bypassing it it starts fine. but the lock doesnt work now. you cant buy just the switch they want you to spend $370 for the whole shifter assembly so if u find somewhere to buy just the switch please let me know... thanks
  • 05altimahelp05altimahelp Member Posts: 1
    my 2005 altima idles fine but when i put it in gear it just boggs down and has no power...HELP!!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You might have a plugged up Catalytic Converter or plugged exhaust. Check the exhaust gas at the tail pipes to see if enough exhaust gas is coming out. If you try to rev the engine and little exhaust gas comes out the tail pipes, you may have a plugged cat or plugged muffler. If this is the case, you can do a test to relieve the exhaust backpressure by either removing the lower oxygen sensor or disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the bottom of the exhaust manifold, whichever is easier for you. It will be noisey for the test, but if the engine starts and revs up, that means you found the problem.

    See messege #75 in the Nissan Altima Engine Failures Forum for more info on diagnosis and repair.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • tomscot2tomscot2 Member Posts: 33
    I cannot figure out how to get to the tail light bulb on my 07 Altima Hybrid? The owners manual says to contact the dealer.

    Thanks for any help.
  • neo_neo_ Member Posts: 14
    I have done ~28K so far. Yesterday, I took the car to the dealership as I was feeling pulsation while applying brakes. I was told that all 4 rotors had got badly rusted and needed replacement. Front brake pads too. It cost me $610 :( I have had this problem before too when they just machined the rotors. I don't think the rotors should get rusted so soon. When I asked, rain and snow were given as the reason. I live in Milwaukee.

    What do you guys think? Is think normal wear and tear? I am mainly concerned about the rotors needing replacement so soon.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the rotors were replaced because they were warped, not rusted. Some surface rust on the rotors of a car in everyday use is not a problem at all, but warpage would cause the pulsing pedal.

    Brake wear depends a lot on how your drive and where you live.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    I have a 2003 2.5s with close to 90K miles. It is going in today for the same. I was quoted about $750 plus tax and the car will be finished tomorrow. I am having the work done by my local mechanic, whom I have used for years on our old Z. If I have had any problem with their work, they have always stood behind what they have done.
  • neo_neo_ Member Posts: 14
    That's the thing, I am a very careful driver. I don't accelerate or brake too hard. That's what's puzzling me even more.

    Are there any Altima owners around Milwaukee with similar problem?? Those who have changed their rotors, at what mileage did you have to do it?
  • roopsterroopster Member Posts: 3
    I took my 2007 Altima 2.5S in for it's yearly inspection, & the station owner/mechanic, who is very reliable in our town said I should have the front brakes done. The car has 45,000k on it, & he said they weren't even that bad. The rear axle was just fine. He replaced the factory pads with ceramics, & turned the rotors. We have bad winters & plenty of hills. Plus, my wife is not very brake friendly. I would venture to say your rotors are warped.
  • dllaserdllaser Member Posts: 4
    After 1.5hrs highway driving, did a pit stop. Car had NO power going forward.
    Eventually got above 15MPH and then car accelerated normally.

    Dealer says this is the 2nd car they have with this problem and are waiting for the CVT Valve Body from Nissan to repair. Said Valve Body unavailable in US.

    Can anyone shed some light on this situation?
  • markm12markm12 Member Posts: 2
    My wife tells me that her A/C starts when she starts the car but then only blows hot air after she starts driving. Took it in, and had Freon recharged and problem still occured. Then noticed that it was the compressor that would start (spinning) when the car starts, cold air blows through the vents in the car and then the compressor stops spinning, blowing hot air. Has anyone experienced this or do you know what could cause it to start and stop? An A/C switch maybe?
  • gailalonggailalong Member Posts: 12
    I am pretty close to purchasing an Altima-new 2010. I read this threated and it has scared me a bit. The problems with the climate control and CVT particularly are of concern. I am a single woman and cannot be without a car or AC especially here in Texas. Am I making a mistake to buy an Altima?

