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We purchased a '00 Odyssey EX in Feb '00. We were generally very happy with it, although we had a few gripes (e.g., the sliders needed work a couple of times; tranny made that odd 4th gear noise between 50-60 mph; etc.).
On July 26 my wife, her mother, and our 6-year old daughter were broadsided by an SUV going about 40 mph (maybe more). Never even braked. Hit right by the driver-side pillar, and bent both the floor panels and roof. Penetrated about 10 inches.
Although it was totaled, our Odyssey held up very well and protected my family. All walked away from it, although my mother-in-law had a broken sternum from the seatbelt.
So no more gripes from me about the Odyssey! Given its side impact crash performance, we went right out and bought another one, an '02 EX-L with the DVD, which was all that was left. (BTW, thanks to Pat Parrish at Anderson Honda in Baltimore!) We just picked it up on Wednesday and are very pleased.
I was pleasantly surprised by the major improvements over the '00: tranny is MUCH smoother and generally more fun to drive, four-wheel disc brakes, and lots of little foo-foo for not much more money. And the DVD, although we really didn't want it at first, is SPECTACULAR!! The most surprising change is that I swear the ride and handling have been tweaked a good bit. Seems to handle bumps more smoothly than our old one. In short, a real pleasure to drive.
Bottom line: I'll put up with some gripes (none so far, though) for a safe vehicle.
That is good news. Thanks for sharing it. For a vehicle to withstand 40 mph side impact, without serious injuries, is certainly above government requirements, and normal manufacturer crash tests.
40 mph would protect you under most driving conditions.
The number one reason I bought an Odyssey is for its safety. A number of first person accounts here on this board, as well as the crash tests done by the independent institute, headed by Brian O'Neal, show its safety rating is excellent.
Another thing I like about the Odyssey is that you actually sit fairly far from the outside perimeter of the car, thanks to its width. I think this additional crumple space helped save my wife from additional injury since the other car penetrated into the interior of ours.
The impact actually moved the driver's seat over about 6 inches, with her in it, of course. Really odd because the seat wasn't tilted or anything. When I climbed in the car after the accident, I was amazed to find that the formerly pretty wide isle between the seats had been shrunk to about 5 inches. No way to raise the little picnic table any more!! The car appeared to really crumple in an intelligent manner.
One other lesson we learned was not to have loose items lying about the car. My wife had a heavy steel coffee thermos on the floor in that same isle. The impact threw it max 10 inches and left a large dent in its side (must have hit the seat support, or vice versa). I can't imagine what would have happened had that hit somebody in the head or even just the foot or leg. So from now on, we don't leave the drive way until everything is secured, including booster seats, ice scrapers, etc.
Just bought a 2002 EX-L in Canada. Love it. Anybody know the following? - if the climate control says "A/C on" does that mean it will always run until you turn it to "A/C off", or does it mean that A/C will be enabled when the system needs it?
- similarly, in "Full Auto" mode, will the system have the A/C on continuously (whether you want heat or not) or selectively only when it tries to cool the car
- also - does the rear climate control consist of a separate A/C unit for the rear (ie. 2 A/C units total for the car) or just a blower
These questions have obvious fuel efficiency implications. Thanks in advance for anybody's help.
While I'm at it - anyone ever try/heard of electronic rust proofing systems (pass a charge around the sheetmetal to deter corrosion)? We're planning on keeping Ody for v. long time (paid full MSRP, etc.etc. you all know the story...)Thanks.
When you turn Full Auto. It's just like your home A/C system it will turn on and off depends on the setting and inside temperature. For example, here is So Cal after Ody is parked under the sun for a while, once you turn on the engine with A/C in Full auto, It will circular inside air only and with full blast of power until it cools the inside down then turns to lower fan speed. You must be joking about fuel efficiency to use A/C right? How hot do you guys get up in Canada? We have 90-100 F during summer all the time.
electronic rust proofing system? Sounds like a good idea. I have some questions. DO they install something on your Ody to keep sheet metal charged up all the time or just one time charge electrons deal? How do they hold the charges on the sheet metal surface? Aren't all the sheet metals grounded to chasic ground? BTW when you drive you Ody you will build up enough charges from your seat, you probably will get zapped quite often if your area is dry enough. I heard about people talking about to try to drain the charges ground to prevent ESD.
