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If you think is the same problem, could you tell me please how I get to the cam chain tensioner gasket? do I have to take off the air filter system?
I appreciate it
all the best,
ion
You might want to check the web for more specific links to help you.
Thanks
I asserted my car should have been covered under the extended oil-related warranty, which they said was specific to "sludge." Mine showed none because I did maintenance by the book, plus. Talk about Catch-22; their engine doesn't circulate oil, and I'm out $6k.
The belt showed no signs of wear or stress -- except for about 25 sheared off teeth, which clearly suggests the overhead cams sheared the teeth while the crank was turning. And, this happened at 70 mph with a family en route to a nearly-ruined vacation. Grrrr.
To add insult to injury, AUDI settled a class-action suit with Audi owners on the SAME engine for A4 owners! Same 1.8T engine!
Please hit my profile and email me if you've had a similar horror story, and whether you got any compensation/satisfaction. Thanks.
And, oh yes, I've already been through the ABS failure, ignition control module failure, only some susupension links covered run-around, etc.
Love the car -- hate the corporation. Drivers wanted? Corporate support wanted! On-topic emails will be answered. :mad:
That the sound goes away at higher RPM's is consistent with poor oil circulation into the overhead cam bearings, but it could be many other things too, including valve lifter issues.
The variation in noise at idle when the car is warmed up suggests a relationship with bearings as well, or something else exposed to high temperatures and differential expansion (different materials, different expansion rates).
Old trick: try using a broomstick -- carefully (look out for fans and belts) -- as a stethoscope. Good luck.
***Do perform the timing belt replacement ASAP.*** Don't buy VW's 105,000 miles interval (not sure if that has been updated). Use synthetic oil per current recs -- turbos cook oil. Use the new oversized VW oil filter (about 1 Qt). Most Jiffy-lube type places still list the original small one (about 1 pint).
Try to find out if your car has had any of these notorious Passat problems, and if so, whether fixed:
ABS control module
Ignition coils
Ignition control module
Front suspension links and tie rods get beat up and loose.
Last, you might do well to price after-market warranties. It all depends on your risk tolerence.
Thanks
Thanks,
Pete
The first Passat actually was bought back by VW of North America. VW of North America, to its credit, was cooperative and easy to deal with, reflecting the magnitude of issues with the Passat itself. I accepted a replacement Passat, which in hindsight was not a good idea since the replacement has it's own set of workmanship issues.
There's no question that a Passat offers a lot (handling, safety, interior and exterior design for those who like clean European designs). But spending dozens of hours taking the Passat into the shop and on the phone with VW is simply not worth it.
I just want to drive a decent car without having to think twice about what will break next. The logical consequence: My next VW will be a Toyota.
Frank
I am at 33,700 and as of right now I will look into another passat or Jetta for my next car purchase.
Interestingly, my brake light switch also has been replaced.
I believe the cause of this is improperly designed oil drainage from this area of the engine causing an oil sludge to form. If oil was not changed according to factory recommendations, they blame the sludge on not changing the oil.
Just curious, are you in the NY, NJ, Conn area? I had some real issues with Their distributor there. Treatment was better in Florida.
nleff@jfsa-cleveland.org
I found an intercooler on e bay, but I'm not having much luck finding the other parts I need. The dealer is a little to pricey.
Does anyone know where I can find parts for my passat at a decent price. Parts such as power steering, body panels, ect.
Thanks much.
This is getting really old, really fast. Is this an issue with Passats?
SHS
Thank you
Tim (Virginia)
You'll want to get this taken care of soon...oil in the coolant isn't good, but coolant in the oil is worse.
Thanks for all your help!!!
When you say the car won't crank, do you mean that the engine is turning with the starter motor but won't catch and run on its own? Or do you mean it actually won't crank when you turn the key?
Am I looking at expensive repairs here? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you very much
ryan f
fitchfam5@yahoo.com
------
Trend motors say that the Coil/Vacuum line needs to be changed and that is probably what's causing the blinking MIL and vibrations ($760).
They also found a oil leak ($460) and said that the timing belt and tensioner needs replacement ($1100). The engine also needs to be decarbed ($115).
I'm only getting the Coil/Vacuum problem fixed right now. Any suggestions on the above would be appreciated.
My 20001/2 passat (v6) GLS desperately needs to have its front brakes and rotos replaced. The dealer quoted around 750$. I got quotes from other shops ranging between 200-400$. What is a good estimate for the labour and parts. Also is there a specific brand that works best with passats?
Thnx
G
1.It's a bit too low for many roads outside europe and USA.
2.The interior is of inferior quality
3.The ABS unit goes bad after a little while
4.The actuator also goes bad
By the way, where is the best place (on the net) that I can get an ABS Control unit and an actuator. I need replacements for a 2001 Passat.
Now...do we have a lemon or is this just bad luck with a first year produced car. Anyone else have similar issues with the Passat? We are in a tough situation since we need a reliable car since we both work and these issues are really becoming a nuisance. Again, we love the comfort of the car and the handling, but the reliability has been horrendous compared to our 2004 Saab 9-3 which, knock on wood, has been great.
1 - I am taking the car in tomorrow evening. Dealership I am dealing with has been decent so far and they are trying to arrange a loaner for Wednesday / Thursday.
2 - They are aware of the strange issues with the radio fading and said that VW has some SW update that might resolve. The GM of the dealership is experiencing the same issue with his Passat.
3- AC will be taken care of and fixed.
4- They are still unsure about the engine response failures. The link above this message and under my first in regards to re setting the automatic transmission was done with some success, but the fact is that when cruising on the freeway at 70-75mph and the car at 2000rpms, and then needing to move over to pass someone, the car hangs completely and I have to drop it into Sport mode, 5th gear to get any engine response. Even then, the rpm only shoots up to 2500 rpm's, so the initial torqueness of the vehicle is lost.
I have been working directly with the dealer who sold us the car and the Shop manager. The sad thing is, none of these issues sound like they are surprising. Is there anything I should be doing other then documenting all the issues? My wife wants to drop the whole car lease and get something different. If anyone has any thoughts on the best way to approach this, I would like to hear.
That downshift issue is the scary one. Good luck.
1) insert key but do not start car
2) wait for all the information lights to cycle normaly, about 30 seconds.
3) Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor, hold it for about 5 seconds.
4) release gas pedal slowly.
5) Start the car (you must do this for the reset to take effect).
I personally don't notice the delay anymore. good luck.