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GM Engine Knock



  • I dont know if anyone else has had the same experience that I've had with my "knocker", but here's what I've done from the maintenance side of the issue and it has helped. I would describe my 2001 1500 Z71 as more of a cold start "ticker" and not as much a "knocker". The sound started when the engine hit around 10K miles. I now have 30K miles on it and it does not use any oil between changes. I complained to the dealer, and got the same run around everyone else is getting. I decided to experiment with a few things to see if there was anything that helped and here's what I found, at least for my truck. Two things I've done that have helped, if not completeley stopped the cold start tick:

    1. I switched to Mobil 1 oil in the heavy weight (15W something) in the summers and use 10W-30 during the winter months. The owners manual says to not use any oil heavier than 20W something, so I figure 15W should be ok...either the change in brand (Mobil) or oil weight did help just a bit by reducing the perceived noise upon cold start cranking. I ran the cheap Valvoline oil before switching to Mobil 1 synthetic, and it was definately a louder nose the engine produced, especially after a fresh oil change. I've also noticed that the more miles on the oil change, the less the noise. A fresh oil change seems to make it more noticeable for a week or so. When using the 5W-30 Mobil 1, the noise is back, so I think the cold start cranking viscocity is not good for eliminating the noise. Using the heavier weight oils helped reduce the engine noise, but did not eliminate it completeley.

    2. Upon cranking the motor, I immediately put the transmission in to reverse (or drive) as I back out of the carport. There is no ticking sound if the motor stays at a "lower than idle" RPM in my truck. This has helped more than anything to eliminate the ticking noise. It is normally completely eliminated.

    3. I also let the engine warm up a bit before hitting the road. My driveway is about 100 yards long, so i just let the truck idle down the drive. Upon turning onto the road, I give it about another 100 yards of idling until picking up speed.

    I know it sounds like a pain, and it is, but it's the only way I've found to keep the motor from making the dreaded ticking or knocking noise. I like the truck otherwise and have no other complaints, otherwise I would trade it in for something else. I do have the 100K mile extended warranty, so if the motor blows or otherwise tears up, so be it...i'll probably go with a diesel for my next truck purchase anyway...

    my .02 cents worth........

  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Mine developed around 17k and w/36k on ticker it still knocks, ticks, bangs or whatever for first minute during cold start. I look for the oil pressure gauge to respond let it run for a couple minutes then I'm on my way. As some have called it this issue is an anoyance and will probably be with the truck till I part with it in 5 or 6 more years. I also have the the extended component warranty from GM which would be a test in itself if I ever had to use it. GM will turn up the GM B.S. spin cycle and dance around before ever honoring it I'm sure.
    My biggest complaint with the condition will be during resale since it is a deterent when selling a vehicle to have the engine knocking no matter what warranty you have .
    I just purchased an Extended Service Plan that covers me on everything till 100k then I move on to another truck.

    Ray T.
  • gator36gator36 Posts: 294
    I just saw this one,

    Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)


    4.8, 5.3, 5.7 or 6.0 V8 Engines...

  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Do you have the full TSB, I'll go in to dealer with guns loaded if I have the TSB in hand. They said they would call me when a fix came from GM, I won't wait for that call.

    Ray T.
  • jtt3jtt3 Posts: 20
    Here is a site that lists TSB's and I don't know how often it is updated so maybe keep an eye on it. Click on different months and then bulletins.

  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    The TSB is not listed there nor yet on All Data

    Ray T.
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    Has anyone had experience with a knocking engine failing. I spoke with a friend yesterday whose brother in law has a 2001 5.3L which failed in his Silverado at 67,000 miles. One of the connecting rods broke. GM apparently says "too bad". The guy could live with that except he had purchased a GM extended warranty to 60,000.
  • gator36gator36 Posts: 294
    Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)
    Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)
    2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro

    2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette

    2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird

    2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

    2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

    2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

    2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

    2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

    2001-2003 GMC Sierra

    with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)

    Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).

    The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.

    Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

    Parts Information
    Part Number

    Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

    (F and Y Cars)

    Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

    (C/K Trucks)

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
    Labor Time

    Pickup Tube and Screen - Replace
    F Car
    3.7 hrs

    Y Car
    4.3 hrs

    C Truck
    1.3 hrs

    K Truck
    2.1 hrs

    GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    GM was handing out Extended Component Warranties for the engine knock issue like candy to those who documented and bitched enough, did you friend get one??? If so he is covered, if not he may still have a case but needs proof GM was appeasing us whiners. I can e-mail him a copy of my letter if he needs some ammunition to fight the corporate dogs.
    This is the first reported failure I have heard of with the Chevy Knockerado's.

    Gator, thanks for the full lsting on that TSB for our knockers.

    Ray T.
  • gator36gator36 Posts: 294
    You didn't hear it from me.....
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    I was considering trading in my 2000 Chevy S-10 with a smooth 4.3 V-6 for a 2003 Silverado.

    I've followed this discussion for months, and I was under the impression that they had fixed the problem in 2003 engines.

    The TSB listed above specifically includes 2003 models. NOW I don't know if I should take the plunge.