1. Re A/C, my question was prompted by this Government of Canada web site - I cut/pasted excerpts if you want to read it
It seems that some automatic climate control systems leave the A/C on all the time - not,actually, like a thermostat (which is what I assumed initially as well). Anyways, fuel penalty is up to 20% worse in city driving (see below). I think that's irrespect of the outside temperature and has more to do whether the A/C is on or not. Gas prices up here are 78.9 cents/litre or $3.07/U.S. gallon. Speaking of mileage, I got 23mpUSg at 62.5 mph (cruise), into a headwind, a canoe, 2 people, camping gear, and about 800 miles on the odo.
"Air conditioning saps power from the engine in two ways mechanically, to operate the compressor, and electrically, to run the blower motor. Operating an air conditioner in hot weather can increase fuel consumption by more than 20 percent in city driving. Acceleration is also affected.
Some of the more expensive vehicles have automatic climate control systems in which the air-conditioning compressor is on all the time (even in winter) to reduce the moisture content of the air in the car. It is estimated that these systems can increase fuel consumption by about five percent, so if you are in the market for one of these vehicles, look for a climate control system with an "economy" mode.
If you are buying a passenger van, you should be aware that some models have optional heating/air-conditioning booster systems for the rear seats. If the system consists of only an extra blower motor in the rear, it won't have much effect on fuel consumption. Another type of system, however, adds a second air-conditioning unit for the rear, almost doubling the impact on fuel economy."
2. Re. rust proofing - I saw the gadget that the local Mercedes dealer installs. It's an electronic unit about the size of a pack of cards, installed under the hood. Has a green light on it to show it's on, and everything. I think there's a second part to it as well. Called "Autosaver" and has a "lifetime warranty" against rust. $CDN599 installed,including paint and leather protectors.
Actually spoke with a friend whose company protects underground steel tanks against corrosion using this method. Tanks have 25 year life span. So far, no corrosion.
If the principle is good, the question is - how good are the automotive applications? I agree with your point re. sheetmetal components being grounded,etc. The system's only going to be good if the vast majority of the sheetmetal experiences an uninterrupted charge. Tried a Google search for "Autosaver" and "rust proofing" - not much there. No mention in Consumer Reports, so there is really little to go on here in deciding to blow the $ and forego the usual spray rustproofing.
Cabrales1, the short answer is no (in the US anyway).
I don't recall exactly where I read this, but as I recall, you have to get a waiver form and find a certified mechanic to wire a switch in. You need to have a reason for disabling it to get the waiver, and I'm not sure what reason would be acceptable for a minivan (you do see off switches in pickups occasionally so the airbag can be disabled if you have a child carrier installed.
If you want to do it legally, I think you need to go to local DMV to get a waiver approved before a mechanics will put in a switch. I agree with Steve our host, I can't think about any reason to disable the passenger side airbag for a Minivan. You have too many seats available to put a child safety seat in. mmmm?
Well, there are no nefarious reasons related to my question about dissabling the ABS. I have a 7 year old (well, almost 8), and there have been times when I had to put her on the front passenger seat and I have read that you shouldn't do that. But when the other seats are taken up by home improvement stuff, or by other kids, I sometimes have had no choice.
There is a guy on S2000 board who has done this. He was siging a waiver and putting a switch in his car. You may want to try it over there, I think his UID is habitat1.
Total of 9 colors and these new convenience and safety features:
An intermittent rear window wiper with washer, power windows with automatic up/down driver's window, and a new "Wave" key (a key with dual toothed sides making it more difficult to copy and less likely to scratch surfaces) are among the latest enhancements.
My 99 EX has the auto up/ down driver's window and power windows. Was that omitted at one time ? I don't recall any comments about it. My key also has dual toothed sides. It has a chip in it to start the van. A replacement key in 99 cost $28. My guess is that the "new wave" key will cost much more. BTW I don't get the harder to scratch stuff either. I have remote key fobs.
