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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • sammohamedsammohamed Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    Can some one please offer an opinion about buying a used 2001 corolla with 95,000 miles. What is a reasonable price for such a car? What should I look out for at the dealer's? What problems can I expect to have with this car, in terms of maintenance issues? Any recall issues with this model ever reported?

    any advice is appreciated.

    thanks

    Sam
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I own a 2001 LE with 55,000 miles on it and you'd have to offer me a pretty penny to get it off my hands. This car has been great to me. Never took it in for any scheduled maintenances, I just do all the oil and filter changes myself and also just drained and refilled the automatic tranny fluid. I might have had brakes replaced once or twice; other than that this car has been bullet proof. The only recall I had was the first month or two back in 2001 it was recalled for the belt tensioner to be replaced, no big deal. Great little car, expect to pay Kelly Blue Book or Edmunds retail value! Consider how much mileage you will put on it a year though. If taken care of, motor will take you over 150,000 miles.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    I would say 'stay away from 1998-2002 Corollas'. Most of these Corollas are OIL BURNERS.
    If you want reliability you should look into Corollas and Prizms of 1993-1997.
  • gindelm7gindelm7 Member Posts: 5
    I bought the Corolla with the Clunker tax. The Langhorne Toyota dealer had people waiting until past midnight to sign for these economical cars. With 11000 miles mine is having trouble starting. I don't know if it is the battery, starter, or computer. Had it back to the dealer, and of course they cannot replicate the problem. "somebody else played around with your battery," said the counter person to my wife. "No one else looked at it." After waiting for hours at their giant service center, they began trying to sell us other services that were not requested or warranted. "What do you want me to do when the car don't start again?" we asked. "That is not Toyota's problem." We should have bought the Elantra.....Anyone else having starting problems with their Toyota? :
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Hi gindelm7,

    That dealer seems to be a bad one.You bought a BRAND NEW car with warranty.
    Even battery is under warranty.Even the cheapest batteries come with 2-3 years free replacement warranties, Toyota factory installed ones should, too.

    Insist on getting service under warranty, if they do not want to help, write to Toyota's consumer department, give the dealer a hint...

    You do not have to buy a service you do not want to, again your car is a 2010 model year car, brand new.And under warranty.

    If possible, go to a different dealer service department.

    You can even return the car for a full refund, claiming lemon status, at least you can use this to force them to solve the problem.You can contact better business bureau too.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    You simply call them up from your cell phone when it won't start and have them tow it from the side of the road to their dealership. All is covered under the warranty, including the tow. I do however disagree with post #528; you can't just return your car for "lemon status" for a first time starting problem. If "lemon status" is that easily done, do you know how many people would have already returned their Corollas because of the EPS steering problem that is present on some of these cars? I think your car has to be in the shop for at least three times due to the same problem to begin to even think about "lemon status". Good luck! Keep us informed.
  • luckedriverluckedriver Member Posts: 2
    I am looking for someone in the Bend area that has a 1998 Corolla sedan that I can rent for a day. I need to recreate a driving sequence using a car similar to the one that was involved in an accident. Does anyone know of someone that may be interested? Do you know of any other place I could look to find Corolla owners? Thank you!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I doubt most people would risk a no-payout on insurance to rent you their car, but some of course will---so advertise on your local craigslist.

    also Rent a Wreck in Portland might have one.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Geez, I hope your kidding ! ! !
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    If you do advertise on craigslist, you'll want to be detailed with your wording or your ad there won't likely last long. The information you've provided here makes it sound like this:

    "I'm looking to rent a car just like the one that was involved in an accident, and I'm looking to drive it just like I did when I had the accident to see if I wreck again under the same circumstances. I'll pay $50 to borrow your car and you may or may not get it back in the same condition."

    I'm hoping that's not the actual situation, but that's the way people will read it if you don't explain.