    Does anyone have a 2003 Chevy V-8 that has started making the noise?

  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    I meant to ask about the 4.8 or 6.0 engines.....

  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Try here for latest info if you haven't already.

    I believe I read a post about a 03 having the knock not long ago. So yes the knock is still an issue (annoyance) of some trucks, it's a toss of the dice whether yuou get one or not. All in all I still would buy another Chevy Truck cuz I'm partial to them but they need to resolve their production line problems with these engines.

    Ray T.

  • I drive a '99 sierra z71 and I bought it used. It has knocked ever since i bought it (now w/ 48000 mi.). It only knocks/ticks for a few seconds upon cold start. I think this is because their is no oil in the valves after sitting all night. But the main knock is in overdrive at 40-50 mph. At this time it sounds like it is running sick. I can control the noise by increasing throttle which causes the noise. Premium fuel has not helped I guess I am about to try switching oils as it is about due for an oil change, any suggestions? Mobil 1 syntheyic? please give me some feedback concerning this.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    On the next occurance of your ping try downshifting to 3. I think your problem will disappear. Seems like your truck is straining in the wrong gear. The dealer can reprogram your trans to have it downshift a little sooner to get rid of most of the ping.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Remember you changed to a larger tire size which in effect lowered your gear ratio. This will effect a few things along the lines of how it responds. The engine with it like alot of us do and visit the website I posted about, alot of info on the knock issue there. The pinging could be related to a bad anit-knock sensor, your timing is off, the larger tires or combination of all. Either buy a HP3 Programmer and make your changes for the bigger tires and trans shift points or have a dealer do it for you.

    Ray T.
  • what is that site?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    You only had to scroll back to post 269 to get there! Come on man get with the program !!! Here's the site again,

  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    Even with my GM discount, $1,600 earnings on my GM card, $500 dealer cash thrown in and a $3,250 rebate for GM buyers, I didn't take the plunge.

    If I had bought a truck that started knocking in 100-500 miles, I couldn't stand it. The dealer said he heard they are making significant changes on the 2004 engines. I'll wait and see.....

    I'll wait til they get the bugs worked out of them.

  • Do the dealers ignore big knockers (they've always been hard to ignore for me) or do they tell you that your knocker is worth less because of possible engine problems? Bet those negotiations could get interesting when GM has been telling you that the knockers aren't a problem until they are about to own and then try to resell one. If you try to sell the knocker yourself, what do you tell the potential buyer when he hears it? I've been driving chevys since '75, but switched to Dodge in '00. Can't believe they haven't fixed this issue yet.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    To me you raise the more important issue. As Chevrolet claims, durability may indeed not be affected. But, how much value is lost by that noise? Would an informed buyer buy a vehicle that sounded like that without a significant discount? Has anyone out there tried to sell one of these things?

  • Personally, I wouldn't buy one that had even the potential to knock. That's the main reason I switched to Dodge. One that already has an audible knock has got to be tough to get rid of. How long can Chevy continue to build these things before their last buyer has one?

    If I was a Chevy stockholder, I'd be extremely pi$$ed. Matter of fact, I'm extremely pi$$ed that Chevy won't be an option next year when I'm in the market. What the he11 are they thinking? A mistake here and there is understandable, but to continue to build these tapping nightmares with their collective heads buried firmly in the sand is inexcusable.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    just make sure the engine is well warmed up before anyone looks at it. (or hears it run)
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    that GM sold a record 2.9 million trucks in 02.
  • Guess I wouldn't have a problem doing that at a GM dealer, but selling direct to an individual would be a little tougher. When "Joe Average", his wife, and 2.25 kids comes to your house to look at your truck, are you not going to tell him everything that you know about your truck?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    to sell my knocker I'll be sure to let the buyer know the histroy and if I off it before 100k I'll transfer the 7yr/100k ESP I have on the truck as part of the deal. To not tell a private buyer is not an option, I like to think I was raised with good moral & ethical values, to do otherwise just makes you as bad as a sleezy car saleman, and remember the guy who you don't tell knows where you live !

    Ray T.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Well said. Too much in the world already. We got here by increments and by increments
    is ethics restored.

  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    I can tell you I was lied to by Customers on many occasions. And BTW, I discovered you can't make a living as an honest Car Salesman.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    exactly my point, more and more people in this world have NO morale values anymore.
    If I were to trade the vehicle in, it would be up to the dealer to verify what he got. GM having known in advance about the "knockers" I'm sure would be cautious to take back a knocker or give you proper trade value although according to corporate the knocking is normal to them at the time we bought these slugs, that's a whole different story though.
    Selling privately your best to remember the person could come back to haunt you, or worse yet he could have no ethics or values and come back to trash your car/truck/house for that matter if you rip him off !

    I give credit to those sales people who do the right thing, it's not an easy living but by their own choosing. The dirtbag sales people get their just deserts in the end.

    Ray T.
  • kg11kg11 Posts: 530
    with trading it in at the dealer I bought it from is I'd hafta get another GMC.If I get 100k out of it I'll be disappointed not to collect on the warranty.I don't expect it to be worth much when I'm done with it.

This discussion has been closed.