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Mitsubishi Outlander

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  • billyybillyy Member Posts: 11
    I am in Canada too. thinking to get the LS with Conver Pkg. I also wanna find out beside the car price. what else fees you guys paid? And any suggetion that what pice for this LS.Conver pkg model will be a good price??? :confuse:
  • rdenisrdenis Member Posts: 9
    Not sure about US models but I just picked up my Canadian 07 XLS in Vancouver yesterday and indeed it does have heated mirrors. They are activated by pressing the rear defrost button and turn on for about twenty minutes. While they do not show up in any spec sheets I have seen, they are discussed and explained in the Canadian owner manual. I don't know if they are available in models other than the XLS, perhaps someone else can confirm.

    Another way to check is to look at your fuse box and descrips - the heated mirrors have a dedicated fuse (7.5 amp I believe) - can't remember if it is located on the sub fuse panel or under the hood but its specified in the owner's manual.
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    I think $500-$600 over the invoice would be a fair price. Other fees and taxes:
    A/C tax - $100
    Gas tax - $75
    Freight/PDI - $1,345
    Administration fee: $200 - $400 but this depends on the dealer. I would try to waive this one. It's pure dealer profit.
    License and registration - I think it depends on the province, but in Ontario is less than $100.
    Don't forget the tax on top of everything.
    If you finance, they may charge you some additional administration fee ($65 I remember paying on my last car) which supposedly covers the bank paper work.
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    Did you try them? This would be really weird of Mitsubishi.
  • growwisegrowwise Member Posts: 296
    I concur. Pressing the defrost button activates heated sideview mirrors. Confusion came about because there is no defrost symbol on the mirror. Now its cleared.
  • rdenisrdenis Member Posts: 9
    Yep they work - minus 6 this morning and they cleared right up - as noted above most of the confusion seems to lie with no symbol on the mirrors.
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    ... Nor mention in the Mitsu specs. But if it's there, it's great.
  • tifightertifighter Member Posts: 3,782
    On the Mitsu site, the specs page shows the LS AWD as coming with heated seats.

    Specs Website

    It's under the 'Seating' tab.

    It is not listed anywhere else on their site, or on Edmunds, Etc. Seems odd that there is no other confirmation as most companies usually make big deal about this feature. Can any of you LS owners confirm if it does come with heated seats standard?

    25 NX 450h+ / 24 Sienna Plat AWD / 23 Civic Type-R / 21 Boxster GTS 4.0 / 03 Montero Ltd

  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    While shopping for a new SUV, I have always been adamant about NOT getting a black leather interior due to how hot it gets in the summer.

    Now, having nearly decided on purchasing an Outlander XLS with most of the bells and whistles, and seeing the color combinations with light colored leather interior severely limited, and not really liking the color "beige" anyway, I was curious..........

    Of those who have the black leather interior who were a bit concerned about how hot it would get in the summer, has the dark colored leather worked out for you? Has it not been as bad in the summer as you thought it might be?

    (I'm down to two choices to make for a new Outlander XLS with luxury package: (1) silver with charcoal leather OR dark blue with beige leather, and (2) navigation package OR no navigation package. By the way, the silver roof rails match pretty closely with the silver exterior paint, as I saw at a dealer earlier today.)

    Bud H
  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    I'm seriously considering getting a 2007 Outlander XLS 4WD, despite my having always following the "never buy a newly redesigned model in its first year" dictum in the past.

    So as a compromise to myself, I'd like to ensure that any XLS 4WD I might buy was made at the factory in the last few months and not back in the summer of '06!

    Is there any way to tell from the last 5 or 6 digits of the VIN identification number if it is a relatively recent vehicle or whether it is one of the first '07s made?

    (As an example of one I looked at today -- the VIN is JA4MT41X67U011948 and the sticker on the driver door's frame shows a November 2006 manufacturer month for a white 2007 Outlander XLS 4WD with luxury package, navigation package, and sun and sound package.)

    Bud H
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The 10th character (from the left!) gives information about the model year. Starting in 1980 with a code of "A" they cycle first through the alphabet then the digits 1 through 9. This process would repeat for later years. The letters I, O and Q are excluded as well as the numeral 0.

