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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • jonky5jonky5 Posts: 2
    2003 Altima. Brake lights are out. Checked all fuses. Changed brake light switch. I know the switch is good and sending power. Tail lights work fine, just NO brake lights at all. I'm not a mechanic, so take it easy on me. This is my daughter's car who drives 2 hours to college every week. I really need to get it back on the road ASAP. Hoping to avoid the cost of sending it to the Nissan garage.
  • What up guys, i'm a newbie so please bare with me... I have 2003 Altima 2.5L and the problem is only once the engine/coolant warms up (after 15-20 min. of driving) there's a loud buzzing or flapping noise (like a baseball card in electric spokes on a bike tire) coming from the engine when i accelerate, but once i come to a stop it goes away and comes back when i accelerate again (also the acceleration is slower/tougher)?? I've searched everywhere online for what it could be to no avail...I just changed the knock sensor and the PCV valve but nothing changed ...what could it be??! any help would be greatly appreciated!!!





  • multi function switch in steering colum,the brake lights and turn signal wiring runs thru it,advance has the and it nat hard to change.
  • Hi everyone ..

    I am new to the boards .My name is Bill and I have a 2006 Altima that I am sure I have a broken motor mount in it .Can anyone give me an idea of how difficult this is to fix ? Or better yet would it be covered under Warranty as I am the 7 year 100000 mile warranty on it .And if all else fail any idea on how much it should cost to have it repaired at the dealership ? Dont get me wrong ...I dont mind doing it myself but I dont want to get into something way over my head or waste my time if the warranty will cover it . Thank you everyone for any input you can provide !
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    Well we don't know if you have a 4 or 6 cylinder and which mount it is, but generally the "book" seems to show about 1 hour's labor for each mount so it can't be too hard. Unfortunately my database doesn't show how to do it.

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  • lt2012lt2012 Posts: 1
    I bought a new 2012 Altima in Dec '11 and have had a vibration from day one. I believed the sales guy when he said it was a tire pressure issue that could be fixed. They put a new set of tires on but they will not stay balanced!! The master tech basically accused me of removing the wheel weights! These tires have been balanced 9 times in 5,000 miles, but according to Nissan there is no problem. The vibration goes away for a week or so after balancing, then starts back. The weights are not coming off, just go out of balance. Anyone else have a similar issue?
  • My Nissan Altima was having a problem staying above 20 mph on my way to work(engine seemed bogged down). I got my car to a CarX. The technician there told me that my upstream catalytic convertor got extremely hot and basically screwed up my entire exhaust system. CarX wanted to replace the entire system for X amount of dollars. I turned down there service and drove the car home. The technician removed the upper O2 sensor on the upstream cat. and said the car should be able to make it home. I got the car home to do the repairs myself. I first checked the dip stick and the motor was bone dry. I added about 4 quarts of oil to the motor. I put the old O2 sensor back in and took the car for another test drive. The engine seems to be running ok but there is a moderate amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Do you have any suggestions?
  • babybeck1babybeck1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 altima and have taken to the dealership for the same problem since we had it. When it is cold outside, I can't start the car up ahead of time cause the air blows out cold?? Once you ride around it will heat up but if you stop at a light it will go back cold again.
    Now here a month ago, I was just driving down the interstate and the air starts blowing full blast? The climate control knob seems as it is stripped??

    Frustrating I know, I guess it could be something worst perhaps like a transmission or bad engine?? Still totally blows, cause the first problem has yet to be fixed....:((
  • babybeck1babybeck1 Posts: 3
    I have a pretty similiar issue as well?? since I have had the vehicle, the radio want work if I turn on the rear defrost? The dealership basically told me not to use the rear defrost....go figure???
  • babybeck1babybeck1 Posts: 3
    Di you ever figure out what was wrong?? My car just did the same thing within the past couple of months?? Air stays on Full blast while car is running:((
  • bobwilkinson2bobwilkinson2 Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    I found myself frustrated with this annoying and potentially dangerous issue on my wife's car, but I couldn't find that part anywhere on the internet either, unless I wanted to spend a lot to replace the entire visor. Taking matters into my own hands, I have come up with a home-made solution. I just did this on my own and it works! (see photo) If yours broke in the same manner that mine did, leaving the back portion of the sleeve in place (see photo), you can do this to yours. First, you're going to need a few simple tools:

    a) phillips screw driver
    b) approx 1/16" diameter metal wire (I used picture-hanging wire)
    c) exact-o knife / razor blade
    d) needle-nose pliers
    e) electric drill w/ approx 1/16" drill bit