I believe your Odyssey only has an auto down driver's window, that is you have to hold the button to make the window close completely. The 2003 Odyssey will have a one touch to make the driver's window close completely button. My 2002 Odyssey has an intermittent setting for the rear window wiper, maybe they mean variable intermittent?
Maybe they have integrated the washer fluid squirter into the wiper arm as opposed to the current design of it being in the spoiler.
I know that I think the current rear squirter is very weak and that the fluid doesn't hit much of the window. Couple that with the cracking spoilers at the washer outlet led to a new design.
Don't own an Odysssey yet and apologize if this question may be redundant, but... Can anyone tell me whether the 3rd row seat in either the 2002 or new 2003 model has its own heating/AC vents?
I know some of the larger vans have 3rd row seating capacity, but the temp. is never right. Either too hot, or too cold because the heat and air don't carry all the way to the 3rd row.
My 2002 EX (not sure if LX has them) has heating/AC for the front and back. The zone for the back is manual control only. It can be controlled from the driver's seat or the left middle seat. There are controls on the ceiling and about 4-5 vents in the ceiling that cover the back of the van including the 3rd seat. We have had a very hot summer here and the van cools down quickly with both zones on full blast. It is a little noisy on full throttle but works well. Have not used the heat yet but I am sure it will work just as well. Hope this helps.
I have a 2000 Ody EX and have the tire pressure pumped to 32 psi all the time. Just read the manual which recommends 35 psi. Is it true that I have the tire under-pressured all the time? Have you always pumped tires to 35 psi (cold tire)?
Does anyone have any thoughts on the Black color vs. Silver? Will the black be too hard to keep clean? Show too many scratches? Is there enough contrast between the silver exterior and the quartz interior?
I also have a 2000 EX and have noted the 35 psi tire pressure, recommended in the book. I have also asked the dealer what they set it to and they say 32 psi. I also have measured the tire pressures, after they set them, and that is what they set them at 32 psi cold.
If you will look at the side wall of your tires, it says recommended maximum pressure cold, 35psi. Normally you set your tires at the maximum pressure if you want to carry the maximum load. You don't normally set the tires at the maximum pressure however, as you get the worst ride and perhaps more noise that way.
The automotive manufacturers probably recommend the maximum pressure because that gives them the maximum gasoline mileage. That is important to them because they have to meet a US government maximum gasoline mileage, which is averaged on their entire fleet of cars, they make. The difference in mileage however, is not significant to the owner of the vehicle.
Also that would help save them from law suits, if someone overloaded their vehicle and the tires got hot and blew out. The problem with the Ford Explorer was that Ford, in order to provide a better ride, recommended a lower tire pressure, then the tire manufacturer, Firestone recommended. When the tires begin to fail and they got sued, they then recommend the higher Firestone pressures. The problem there however, was that the tires used on the vehicle were marginal as to their load carrying ability to begin with.
I have found that I get a much better ride, and maybe less noise, at 32 then 35. So as long as you don't carry a heavy load, I think 32 would be OK, if you check your tire pressure every month. All tires leak air through the rubber and so you do have to put air in them about once every 1 to 2 months. I might add however that I just checked my tires after 2 months and the pressure seems to have stayed about the same. I wonder what others of you have experanced with your tire pressures remaining the same, for long periods of time? Maybe they are making tires better these days in that regard.
I don't like to check the air in my tires very often so I actually put 33 psi in my tires and then check them about every 6 to 8 weeks.
Just a quick comment on passenger seat airbags: I think it was Patrick Bedard who wrote a well-researched editorial in C & D about this topic based on his need to put his daughter up- front on occasion. It turns out there has not been one death of a child attributed to airbag deployment when seatbelts were properly worn. This is one of those cases where figures lie and liars figure. Yes, many kids have died from airbag trauma, but only when the seatbelt wasn't worn or the seat was up too close to the airbag, or both. This applies the same to drivers who sit very close to the wheel. The bottom line is that if a child is restrained properly in a forward facing car seat or on the seat (if tall enough), and the seat is as far back as it goes, the airbag becomes a non-issue. Even with the forward motion and stretch of the belts from the force of the crash, the passenger will probably not make contact with the airbag, or it will be slight (which will likely be helpful). It is still best to keep kids in back, but if necessary, the front is OK as long as it's not a rear-facing infant seat. Those are the primary reason two-seat vehicles offer keyed passenger airbag shut-offs.