    Thus, a 2007 model would have (coincidentally) the digit 7 in the 10th position and that is what you see in your example.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think you've been reading Kirstie_h 's How to Decode VIN Numbers Guide. :shades:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Well now that is handy! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    My interest is in those last six digits -- how large does the six digit number represented by the last six digits of the VIN need to be to ensure the 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS 4WD rolled off the assembly line during calendar year 2007?

    Perhaps someone who special ordered one and recently received it might let me in on what the VIN and month of manufacture were.

    Bud H
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That's a little harder to find out! The last six digits are the "serial" number but not all manufacturers handle it quite the same way. E.g., some will start with 000001 incrementing with each unit produced and then restart the count at 000001 with the start of a new model years. Others will simply start up where they left off in the previous model year.

    I don't happen to know offhand how Mitsubishi does it but Steve provided a link to Kirstie's guide. I recommend using it because her guide has a link that will do a full decoding for you.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    To be sure just ask the dealer.
  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    I have ZERO interest in the third row seat which I am forced to purchase with my impending Outlander XLS 4WD purchase.

    Is there any way I could remove this third row seat, and allow reinstallation at a later time? And would the empty space be somewhat useful for underfloor storage space?

    Bud H
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    I too didn't want the bitty seat. now, I am using it to hang wet jogging togs and as a baffle to set in 3 or 4 grocery bags...The seat back holds them firmly in place...
    I talked to the service manager about removing it at a later time and he said it would be no problem There are no welds and/or permanent attachments but you will need some plugs for the empty holes after removal...
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    The dealer can see the exact manufacturing date of your car. You could see the manufacturing months on the sticker located on the B-pilar on the driver side of the car.
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    I don't have use for the 3rd row seats too, so it stays stowed most of the time. I don't think there is much storage space in lieu of that seat. I just leave it stowed until the time I would be needing it. I don't want to re-assemble things when I needed to take 6 other people for a ride. I don't have obese friends so the 3rd row seat will seat 2 just fine. It won't be the best seat in the car though.
  • jowettjowett Member Posts: 12
    Is it possible to remove the 2nd row seats instead of tumbling them forward?
  • deweywinsdeweywins Member Posts: 4
    Anyone else seen this?

    From a stop, especially when facing up a hill, the steering wheel yanks to the right on acceleration.

    XLS in 2WD.
  • rmj1rmj1 Member Posts: 9
    Sounds like typical front wheel drive pull to me.
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    That's normal torque steer...
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    Leaving it in 4WD Auto mode avoids torque steer for me.
  • pacosanpacosan Member Posts: 7
    Seems that the retro valve that maintains constant hydraulic pressure on the brake pads is not working. When pads wear down they'll take less space. The hydraulic system should compensate and maintain pads in constant contact with disk no matter how deep pads are worn down. This way pads will not vibrate/rattle against seats and disk.
    You will notice that the brake pedal travel gets longer as pads wear down. This shouldn't happen if the retro valve that maintain constant pressure does what it supposed to do.
    So have your brake shop check on this. It may be the absolute cure to the annoying :sick: disk brakes rattles.
    Hope this helps.
    Anyone out there done this? Any Mitsubishi shop?

    Note: As pads wear down, you can notice that the brake fluid reservoir also goes down. Reservoir seems to need refill but it doesn't. If you bring it back to "full" it will overflow when new pads are installed.
  • mirde98mirde98 Member Posts: 95
    Hey everyone, could anyone tell me what can i use to clean my 06 Lancer's SE Alcantara seats. All i find is to clean leather, vinyl or cloth. I do know Alcantara is kinda delicate....PLEASE HELP!! :confuse:
  • axsomaxsom Member Posts: 11
    I have had black leather in a previous vehicle. To be honest, I don't really think it matters whether it is black or beige. Leather gets hot in the summer regardless of its color. The hottest moment is the instant you sit your fanny down - once the air conditioning has cooled things down, all is good.

    I wouldn't make your final decision based on which gets most hot - black or beige leather. I would go with something more important for your needs.

    Now, if you were choosing between black or beige fabric, I would go w/the beige fabric. I looked at the Outlanders in early '06. I did not like the feel of their fabric (don't know if the '07 model is different). I did notice there were very few with the beige option. I didn't like the dark because it showed EVERY piece of lint! Due to the type of fabric it was, you couldn't brush it off w/your hand. It was as if it were velcro.

