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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance



  • Can someone help me? I own a 2003 Chevy S10 4X4, 4 door crew cab.
    I go to fill up my tank the other day and it won't take fuel. The pump automatically clicks off the same it does when the tank is full, but it is not. It was empty and I knew it was because I hadn't filled up in a long time. Then, fuel started pouring back out. It is currently at the mechanic and they said there is a kit that will fix the problem. Well, they bought the kit and it didn't work. They said they are still trying to find the problem and they haven't seen anything like this before. Have any of you heard of this happening or know what the problem may be? Any insight would be very helpful! Thank you!!
  • When you think you've seen it all! 1997 S-10 4.3X 5 speed. Been smelling gas when I get out of truck for 6 months or so, snugged nuts on spyder injector, still smelling gas. This week, check engine light came on, ran rough, then Check Engine Light started blinking. Got home, parked it, couldn't restart it. Pulled codes, low coolant temp, vehicle speed sensor. No spark from coil, checked coil, never going to ground when cranking.
    Reseated connectors to sensors. No help. Upon reseating computer connectors, lower 2 connectors when pulled out, the weather seal bootie expanded and out of shape. Smelled more gas, took computer off mounts, POURED A WHISKEY SHOT GLASS FULL OF GASOLINE FROM THE COMPUTER!!! Separated the case, the o-ring seal expanded like a spring waiting to get out. Computer boards have sealant on them, gas evidently broke it down into goo. Dried it w/air gun, At least it starts now but still Check Engine Light on. I'm guessing computer is shot, but my concern is more HOW DOES GAS GET INTO THE COMPUTER???? Only possible way is via the wiring harness, anyone else find this? I wonder how many unexplained underhood fires were the result of this?

    Thank You!!!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Has anyone replaced the complete door hinge? What kind of job is it? Is it welded or bolted on a 92 S-10 pickup?
  • Can anybody please tell me how to disconnect the security line?switch?fuse? i recently tried to start my truck and the ignition wouldn't even turn to the on position, so we had to break it out. My problem now is that I don't have the money to buy a new ignition yet so I planned on starting it with a screw driver, well the security feature is not allowing me to do that. When the security light is on the truck will start then die just as quick as you started it. A few times it has started anr run. Please, help.
  • I have a 97 Astro Van that has this exact same problem. I took it into the shop and they had no idea how gasoline could have gotten into the computer. They replaced the computer but didn't solve the problem. I then took it to another shop. They are looking at it right now, but the mechanic had heard of gasoline wicking up the wiring harness into the computer. I don't know where it is coming from, but I will find out when he gets it done. He thought it would take around 2 hours of labor. This mechanic said that it would definately fry the computer again if nothing was done to fix it. Very scary thinking that it could cause a pretty severe fire.
  • I think remember reading that the security chip is a "Proximity" based system. Try taping your key to the steering column ??
  • Hood Latch , Why the need to replace the hinge ??? The Reason would change my reply/repair technique ..

  • Thanks for the reply, I found that my spider injector assy is leaking up through the electrical connector. How it's getting up the wiring harness must either be by vibration or pressure? To wick I'd think would take cloth/absorbent material to travel on? It can't be gravity, the computer's higher than the intake. If there's a fix you find please advise?

    Thanks again.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Canufixit, thanks for the reply. Age has gotten to the hinge pin and has wallowed out the hole the pin goes through. On some cars in the past I've taken the hinge off, drilled the hole out over size and fitted a new pin. But the hinges use to be bolted on. I don't know what I'm dealing with on the S-10s.
    Regards. :)
  • As the pins are loose - I think I'd support the door - then punch out the pins?? Then rotate the door out so it is parallel to the front fender (I'm thinking of the electrical cables here ...) then drill out and replace the hinges as you said ??

  • My inputs ...

    The Injector (prefferably) and/or connector "should" be designed to prevent this - so I'd first look for this as root cause ... For a reason why it is getting into the computer "after" it get by the connector - I had a thought. Either Pressure in the cable from the ejector - or -
    If the Computer is well sealed - the air inside will expand and contract with temp difference as it heats/cools - and if it does not have a vent ?? capable of letting air in/out (with not water/ dirt) to equalize the pressure - it might just be using the cable on it's end to do this... So when the air expands in the Computer case - it pushes out the cable - when it contract - the vacuum sucks on the cable and pulls the gas up ??