    Nissan Altima Sun Visor Fix Photo

    I know it's kind of rigged, but if you're handy, you should be able to look at the picture and see what I did. Also, here's a shot an explaining the process: The idea is to re-join the bracket and the visor post using two wires, without the post slipping out of the broken bracket, so you need to have some of the part of the bracket that surrounds the post in-tact for this to work. After removing the bracket, I drilled a hole through the two little flanges behind the broken part of the bracket to hold the lower wire in place. I wrapped two 3" pieces of wire around the bracket, one on top, just under the head of the post, and one about 1/2" under that. Then, marked where the wires were touching the plastic and temporarily removed the wires. At those marks, using an exacto, I made small notches / grooves, about 1/2 of the diameter of the wire deep, where the wire touches the bracket and around the post, to help keep the wire from slipping up or down. The upper wire rests just under the "head"
    of the post, so it already has a nice little place to grab. Then, wrap the wires around again, seating them into your notches and tighten with the pliers about three rotations or when it feels really tight. Then, cut off any excess wire, as there is not a lot of room for these when you go to install. Your assembly should resemble mine when finished. this is ready for installation, just screw it back in place and have a great day!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    Hi Bob, and welcome to the forums!
    Thanks for taking the time to write out such detailed instructions, and for providing a photo. I know you responded to a post from 2007, but I can't tell you how many times people come across info like yours, years later, and find just the fix they were looking for.


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  • snuff8snuff8 Posts: 2
    I bought a 2012 Nissan Altima 2.5S Coupe (auto transmission) and I've had it for about a little more than a week now. Since I'm not really familiar with the CVT transmission and I'd never heard of it prior to buying the car, I was hoping to get a second opinion from this forum. I've been noticing that the arrow on the Tachometer behaves differently than my previous car or maybe it's just me (given that I'm not an expert on cars). When I accelarated, it seemed to me that the transmission was struggling a little between shifts and the RPMs were not corresponding with the miles. One thing that really throws me off is that when I drive at 65mph the tachometer drops down to between 1000-2000 rpm. Being used to my previous car, I though that it's a little unusual for the arrow to drop down so low. I brought the car to the Nissan Service Shop and the guys over there told me that this is because of the CVT transmission. They said that (and I quote) , "with the CVT transmission you almost can't feel the shifts between gears" and that "it's normal for it to do that". My question is is this true and how does this CVT transmission work exactly? If anyone has an answer to this question, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks guys! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    Here's a video that demonstrates a simple CVT on a motorscooter--it's not quite the same as your car but the principle is the same.

    From what you describe, the behavior is normal because there isn't an abrupt gear change.

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  • eenglish99eenglish99 Posts: 25
    I'm another casualty of the 2005 Altima rust through with the floor boards.
    Car has 85,000 miles, has been garaged since new and is perfect condition except for rusting floor boards. I had this problem with a 15 year old high mileage Corolla but never expected it with a 7 year old, low mileage, garaged vehicle. I even consciously rinse out the undercarriage whenever washing and especially in the spring to rinse out salt.
    Dealer pointed out the problem with the last oil change and inspection and said it was probably caused by rocks chipping the metal. BULL.
    From reading some forums it seems that this is a common problem but that that some few people have had some success with the dealers covering this. I'm not encouraged but will give it a try then call Nissan Customer Affairs (good luck) then file a complaint with the many others on NHTSB web site:
    I would recommend anyone with the same problem to file a complaint. Only the NHTSB can order a recall/fix.
  • snuff8snuff8 Posts: 2
    Thank you very much! :)
  • eenglish99eenglish99 Posts: 25
    edited July 2012
    There have been some who have speculated that this is a moisture on the inside problem with salt and water from the winter or backed up air conditioner hose. Mine has rubber floor mats and has never had a drop of water on the inside and the AC pipe is clear. I pulled up the passenger side mat and floor boards were gone. There is a double wall floor board and the hole was in the bottom layer but it was easy to poke through all the way. It appears that the inside is not welded but is attached with some kind of rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top. I suspect that this is the basic cause of the problem since once I cut out the rusted area (below this stick on goop) the rest of the floor boards seemed solid. The dealer wanted $550 to fix it one side so I did it myself. It's not too bad a DIY project.
    (1) Cut out the bad area with a sawsall. It was about 18 in by 10 in. The surrounding are seemed solid
    (2) Fit in a 12x18 piece of sheet metal that I got at Home Depot
    (3) Attach with steel pop rivets.
    (4) Seal the inside with silicon caulking to keep out moisture and fumes
    (5) Spray the bottom with several coats of undercoat spray to seal the new piece to the hole in the outer piece
    (6) Total cost: Less than $20. I already had the sawsall and pop rivet gun
    I was thinking of attaching another piece of sheet metal from the bottom by attaching it to the top piece but thought that this would make it more likely to have water trapped. There is still a hole in the outer layer but the floor boards are solid. My only concern is that the undercoat spray I got was not very thick and I'm not sure if it has sealed all the voids with the hole in the outer layer. I'll shop around for something thicker.
    I used a tube of roofing tar / driveway sealer to fill in the voids where the bottom layer of metal connects to the patch galvanized steel installed from the top. This seemed to have the right consistency to fill the voids and make a watertight seal. I worked it in with a rubber glove. After seeing this I would probably skip the undercoat except to cover the galvanized steel to make it look better or spray it on after using the roofing tar.
    I checked the driver side and it is clean and pristine with no hint of rust. I did not see any plugs that could fall out. I didn't pull up the mat but I suspect the driver side does not have the rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top to hold in the top panel.
    I've declared victory!!!
  • i replaced the head gasket at the dealer 2months ago (which they told me they put new coolant, and oil), so I assume i don't need any oil change, right? But this morning when I check the dipstick, there was no oil, not even one drop of oil on the dipstick!!! I didn't know how long did i drive the car without oil, but i didn't feel or hear anything weird when i drive.. now at goodyear waiting and hopefully i didn't burn the engine.... in the meantime, in these 4/5 years i own this car, i had to replace a leaked hose/watertank, the shift canister, head gasket, motor mounts, upper and lower tube (couple months ago), the strut(?), and more minor things that i couldn't remember... IS THIS NORMAL ON A 2006??? I'm almost up to a point to trade it in.....
  • Hello, I recently found out, that is the attention getter, to let you know your alternator is going bad, i had it checked, and it was, have it check at Advanced auto or autozone for free
  • Hello
    I have a 1995 Nissan Altima, 195000 miles, it has gone from an ave of 22mpg to 48 miles per quarter tank, this started about 2 months ago, last month, i changed the air and fuel filter, plugs and wires, and the engine doesn't miss... no change, I've had the codes shot, ignition on, and running, the only code is a knock sensor, I would appreciate any help