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  • luckedriverluckedriver Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, now that I reread it, it does sound bad. All I need to do is drive the car in the same area at night to see what visibility is like. No damage will be done to the car. The owner could even drive it if they want. I'll keep looking, just thought people here would know other people with Corollas. Thanks!
  • jwu001jwu001 Member Posts: 1
    I have a question on warranty coverage on my new Corrolla, with comes with standard 3-year basic warranty and 2-year Toyota Care. Do they cover maintenance like auto detailing or other bodywork like dent removal, etc.?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Only if it's spelled out in your documentation. Must be listed.
  • marked1marked1 Member Posts: 15
    I think that the dealer was nice enough to show your dirty cabin filter.
    wouldn' t you continued breezing foul air off the the dirty filter if they didn't show it to you? plus, many people are not mechanically inclined at all, and not be able to
    replace the filter like you did.
  • gindelm7gindelm7 Member Posts: 5
    You were correct! The car didn't start a couple days after the dealer said it was not the battery. We called the dealer and they towed the car. Guess what? They now found a "bad cell" in the battery that was not there the first time. They offered to replace the battery with "whatever Toyota puts in 2010 corollas" OR we could possibly get a better battery (at higher cost.) We went with the replacement battery. The dealer needed to keep the car for TWO days to make sure that it would start over night. So that is 3 days to the dealer for a battery. I bet WALMART can beat that schedule! I did check if the battery was one of the several recalls on this car, but none were for batteries.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Don't know if I would call the dealer "nice" because he did his job? He'd be very neglectful if you paid him to do preventative maintenance and he didn't check this cabin filter. I'd call it a typical dealer rip-off for a 5 minute job. If you can open the cardboard box that this filter comes in, then you can install it; whether or not you choose to is your decision. Some people would rather donate the $40.00 to the dealer just to avoid a 5 minute job.
  • holidaylisaholidaylisa Member Posts: 4
    Hello Everyone! This is my very first post. I have had a few issues w/my breaks (pads mostly, i guess) and I wanted to ask for assistance. I purchased my car in 2005 from a dealer, it had 3,500 miles on it from a first owner who was "traveling out of the country". I never had any major issues with the car until this past Fall/Winter. I noticed the breaks becoming less reliable. I drive to the city every day, but I basically just put 2 miles in the city, most of the other way I drive is in the suberbs on semi-highway roads. Sometimes theres a lot of traffic, sometimes there isnt. Most of the time the other cars on the roads drive like crazy lunatics. Tailgating has become a daily ritual. I get very worried when a car is very close to me from behind (driving or at a red light). I've had two people hit my car from behind and it may be taking its toll (psychologically) on me. The last time was just this past July, we were 6 cars in the accident. The culprit was two cars -SUVs- behind me. I drive safely but also not too slow, not too fast. Just in between.
    Going back to the issue @ hand, the breaks of my car are giving me a hard time. After fixing the break past this past December 31st, I keep experiencing unreliable break motions. I have to break much earlier than before. The pads dont seem to be very strong. I always go to the Toyota Dealer for maintenance. In February and again just today (June) I have gone to the dealer so they can re-check the pads. Yesturday on my way home, everytime I'd press on the breaks I would have to press far too much down in order for me to feel the breaks doing its job. Also, Whenever I put the A/C on the breaks feel even worse!! I cant put the A/C on anymore! :( So today when I took it back in (just as what happened in Feb) the dealer tells me that the break pads are fine and they cleaned it and tightened it up for me. They looked all throughout the car and couldnt find any fault with the breaks. I asked them "Could it be something else perhaps!?!" They said they looked everywhere and did a test run for 2 miles and couldnt figure out what I was talking about because the breaks were "fine".
    Am I delusional ?! Does anyone else with a Corolla have the same issues as me?? My car has 58,500 miles on it. As I mentioned before I bought it with 3,500 miles.. I bought it in October 2005.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Putting on the A.C, increases engine RPM's. Therefore if your brakes are not grabbing as before it would make sense that the increased engine RPM's would even make it seem more so. However, if there was a problem with the brakes I believe a test drive would have confirmed this with the dealer. With your past driving history perhaps sudden braking might actually have been the initial problem with the original set of brake pads.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    On a car that's at least 6 years old (you didn't say what year it is) I would suspect a failing brake master cylinder.
    A weak master cylinder can act up intermittently.

    In the future have the brake fluid changed every 3 years (2 years with ABS).
    That will greatly extend the life of brake components.
  • holidaylisaholidaylisa Member Posts: 4
    What do you mean by "With your past driving history perhaps sudden braking might actually have been the initial problem with the original set of brake pads." ?? I don't stop suddenly, and never have.
  • holidaylisaholidaylisa Member Posts: 4
    I mentioned that I bought the car in 2005 with it having 3,500 miles on it.. i would assume you'd figure it was a 2005 Corolla w/my title as well ;)

    I'll have the dealer look at the master cylinder. I had an emissions inspection done on my car last week and it passed. I do put break fluid in my car and I have a bottle on hand.

    Btw, I used to have a 1990 Jetta (from when it was 9-15 years) and I know quite a bit about dealing w/older cars.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Don't take it personnal, but quoting your own words, you spoke of your erratic brake behavior, others tailgating you, being in two rear enders where you were hit from behind and possible physcological problems with braking and questioning if you are delusional with this braking issue. I thought perhaps there could be some kind of correlation between all of these episodes. Perhaps the initial brake pads were way too grabby attributing to some of these issues that you spoke of and actually the real culprit to start with. Maybe the brake pads you have on now are really the way your brake pads should be. In other words the real problem could have been the old set of pads not the new set.
  • holidaylisaholidaylisa Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2011
    Okay, I should tell you about the accidents..