    Fixing the injector connector/leak, to me, is the root cause here - but posssibly adding in a vent in the cable casing may be a possible work around - BUT BE CAREFUL if the gas is actually getting into the cable (pressure from the Injector side cable leak?) - then gas will, in instead of going in to the Computer case, go into the cable and squirt out - FIRE HAZARD .... Remember the injector inside is high pressure !!

    To me this should be root caused and the NTSB be notified ..

    I suggest you visit a dealer with your results to date (if they were not in the loop) - this should at least free you from any liability should you see the vehicle ..

  • Just a guess here ... I "thought" there is a small hose that goes from the gas tank to just inside the fuel fill neck. The attachment point in the tank is a in a special formed top of the tank that will "spit" gas back into the fill area. This is to trigger the auto pump shutoff so you will not over fill ??? (Someone correct me if I'm wrong here ...)

    So I'm wondering if the "shape" of the tank is incorrect and it does nothave the required pocket of air - and/or the fuel during fill is splashing in the tank into this in tank hose opening - and triggering the fuel autoshut off ...

    Also - The tank should Vent (I assume using the same hose??) to allow the air to escape when fueling ... perhaps the vent is too small - or blocked - so you pressurize the tank until it reaches a certain point - then Burps back the gas ???

    If there is a "Kit" it must be known to a dealer ??? I'd visit a dealer - tell them you have a possibel fire hazard -and ask them to give it a check and give you a statement on your recipt that says it OK. (as they probably will not whant to do if the issue is real..) But this gets GM in the loop for liability ... Fuel issues should be at least reported to the NTSB if it cannot be resolved ...

    Please advise what happens here ....
  • One More Dumb thought ....

    Was the vehicle like this when purchased - or did something change ?? If it did not do this originally - perhaps some joker put something in your Gas tank - I'm thinking stuffing in a small Barggie or larger garbage bag ??? This bag will fill with Air / Liquid - may block the vent (May cause the car to stall as well) - and - since liquids cannot compress - the internal trapped bag air will be able to be compress and cause the tank to pressureize and then squirt back under pressure ???

    Again - just trying to brainstorm here ....
  • Hi thebigal !!

    re: Past problem you had ...

    I saw this and thought you might be interested ... arreviewshowall/

    Air conditioner: The HVAC system mode switch gets stuck in the vent position as oil gets into the control head as a result of a leaking vacuum switch on the transfer case and a redesigned switch is available. (2001-03)
  • I posted this in underhood/ engine section, after 3 days started to wonder if anyone else was looking their. I hope that someone out there can help me with this problem!

    Hi, Does anyone here know if I can put an older 4.3 in my 91 GMC Sonoma. I need to replace my motor. I found a 4.3 L out of an 85 that has been rebuilt, just not sure if it will work.

    It seems like any 4.3 L should work, if I just used the long block. With my intake and throttle body.

    I'm new to this truck so not sure what will work.

    Any help will be appreciated.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi the BIGAL,

    Sorry for the late reply - I'm been busy- and besides, not much is going on in this B board since they re-structured ...

    My thoughts - and I did do a little research on the web as well ...

    First - There are just some things I'll not mess with - and right up there at the tp of the list is the braking system.
    So I'd buy approved parts from a reputible source .. The Consequences / cost is just not worth the possible outcome here ..
    With that said.... What I found on the web was that there is a balance between the amount of value on heat loss improvement (via the vent holes) and the available surface foriction loss (from the missing material from the holes). I also read that the venting is sometimes only helpful on hot brakes to prevent brake fade. However this must be balanced with the loss of surface friction area during "normal" non- long breaking needs.
    If I had a auto I wanted to customize and I was the only passemger - then I might decide to experiment and see the results - but why else?? I'd get, factory or reputable aftermarket or Recycled disks (re machined) - that are designed for the vehicle - and if they happend to have the vents - then it's assumed that the mfg has OK'd the vented style for your vehicle.