I always said the Odyssey would look great in black, but that is a decision you'll have to make on your own. I have a silver '02, and there isn't much contrast between the exterior and interior. The interior would be better in a dark gray than the light gray, especially if you tend to get the interior dirty hauling cargo and messy kids. Maybe this will sound like justification for my frugality, but with the cheaper LX, the contrast between the black mirrors and door handles vs. the silver actually looks pretty good. I added to the look by adding the black rubber mud guards. On the EX, the mirrors and handles are body-colored, so it takes on a sort of monochromatic monotony, which some people prefer. If it was the 80s, people would be pinstriping these things like crazy. Maybe even a dark gray "landau" roof here and there. Silver is otherwise pretty bland, but very easy to maintain. Sometimes it goes many weeks without a wash and still looks reasonably nice. Then you wash it and can't believe how great it looks. Black usually looks bad two days after it's been washed; one hour during tree pollen season. I just picked up a silver car for myself. The dealer only had black and silver in stock. Deep down I preferred the black, but I've had 4 black cars (and one dark gray) so I've learned my lesson.
There is nothing that looks better than a Black vehicle when it is clean. The problem, keeping it clean. Traded the Black Grand Am in on an Oddy and I don't miss that color at all.
I had placed an order for a Havasu Blue 2003, 3 months ago, to be delivered in Sept.. I got a call from the dealer this week telling me that the only colors Honda is shipping now are red, white, silver and sandstone. Is this true or is he messing with me? Thanks for any info.
I have a 2000 Odyssey EX. I have infrequently hit a button sequence on my car door remote that has started the car remotely. My dealer denies that this feature exists. Does anyone know of this feature, yet alone the sequence that I can do to reproduce this function. Thanks
I also have a 2000 Odyssey EX. There was no "feature" where you could start the car remotely by hitting a button sequence on the remote key chain device. The keys for the car will start the car only if they were coded to start it. Only a Honda dealer can provide a spare coded key. So what would be the purpose of being able to start the car with the remote key chain attachment.
It is possible that your car was modified, after it left the factory, to have this feature, by some after market dealer. In that case you could consult dealers, that make remote starters, to see what the button sequence is.
Since anything is possible, it is also possible, but highly unlikely, that by mistake, that the car did come from the factory so that it would operate in that way. If that were true I am sure that Honda and Odyssey owners would want to know about it. So if you find out that your Odyssey does work that way, please let Honda know.
Just bought a 2002 EX with DVD, and all I can say is, what a vehicle! Lots of space, smooth and quiet ride, easy to put child in her car seat, power doors are awesome and flip down third seat is incredible! Daughter loves the DVD player - can't wait for long trips. It's hard to understand why anyone would buy an MDX or Pilot - the only reason is if you can't stomach the thought of a minivan. I can speak authoritatively on the issue since we traded in an MDX for the Odyssey. In my opinion, the Odyssey is superior in every way. After driving the MDX for two years, my wife and I agree the auto industry is perpetrating a huge fraud on the public, making them think they have to have SUVs because they're cool and vans aren't. Our MDX cost about $36,000 and the Odyssey about $30,000. And the Odyssey has two power doors, a DVD system and several other features the MDX doesn't. It also rides more smoothly and quietly. Sure it doesn't have all-wheel drive, but oh well. I'm sure a lot of people will disagree with me (especially on the MDX board) but for your money, you can't beat the Odyssey.
Enjoy your Odyssey. My wife has the Odyssey and I have the MDX. The MDX will be the only vehicle going north for our frequent ski trips. Perhaps Honda should put the 4 wheel drive system in the Odyssey for a real home run.