    Both accidents occured during my drive into work. The first one was when I was on the left lane of a two part lane going one way when this lady in an SUV was trying to get to my lane from the right lane. She didnt wait for me to pass by (my lane was moving, hers was all stopped). I normally drive even slower, expecting people to try to get to my lane. But this woman just slammed on her gas pedal and obviously didnt look before trying to go to the left lane. The speed limit was 25 in that area. The woman hit me from the back side and back area. She either didnt see me or didnt pay attention. HER FAULT.

    The second accident, like I mentioned in my original posting, was a 6-car accident. And, like I mentioned, I was in the 3rd to the back row. So, three cars were ahead of me, and two were behind me. The front 5 cars were stopped (again, a 25 mile an hr area) when this lady in her SUV comes speeding from the light that was two blocks away. She was on her cell phone and wasnt paying attention. We were stopped for at least a minute or two before we all got hit (and hit each other). Again, NOT MY FAULT.

    I don't believe I mentioned ANYWHERE about my brake behavior being horrible!! If anything, I mentioned that it takes a while before my car comes to a complete stop when I press the breaks. If driving the speed limit and safely is crazy, then I guess I should drive like a maniac and tailgate other drivers!! NOT! Just yesturday I saw three SUVs flipped over- probably hit each other before going to the side ditch of the road. No thank you!! I'd rather drive safely! I live in a major city with too many crazy idiot drivers. Almost every day there are at least 2-3 accidents and people are always driving like they're playing a game on their x-box!
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I don't believe I mentioned ANYWHERE either, about your brake behavior being horrible!!

    I hope you resolve your brake issue.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    edited July 2011
    "i would assume you'd figure..."

    We all know what happens when you assume...
    However I see it's in the title, my bad.

    "I'll have the dealer look at the master cylinder"

    Nobody can tell if a master cylinder is bad just by looking at it.

    "I do put break fluid in my car"

    Topping off the reservoir is not the same as flushing out all the old fluid and replacing with new.
  • visch1visch1 Member Posts: 6
    I would suggest you become informed before using a KB about facts as opposed to just your dangerous opinion!
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    And I would suggest you just disregard my "dangerous opinions" as they were not intended for your reading anyway.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Not sure what's "dangerous" about suggesting that another member try to find an honest, qualified mechanic, and that the vehicle owner should make sure their vehicle is being maintained & repaired properly.

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  • visch1visch1 Member Posts: 6
    ANYTHING on the net is reading matter no matter how poorly informative it is. How does Transmission fluid get dirty at 30,000 miles. It might get burnt if you are having transmission problems but not dirty. “It might be a good thing to get it changed for viscosity purposes, but not dirt.”
    You must be a chemist, I never knew viscosity changed, thanks!

    “Even so, 30,000 miles seems way too soon for that.”
    And a auto engineer as well!
    “I certainly didn't know timing chains had oil leaks, or "O' rings for that matter.”
    Pray tell what gizmo is it that keeps most lubricants getting past shafts?
    “Why did you have your brakes replaced in the first place?”
    Some people are hard on brakes, but only Einstein would know that.
    “ Rotors should never have had to be replaced at just 30,000 miles.”
    Another real internet gem for misinformation.
    “Did you know they can be resurfaced for just a fraction of the cost to replace them.”
    Quite true, but do you know what specs they were within?
    “Also, brake fluid should never have to be changed unless it got corrupted with water, you would feel this in the firmness of the brake pedal.”
    Good maintenance advises changing brake fluid as it absorbs water from the air into the MC and will rust out the brake lines from within. Water is NOT compressible so will not be felt on the pedal. A soft pedal indicates air in the system.
    That’s enough about what I mean regards to misinformation on the internet
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I never knew viscosity changed, thanks!

    You just keep reading and you'll be surprised what you can learn from not just me, but most informed Toyota owners as well.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    > It might be a good thing to get it changed for viscosity purposes, but not dirt.

    What does this mean by viscosity changes?

    How does the viscosity change?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    After years and thousands of miles of the same fluid sitting in the bottom of your transmission it stands to reason newer fluid would not be subject to the constant changes in temperature,moisture content etc. that would all change the viscosity of the fluid. You don't have to be a "Chemist" to figure this out. Perhaps you feel it never needs changing ? ? ? ? If so, why else change it if it's not burnt ? ? ?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >the same fluid sitting in the bottom of your transmission it stands to reason newer fluid would not be subject to the constant changes in temperature,moisture content etc. that would all change the viscosity of the fluid.

    I still haven't seen anything to explain a viscosity change in transmission fluid. Is it hydroscopic? Changing temperature... how does that affect it other than overheating in which case there's a clear indication of need for change due to the additive package changing color.

