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Comments
Part #26083324
Description-Shaft 6.524
Good Luck
The clunking noise in rear of the truck has been corrected for the "time being" by replacing the transmission fluid to a new type.
FP-Number 12378508 Decription Fluid 808
With all of this said, I can honestly say as of Nov. 18, 1999 my truck is running correctly for the first time since I have owned it (March). I wonder if I'm supposed to be satisfied, happy or just an idiot for putting up with it for so long
Jeff
I had a problem with my 2000 GMC ext cab 2wd with hopping at about 40 to 45 mph. Like a tire out of round. Sure enough the dealer said one was and replaced it. Its better but not perfect yet.
I also think there is something to this rack and pinion story. If you crawl underneath the truck and using a screwdriver, you will notice that the mounting bushings that hold the rack to the frame are very soft or loose fitting. They allow a lot of flexing in the unit. I have never compared it to other vehicle designs, not sure how much play they have. Later.
Of course what I was after when I put the shims in, was to "tighten" up the steering for more road feel. It certainly did that. But it made me wonder if it was mounted loose in the bushings intentionally to compensate for an inherent lack of damping.
A steering dampener, if one could be fitted, could be an excellent solution. That idea has been suggested here before, but one was not available. That may have changed by now.
A frame is stiff, but there is a small amount of designed in flex, to return road feel and feedback. Former F1 motorcycle champion Eddie Lawson recounted when Yamaha actually had the frame of his race bike too stiff, he lost some of the road transmitted feedback.
A harmonic vibration can originate one place, and show up somewhere else. It's the overall combination that makes the result. Sometimes by changing just one contributing factor, like a wheelbase dimension, or driveshaft length, these Silverados, Sierras/Tundras become different trucks, even within the same family.
Jeff
The truck has never been overloaded. The max payload I've hauled is about 500-600 pounds. I believe that the material used to make the springs is inferior and expect that better aftermarket springs would solve the problem permanently.
twice,new ujoints, new springs, new 1/4 glass and
frame, numerous interior repairs and finally got
the problems fixed.....I traded it on a new Impala
LS....not a single problem...yet
I have a 2000 GMC Sierra SLT Ext Cab 2wd w/5.3. I had very bad wind noise coming from my rear driver's quarter window. It sounded like the window was slightly open, even with the latch shut tight. It was loud.
I took the truck to the dealer and they mentioned that they had seen this all too often. They mentioned that they would order me a window and would call me when it arrived. A month later, still no part. I then went to the dealer to speak with the service manager. According to them, the new quarter window was on backorder. Some windows for other customers had been on back order for months. That didn't sound right to me. I spent my hard earned money on a fancy rig and they can't get a part, even after a month? Something was up.
I called GMC customer service the next day and explained the problem. I even pointed out the TSB for the 1999 models for this same problem. GMC then called the dealer to speak to the svc mgr and called me back. The dealer opened a "SPAC" case or something like that. It means that a part is needed urgently. The GMC cust svc rep called a service parts facility the next day to arrange priority parts shipment to my dealer for my new window. A week later, my part arrives, and is installed. No wind noise now. I can drive without shouting to my wife.
What I learned from all this (from the GMC Cust Svc guy) is that a union strike at one of the truck plants producing the new trucks stopped the line for a long time. Now the strike is over. Orders for 1999 2500 series trucks are being produced now. Anyone who ordered a 99 2500 series truck during the strike or shutdown will get a 2000 2500 body style truck for the same price. I believe there are multiple plants churning out the new body style truck presently. All use the same quarter window design coming from only one supplier. All newly redesigned quarter windows are going straight to the line with little or no allocation for service parts. At least this is the story I was told. For what it's worth.
My next problem: a severe water leak in the cab. I saw a drop of water one day in the 3rd door area on the carpet. I popped the trim, lifted up the carpet and the matting under the carpet was soaked under the entire passenger side of the "hump" including under the passenger front seat. I mean it was dripping wet and had soured.
I reported this to the dealer. They said they fixed it but didn't even look at it I found out. Having to leave on a camping trip the next night, I was determined to find the problem that night. I pulled all the trim out, took out the rear seat, removed the seat belt bolts and had my wife spray water on the exterior of the cab. The leak was in the corner of the cab at the 3rd door. I have no idea how water could come in at that joint but there it was. Some silicon took care of the leak. I found out later, there is a TSB on this.
I also found out after the fact that my right front fender had been repainted before I took delivery. They did a good job, but the coloration is slightly noticable during mid day. It is not worth having them repaint it. The dealer claimed no knowledge of this. My truck is Pewter. Anyone else had this happen?
Now, am I happy? Yes and no. I believe that GM has some quality and design issues. Good luck everyone.
I took my 2000 Sierra xtcab to an independent mechanic a few days ago for a second opinion on my 45 and 60-70mph vibrations. He proceeded to test drive the truck and then put the truck on the rack. He physically showed me how loose the drive shaft is at the carrier bearing and he stated that a loose drive shaft at this point would cause vibrations. He seemed to think that this is or may be a cause of the vibration. It is worth a shot as it requires less than one hour labor and the price of the carrier bearing/assembly. I will request that he put it in writing so that I can have some leverage when dealing with the GM AVM. He also stated that it is well known that the Goodyear Wrangler ST's are very difficult to get and keep balanced through the life of the tire. I plan on negotiating a cost difference for a better grade tire like Michelin. I'll let you know how things turn out....probably after the New Year.