It'll take a major redesign of the Odyssey to fit an AWD system into it. The well for the third row seat is too deep and cuts into the space needed for a rear drive axle and differential. The Chrysler people are always saying that's the reason they don't offer the third row disappearing seat on their vans.
We have had restrictions placed on us by Honda on a couple of colors. Havasu Blue and Noble Green. Only 5% of our allocation can be made up in these colors...that means only 1 out of 20 Odys can be in either of these two colors. This on affect the Alabama plant as the Alliston plant with Pilot produces whatever you want. The eventual release date for BL and GN is December.
Noble Green does not appear as a color on the Honda Website. The two Green colors are Evergreen Pearl and Sagebrush Pearl. I have ordered a Odyssey in Sagebrush Pearl and the dealer told me that a December delivery would be the earliest we should expect the vehicle. Which green were you referring to?
I have a couple questions re accessories. Apparently our car (silver, DVD) will be built next week and shipped 7-10 days after that. The price is sticker + bogus dealer "document fee" ($179), CT lemon law fee (?), tax and license. Over the phone they want absurd amounts for dealer installed accessories: $349 for x-bars, $295 for mud flaps, $695 for fog lights (I have had on many cars and frankly fluff in my opinion). H and A has these items for far less. I presume they are fairly simple to install? My question is whether the x-bars are compatible with Thule components or if Thule x-bars are available/compatible with the OEM EX roof rack. I am very much looking forward to this vehicle as 3 car seats in a conventional car is nearly impossible!
Congratulations on the baby and the Odyssey. From my research I have found that you can use Thule cross-bars with the OEM Rack and you can use OEM cross-bars with some Thule components. The OEM bars can only support 150lbs where the Thule bars can support about 200lbs. You an contact Thule or Yakima (?) directly for more info.
Not sure if you are familiar with the LATCH system. If not, you are really going to like it. Makes installation and removal of car seats a snap. I bought mud flaps and installed myself. Cost about $50 and took 10 minutes. The cargo tray (fits in the 3rd seat well) is a must (about $60). You should order this before you get your van and it should be the first thing you install.
Could anyone who has experience with nose mask tell me if the installation and removal is simple, and how often it needs to be removed? I'm assuming it should be removed every time it is washed. Any noticeable paint fading? We will take delivery of '03 red rock pearl soon and I would like to install as soon as possible. I just hope we can get it home without rock chips as we live 1 hour away from dealer. Also, has anyone had the back-up sensors installed. Can this be done by dealer? Cost?
I think nosemasks are a bad idea, I see people driving them around all the time, even when it's raining. The moisture will get under it and mess the paint up. 3M makes a clear film product that can be professionally cut and installed on your vehicle which covers the front part of the hood, and will protect it against rock chips. I think that's a better way to go.
congratulations on your ody and you will enjoy it very much. best mini-van out there.
i personally prefer to commute in my mdx than the ody. i don't know about the 2001 mdx, but the 2002 is pretty quiet and feels a little smoother than the 2002 ody. the brakes on the mdx stand out in comparison to the ody. they both have good breaks, but i love the feel of the ones on the mdx.
the luxury feel of the mdx is very nice too. the ody is more of a spartan practical vehicle.
anyway, my point is that if you have kids or are planning to, the ody is the way to go. if you want a luxury vehicle with awd that gives you a nice view of the road then mdx is the way to go.
some of it may be image, but i think suvs are more fun to drive.
Is anyone familiar with the I-VES system ? We are ordering a 2003 with NAV, but would also like the DVD player for the kids. Since that is not an option, we are looking at the I-VES system. It looks like all of the same components as the RES system except that you get a VCR instead of a DVD player. Does anyone know if you can swap the VCR for a DVD player ?
Is this good option or are we better having an aftermkt DVD system put in ?
has been discontinued for the VHS units. We have a new I-VES arriving this fall/winter which is an in-dash DVD system.
I will know in about 4 weeks wether this unit can go into a NAV system. This unit should be the same as the unit for the 2003 Accord, and Pilot. I am hoping that we will be able to use it with CRV also.
