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Comments
Unless it is quite extreme, I'd say it's normal - and no, I don't work at a dealer!!!
I was even told that they would deliver the truck the 200 miles and pick up their rental.
Still don't know what the problem was w/ the trans and will have to wait to see if they hold up their bargain. At least my father can advertise the wonderful service that I didn't receive at Yemm Chevrolet in Galesburg.
If not... I will have to contact the BBB, Attorney General, maybe a file a claim in small claims court....
I did talk to the Service Manager from the dealer I purchased from and he could believe the crap that was going on. He did contact his regional manager to see if he could assist me. Can't complain about that service, especially since he's too far to get my service business (Chicago to Neenah Wi.
Why driving to Neenah WI is to have the service done doesn't make sense. If I buy a GM for my wive, I would have no problem driving from Chicago to purchase from that dealer (Bergstrom's - nice people to do business with).
Also, still waiting for that return phone call from Chevy Customer (non) assistance - she was going to follow up Wednesday and that is even after two messages that was left to remind her.
Just traded in my 99 Rado Z-71, 5.3 for an '02 Rad Z-71, 5.3. Got everything I wanted too... locker, autotrac, power seats... a lot of nice goodies.
Two problems. The truck came with factory "rough finish" black flares. I backed up next to the wifes tahoe and pulled the right rear fender flare half way off. DAMN! Does anyone know the partnumber of this so I can look it up? Also, any good tips on where to replace it? The dealer said $238 for ONE replacement and I said forget it, I will pull the others off if that is the best it can be.
Another question I had is does anyone have the part number to the tan color fold out cup assembly? I got the number of the graphite one, but I have a tan truck and need that number. I really like the cupholder from my 99 and would like to put one in my 2002.
If anyone can help me, please email to msb19981998@yahoo.com
Thanks guys,
Matthew
PS - my 99 had 55K on it, went through many states, hauled a lot of loads, played in the mud, pulled others out, and still was a dang nice, "near new" truck when it went to the dealer. That was a good 'un and I will remember it fondley...
Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
Driveline Clunk 2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models.
This bulletin is being revised to add model Years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
Important
The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with
excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect
durability or performance.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
1) The seatbelts lock routinely on normal stops. I come to a lot of 2-ways here in Texas. When I try to lean forward for a better view of the traffic, I get held up by the seatbelt. I have to come to a complete stop and let the truck settle for a bit before the belt will release me. Sometimes I still need to shake it loose. Sometimes it even locks while I pull it out to buckle. It seems to me the belt is a little too easy to lock. Is this either common or adjustable?
2) The "check coolant level" message comes on occasionally shortly after starting. It stays until the truck has been shut off. The first time my dealer told me that a bubble sometimes forms on the sensor, and I should ignore it unless I see the engine temp rise. It happens about every 2 or 3 months.
3) The HVAC fan blows no air on setting 1. I get airflow through the system when the truck moves (which is the difference between off and 1) but when I stop, the airflow noticeable ceases too. Is this by design, or is it a fan problem?
I know these problems are minor compared to tranny failure or piston slap, but I'd like to know if they are typical or correctable. This is the best place I know of to get a straight answer.
2. The only time I've had the 'Check Coolant Level' light come on, was when I parked on the shoulder of the road with the passenger side lower than the driver's side. I added about 1" of water to the reservoir, and no more warnings.
3. Mine blows gently on setting 1. I get much more air when the truck is moving than by the blower.
Mike L
I have the following problems with my truck.
1) Hard idle. (Almost since new. Dealer says it's normal)
2) If I pork the engine I don't get the power that I should and I get a loud knocking noise. (same gas. Problem just started in the last month)
3) Service 4wd light came on this week. The light doesn't stay on consistently and the dealer says they can't do anything if the light isn't on and they can't duplicate the problem.
4) The transmission can't figure out what to do when I'm keeping a constant speed between 30 and 50 mph. The whole truck stutters as the transmission seems to keep changing gears.
5) Rust under the door where the truck was hit in an accident. The body work was done by the dealer, but they won't admit that it's their faulty work. "It's from newer damage."
I love my truck, but I'm loosing faith in it. Can't figure out if I should spend a butt load of cash on getting it where it needs to be or take advantage of my dealers add of $1k under invoice + the $3k cash back. I hate to pay the $1300 in excise tax for something new + increased insurance, but I'll probably pay that to get mine fixed. But if I buy a new one it'll be an upgrade to the 2500 and the crew cab. Do I sound like I'm waffling? I guess I am.
I'm looking for some feedback on the problems I'm having and whether or not there's been a dramatic change to the 02' model. I don't want the 03' because the 99' was a new model year and I had a bunch of things go wrong just because they hadn't dialed in their program.
got it from http://www.performanceproducts.com
One gallon at PP.com for $43.95
Before 303
After 303
Like the console door cover, but.....