    Secondly, if I do buy one, would I have less problems by not getting the one with convenience plus package-moonroof and dual/digital AC control? Please need advise quickly. Thanks for your help!!
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    Dear Gail: I would be pretty cautious about what you see written by others.I generally check reviews of hotels and restaurants and often the negative stuff is from people who say something like" the pillows are too hard". I have a 2003 altima with around 90,00 miles and haven't experienced many of some of the problems that folks have reported.I just had a brake job all around.Since you may buy a new car, I strongly suggest you get an extended warranty from your insurance company. That way it is less expensive than Nissan. Mine is $250 deductible. You have to buy it when the car is relatively new and there may be a limit of 10 years and 100,000 miles. I enjoy listening to my cd's and radio, so I infrequently use my moon roof. As back up you always have this forum and you can get good pricing information use my moon roof. Since I have no idea how well the 2010 compares with 2003, I am sure you will hear more from many.
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    I have a 02 Altima with ces light. The code reads vent control valve. Any ideas where it is located on it. Thanks. George
  • neo_neo_ Member Posts: 14
    I think you will love your Altima. I have had mine for 3 years now. 2007 2.5 S Convenience Plus Package. First new car and I would gladly buy an Altima again. I don't have climate control, so can't comment on that but I like the CVT. Haven't had any issues with it. Feels smoother than traditional transmission. Good pick up too. The AC is pretty effective. No issues. Like the moonroof. So, all in all a pretty good car.

    I agree with the other poster. Don't go totally by what you see on the forums as it's mostly those who've had issues that post here. It's definitely a good way to get some idea but doesn't always give the full, correct picture.
  • ndiboyndiboy Member Posts: 36
    I think you have made a good choice and I am sure you won't regret it either. When I bought 2.5s 2002 altima at 73,000miles almost 3years ago I thought I was in for trouble after reading all the posts I saw on the web. After 3 years and changing the head gasket, the car has been amazing and I will give in anything to get the 2007-2010 model with the CVT.

    Is there any car in the world that doesnt have a problem? I heard so much about toyota corolla and I bought one for my wife and I was not really impressed. I am still with my altima Ultimate anyday anytime.
    Make up your mind, get one and you will not regret it.
    Chuma.
  • gailalonggailalong Member Posts: 12
    Thank you so much. This makes me feel much better. You are so kind of respond to me.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    no thanks needed. that is what we do here.
  • markm12markm12 Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    My wife tells me that her A/C starts when she starts the car but then only blows hot air after she starts driving. Took it in, and had Freon re-charged and problem still occurred. Then noticed that it was the compressor that would start (spinning) when the car starts, cold air blows through the vents in the car and then the compressor stops spinning, blowing hot air. It's so hot outside and my wife reminds me daily that when she drives to work every day, she is a ball of sweat with or without the windows up or down because of the air starting for a sec, then just blowing hot air, even though it's FULL of Freon. Has anyone experienced this or do you know what could cause it to start and stop? An A/C switch maybe?
  • ridereddesridereddes Member Posts: 4
    Okay. SO, about a month ago, a was in an accident that totaled my 98 explorer. Since i've been looking for something cheap and reliable (for at least 2-3 years) so i can save up. A friend of mine's father-in-law is selling his 97 Altima and they told me about it today and i'm going to see it on tuesday....

    It has some cosmetic damage, supposedly it runs great it was his daily driver, he just purchased a newer car and it has around 175K miles on it.

    I've looked at a few reviews, and most of the people that have these cars love them. Supposedly they run great but are a lil loud which is nothing i'm not used to ( my explorer had a whining rear end) and have a cup holder malfunction, which would just be the end of my world, j/k. They say that they are fairly cheap to maintain....

    What im interested in is WHAT i have to maintain. Please don't be afraid to tell me because im getting it for disgustingly cheap price, so i'm preparing to have to do SOME repairs. The "time-fer's" i call them. time fer a new alternator, time fer a new rear end, ( im used to it, i had a ford. ) AT what mileage does it actually blow up? you know?
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    If it is anything like my 2002 the answer is yes. I have 105,000 miles on my Altima and only maintence besides oil chgs has been brakes. One of the best vehicles I have ever owned.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited August 2010
    At those high miles, I personally would just do a standard safety check (brakes, tires, etc), oil & filter, fuel filter, check your belts and hoses, and if the coolant or brake fluid are very dirty, flush and replace those. Couple hunnert bucks, tops.

    I wouldn't sink any real money into this car, as it is, statistically, at the end of its life---so anything could go at any time. This is not to disparage the car in any way--it's just at the end of a modern car's natural predicted lifespan.

    Can a 80 year old man play tennis? Sure, some can. Would you be surprised if he collapsed on the court? Probably not. So the same applies here IMO. Keep your expectations realistic.
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