Comments
Jerry
Jerry
On July 26 my wife, her mother, and our 6-year old daughter were broadsided by an SUV going about 40 mph (maybe more). Never even braked. Hit right by the driver-side pillar, and bent both the floor panels and roof. Penetrated about 10 inches.
Although it was totaled, our Odyssey held up very well and protected my family. All walked away from it, although my mother-in-law had a broken sternum from the seatbelt.
So no more gripes from me about the Odyssey! Given its side impact crash performance, we went right out and bought another one, an '02 EX-L with the DVD, which was all that was left. (BTW, thanks to Pat Parrish at Anderson Honda in Baltimore!) We just picked it up on Wednesday and are very pleased.
I was pleasantly surprised by the major improvements over the '00: tranny is MUCH smoother and generally more fun to drive, four-wheel disc brakes, and lots of little foo-foo for not much more money. And the DVD, although we really didn't want it at first, is SPECTACULAR!! The most surprising change is that I swear the ride and handling have been tweaked a good bit. Seems to handle bumps more smoothly than our old one. In short, a real pleasure to drive.
Bottom line: I'll put up with some gripes (none so far, though) for a safe vehicle.
40 mph would protect you under most driving conditions.
The number one reason I bought an Odyssey is for its safety. A number of first person accounts here on this board, as well as the crash tests done by the independent institute, headed by Brian O'Neal, show its safety rating is excellent.
The impact actually moved the driver's seat over about 6 inches, with her in it, of course. Really odd because the seat wasn't tilted or anything. When I climbed in the car after the accident, I was amazed to find that the formerly pretty wide isle between the seats had been shrunk to about 5 inches. No way to raise the little picnic table any more!! The car appeared to really crumple in an intelligent manner.
One other lesson we learned was not to have loose items lying about the car. My wife had a heavy steel coffee thermos on the floor in that same isle. The impact threw it max 10 inches and left a large dent in its side (must have hit the seat support, or vice versa). I can't imagine what would have happened had that hit somebody in the head or even just the foot or leg. So from now on, we don't leave the drive way until everything is secured, including booster seats, ice scrapers, etc.
Mark
Everyone with aftermarket VCP's in your vans, please check your restraint setup!
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Just bought a 2002 EX-L in Canada. Love it.
Anybody know the following?
- if the climate control says "A/C on" does that mean it will always run until you turn it to "A/C off", or does it mean that A/C will be enabled when the system needs it?
- similarly, in "Full Auto" mode, will the system have the A/C on continuously (whether you want heat or not) or selectively only when it tries to cool the car
- also - does the rear climate control consist of a separate A/C unit for the rear (ie. 2 A/C units total for the car) or just a blower
These questions have obvious fuel efficiency implications. Thanks in advance for anybody's help.
While I'm at it - anyone ever try/heard of electronic rust proofing systems (pass a charge around the sheetmetal to deter corrosion)? We're planning on keeping Ody for v. long time (paid full MSRP, etc.etc. you all know the story...)Thanks.
When you turn Full Auto. It's just like your home A/C system it will turn on and off depends on the setting and inside temperature. For example, here is So Cal after Ody is parked under the sun for a while, once you turn on the engine with A/C in Full auto, It will circular inside air only and with full blast of power until it cools the inside down then turns to lower fan speed.
You must be joking about fuel efficiency to use A/C right? How hot do you guys get up in Canada? We have 90-100 F during summer all the time.
electronic rust proofing system? Sounds like a good idea. I have some questions. DO they install something on your Ody to keep sheet metal charged up all the time or just one time charge electrons deal? How do they hold the charges on the sheet metal surface? Aren't all the sheet metals grounded to chasic ground? BTW when you drive you Ody you will build up enough charges from your seat, you probably will get zapped quite often if your area is dry enough. I heard about people talking about to try to drain the charges ground to prevent ESD.