  • Hey everyone, it's been a while since I have been on this forum, glad to see its still running strong. I just have a quick question that someone can help me with, maybe spare me from spending 70 bucks at Midas. A few months back, I had an upper ball joint (passenger side) give out pretty violently. I went ahead and replaced both upper joints within a few weeks. The first time I took it back out though, my brakes weren't acting right. Every time I applied the brake, my ABS kicked in, and started jolting. It's like when you brake hard on some snow, the lights dim and flicker, the whole bit. Then randomly, my ABS will disengage completely, and the ABS light comes on the dash. It's actually safer with the ABS completely off, because then my brakes are more managable. I'm assuming that maybe an ABS sensor got messed up when the ball joint gave out? If anyone knows what exaclty is going on, please help me out. :sick:
  • mvolekmvolek Posts: 5
    Cross drilled cuts down on friction and heat. They wont warp quite as fast but like evrything else they do tend to warp after a while. I have a set on mine and they seem to do just fine
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi - try this ... Or search on the net for somehting similar. If the Sensors get dirty - or if the got moved during the Ball joint change - it will trigger the ABS ... this is part of a service notification - it may not be exactly what you have - but you can get the drift of the issue ...

    Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation

    Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B

    Date: January 05, 2006


    Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface)

    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
    1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)
    1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
    1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10
    1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)
    1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)
    1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy
    1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma
    1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada


    This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).


    Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.


    The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.


    Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.

    1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

    2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.

    3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.

    4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's.

    5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.

    6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.

    7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.

    8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor.

    9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).

    10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).

    11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.

    12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.

    13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi All,

    Now ... I'm just sure that I'll have some disagreement with this post - so let's just say this is my "opinion" and others are welcome to disagree ...

    The metalurgy and heat treatment/de stress / tempering of any rotor can be an issue and cause for failure - but it is my opinion the rotor will fail ( warp ) within a certain period of time after initial installation/use / multiple heat / cooling cycles... (i.e. earlier than later after many many miles ...) . However, although rotors are possible to fail much later due to this defect - well into the life of the rotor - I beleive this is the exception and not the rule. Most (if not all) persons I have talked with that had warped rotors - always had had some recent work done - that included removal and re-installation of the wheels.

    So where am I going with this ?? Yup - the lug nuts. With the rotors now being weight (thickness) and cost reduced to the min. required thicknesses - not only is it usual that they cannot be re-faced - they are much more prone to warpage from over tightening the lug nuts.

    6 months ago I had new tires installed (at a National Tire Chain) and I inquired how they tightened the lugs - for just this reason. They use a very low setting air torque guns - then hand tighten with a hand torque wrench. They said that, prior to this, they had numerous complaints on warped rotors - and to prevent claims back to them - changed their tigheneing process to include the hand torquing ... They originally thought that this would at least ensure they would not not be liable for the issues - but guess what - the complaints stopped as well ...

    Ok, Ok, this does not prove much - but It's my opinon ..
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    That is a very good dissertation on the theory of warped rotors. I can't agree or disagree on the over tightening scenario. I just haven't given it much thought. All I know is that when they first started coming out with disk brakes back in the day, they said to use a cross pattern when tighten down the lugs and to go over the pattern a couple of times so as not to crank down too tight the first go around. I don't know if this procedure holds any credence but so far it's worked for me. :)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Just a thought. What if you went on line to a parts web site like AdvanceAutoparts or Autozone and looked up the part number for long blocks of both S-10s to see if same. Or, give'em a call. Its probably as you suggested, change over the intake and a few extremities and you'll be good to go.

    I replaced the engine in my kids car a couple of months ago with a rebuilt long block. It came with a 36month/36k mile warranty. The car is a 95 2.2.L but the block would fit many years.
    Good luck :)
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165

    I agree-
    2 more cents worth (or is that 4 cents now ??)....