  • Good day,

    Another issue, electrical, 1995 Altima, when i start my car, the marker lights and taillights come on, with my headlights on, if i cut the car off, the stereo, lights, windshield wipers all stay on until i turn the headlights off, could someone tell me which wires to look for

  • I have nissam altima 2008 2.5s with the same problem ... the computer cuts of the gas pedal and does not allow it over 140 km/h when i use the automatic or manual drive and cuts the gas at 130 km/h when i use the cruse drive.
    i tested my car in nissan company with there computer (consult 3) and showed no problem !!!!!!!!

    so ... what is the soution ... do u have one for this problem?!?
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    I've a 2002 Altima that's been having hard starting all the time whether in the morning or night.
    It started with chain noise for which the chain adjuster was changed.
    Some felt its the fuel pump and a new one was fixed yet the hard starting has persisted.
    Anyone with similar experience or suggestion/solution?
    This hard starting is killing me! I need serious help.

    Is there any other cars engine that can fit into the 02 Altima say toyota corolla/camry?
  • The most likely cause for this in this engine is a head gasket that is leaking coolant into one or more cylinders while the engine is not running. Conversely, this will also manifest itself as an overheating problem when this condition worsens.

    Also, check system voltage while cranking engine. If it drops below a certain voltage (not sure what value on this one) the computer can do strange things. If voltage is above 10 volts this is probably not a problem. Have the car is checked out by a qualified mechanic, and if EVERYTHING checks good, I mean no computer codes, voltages ok, compression OK, new spark plugs installed, EVERYTHING, install another ecm (engine computer) On these cars, when everything checks perfectly, but the car exhibits unexplainably weird behavior, change the ecm. You can get one on ebay for less than $100.00. You will need to remove the old one from its mounting bracket under the glove box and get the model/serial number from it. Just buy a used one with than number on it. When you install it, the car should run, but probably like crap. You will need to take it to the Nissan dealer and have them reflash the ecm, go through idle relearn, and do any firmware updates necessary. How do you know if the computer you buy is good? You won't, but the probability of the new one having the same failure mode as the old one is slim to none. If it is bad, it will be covered by Ebay's warranty. Good luck. Hug your favorite leprechaun, that's the best help with these problems on these cars.
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    Thanks, the head gasket is gone just like you said. I checked the oil later in the evening and discovered this milky fluid in the dip stick as well as in the place where oil is poured into the engine.
    the mechanic has torn down the engine and wants to double the gasket as well as change the metals and rings! hope this works.

    I still need an answer to the question - is there anyother cars engine that can fit into the Altima say toyota corolla or camry? i need to change the engine but I dont need Altima engine anymore!
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    I still need an answer to the question - is there anyother cars engine that can fit into the Altima say toyota corolla or camry? i need to change the engine but I dont need Altima engine anymore!

    i like the body design but the engine is so much stressful to maintain. anytime it has a problem it takes months to make a diagnosis.
    Any clue?
  • I had my car in for an oil change 2 weeks ago and the service dept didn't "notice" any problems. I took it in yesterday for a certified inspection so I could purchase an extended warranty. I saw a few guys looking and messing around the left front axle. The service manager called me over and pointed out a small slice in the axle boot, and some fluid sprayed around. He told me it was road hazard damage and not covered under warranty. He also told me that they could not replace just the boot, and quoted me $650 to replace the whole axle shaft. he did say there was no rush , that I could probably drive it another thousand miles or so. Tonite I looked on and I see that Nissan sells the boot separatly. Why would they sell the boot as a separate part number if you can't replace only the boot? Is the service manager scamming me ? Any imput would be greatly appreciated.
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