Jeff
miles it was back worse than ever. When I came to a stop and went to take off the truck didn't move until all of a sudden I would get a big bang in the rear end and it would take off. Next time I took it in the dealer greased the rear end and the big bang stopped but now I have cluncks (at very low speed) when I slow down or start to take off again. The noise sould like bad U joints like some others have stated. I may be wrong but this does not sound like spring noise as some have said? I have also had the windhield problem repaired. Just recently had the engine ping start.
Quad have you had the rear end clunking noise? I not any ideas? This problem is very annoying.
I had the steering wheel clunk as well and the new steering shaft did fix that problem, but other than these annoyances I do like the truck.
If you crawl under the truck on your back, you can grip the driveshaft with your hands, and rotate it back and forth to feel how much free play exists, and get a feel for where the majority of it is located. If it's in the U-joints, you will know. Probably isn't.
Johnny,
Yours sounds like it could be too much play between the pinion and ring gear. Not really an issue of reliability. There may be shims they can add to get rid of some of the play. The shim adjusts the lateral position of the ring gear, putting it in tighter contact with the pinion. An extreme pressure EP grease may also help on the driveshaft splines where it goes into the transfer case, or transmission end housing.
shudder or vibration, put it in neutral or park and race the engine at between 1400 and 1600 rpm and you will find the same shudder but slight because the vehicle is not under a load, 25 years of twisting a wrench and I still can't believe that gm has not figured out how to balance a v-6 engine , all others vibrations posted here are valid but the dealer doesn't want you to know that the engine has a balance problem, it is a common problem with all gm v-6 engines, they will try to change your driveshaft angle with spring ajustments and varius other things, have tried to
have 4300 engine balanced for this , and it just is impossible, other then this it's a great performing engine, don't mistake this for the other problem of overdrive early shift causing a
lugging vibration.
have read through all the comments and discussion
and am having a hard time determing if the
vibration and other driveline problems are just
1500's or do they also affect the 2500. If I find
the problems are not with the 2500 I will continue
to find my dream truck.
the rear end noise i believe that i have is the same that ya'll are talking about..if you stop at a stop light and go, it kind of clunks and you can actually feel it. and also when you stop kind of fast to a complete stop it'll clunk.
I have taken it to the dealership, too many times and really am tired of it
the first time they told me it was some sorta rubber bushing on the springs making the noise when you started moving because right away when you move the springs do a small twist or move some..then the next thing they told me was the tires were rubbing on something...the last thing that theyve told me is that the splines or something have slack and that they all do this
each time they lube up the truck and it works GREAT for like three or four days then the lube wears off and here it is again
not really a big thing but extremely annoying and embarrassing when your at a stop sign and take off and CLUNK..you can hear it.
Ive had some other things that theyve fixed like the steering column had a small vibration in it..they ordered some kind of bushing and siliconed or some kind of sealant and now its fine
I have some small rattles that need to be gone, because they are just plain annoying.
This truck is a running machine, even the service department comments on how well it runs
Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that one out. Anyway, after 3 months of jumping up and down on the dealer and gm, and after getting a lawyer involved, I finally got a buyback. Total load of crap to have to go through just because gm can't be honest and admit they have a problem. Specs. on my vehicle are: 2500 series 2000 silverado 3 door extended cab, 2 WD, short bed. Equipped with the LT package, vortec 6000 v8, HD autotrans w/OD, HD suspension, trailer towing package, 410 locking rear.
Chances are pretty good that by time you receive your truck, if you order it, they will have the bugs worked out, HOPEFULLY. You will be getting the 4 door model, 3 door not built anymore. I just checked yesterday and the 3 dealers in my area still haven't got allocations for 3/4 ton trucks. Cross your fingers.
They go over the springs with the pads on them now (2nd of third form the bottom) and are quite a bit thicker. If you need the number let me know and I'll dig it up off the repair record. Between that and the new special transfer case fluid it has eliminated almost all my problems.
Ray T.
Ray T.
shudder in the GM New trucks.
So check with your dealers... You paid a ton for
sub-par vehicles.
I saw one posting but he did not respond back.
I'm thinking of buying a 2000 Sierra 2500 4x4 extended cab shortbed.
Any info is appreciated!!!
Mark
From what I've been reading lately, I'm having a
hard time trying to figure out if GM finally got
their vibration problems fixed for the 2000 Sierra
model. It seems that most of the vibration problems
have been on the 1999s. Anyone know if the 2000
1500 Sierras have the same number of vibration
problems??? Is it just the 1500 or does the 2500
also have it??? Thought I read a fix date of March
somewhere??? Any info would help. Thanks.
(no I did not make up that part number) to the sliding spline portion of the driveshaft. No other grease works. It costs $30 for a pint can but you can beg a little from the mechanic at your local dealership. It is a pale yellow. There is a bulletin about it, 92-265-7A, formerly 91-242-7A. I also recommend, while you have the driveshaft out, slightly rounding the corners of the spline teeth.
Pulling to one side can be caused by front brake
hoses that are delaminating inside. If there is no visible or obvious problems with bad wheel
bearings, scored rotors, seized up caliper slides,
then replace both right and left hoses (cheap to
do) before doing any other (usually expensive)
work.
Albert Einstein