    Transmission fluid doesn't have the same shearing of molecules as does engine oil, which does change viscosity--some.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • visch1visch1 Member Posts: 6
    “After years and thousands of miles of the same fluid sitting in the bottom of your transmission it stands to reason newer fluid would not be subject to the constant changes in temperature, moisture content etc. that would all change the viscosity of the fluid. You don't have to be a "Chemist" to figure this out.” I guess it’s true because you said so. Ok now I get it “act as if” even if it‘s wrong. Spread the internet truth! Check what the ATF viscosity is and what affects it. FYI viscosity is for the purpose of measuring flow.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Whatever floats your boat man! I wouldn't change it then.
  • visch1visch1 Member Posts: 6
    Good on ya! I'm gonna go throw out my throw out bearing, it's got 50 K on it,
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Sounds good, go for it !
  • continuecontinue Member Posts: 1
    On the 09-newer Corolla there is another place under the hood where mice can enter the cabin area of the car: Look down behind the engine where the grey A/C lines pass through the firewall. Just above the lines where the poorly placed foam is supposed to seal off the hole, there is just enough gap in the foam for a mouse to squeeze through. Plug it off with silicone.
  • bilsafbilsaf Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have 2001 Toyota, Corolla. it has 104,000miles. last time I had tune up was in 60K miles. Should I get tune up done now that it has hit over 100k miles. What should tune-up include? Also, I recently had breaks replaced, tires changed second time, first changed them at 50K, since then when ever I break very fast, push break to the end it makes knocking noise like 'tuck, tuck' I showed it to couple of mechanics and a transmission specialist they have no idea what that noise is from. I would appreciate if someone can help me.

    I love the car, bought it brand new in 2000, no accidents, it has been so good to me, great with gas.

    Thank u so much!!
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    "What should tune-up include?"

    The Owner's Manual is the place to start.
    Beware of extras that shops recommend, like "induction service".

    See my last post here:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f2552d7/12
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Okay, I give up ! What's an induction service? Is that where they "induct" you into the Toyota Hall of Fame?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited July 2012
    They spray Magic Fluid into your intake to clean your already clean injectors and dissolve non-existent carbon in your engine so that you're already smooth running engine will run smoother and your gas mileage will go up but not enough for NASA to measure. :P $150 please.
  • allen74allen74 Member Posts: 5
    edited October 2013
    Hi all:

    What are the negative consequences, if any, of putting 4 quarts exactly of full synthetic oil into my 2010 Toyota Corolla instead of 4.4 quarts (which my owner's manual says is the capacity).

    Will it damage my car? I am a bit of a novice in this area, so any information and advice would be appreciated.

    FYI: 1.8L engine.

    Thanks!!

    (asking it here because it may be more on topic)
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    No negatives other than you will be a half a quart less than full. Curious as to why you wouldn't want to top it off? If the motor is made to run optimumly on 4.4 qts. why not fill it with 4.4qts.?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    edited October 2013
    I assume because you don't want to buy an extra quart of expensive synthetic oil?

    2 things:

    1. If you are still in the powertrain warranty period (5 years, 60,000 miles), don't bother with synthetic - waste of money. You have to change the oil every 5,000 or 6 months to keep the warranty valid, so synthetic makes no sense financially.
    Now, starting with the 2011 model year Corollas, they have the 1 year, 10,000 mile oil change interval with full synthetic.

    2. If the oil level is within the marks on the dipstip, you are fine, BUT if something would happen to use/leak oil, and you are not up to the top full line on the dipstick, then you have even less oil that you can lose before you have a very bad situation (oil starvation). But no real problems IF the oil level is between the marks. You would definitely want to check your oil more often, just in case. But this engine is EXTREMELY reliable.
  • allen74allen74 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks dawg.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Dump another half quart of oil into the car and don't worry about it for another 7000/8000 miles. Don't be so cheap! Do you really want to take a chance on engine damage for a half can of oil for $5.00 ? ? ? ? ? Full synthetic is the best for your Corolla.
  • allen74allen74 Member Posts: 5
    I've driven my car for about two days now. Can I still put in the new 0.4 quart in without doing damage?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Absolutely, you can add oil to your car anytime you need it. Pull out your dipstick with the yellow top on it to see if the oil mark is in the shaded area of the dipstick, if it is your good, if not add some oil.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    Running it full will let the oil run a little cooler and contamination will be diluted 10% more.
    Those things are just as helpful as running synthetic vs dino, IMHO; especially in an engine that doesn't even need syn.
    Back when I had my '75 Civic my mechanic friend at the dealer suggested running ~1/2 qt over full on highway trips.
    The margin was there.
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