    Many years ago - When I was in Army Mechanic school - we were always taught to skip a lug / cross pattern tighten. But at the time it was to ensure that the wheel rear face was pulled flush to the drum. Some wheel center holes fit tightly over a circular boss of the Drum in the center - and may hang up if there is rust or other foreign matter int he opening. Also - the cross pattern was to to ensure that the the lugs get tighened evenly. First Tighten all lugs to bottom finger tight - then do the cross pattern twice - once lightly to snug and seat the full wheel - at least once more to tighten ... Also, The Drums had much more meat to them - I rarely heard of a warped drum - (but there ware out of round drums due to uneven wear of the shoes ...) It was common to snap lugs eother when removing - or tightening by hand ..
  • How can I tell if my 2001 S10 has a heater control valve? Where would it be located? Thanks for any help you can give me.
  • I bought my truck with about 80,000 miles on it and 7,000 miles later i still have the same problem... If i excellerate through second gear past about 23 MPH then the vibration is'nt as bad as if I shift with lower RPM's, then it feels like im coming in for landing on a plane, but it soon goes back to its normal slow self once i reach about 26 MPH. It does the same thing at about 47-50 MPH but not quite as bad. I have been told its the U-joints were bad but no luck with that. Maybe the crankshaft or some of the bearings have gone bad? If anyone has any clues to what might be wrong i would appreciate the advice. Thanks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Pls read my sad story of: #1707 of 2018 Re: vibration [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch May 05, 2006 (7:18 pm)

    I don't know is it matches the problems your having but it might be worth checking into.

    Good luck :blush:
  • I'm sorry you had to go through all that for something so small... I'm not for sure if the person before had replaced the catalytic converter or not but that's what im hoping for. Thanks
  • Hi - the bigal !!!

    Well, I'd not jump to comclusions that it's your rear main seal - just yet .... I'd check the following;

    (- I assume you checked that this oil is is not red tranny fluid ...)

    As I'm sure you know - Everything that leaks winds up on the bottom of the oil pan /and or/ transmission ...

    I'd clean the entire engine / under hood at this point and look / watch daily watch to see if it's not the;
    - Valve cover gaskets.
    - The oil pan gasket itself.
    - Also - years ago the pressure oil senders tended to be on the top of the engines - and they were well know for leaking oil - the oil would leak out the sender and drip down the block to the bottom. So, Don't forget to check the top of the block - and everywhere you can

    Obviously engines pick up all sorts of grime and such, and you just can't tell where it's coming from ... The main seals used today usually last well in excess of your mileage (some last almost forever ...).

    So, I'd get the whole engine compartment squeekly clean, and then look, watch and wait for a number of days ...

    Good Luck !!

  • Hi thebigal.

    I'm not "Sure" where the sender is on this engine - on my old (1960's-1970's) GMs I changed quite a few. Those were on the top rear of the engine (and leaked right where you say the oil is dripping - which is why I made the post / comment)...

    The Sender is no more than a pressure switch and I'd say it has to be well under $100 (~ $50 or less ??) . Also, those oils Pressure switches needed a special socket for the a common socket wrench to install - as they were a screwy shape/Diameter - trying to use pliers to install guaranteed yet another leaky sending unit ... As for what's / where is in these engines - I'm not 100% sure ..

    Good Luck !!

    (If I remember, I'll look in my 2002 service manual and re-post any info I find ...)

  • Hi thebigal.

    A Question for you (and others) if I may ?? My, purchased new, 2002 GMC Sonoma (now has only 48K mi) has been acting a little strange in the part few months (or may be it's just me being paranoid ??).

    The Front end / drive bearings seem to be getting louder - but it seems to come and go. Perhaps it's just age - and the cold in the winter in the NE. USA. One Front bearing was changed about 15K mile ago - and it seems no louder that the other (if for nothing more than a comparison.). The front drive train noise tends to come and go - perhaps with temperature - and perhaps with changes in asphalt ... And, as it's getting older - It's probably just me complaining about an aging truck ... So, my question is - is your front end drive train / bearing, etc. still a quiet as when you had purchased the truck (I assume new ??) .

    I did change tires some months ago (to Toyo) and there was a slight difference in road noise - but this issue has been bugging me for about a year. It comes and goes (to my poor hearing) - but I assume if there was something going - it would show itself after a number of months ... Otherwise I have no issues ..

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