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Comments
So to the folks who are having back pain while driving this van, does this describe your situation?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Or - stop by your local police or fire department. Many officers and jakes are certified to properly install car seats. Ask them for help but be prepared to never remove the seat again. They put them in perfectly.
Good Luck.
The Odyssey just does not live on Honda's reputation. My friend's Ody is on its third transmission already. We are glad we bought the extended warranty for our Odyssey. For sure, no more Hondas again.
autotracking recently and it wont play tapes anymore. I went to get the remote
to try to fix it, and my remote is missing. I have checked online and cannot
find anyplace selling replacement remotes. I guess its off to the dealer then?
Has anyone else ever had to replace their remote?
sandy
I have three kids and the oldest fits in the back just fine. By removing the plus one seat, getting in the back is a breeze. Through the middle or put the seats next to each other and get in either side.
In addition the cavernous thirs seat well will fit two strollers no problem
Hope this helps
Since then, I have been getting about 18mpg around town, which has notoriously loooong stop lights.
When I mix in some freeway mileage, it jumps to about 22-23mpg combined.
I think, as some have stated, that the Hondas don't get their best mileage until they have some miles on them.
If you get an opportunity to get some long interstate miles, see if it improves.
Good luck,
Rick
THANKS NY
Is this normal?
NY
NY :mad:
If the van was shipped by train - tiny flecks of metal dust from the train rails land on the car and adhere to the paint. They don't show up on the hood or the wheels because Honda covers them with plastic during shipping. They don't come off easily by just washing the van. A couple months down the road they start to rust and make it appear that your van's paint is failing.
The way to get rid of the rail dust is to detail the van with a Clay Bar - clay bar is non-abrasive and won't scour the clear coat finish off the van, yet it will lift the rail dust and all other junk off the surface. Once the paint has be "clayed" it will feel smooth as silk - like it's just been waxed. Meguiar's and few other car care companies sell clay bars - they're around $15-$20,
Does any one know if pulling the rotors and having them turned on an "old-fashioned" brake milling machine is okay? As long as the run out is okay, I can't imagine there would be a problem milling them off the van. Anyone know anything different? :confuse:
I have stopped looking for the ECO light to come on since then...
I guess it does not matter... we have stop and go traffic only during our commute for about 5-10 miles. The remaining 70-75 miles are spent cruising at 70 +/- 5 mph.
So based on the speeds I would call 90+% as highway driving and expect close to 28 mpg.
With gas prices these days!! it better live up to the expected mpg and reach there sooner than later. The mpg was one of the factors why we ended up with a Honda that too an EX-L with VCM.
:mad:
Has the dealer completed these repairs to your satisfaction? If not then take it back until the problem is fixed.Sounds like you may have a case under the lemon law. So, check your states requirements for filing. You usually get a booklet from the dealer when you purchase your new car indicating what requirements are necessary to file in each case(i.e not being able to fix the problem after 3 attempts i.e your transmission, or having your vehicle out of service for a certain period of time.) The booklet should also give you numbers to Honda customer service if dealership is not handling to your satisfaction.
Is P0420 solely related to the catalytic converter?
6+ months ago, the CEL in our 2000 Ody came on for 200 or 300 miles, then went off. A few hundred miles later, it came on and stayed on. I did a scan, and got one fault: P0420 (Catalyst system efficiency below Threshold).
Since I had always thought that a cat should last the life of a vehicle (or at least more than 86k....yes, just beyond warranty) I stopped by the Honda service center.
They said that they frequently replace cats in '99 - '02 Ody's. Too bad mine was out of warranty, and it would be $700+.
Since we're on our third transmission in this car, I figured that the jarring/trauma of splitting the exhaust every time the trans was changed may have ruined the cat. Giving this van (quickly approaching Lemonhood) the benefit of the doubt, I replaced the cat and reset the PCM.
This morning, my wife said that the CEL is back on! Admittedly, I haven't run a diagnostic on it yet, but I'm betting that it's going to come up P0420(Catalyst system efficiency below Threshold).
Am I being too cynical? Just because my company car is a used Ford Explorer that I bought on eBay, in which I've put 75k absolutely trouble-free miles on, and we're driving a 2000 minivan that we took delivery of new, with slight body damage - but paid full price (not Honda's fault, I know), then had a rebuilt trans installed under warranty at 2,500k, then when that unit went bad at 59k had another installed. After needing a complete brake job (warped rotors) at 60k, using all Honda parts, it gets a full-blown shimmy above 60 mph....after 15k miles.
Now, the dreaded CEL. I thought Hondas were more reliable than this :lemon:
Of course, you could just build a bigger garage.
There is no power to the Pass. power sliding door in any position and/or by using all controls (remote, driver's switch, handles, etc). The Driver's side door works fine. With the pass. door fully closed, the "Sliding Door" light stays on, until I 'lock' them with the on/off switch on the driver's door. The light then goes off, and I can drive. This does not appear to be a 'closed door' contact issue (spring contacts at door closed position).
I checked the fuse (#5-passenger side interior fuse block) and it's fine.
I did notice that the little plastic switch that is activated by the int/ext. handles when the door is in the open position seems to be sticking, and it's 'clicking' sound is erratic.
Assuming that this switch is bad, can a faulty switch disable - or throw out of sequence the door's electronics?
I want to avoid paying for the dealer to troubleshoot this problem by throwing parts at it, as they have done previously with our two bad transmissions, bad rear wiper motor, etc. I'm guessing that the repair bill will be astronomical.
I plan to start by replacing the switch, solely because it seems to be sticking. After the replacement, of course I hope to get power back to the door.
I'm hoping that there's an electrical disable feature that cuts power to the door in the event of an out-of-sequence switch. That would explain everything....but is there a way to reset, 're-sequence' or re-program the door's electronics after a faulty switch has been replaced, or has the bad switch fried some control circuitry that would also need to be replaced?
Thanks,
J.P.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Becky~
Thanks,
If it is in 5th gear, the engine RPM will likely be between 1400 -1800 at 45 to 54mph and this low RPM may be giving that sensation as the engine is looking for a command (i.e. your hitting the X) to downshift to 4th.
Just a theory...