I have the console as well, and the buckets with the armrests. However, what bugs me is that if you use the chair armrest for your right arm, and then put your left arm on the door armrest, you don't sit symmetrically. Your right arm will be closer to your side than your left. I feel all crooked..........
What I want to do is find a cushion that will go where your little decal goes, such that it makes a big padded armrest that will be the same height as the chair armrests, then I can spread out my right arm and get some cooling under there!!! Have you ever seen anything like that?? I may have an upholstery shop make one to my own design if I can't find one.
BTW - how does that fancy decal stick on to that textured console door???
am70043
I have Michelin LTX/MS 275/70R16.
Rear husky liners
Hans
As for the upholstry i have seat covers and they are velcroed in the back. Nothing is wrong with the seats
Turn the key to run (dont start). Press the gas 3 times (just hit the gas pedal a bunch of times then stop). Light should flash then it is reset
I always make it a point to get to know my truck too, but I start by reading the owners manual, that way when the message center activates I'm ahead of the game usually.
Ryan may be right on the indicator reset, but you didn't mention if oil was changed at this service visit. If you only had truck for a month how many miles do you have on it? Some owners change oil in first 500 miles when new some follow manufacturers recommendations which go as high as 7500 miles between oil changes (5000 mi. is my figure) dependent on your driving conditions/use of vehicle. Check back with your dealer service dept. and ask why light has come on so soon and indicate your mileage, it could be a faulty circuit too!
Ray T.
P.S. My sincere condolences to the families of Sept. 11
I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 with 8.1L and Allison with 4.10's towing approx. 10,000lb 5er. We just bought the rig last month. Mileage has been less than expected with worst mileage at 6 mpg towing up to Gunnison, CO and best mileage of 7.1 mpg towing up outside of Golden, CO. The power is there, no doubt, but not sure of GM's claims of 10% better mileage over the 454, maybe they meant unloaded highway mileage??? Oh well, with the depreciation hit of trading now, coupled with the extra $4-5k for the diesel, it just doesn't make sense for us to trade just to get an extra couple of mpg's right now. Transfer flow makes a 45 gal tank for the extended cab short beds for $800, at least that would give me more range and help me forget about the horrible gas mileage.
Here is a link to my setup:
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1026888&uid=640222
Mike
However 45 gallons at $1.46 still takes the breath away when I think about it...$58.40 gas bill..
Now all I have to do is talk the wife into it!!
Bob
You might also check if the mounting bolts are tight, and if something else is rubbing on the shock body.
Mike L
Thanks for the info. I presume from your 'handle' that you have 4WD, and I notice you have 4.10 rear.
I'm contemplating 2WD and 3.73 rear which hopefully will give me a little better mileage.
How does your rig handle grades (both up and down)?
Hans
Yes my truck is 4x4 and it has the 4.10 gears.
The truck handles grades very well. I climbed Monarch Pass a 6% grade that is rather twisty at 45mph (which is the speed limit) in 3rd gear at about 3,200rpm floored. That is the only thing that has slowed me up yet (besides gas stations!!).
The 4.10's sure do give it some off the line grunt, but without having another truck with 3.73's I cannot tell you what the difference would be in acceleration between the two.
The truck is very powerful, but thirsty. I had started to look at diesels, but after looking at the $14,000 depreciation hit from MSRP (good thing I didn't pay MSRP), I cannot justify trading in a truck with absolutely no problems, outside of the cold knock, just to get an extra couple of mpg's. I argued with a Chevy sales person after he gave me the trade in price of my truck as he told me that Chevy's hold their value very well (and he was serious). The truck has been to the dealer once, and that was for a new belt under warranty.
Bob
Post 241 - Where is Monarch Pass?
I have a 4x4 8.1/allison 3.73 rearend extended cab long bed and am very happy with it. Haven't pulled anything to speak of, so don't have much to contribute to Black Silvers question. I really haven't had it heavily loaded (less than 8000 gross), but it certainly don't slowdown on any of the Montana, Idaho, or Washington passes with that weight. Gas mileage is 10 when using it locally, and 13 to 14 one the road - mostly 13.5. I love it. Big difference compared to the 8mpg I get in my F250 with a 351.
cowboyjohn
Monarch pass is on Highway 50, west of Salida, Colorado. The front side of the pass is very steep, but the back side (west side) is even steeper, the speed limit is only 35 which I was just able to do and is also very twisty, so you loose momentum slowing down for the sharp curves.
Very beautiful up there, though!!
Bob
-David
2000 ext cab Z71 5.3 3.73
-- Don
We have multiple issues and get blown off regularly by the Corporation and it's dealers on our 2001 crew cab.
You pay the money...you take your chances.
hehehehehe, That would be the new Monarch Pass road. One of these times we plan to make a trip up there just to go over the old dirt road Monarch pass, just to say we did it and see what it is like. Have heard it is passible with a full size, any experience???
Bob
A good dealer may be more important than the exact truck you buy.
Mike L
-- Don