1. Re A/C, my question was prompted by this Government of Canada web site - I cut/pasted excerpts if you want to read it
It seems that some automatic climate control systems leave the A/C on all the time - not,actually, like a thermostat (which is what I assumed initially as well). Anyways, fuel penalty is up to 20% worse in city driving (see below). I think that's irrespect of the outside temperature and has more to do whether the A/C is on or not. Gas prices up here are 78.9 cents/litre or $3.07/U.S. gallon. Speaking of mileage, I got 23mpUSg at 62.5 mph (cruise), into a headwind, a canoe, 2 people, camping gear, and about 800 miles on the odo.
http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/autosmart/howtobuy/q7.cfm
"Air conditioning saps power from the engine in two ways mechanically, to operate the compressor, and electrically, to run the blower motor. Operating an air conditioner in hot weather can increase fuel consumption by more than 20 percent in city driving. Acceleration is also affected.
Some of the more expensive vehicles have automatic climate control systems in which the air-conditioning compressor is on all the time (even in winter) to reduce the moisture content of the air in the car. It is estimated that these systems can increase fuel consumption by about five percent, so if you are in the market for one of these vehicles, look for a climate control system with an "economy" mode.
If you are buying a passenger van, you should be aware that some models have optional heating/air-conditioning booster systems for the rear seats. If the system consists of only an extra blower motor in the rear, it won't have much effect on fuel consumption. Another type of system, however, adds a second air-conditioning unit for the rear, almost doubling the impact on fuel economy."
2. Re. rust proofing - I saw the gadget that the local Mercedes dealer installs. It's an electronic unit about the size of a pack of cards, installed under the hood. Has a green light on it to show it's on, and everything. I think there's a second part to it as well. Called "Autosaver" and has a "lifetime warranty" against rust. $CDN599 installed,including paint and leather protectors.
Actually spoke with a friend whose company protects underground steel tanks against corrosion using this method. Tanks have 25 year life span. So far, no corrosion.
If the principle is good, the question is - how good are the automotive applications? I agree with your point re. sheetmetal components being grounded,etc. The system's only going to be good if the vast majority of the sheetmetal experiences an uninterrupted charge. Tried a Google search for "Autosaver" and "rust proofing" - not much there. No mention in Consumer Reports, so there is really little to go on here in deciding to blow the $ and forego the usual spray rustproofing.
Whew! Sorry re. the long post everyone.
Tyson
I don't recall exactly where I read this, but as I recall, you have to get a waiver form and find a certified mechanic to wire a switch in. You need to have a reason for disabling it to get the waiver, and I'm not sure what reason would be acceptable for a minivan (you do see off switches in pickups occasionally so the airbag can be disabled if you have a child carrier installed.
This link has some general info.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Total of 9 colors and these new convenience and safety features:
An intermittent rear window wiper with washer, power windows with automatic up/down driver's window, and a new "Wave" key (a key with dual toothed sides making it more difficult to copy and less likely to scratch surfaces) are among the latest enhancements.
time ? I don't recall any comments about it. My key also has dual toothed sides. It has a chip in it to start the van.
A replacement key in 99 cost $28. My guess is that the "new wave" key will cost much more. BTW I don't get the harder to scratch stuff either. I have remote key fobs.
http://www.hondacars.com./models/specifications.asp?ModelName=Odyssey
2-Speed/Variable Intermittent Windshield Wipers
Power Windows w/Auto-Up/Down Driver's Window
I know that I think the current rear squirter is very weak and that the fluid doesn't hit much of the window. Couple that with the cracking spoilers at the washer outlet led to a new design.
We'll know soon enough.
Jerry
Can anyone tell me whether the 3rd row seat in either the 2002 or new 2003 model has its own heating/AC vents?
I know some of the larger vans have 3rd row seating capacity, but the temp. is never right. Either too hot, or too cold because the heat and air don't carry all the way to the 3rd row.
pumped to 32 psi all the time. Just read the manual
which recommends 35 psi. Is it true that I have the
tire under-pressured all the time? Have you always
pumped tires to 35 psi (cold tire)?
If you will look at the side wall of your tires, it says recommended maximum pressure cold, 35psi.