    Good luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    2007 Mitsubishi Outlander: Extolling the Virtues

    image
  • djnmandjnman Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased an 07 Outlander XLS with luxury package. The fog lights act as daytime driving lights. When you turn on the low beam head lights the fogs go off. I verified that the high beams weren't on. I am in USA and there isn't a separate fog light switch on the stalk. Can someone verify that this is how their similarly equipped unit works? Can the fog lights be programmed by the owner or otherwise dealer to work with the low beams?
    Thanks....
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    The factory hitch is a class III hitch rated to tow 3500 lbs, but I agree that I wouldn't try to tow 2 horses with this. (I'll be towing about 1500 lbs with a snowmobile trailer and sleds) BTW: The factory ball mount will hit the tailgate if lowered. If you get a normal ball mount from U-HAUL, etc with it inverted to step-up a few inches it will clear the tailgate so you can open it. I guess some people
    want to leave it installed all the time and not hurt knees, but it's a stupid design. (remove the ball mount and stow it when not in use)
  • 20vcq20vcq Member Posts: 82
    I am interested to know if anyone finds the automatic just a little annoying on down shifts? When mine down shifts say to third the revs increase as they should but when the throttle is held steady rather than depressing it further the transmission acts as if that gear has an over drive setting and the car loses about 400 rpm. Then one must depress the gas further and that causes a further downshift and the same thing in the next gear. Annoying doesn't describe it on a long days drive.
    The mechanic has "reprogrammed the memory" or blanked it out and had me drive it hard for two "drive cycles" to reset to my driving style as he put it. No real change so anyone else find this annoyance? Thanks in advance for your responses.
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    Keep in mind that this is a worldwide forum, so we don't all have the same transmissions. My US-spec 6 speed automatic works great.
  • rickymajkarickymajka Member Posts: 2
    does anybode heard the noise in Air condition compressor? it´s turn off and on the compressor every 20 or 30 seconds.
    :mad:
  • pacosanpacosan Member Posts: 7
    Sorry. Mine doesn't yet have intermittent air cond compressor noise. But the radiator fan works intermittently, regardless of engine temperature or air speed. Fan intermittency also happens for a few minutes after the engine is turned off. :(
  • lrg355lrg355 Member Posts: 3
    I am glad to see that someone else noticed that. I thought I may be having some sort of "surging issue". I had considered questioning the dealer but havent had time.
  • hyundai_hellhyundai_hell Member Posts: 2
    Do you have the high discharge headlights? If so the lights in the front bumper are not foglights, they are daytime safety lights. I went through this same thing and had to get schooled by the dealer. The foglights are supposedly not needed with the HD headlights. Quick visual check - the lenses of foglights are smooth, the lenses of the DSL are patterned.
  • ultraradultrarad Member Posts: 16
    So here's my dilemma-

    There is a beautiful 2007 XLS 2WD silver outlander shouting my name from the dealer close to my house (it has NAV, SUN AND LUX). I offered $26K OTD and am waiting for a reply. I just saw a new 2008 today and am wondering if I should get the AWD 2008 XLS version instead? I live in Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas and we don't have a lot of bad weather, but when it rains here, it pours.

    I guess I can't decide whether the extra 140+ pounds for the AWD is going to make the vehicle slower, or safer? I'm not truly concerned about the mileage - my current acura legend coupe only gets like 18mpg. What do you people think? Less money and older car, or more money and newer automobile?

    Also, this is my first car purchase - i've always been given hand-me-downs prior to this.

    I also wanted to tell you all that you are the most dedicated car enthusiasts I've ever seen. It's kind of neat to see so many people in love with their cars. Not even Toyota's do that to their owners (probably because they are all drooling on their shirt-fronts, after eating strained beets and changing their depends...lol)

    Thanks for any advice...
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    Go with the 2008 4WD XLS ...I've had my 2007 4WD up here in Colorado for the last 4 months and it is performing awesome on the backroads that are only recommended for Jeeps.....In the rain it pulls out from the stoplights with no spin......Took her over Monarch Pass in the snow last week and she was surefooted even with the stock Goodyears......No buyers remorse here....

    GO WITH THE 4WD.......

    NUFF SAID.....
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    I would go with the 2008 XLS. They changed the door panels/handles (nicer) and the FAST key remote (smaller).
  • tcp2tcp2 Member Posts: 66
    in regards to the 400 RPM drop after a gear change, that is the torque converter locking up again. It seems to lock up in 4-6th gear on the automatic(maybe in 3 as well, but I haven't paid attention). It has to unlock on each actual shift, then relock once it is in the next gear so what you are seeing is not an actual shift, but the converter relocking after each shift. Try to look at the road and not worry about what the tach is indicating.
  • ultraradultrarad Member Posts: 16
    Okay -

    thanks for all the advice. I'm going, today, to talk to my dealer about a 2008 4WD XLS in silver - with everything I want. I'm going to offer him a little over invoice (cash) and see if he takes it. I'm sure I'll have to haggle, but they're still going to make money. I'll let everyone know what's up with the 2008 models.
  • nolidognolidog Member Posts: 4
    Solo:

    I am also Colorado and plan to head out next Saturday in search of an 07 XLS AWD with sun,& lux. Any dealerships recommendations or other tips?

    Thanks

    DjC
  • ultraradultrarad Member Posts: 16
    Okay Outie fans-

    I talked the salesguy down to 31K OTD for a new 2008 4WD XLS with sun, nav and lux. That's like five hundred over invoice (+sales tax here in Texas - yuck) The new fastkey looks a lot like the nissan intellikey thingy - it's thinner in width but now chunkier in overall thickness. The new door panels have the same finish as the dashboard and the pattern continues all the way to the back seats - the XLS has chrome handles on ALL four doors with new surrounds. The XLS also has really nice new machined wheels which have like seven or eight spokes - I can't remember how many. They look a bit more expensive, IMO, since they are not painted and have a nice, clean machined look to them.

    I didn't buy the car, however, since it was 250 miles from the dealership and my salesman was going to have to go get it and drive it back - I am really worried about breaking the car in correctly. I did get a chance to drive a 4WD LS model and was definitely surprised to actually FEEL a difference between 2WD and 4WD. The car truly drove like a nice German sedan - which was great - and while the car could have used a bit more horsepower, I never felt like I was lumbering along like a turtle. I did see some wear and tear on the 4WD version we drove, since it was a used model, and noticed that the silver "color" around the vents and shifter tends to wear poorly. Other than that - the car drove great and had 10,000 miles on it.

    So, this is my two cents - I'm probably going to call back and reserve the car, but just thought I'd let everyone know about the 2008...wish me luck!!
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    I bought my XLS in Houston....I have a residence there and also here in Colorado...... I have the base XLS that I paid invoice for in Dec, 06,,,,,
    Tip?....Try to get them to throw in the towing package free...Use it as a bargaining tool..,,,,
    ,Have fun amongst all the Subaru Foresters in Colorado....The Outtie will walk away from them with ease....The Forester Turbo?....It's a wash....

    Good luck....
  • tifightertifighter Member Posts: 3,782
    The Outtie will walk away from them with ease....The Forester Turbo?....It's a wash....

    How so? Can't be in performance, so I am curious to hear what I am missing...

    25 NX 450h+ / 24 Sienna Plat AWD / 23 Civic Type-R / 21 Boxster GTS 4.0 / 03 Montero Ltd

  • matrsoskinmatrsoskin Member Posts: 32
    "The Outtie will walk away from them with ease....The Forester Turbo?....It's a wash...."
    Disagree: have you driven your Outtie at a highway speed of 75 mph?
    I did it a couple of months ago. It was brand new, 2007 XLS AWD. Once the speed reached 75 mph, the steering wheel began vibrating badly. It feels exactly like I was driving an U-Haul 14-footer truck. Could be the front wheel misalignmet. But the steering had also become very loose: I could turn the steering wheel up to 15 degrees in each direction and the wheels would stay straight-up. The steering remained quite tight at the slower speeds. Apparently, Toyota 4Runner has the same vibration problems at 75 mph and that is not related to the front wheel alignment (see the respective Toyota forums).
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I've had mine (LS) over 90 MPH and it feels solid, no vibration, wandering, or anything.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    Something was wrong with that Outlander, mine doesn't vibrate at high speed and the steering is responsive to small movements. 10,000 miles so far.
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    I have driven my Outlander at speeds of 95mph, luckily I wasn't caught. No vibrations, pulling left or right, steering was very responsive. If you got "play" with the steering, then obviously there is a problem. 75mph is just a "walk" for the Outlander. And at that speed I can switch from 2WD to 4WD on the fly.
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