Normally you set your tires at the maximum pressure if you want to carry the maximum load. You don't normally set the tires at the maximum pressure however, as you get the worst ride and perhaps more noise that way.
The automotive manufacturers probably recommend the maximum pressure because that gives them the maximum gasoline mileage. That is important to them because they have to meet a US government maximum gasoline mileage, which is averaged on their entire fleet of cars, they make. The difference in mileage however, is not significant to the owner of the vehicle.
Also that would help save them from law suits, if someone overloaded their vehicle and the tires got hot and blew out. The problem with the Ford Explorer was that Ford, in order to provide a better ride, recommended a lower tire pressure, then the tire manufacturer, Firestone recommended. When the tires begin to fail and they got sued, they then recommend the higher Firestone pressures. The problem there however, was that the tires used on the vehicle were marginal as to their load carrying ability to begin with.
I have found that I get a much better ride, and maybe less noise, at 32 then 35. So as long as you don't carry a heavy load, I think 32 would be OK, if you check your tire pressure every month. All tires leak air through the rubber and so you do have to put air in them about once every 1 to 2 months. I might add however that I just checked my tires after 2 months and the pressure seems to have stayed about the same. I wonder what others of you have experanced with your tire pressures remaining the same, for long periods of time? Maybe they are making tires better these days in that regard.
I don't like to check the air in my tires very often so I actually put 33 psi in my tires and then check them about every 6 to 8 weeks.
The bottom line is that if a child is restrained properly in a forward facing car seat or on the seat (if tall enough), and the seat is as far back as it goes, the airbag becomes a non-issue. Even with the forward motion and stretch of the belts from the force of the crash, the passenger will probably not make contact with the airbag, or it will be slight (which will likely be helpful). It is still best to keep kids in back, but if necessary, the front is OK as long as it's not a rear-facing infant seat. Those are the primary reason two-seat vehicles offer keyed passenger airbag shut-offs.
I just picked up a silver car for myself. The dealer only had black and silver in stock. Deep down I preferred the black, but I've had 4 black cars (and one dark gray) so I've learned my lesson.
It is possible that your car was modified, after it left the factory, to have this feature, by some after market dealer. In that case you could consult dealers, that make remote starters, to see what the button sequence is.
Since anything is possible, it is also possible, but highly unlikely, that by mistake, that the car did come from the factory so that it would operate in that way. If that were true I am sure that Honda and Odyssey owners would want to know about it. So if you find out that your Odyssey does work that way, please let Honda know.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
These delays suck, but your dealer was correct.
Jerry
Noble Green does not appear as a color on the Honda Website. The two Green colors are Evergreen Pearl and Sagebrush Pearl. I have ordered a Odyssey in Sagebrush Pearl and the dealer told me that a December delivery would be the earliest we should expect the vehicle. Which green were you referring to?
Don
Not sure if you are familiar with the LATCH system. If not, you are really going to like it. Makes installation and removal of car seats a
snap. I bought mud flaps and installed myself. Cost about $50 and took 10 minutes. The cargo tray (fits in the 3rd seat well) is a must (about
$60). You should order this before you get your van and it should be the first thing you install.
Good Luck.
Also, has anyone had the back-up sensors installed. Can this be done by dealer? Cost?
Jerry
i personally prefer to commute in my mdx than the ody. i don't know about the 2001 mdx, but the 2002 is pretty quiet and feels a little smoother than the 2002 ody. the brakes on the mdx stand out in comparison to the ody. they both have good breaks, but i love the feel of the ones on the mdx.
the luxury feel of the mdx is very nice too. the ody is more of a spartan practical vehicle.
anyway, my point is that if you have kids or are planning to, the ody is the way to go. if you want a luxury vehicle with awd that gives you a nice view of the road then mdx is the way to go.
some of it may be image, but i think suvs are more fun to drive.
Is this good option or are we better having an aftermkt DVD system put in ?
I will know in about 4 weeks wether this unit can go into a NAV system. This unit should be the same as the unit for the 2003 Accord, and Pilot. I am hoping that we will be able to use it with CRV also.
Jerry